Christmas Eve in Prague

Prague
Already dark, our first destination was the Old Town Square. Red light emanated from the tall Christmas tree dominating the Eastern side. In front of the tree was a life-size Nativity scene carved from wood. Once a site for public executions of 27 Protestants in 1621 after losing the Battle of the White Mountain, the historical square was now filled with a sense of festivity. Vendors in the red-roofed stands sold crafts, local hot dogs/sausages, grilled meats, roasted chestnuts, and hot drinks.

Right around the corner was the Old Town Tower, whose unusual clock is the most famous in Prague. Within the series of circles, one will find a calendar, astronomical clock, and representation of daylight hours. On each side of the astronomical and calendar clocks are two wooden figures, each representing something (such as Greed or Vanity). On the hour, Death (a rather cute looking skeleton) pulls a rope and the angel appears to pull it at the other end. Near the top, two window open up and the 11 Apostles + St. Paul slowly move around. At the end of the show, sound coming from a window above the Apostles reveals a cock. You could always tell when the hour was about to happen, as large amounts of people began amassing in front of the 15th century clock.

We then headed towards Prague Castle, crossing the famous Charles Bridge. Built in 1357, the bridge was the only crossing over the Vltava River from the Old Town to the Little Quarter until the 1700’s. Now crowded with pedestrians, it used to carry 4 carriages side-by-side. Lining the entire span of the bridge are a multitude of sculptures of saints, added at various times about 400 years after the bridge’s completion. Quite a number of the sculptures (actually copies, as the originals are in the National Museum) were very dark, making it difficult to photograph with natural light. A few brave souls set up tripods to take photos of the bridge and the Prague Castle region, illuminated at night.

After a brief walk around the Little Quarter Square, my fingers were so cold that I was feeling very clumsy using the camera – was I pressing the shutter release or not? Noticing that the St. Nicholas Church was still closed due to filming, we decided to find a restaurant to eat – and to warm up. We chose a cozy, well-establish restaurant, where I ordered a meal of pork au gratin with bacon and mushroom sauce. For desert, we split a dish of sweet dumplings with yogurt sauce and drizzled chocolate. Good, but not something I would need to try again. Beer lovers would be happy in Prague, as a glass was about half the price of coke or tea.

Temporarily warmed up, we headed back to the Old Town Square. Crowds were noticeably thinner. At the stage next to the tall Christmas tree, a group was performing Renaissance-style Christmas music. I was quick to point out to Olja when they played the rauspheife instrument, as that is the Renaissance instrument that I also play. Although we enjoyed the concert, I pitied the performers whose fingers were likely very cold. Once finished, we took the efficient metro back to the hotel.

Christmas Traditions in Prague
With its Protestant/Catholic roots, Christmas is still an important celebration for Prague residents. On Christmas Eve and Day, everything is closed for this national holiday. Even during Socialism, no one worked. On these days, it is customary to visit the cemetery. Taking your dog out for a walk was the main thing you saw residents do. I couldn't get over how many small/toy dogs residents had!

The house would be thoroughly cleaned in preparation for the festivities. Fried carp, a delicacy, was prepared along with soup and special cakes. According to our local guide, Christmas now is less focused on remembering Christ’s birth and more about commercialism and eating. Even the pets get presents!

Tweet

Prague Castle, Hradcany

Tour of Prague
With the exception of those walking dogs, most others seemed to be in tour groups, struggling to hear their guide or follow the umbrella/silly pole held up by the leader. Our guide pointed out that much of the city was flooded 5 years ago. Most of the administrative buildings were built just after the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Prague Castle
Our tour started up by the Castle. This was quite fitting, since origins of Prague started on this hill in the 9th century. The original walls (part of which remained) enclosed a palace, three churches, and a monastery. The castle has been rebuilt many times, with its Renaissance style achieved in 1541. At the castle entrance, two guards stood in uniform. Shortly thereafter, a small parade of guards marched out and performed the hourly Changing of the Guard. In the first courtyard were some large wooden flagpoles, gently tapered to a point higher than the Late Baroque buildings. Walking through the second larger courtyard, our first destination was the St. Vitus Cathedral.

St. Vitus Cathedral
Within the castle walls is St. Vitas Cathedral, a Gothic structure towering over the city as one of its most distinctive landmarks. Construction began in 1344, but the finishing touches were made almost 600 years later – in 1929. Although the main part of the church actually was fairly wide, the soaring height of the walls gave it the illusion of being narrow. Facing to the front, three stained-glass windows curved gently at the top to echo the intricate webbed Gothic tracery on the ceiling. On the opposite end is a Rose Window designed from 1925-7, depicting the Creation. Due to the large numbers of people and trying to stay with our tour group, it was difficult to dwell at any place for very long.
To the left of the main entrance were some beautiful stained glass windows, including some by Czech Secessionist painter, Alfons Mucha. Lining the periphery of the church were small chapels containing relics, centuries of paintings, and statues. Some of the tombs were extremely elaborate, including the tomb of St. John Nepomuk, which was made of solid silver. Located on the site of the former St. Wenceslas Rotunda, the St. Wenceslas Chapel walls are filled with Gothic frescoes of scenes from the Bible and life of Wenceslas. In once corner was a tall, elaborate golden structure that held Communal wafers and wine. An altar is decorated with semi-precious stones. Another chapel held a Nativity scene, something found in every church.

The outside of the cathedral is a feast for the eye as well. Gargoyles of both human and beast forms are scattered throughout, each one unique. The main tower near the original entrance was finished with a Baroque green-colored bell tower. Although the West half was completed in the 20th century, it incorporates Neo-Gothic elements and designs, making it blend in with the rest of the cathedral. Delicate flying buttresses surround the exterior of the nave and chancel (East end). The Golden Portal, originally the entrance, has a 14th century mosaic of the Last Judgment above the three doors.

Other Parts of Prague Castle and Hradčany
Moving onward, we went past St. George’s Basilica, the best-preserved Romanesque church in Prague. Its bright red façade – a Baroque addition – was attractive to me, but I didn’t know at the time it was a church. Closeby is the picturesque Golden Lane, a short narrow 17th century street. A recent change, admission is now charged to walk through. Once out of the Castle area, we stopped to take a look at the view below of the Little Quarter and distant Old Town. Unfortunately, fog/haze prevented us from seeing much.

The area right outside the Castle is known as Hradčany, a town founded in about 1320. One of its notable buildings is the Strahov Monastery. Rebuilt after a fire in 1258, its famous attraction is its 800-yr old library. Although there were books in several rooms, the most impressive one was Philosophical Hall, which had books neatly shelved in warm wooden bookcases up to the ceiling along each wall, and a baroque spacious ceiling fresco. Sadly visitors are no longer able enter this hall – just view it from behind the plexiglass-blocked entrance. Strahov, once again a functioning monastery after the fall of the Socialist regime, also has a brewery.

The Loreto has been a place of pilgrimage ever since it was opened in 1626. The decorative white Baroque façade and its large bell tower must look stunning against a blue sky – which never happened while we were there. After paying the entrance fee,
we walked past a few chapels some of which were closed to view and others gated. In the courtyard was the Santa Casa, a copy of the house believed to be the Virgin Mary’s. Its outer surface is filled with reliefs of the life of Mary and some Biblical prophets. While outside, the 30 small bells (dating back to 1694) tolled – a sweet sound. Inside of the Church of the Nativity, the supposedly gruesome fully-clothed skeletons with death masks were less than impressive. Finally at the treasure room, we had the chance to see the valuable liturgical items of the Loreto. Many of the items were so encrusted with semi-precious gems or fancy shapes that I found them rather hideous looking. Not being Catholics, it took us a bit to figure out what a “monstrance” is – for displaying the host. The only one I liked was a gold-plated, diamond-encrusted monstrance that had rays radiating from the place where the wafer would be displayed. A bit of a disappointment (particularly after visiting St. Agnes Convent’s excellent collection), we moved onward. Too bad we didn’t visit the Sternberg Palace instead, with its collection including an El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt, and other Old World Masters.

While walking down towards the Little Quarter, we passed by the Schwartzenberg Palace. Built in 1576, the sgrafitto patterned surface caught my attention. The interior sounds equally decorative.

Tweet

Levoča

History
On our final day of traveling, we chose to go to the picturesque town of Levoča. Situated in the north-western part of Eastern Slovakia about 42 km from our starting point of Tatranská Lomnica. With the frequent bus stops, the trip took about 1 ¼ hours. It was notably warmer here, prompting us to stuff our hats and gloves away. Levoča is a very historical town, originating in the 13th century and built up by German colonialists and dislocated Slavic peasants. However, it was during the 14th and 15th centuries that the town really became prosperous due to its strategic position as Central European trading center on an important trade route of the Hungarian Kingdom. Buildings constructed by the burghers of the royal free town are well-preserved and contribute to the beauty of this old town. A tragic fire in 1550 destroyed most of the original Gothic structures, but the wealthy city rebuilt itself in the Renaissance style now seen. During the 16-18th centuries, the town declined due to aristocratic uprisings (and fighting for trade center rights with Kežmarok) and Turkish expansion.

Renaissance town
Upon entering the old city, the first building we saw was the Town Hall, dating back to the 15th century. The bright white façade glistened against the then-blue skies. Between the windows in the upper floor were rather faint paintings of women, representing symbols of civil virtues: moderation, carefulness, bravery, patience and justice. On the lower level were a series of archways, added in 1615. Next to the Town Hall was a bell-tower (built between 1656-1661) and the Cage of Shame, a 16th century metal cage used to punish minor delinquencies.

Church of St. Jacob
After walking around the town and enjoying the well-preserved Renaissance buildings, we headed over to the Church of St. Jacob, built in the Gothic style at the end of the 14th century. The sign on the iron gate indicated the times of the tours, so we went to a small but pleasant place for a sandwich (too many fatty meals of the Slovakian specialty had been eaten this week). Back at the church at 1pm, it still was locked, so we walked over to the town information center to find out how to get a tour. I wanted to see the famous carved altar by Master Paul of Levoča and wasn’t going to leave until I did! After purchasing the ticket at a building across from the church, we waited for the 2pm slot. The lady opened up the locked gate and let us in, locking the gate after us. Thankfully, she turned on the lights in the church, making it possible to see the beautiful treasures contained inside. After listening to the coin-operated audio commentary, we walked around.

Master Paul’s beautiful main altar made out of limewood was a sight to see. Although it rose 18.62 meters in height, it seemed light and airy, reaching towards the heavens but in an unobtrusive manner. Light from the tall, narrow gothic windows filled the negative spaces in the upper part of the altar. Gold was the dominant color, but colors were used sparingly, particularly in the backgrounds of the outer triptych relief carvings. I wanted to get closer, but the section was roped off at quite a distance. Below the main section was a carving of the Last Supper. To me, it looked like there was a head on the table. Later at a souvenir shop, I asked the shopkeeper about the carving. Puzzled as was her co-worker, she phoned and replied that it was John sleeping. An interesting rendition!
There were many other smaller altars, each dedicated to a saint or part of Jesus’ life. Each altar had a cloth embroidered with purple designs. On the walls were more carvings and some paintings. Olja especially liked the angels and would have loved to have added a few to her collection. The lady was getting impatient, but we were determined to stay until we had seen what we had wanted. We were glad we had waited and finally saw the insides of this marvelous church. Here is a website that gives you a little taste of the church: http://www.chramsvjakuba.sk/en.html

Back to Belgrade
On Saturday morning we packed up our belongings, and waited for the bus to leave at 11:30 am. It was another long bus ride back to Belgrade, with a few stops including the customary wait at the Slovak/Hungarian border. Finally at 2:30 am the taxi dropped me off at my apartment. It had been a fulfilling, but relaxing week.

Tweet

Kežmarok

On Tuesday we took a local (old) bus to Kežmarok. Our first destination was the wooden articulated church. Built (1687 and 1717) during the time of Protestants’ religious oppression, this was the first time they were allowed to build their own churches. Because the parish carried the entire costs of the construction, wood was used as the sole construction material – even the nails were wooden. The curved ceiling was painted sky blue with fluffy clouds. Especially impressive were the wooden organ pipes. Next to the wooden church was the New Evangelical Church, built in 1894. Outside, it was a coral shade of pink; inside, it was more open and had an airy feeling. Architectural styles were rather eclectic, including some Islamic Turkish influence in designs. In a side room was a tomb of Imrich Thököly, the leader of an uprising and revered by Hungarians who now place national wreaths over the tomb.

After visiting the two churches, we wandered through the quiet town. Mothers pushed their bundled-up babies in fancy strollers. Old ladies strolled at a leisurely pace. The two-storey Renaissance buildings here were again well-preserved, painted in bright, unique colors. Many had wooden roofs. Old Market street, the oldest street in Kežmarok, had houses dating back to the 13th century and were typical regional craftsmen’s homes. One of the homes was now a museum, containing beautiful period furniture and other items of the time. My favorite were the pieces with inlaid wood. Also of interest was the town hall, rebuilt between 1541-1555 in the Renaissance style and later in 1779 after a fire. Its clock tower and spire reminded me of those on Serbian churches.

At the end of the main street was the Kežmarok castle, built in 1462 as a gothic urban fortress. It was built directly inside the town to protect it against its potential enemies. Today it is a museum – which unfortunately was closed (or at least apparently so) when we checked it twice.

Strážky Castle
Back at the bus station, we waited for the local bus to the Strážky castle, one of the most important cultural monuments of the Spiš region. A walk through an Aldi-like grocery store broke up some of that time, but the wait still was long. Finally we were on the bus and reached our destination. The tour began on the hour, so we had a bit of time to kill before entering the castle converted into a Renaissance mansion in the 16th century. Meanwhile, I walked across the street and took some pictures of the late-Gothic church of St. Anna and the attractive Gothic-Renaissance belfry. I then took a quick stroll through the English park-like grounds. Our “guide” gave Olja an English copy of some information on the collection, and turned on the lights in the room ahead of us, waited, and then turned off the lights. The mansion was filled with portraits of aristocracy, most in oil but some in pastel. Although some were disproportional (or had other “mistakes) and others the subject was downright homely, I was fascinated by the detail to the clothing and jewelry. Since 1962 the family of count Eduard Mednyanszky lived here. A large portion of the paintings in the building were done by their talented son Ladislav – the definite highlight of the tour. Olja asked the “guide” a few questions about Ladislav and other basic questions, but received no answers – not a word. Perhaps she was just a fill-in. After a long wait for the bus back to Kežmarok, we made a visit to a second grocery store to kill time before the next bus, and arrived back in Lomnica and walked back to the hotel in the dark.

Tweet