Sandboarding down the La Paz Sand Dunes

On my tour of Laoag, my guest house friends took us to the La Paz Sand Dunes. This stretch of coastal sand dunes is an easy 15 minute drive outside of Laoag and spans for about 85 square km (52 miles) along the South China Sea. It is a popular site for films, both Philippine movies and Hollywood. Mad Max and Born on the Fourth of July both shot scenes in this coastal desert. 

Sand dunes can reach up to 90 meters (295 ft) in height, but are constantly changing due to variations in wind, currents, weather, sedimentation, and types of vegetation. 

In one area, adults and kids were sliding down the dunes on boards. It hearkened me back to my snow tobogganing and sled riding days on the glacially formed hills on the family farm in Wisconsin.

Jeeps and 4x4 vehicles could also be seen driving over the dunes.

Tweet

Ha Long Bay Photos

Flickr photos of my trip to Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Tweet

Taejongdae Park

Following lunch at the Gamcheon Taeukdo village, our bus crawled in thick traffic to Taejongdae Park. Arriving much later than expected, we only had a short time to enjoy the beautiful park. My Vietnamese friend and I stayed longer, enabling us to take in more of the natural sights. Shaded by the canopy of trees, we walked along the paved walkway. A wheeled vehicle looking like a train transported paying customers to specified destinations. Most people chose to walk though, taking with them children crabby with no naps, pets, and older relatives. Once again, most dogs were small and wore outfits, and some even had their ears or tail dyed in fluorescent pink or orange colors. Other small dogs were carried in special backpacks worn on the chests of their doting owners.   Rest stops, cafés, and shops were conveniently located throughout the park. 

Well-maintained stairways with railings led people down to experience great views and down cliffs to the famous rock beach. Here, people enjoyed climbing on the rocks and resting, observing the light house, large ships, and other scenery. On this breezy, slightly hazy day, we were not able to see the Tsushima Island of Japan. Back at the entrance, we joined many others who waited in lines to board public buses transporting people back to central areas of Busan. 

Following a few firecrackers along the beach near where we were staying in a rather lackluster motel, our time in Busan was swiftly drawing to a close. Until next time.

Tweet

Jagalchi Fish Market

Markets are one of my favorite types of places to visit. Everything seems to be a bit more intense in local markets, from the sellers and their wares, to the shoppers. Markets can be an assault on the senses. Being a port city, Busan is known for its seafood. As such, we visited the Jagalchi Fish market, Korea’s seafood market. Much of the market is indoor, but we chose to spend more time walking through the stalls outside. In both, the variety of fish and seafood was quite amazing. Tanks contained live fish and colorful plastic bowls were piled high with mounds of various colored fish and shells. Dried fish in interesting shapes were arranged with care. Fresh seaweed was neatly cut and stacked. Older women, known as “Jagalchi Ajumma” were clearly masters of this domain, donning short curly black hair, long rubber gloves, and brightly colored waterproof aprons and high rubber boots. 

Gaebul spoon worm

Prepared Gaebul, eaten raw

Visitors had their choice of small booth-like restaurants. Nothing fancy, but definitely places to eat fresh catch. Choose your desired seafood by pointing to the tank or bowl, and soon it will be on your plate. We actually ate at the market twice, once having fish & eel cooked on a hotplate right on our table, and the other time eating a most strange spoon worm gaebul, known as the penis fish. Those tubular non-descript creatures that looked more like bratwurst to me were quickly deflated, their insides scraped out. The outer portions were cut up, sprinkled with sesame seeds, and placed on our table, along with some various sauces. Not quite sure how to prepare or eat them, we patiently waited for the lady to return. Meanwhile, she worked on an order for another table, decisively stabbing one end of a still wiggling eel and deftly filleting it. Guts and other unwanted parts of the seafood were scraped together, then the next items prepared. Perhaps a bit puzzled why we were not eating our food, another lady came to our table and gestured that we were to dip the raw fish into the sauce - no cooking! Can’t say that I enjoyed the taste or rubbery texture, but my Vietnamese friend and I did eat it, albeit giggling while we did. Not satiated, we left and ate a bit more familiar food shortly thereafter. 

Tweet

Beaches of Busan

Flying kites at Haeundae Beach

One of Busan’s attractions is its beaches. Parts of the beaches are rocky, while others had rather large, clean swaths of sand. Much like the parks and mountains of Seoul, the beach areas were designed to encourage exercise. Well-maintained boardwalks, biking lanes, and areas with outdoor exercise equipment abounded. People of all ages took advantage of the facilities, jogging, walking their small clothed pooches, stretching, etc. With the waters still rather cold, no one was out swimming yet. Families enjoyed sitting on the sand, sharing picnic lunches or flying kites of varying sizes. Sun tanning wasn’t a common scene, particularly with the sun-conscious Koreans who favor light skin. On one beach, young people enjoyed a game of beach volleyball. A few tents were set up near the shore. Facilities with bathrooms, snacks, and coffee abounded. Palm trees lined the edge of the beach near the road. On the other side of the road, more coffee shops, restaurants & bars, shopping malls, and high rise buildings abounded. It was interesting seeing the photos of the Haeundae beach between the 50’s and 1970’s, totally absent of tall buildings and modern development. At night, the beach scene with its nearby pubs and bars became noisier. Colorful lights sparkled on the water, reflected from the bridges, cityscape, and firecrackers. 

Haeundae Beach

Biking path along Gwanganli Beach 

Boardwalk along Gwanganli Beach

Tweet

Yonggungsa Temple

Our first stop of the morning was to Yonggungsa Temple. A common pattern during our driving to the different destinations this holiday weekend, the roads were quite congested - particularly so when we got closer to the temple. Unlike most Buddhist temples in Korea which are situated in the protective isolation of the mountains, Yonggungsa is located right above a rocky shore. Founded in 1376, the main temple was carefully restored in 1970, using the same colors as the structures burned down by the Japanese. Typical of Korean temples and other historical buildings of importance, the site was chosen with great care, ensuring that nature and man-made creations harmonized with each other. 

Much like the road leading up to the area, the entire site of Younggungsa was heavily congested. The pathway leading up to the temple site was lined with vendors selling snacks and souvenirs. People stopped to buy treats as well as to take photos of themselves or friends with their cell phones or big SLRs.  I would have loved to have stayed longer, taking the time to appreciate the many structures and scenes from varied vantage points, but this was not possible during the short time allotted for our visit. I read that the temple on the sea shore was particularly beautiful at sunrise, as well as when the cherry blossoms are in their glory. Another time…

Next to the main temple was a large golden laughing Buddha statue with a rotund belly. People were having fun trying to flick coins, believing it good luck if the coin landed on top of the belly. Scaffolding for the rainbow of lanterns obscured the lower portion view of the happy sculpture as well as the lower part of the main hall. Following the canopy of lanterns down the stairs, I headed towards the beautiful stone bridge and walked across its expanse carried along by a sea of people. Up more stairs, I managed to get a beautiful view of the temple perched above its rocky shore line. The turquoise of the water contrasted with the neutral rocks, and furthermore with the rainbow canopy of lanterns. A few lines of single colored lanterns led further up to some stone stupas and higher yet to a large white statue. A truly beautiful scene that begs further exploration.

Tweet

A Dip in the Holy Water

After making my way through the crowds, I arrived at the beach of Velankanni. Although early in the morning, it already was rather crowded. With the mass of people now in the small town, whose lodgings are unable to accommodate all (or those who choose to sleep outside), the sea was the perfect place for a dip - or a bath. Since this is more conservative South India, women walked in the water with their saris or salwars. Out of respect for the bathers, I did not take such close-up shots. 

I did find this scene rather fascinating though. Everyone in the area was wearing orange - the color of penitent pilgrims. The way they interacted with the water made me wonder if some holy or healing status was being applied to the sea by Velankanni. Much like that of the Hindu's holy Ganges River. 

Tweet

Vijay Vilas Palace, Mandvi

Next, we visited the Vijay Villas–the summer palace built for its courtly ruler in 1929. Its architecture, particularly the curved bangaldar eaves above the windows in the upper floor, was reminiscent of that in Rajasthan. From its rooftop, we had a sweeping view of the Arabian Sea.

Tweet

Mandvi Shipbuilding

After a quick stop at a Jain temple, we headed south about 60 km (37 mi) to the seaport town of Mandvi. For hundreds of years, this principle port of Gujarat witnessed the departure of its famous merchant navigators to all ports of India as well as to far-flung places such as South Africa, Arabia, Malaysia, China, and Japan - bringing back great wealth. Even now, one can find massive ships being built by hand in much the same way as they did hundreds of years ago. With nary a construction safety barrier in sight, we were able to go right up to the mass of wooden ships and even up the crude ladder into its hull. Inside, we had the undivided attention of each of the young workers; they didn’t seem to be working that hard anyway.

 On the outside of the unfinished ship, one man sat on a suspended plank, patiently wedging in strips of thick cotton cord in the spaces between the wide boards of the ship’s exterior. Supposedly this was done to help waterproof the ship. In the shipyard, several men worked in the heat at a simple lumber mill, transforming a massive log from Myanmar into lumber.

Tweet

Back from the Catch

Although early in the morning, these fishing boats are already pulled up to shore, done with the catch. Even though a similar color scheme is used, each boat has a different design, accompanied by (usually) Tamil writing. All lined up with kids dangling on the ends of some, this scene looks quite tranquil. I can imagine what it must of looked like six years ago, when the tsunami ravaged fishing villages such as this.

Tweet

Pondicherry - Christmas Day

Hungry after our visit to Auroville, we had the driver drop us off at La Terrace restaurant in Pondicherry. Knowing that most of the meals we would have on the trip would likely be Indian, I chose to order a pizza. Refreshed once again, we walked along Pondicherry’s seafront. Closer to the road, a promenade was available. Or, one could walk on the sand. Waves crashed up onto the large black rectangular rocks, occasionally sending fine saltwater sprays up by us. Ice cream vendors with their pink bicycle-style carts dotted the sand, as did fruit sellers, those selling cotton candy, legumes, and even pinwheels. Health-conscious eaters could even buy peeled cucumbers from a sari-clad woman. People were strolling along, some holding hands. One young couple sat quite intimately and close to each other near the top of the rock embankment – a scene not very common in South India. Women in saris & jasmine in their hair seemed mesmerized by the waves. Kids eagerly licked their ice cream bars, only to find it dripping down on the sand moments later. About halfway down was the black Gandhi memorial statue. Kids climbed up the marble ramp to reach the statue, climbing over its feet, posing by the statue, and then sliding down the ramp.

From there, we headed into the French Quarter and proceeded towards the Ashram. Seeing the long lines, we decided to skip that visit. We walked to the gate of the paper factory, but found that it was closed as it was Christmas. Nearby vendors were selling clay figures, ghee lamps, and small clay bowls in carts. Racks of clothing made for export but perhaps with slight imperfections were being sold at cheap prices. Trying on the clothing wasn’t possible, but the seller with a tape measure could give you a fairly good idea if it would fit. Back on the main streets of the Indian section, we saw men ironing clothes, others making fried foods, selling bananas, and people generally going about their daily chores. Right across the street from the Immaculate Conception church, women set up brightly painted nativity scene figures for sale.

That evening, we once again went out for a walk. Lights illuminated the several churches in the town. Large colorful stars cast tinted light on carved household doors revealing Christian symbols. Others were placed in front of businesses, hotels, etc. Several of the churches were going to hold midnight Mass (albeit in Tamil), but already there were many people inside, quietly meditating or going up to the statues of flower-adorned Mary or Jesus. Huge sprays of flowers adorned the altar area. Outside one church, the figure of baby Jesus was now in its cradle, signifying that Christ was now born. Walking past a smaller church, we noticed that there were events going on in its front area. We were invited to come in and watch the festivities. First, some young men tried their hand at “hit the pot,” in which the blindfolded, spun-around individual attempted to use the stick to locate and break the clay pot hung from a high string. Only a short amount of time was given and only one strike allowed. One man did succeed at hitting the pot and was rewarded by getting wet from the water-filled pot. Giggling and laughs filled the air. After that two rounds of “musical chairs” were played, first by women aged 35 and up and then by the men. After some women were finally cajoled to come over and participate, it was quite amusing to see how some acted like shy schoolgirls as they attempted to scramble for a chair while in their saris and then giggle when eliminated. After a tasty treat at a small chocolate shop, we headed back to the hotel and enjoyed a movie and chatted.

See more photos of Pondicherry on my Flickr page

Tweet

Mahabalipuram - the Journey Begins

In the days since my two friends arrived, they had been kept busy seeing some of Chennai’s religious and natural sites, dodging bicycle rickshaws and cows on colorful Mint Street, attending a Bharathanatyam classical dance performance, and of course – shopping. Early morning on Christmas Eve day, we began our journey of South India. The driver I had pre-arranged from Tamil Nadu Tourism had arrived relatively on time and with a larger car than I had anticipated. Great!

Mahabalipuram
Located about 58 km (36 mi) south of Chennai right off the ECR road was Mahabalipuram. I had already visited Mahabalipuram before, but still couldn’t help but be awed by the rock-cut temple architecture built by the Pallavas between the 5th and 9th centuries. What dedication it must have taken to carve such hard granite structures (and some without an apparent purpose), many of which were carved from single stones. The pleasant temperatures made it enjoyable walking along the paths and climbing up rocks to reach the structures. Chipmunks scurried about structures, climbing on top of their stone sculptures of gods. Newborn puppies whimpered quietly near a temple with a prominent Shiva linga in the shape of the male body part. Goats scampered down granite rocks and over to some plants. Under the massive boulder known as Krishna’s Butterball, goats lazed in the shade.

Even though I had taken quite a few photos of the relief carvings at Arjuna’s Penance as well as the Five Rathas, I felt compelled to take more. There were more visitors at the Five Rathas and at the Shore Temple (UNESCO World Heritage Site), but overall it wasn’t nearly as crowded as last time. Children climbed up and slid down the huge stone Nandi bull sculpture. Photos of friends and family were taken next to the elephant and Nandi sculptures as well as between the pillars of Bhima’s Rath. Many school groups were here, with the children coming up to us to ask what our names were, where we were from, and if we would be willing to take their photo. At the Shore Temple (700-728 AD), I noticed for the first time that portions of this highly influential Dravidian style temple still was covered with a white limestone-like surface – and was quite detailed. Most other portions were very soft and worn by sea.

For lunch we ate at rooftop restaurant by sea, tasting some calamari prawns as we enjoyed the sea breeze. While in town we also spent a few minutes visiting the marble and granite carvers. Some used powered tools sounding like dental drill to quickly transform a large block into a Hindu god sculpture. For visitors unable to haul such heavy souvenirs, plenty of palm-sized pieces such as reclining Ganeshas with a computer or spherical tea light candleholders were just waiting to be purchased.

South of Mahabalipuram, the scene became more rural. Cement buildings were replaced by thatched huts. Men tended cows alongside road and in fields. Cows ambled across the road or lay in middle, seemingly aware of their elevated and protected status. Women were busy sweeping courtyard of their house. Many of the rice paddies were flooded, with a few workers in the fields.

See more photos of Mahabalipuram on my Flickr page

Tweet

Kailasagiri, Vizag

Located on one of the main hills overlooking Vizag is Kailasagiri. From here, one has a panoramic view of natural harbor of Vizag, the sprawling city, and bay. Well maintained with plenty of shade trees, grassy areas, flowers, and well-manicured shrubs, this would be a great spot for picnic. In our short amount of time, we took the rope car down for a pretty (but similar) view, walked around a bit of the area, and admired the 40 meter high white statues of Shiva and Parvathi. I would have liked to walk through the park a bit more but didn’t want to be late back at the vehicle. It turned out that I would have had plenty of time, as the others slowly wandered back over 20 minutes late – grrr.

Tweet

Aleppy

Just a block away was our hotel, part of the backwaters tour package. Our rooms were at the top level, its interior walls created from woven palm fronds. Although pretty, those thin walls left little in the way of privacy.

On our way to the beach, we walked next to the city canal. Known as the “Venice of the East”, the waters in this Kerala town were teaming with canoes and small boats, escorting tourists and locals alike to other parts of the town. Once at the beach, we were treated to a joyful sight – kites flying, kids (of all ages) giggling as they splashed water on each other, beach vendors, and sand creations including a curvy woman sculpture. Family members held hands as they walked along the clean sands. Others enjoyed the relatively warm waters, with the women entering the waters in their saris. Was this air of delight a common one, or was it made extra special due to the Diwali holiday? After the sun finally disappeared beyond the pink-cast sea, we headed over to the nearby restaurant – another Indian Coffee House. Finishing our meal over fluorescent flashlight (power cut), we returned back to the hotel, tired after the long day.

Despite our fatigue, none of us slept well. Firecrackers pierced the night air in celebration of Diwali. Then the rain came as a downpour, its sound exaggerated by the tin roof. In the pre-dawn hours more firecrackers could be heard, along with the early call to prayer. Just as it became light, the crows began to do a tap dance on the tin roof, ending any chance to sleep. At least the day would be a relaxing one on the houseboat.

Tweet

Kollam

Shoving Match
Emerging from our air-conditioned train car, we now were in Kollam, a port town 71 km north of Trivandrum. Piling out of the 25-cent ride rickshaw, we were at the banks of the water, where backwaters tours could be arranged. After some negotiations in price and package, the designated taxi driver arrived to take us to the start of our canoe portion of the trip. Immediately the driver came up to the tour operator and pushed the then-stunned man. One of my colleagues came to the aid of the tour operator, breaking up the provocation through her gestures and forceful voice. After completing a written police statement, two auto rickshaws took us instead.

Canoe Ride in Ashtumudi Lake
The rather large canoe hewn out of thick dark wood then pushed off into the waters of the Ashtumudi Lake. Sharing the waters were some other canoes and the large Kerala houseboats known as kettuvallams. Soon we were in the more secluded canals and river waterways around Munroe Island. Coconut palm trees cast strong reflections on the still brown waters. Flowering bushes dotted the river edge, shored up with a protective stone barrier. Along the meandering paths walked young women clad in brightly colored saris and salwars, chatting merrily as they gestured with one hand and carried an umbrella in the other. Young children emerged out of their small homes, waving to us with unrestrained cheeriness. The soothing sound of Kerala music wafted through the air. Goats munched on the abundant green grass. Chickens clucked as they ran across the yard. Cormorants dried their spread wings, sitting on a branch. Occasionally we spotted a Kingfisher bird, perching in a tree or on electrical wire. Kite birds circled above.

Village Walk
A few times we got out of the canoe to meet some of the villagers. Here we observed a demonstration in which the fibers of the coconut were transformed into strands of rope, doubled and then twisted. Most of this rope would be exported to the US. At another residence we saw an assortment of herbs and plants used for medicine and food. Scattered about the yard were plants such as peppermint, tumeric, little hot peppers, ginger, black pepper, a special plant for the diabetic wife, beetle nut tree, jack fruit, pineapple, and tapioca plants. Watching the elder man of the house deftly hack open a coconut for us to drink, one teacher asked if people sometimes cut off a finger. In a convincing tone of voice, our boatsman replied “Well of course. Even this man has a finger missing!” Looking carefully, we realized that our boatman was once again exercising his sense of wit and humor.

Inquiring about the population of Munroe Island, our young boater told us that about 30% work in the Middle East. This probably helped supplement the sustenance farming, dominated by rice. Considering the 99% literacy rate of Kerala, I hope that those workers are able to utilize their education. Scattered throughout the island were Hindu temples, many of which employed the distinctive Kerala architecture including the red tiled steep sloping roof, triangular windows and entryway mantles. According to our guide, 98% of the islanders are Hindu, with only one large family being Christian.

Through the Canals
Going deeper into the canals we came across a pond-like area full of lily pads. Our guide scooped up one waterlily and deftly transformed it into a necklace with alternating color “beads.” In some areas we had to duck way down to avoid hitting the narrow bridges. Boating past a net-covered fish farm we noticed a dog peering out of a crude open-air doghouse.

Back onto the main waters we spotted the destructive contributions of man. Plastic bottles floated in the water. A floating pool of gas trailed a houseboat.

Contrasting this was the emerging sunset, casting a pink hue over sky and water. Still hearing the radio of the female singer, the scene was idyllic as our boatman poled his way along the final stretch.

Kollam Town and Beach
By the time we arrived in Kollam, it was dark. Dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we walked into the section of own near our hotel. Enjoying a very tasty meal of spicy chicken, we also sampled pastry at a very clean bakery prominently displaying its Christian faith.

Having some time before catching the ferry the following morning, we went to the beach just across the road from the hotel. All along the beach men could be seen squatting, using the sand as a litter box. We knew we would have to watch our step as we proceeded to the water.

Scattered throughout the beach were single flip-flops and sandals, reminding me of the lone socks that emerge from the washing machine/dryer. The strong riptide and waves kept crashing in, preventing us from getting to the calmer area beyond. Considering the dubious cleanliness of the sea, perhaps it was just as well.

See photos of the backwaters around Kollam

Tweet

A Trip to Ideal Beach Resort, Mahabalipuram

A mere 3 ½ hours after arriving at my apartment, I was boarding a school bus to the Ideal Beach Resort, located outside the historical city of Mahabalipuram, about 40 km away from Chennai. Following a shaded road to the hotel buildings, we were welcomed with a garland of jasmine flowers. Walking towards the hotel room the school rented for the day, I noticed how new all the buildings looked. This was one of the areas affected by the tsunami of 2004.

Walking along the sandy beach, I scanned the horizon of the sea. In the distance, fisherman braved the rough seas in boats hewn from logs. Along the shore, colorful boats and weathered log boats lined the beach for quite a distance. A few fishermen were mending their nets, using their toes to facilitate the process. Next to the hotel’s’ beach area, small fishermen’s huts were built a distance away from the shore. I wonder if these simple dwellings were all built post 2004, not to mention how the tsunami must have affected the livelihoods of these people dependent on the sea.

Along the warm golden sand, I spotted the carcasses of several ocean creatures, including several puffer fish, red snapper, and eels. Young men posed for a camera with the fish carcass they had used to create their version of a sand castle. Crabs scuttled, camouflaged by the sand, popping into a vast network of small sand holes. Cows lounged around on the beach, also seeming to enjoy a holiday. In the distance, more thatched huts were visible next to a more forested section. A Hindu man with his Christian wife approached us, eager to sell the bedspreads made from used saris (traditional Indian woman's dress). Although colorful and clever, neither one of us had brought any money - an easier (but truthful) way to decline buying anything.

After an enjoyable brunch consisting of both Western and Indian foods, I took a swim in the hotel’s pool – cleaner and free of dangerous rip tides than the nearby sea. Others relaxed in lounge chairs around the large pool. Rather quiet when I arrived, the pool area was later filled with the sounds of multiple languages and children splashing. There were quite a number of Korean families. It is likely that many of these will be attending the American International School in Chennai where I work. Knowing I had enough sun exposure, I decided to sit in the shade for a while. Eyeing an ice cream bar one of the Korean kids was eating, I also decided to get one – a wonderful treat on a humid day.

I then took a walk through the grounds of the resort. Flowers and plants lined the walkways. Palm trees dotted the lush lawn. Large white statues of Hindu gods contrasted sharply from the colorful surroundings, seemingly not part of the same world. Butterflies danced in the air, fluttering to the flowers in the trees and ground. Construction, most of it done by hand, was underway, with more landscaping and buildings developing.


After another walk on the beach and driveway, it was time for us to return to Chennai. I was eager to unpack my suitcases from that morning. With its closeness to Chennai and tranquility difficult to find in the city, this would be a nice place to visit for the weekend. I will then have to visit the famous granite carvings of Mahabalipuram.

Tweet