Sunday, January 31, 2010

Toda Tribe, Ooty

Climbing up a hill past some immensely tall trees with flowing, extending roots, we reached a house with colorful laundry hanging outside. An Indian woman and her daughter were there, so I asked her where we might find the Todas, a tribal group located in the region. She explained that she was a Toda and directed us to the gate where we could see more people of her tribe. Rather quickly, we were met by a Toda man, dressed in a dhoti and plaid shirt. Nearby, other men were dressed similarly – certainly not the traditional Toda costumes of thick white woven shawls striped with red and black as pictured in the guidebook. Similarly, the homes were also of a more modern type, built of concrete, painted in bright colors, and containing satellite dishes on top. We obviously were not going to get an authentic experience here.

Thankfully, there was at least a traditional 100-yr old barrel-shaped temple made out of bamboo, grass and cane available for us to see. The only opening was a very small door (no visitors allowed). Symbols on the front included the sun, moon, and a buffalo. A short distance away was a fenced in area, containing a very cute baby Toda buffalo with long ears and light brown shaggy fur. The buffalo are revered in Toda culture and are also used for their milk, which is consumed in vast quantities. Next to the pen was another barrel shaped hut and a square one made out of mud. Walking towards the man’s home, he pointed out his father going up the hill, wearing the traditional shawl. In the man’s nicely furnished bright pink home, he showed us some of the shawls, scarves, and vest all in the creamy white wool with red and black embroidered motifs. Spotting a photo of his wife (with the characteristic hair ringlets) and child, I was glad to hear that their child was being exposed to Toda traditional culture, despite the outward embracement of modern life.

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