A Stroll along Xingqing Lake

This weekend, I went to Xingqingong Park in Xi'an to see the autumn colors there. This park, the largest public park in Xi'an, is built on the site of the Xingqing Palace of the Tang Dynasty (616-907 AD). Walking through a traditional-style gate, we took a path leading to the main lake. Although it was overcast and hazy, the autumnal colors reflected nicely on the water's surface. Several traditional-style buildings peeked in between tall willow trees.

Traditional-style buildings along Xingqing Lake

Although it was fairly early in the morning, the park was already alive with people. Many others chose to take the path circumnavigating the lake.

Colorful boats, some styled with childhood characters, were parked along the shore. I can imagine that the lake would be dotted with them in the warmer weather.

In the distance, skyscrapers from a modern Xi'an contrasted sharply with the elegant traditional park structures.

Now that I've found this park, I am eager to return to it in the different seasons. It reminds me of my walks around the beautiful pond at Changgyeonggung Palace in Seoul.

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A Walk on the Xi'an City Wall - Part II

From the height of the Xi'an City Wall, I had a fairly good view of the surrounding area. Outside of the wall were quite a few skyscrapers and modern buildings. Contained within the wall were buildings typically of an older era and generally shorter. Some were rather dilapidated and in desperate need of repair. Others had received some renovation but still retained an older look.

Some of the buildings just inside the south wall were hostels. A sign here indicated that this building was the site of the Honglu Guesthouse, built during the Tang Dynasty to accommodate foreign guests and ethnic envoys. How interesting that the area has retained its original function! 

I liked how some of the newer buildings reflected aspects of the traditional architecture.

Buildings as seen from the North Wall.

Within the Northwest corner of the city is the Guangren Llama Temple. It was built in 1703 as a Palace Hotel for Dalai Lamas and Panchen Lamas on their way to pay homage in Capitol. It is the only Tibetan Buddhist temple within the Shaanxi province and the only worship temple for the Green Tara. The bronze roof of the Golden Worship Hall glistened in the late afternoon sunlight.

Guangren Llama Temple

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A Walk On Top of the City Wall - part 1

Archery tower on top of one of the ramparts

I hadn't intended to walk the city walls on this day, but after walking a bit along a park-like path alongside and looking up at the massive structure, I couldn't stay away. Its 40-foot (12 meters) high brick walls with protruding ramparts beckoned me.

Yongning - South Gate

I walked up the promenade leading to the South Gate, known as Nongning, meaning Eternal Peace. This was extremely close to the subway stop where I exited. Being one of the major tourist sites in the city, signs in English were present. I paid for the entrance ticket by having the QR code on my WeChat app scanned – much easier than using cash.

A wide and lengthy walk

Once on top of the walls, the width and legnth of the wall impressed me. It is between 40-46 feet in width. From my view at the South Gate, I couldn't even see to either corner. To make the trip around the 8.5 miles (13.7 km) wall more manageable, many people opt to rent a bike. Tandem bikes were quite popular. Riding at about medium speed, the whole circumnavigation would take between 1.5-2 hours. For those in a hurry, battery car can take smaller groups around.  Others like me chose to walk.

West Gate (Anding)

Built by the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Xi'an City Wall was actually an enlargement of an original city wall made from rammed earth. The current structure is the largest and best-preserved city wall in China and one of the largest ancient military defensive systems worldwide. Around every 394 feet (120 meters), a rampart protruded from the wall. On top of each rampart was an archery sentry building. From here, soldiers could shoot arrows while being protected. The distance between each rampart was just within the range an arrow could be shot. Along the outer part of the wall were crenellations from where arrows could also be safely shot. The wall has a total of 5,948 of these battlements. Each gate had three gate towers. The outer one was used to raise and lower the suspension bridge. One opposite to it was used as a defensive outpost. An inner one was used as the main entrance to the city. Occasionally along the inner side of the wall, one could see very steep ramps that were once used for horses, but these were now blocked off. 

When I reached the West Gate (Anging) which means Harmony Peace, I had the option of descending. Seeing how clear the skies were and how pleasant the temperature was, I decided to push on.

Old and new structures side-by-side

Because I walked, I had plenty of opportunities to read the signs that were nicely posted in Mandarin and English. I also was able to take plenty of photos from different views.  Looking beyond the walls, one could see large contrasts in architecture, from run-down old structures to modern skyscrapers.

Wedding photos

A few bride and grooms took advantage of the beautiful weather and had some photos taken on this famous landmark. What a challenge the photographer must have had with the many bicyclists and pedestrians vying for the same space.

Northwest Watchtower

By the time I reached the northwest watchtower, the sun was already starting to get lower. I especially liked the roof of this building. Wanting to catch a taxi before it got dark, I pressed onward.

Bell from 1428

In the half of the wall that I walked, I saw a few bells. This bell near the Anding gate was from 1428 and was 5.6 feet (1.7 meters) high. Its rich tone once alerted people of the city.

North Gate at sunset

Just as I reached the North Gate (Anyuan), meaning Forever Harmony, the sun began to set. The flagposts, lamps, bell, and gate tower were now silhouetted against the warm glow of the sunset. It was a beautiful first trip to the Old City. With the address of my apartment written in Mandarin, a taxi driver successfully took me back to the concrete jungle of highrise apartments where I live about 25 minutes away. It was a good first adventure out.

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Roman Antonine Baths of Carthage, Tunisia 🇹🇳

The Baths of Antonine in Carthage, Tunisia, are the largest Roman baths constructed in Africa. In fact, they are one of the three largest Roman baths built anywhere. Built between 146 and 162AD, the baths are located right next to the Mediterranean Sea. The freshwater for the baths came via aqueducts from the Zaghuan mountains 60km south of Carthage. This aqueduct and the cisterns where the water was stored was a favorite site of mine, located less than 10 minutes' walk from my apartment.

Due to its close proximity to the sea, the baths (separate facilities for males and females) were located on the upper floors instead of the ground floor as is traditional. The marble capitals on the eight granite columns supporting the central dome each weighed four tons. Swimming pools were located both inside and outside the structure.

Much of what we see today is from the ground floor service area. One can still see the wood furnaces. A large portion of the masonry from the more beautiful upper floors was repurposed after the basement roof collapsed.

I especially liked the ornamental carving. This vertical piece, whose size dwarfs an adult, gives one an idea of how ornate the baths were. The Antonine Baths are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in Carthage.

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Mirrorwork Murals of the Kutch

About 63 km north of Bhuj lies some remote Banni villages in the Kutch region of Gujarat. We made the dusty drive there to appreciate the architecture and handicrafts of the people living here. Many of the people still live in these circular bhoonga (also spelled bhunga) huts, whose shape and mud walls are conducive to counteracting the oppressive heat of the region. In direct contrast to the drab surroundings, the exteriors of these conical dwellings are painted with brilliant colors. Traditional bhoongas have thick mud walls and conical thatched roofs, but some of the ones rebuilt after devastating earthquakes in 2001 were constructed from cement. 

Enter these bhoongas, and you'll be treated to some intricate mirrorwork murals. This mud relief mirrorwork is known as Lippan kam or Chittar kam. There are variations of this relief mudwork in various communities throughout the Kutch region. Equal mixtures of dung (either from wild ass or camels) is mixed with finely sifted clay. Men traditionally are in charge of gathering the clay and hauling it to the village. Some use millet husks, which provides a natural repellent to termites. Very fine coils are rolled on top of fresh slabs of clay. Round, diamond, or triangular mirrors known as aahbla are interspersed. Muslim artists generally constrain their motifs to geometric or floral designs. Women, often working together, form communal bonds as they work on the creative process, much like our quilting bees.

Lippan Kam is also functional. When placed on the outside, it acts as an insulator by reflecting heat. interior work helps magnify the effect of limited light sources. Imagine even how a single candle could magically light up an entire room, reflected by all the mirrors! 

A Rabari woman demonstrates how to make Lippan kam

A Banni woman with Paako embroidery

Interior of a Muslim Mutwa home

Lintel above a doorway

Mutwa embroidery

The designs of the Lippan kam are strongly reminiscent of their highly intricate embroidery. Beauty times two!

The Lippan Kam mirrorwork has currently appeared in two of my artworks, seen below.

Two of My Favorite Things. Color pencil, 2018 by Melissa Enderle

Bhunga and Bhandani. Color Pencil, 2017 by Melissa Enderle

See more of my artwork at www.melissaenderle.com.

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Thai Structure in the Snow

With a decent combination of blue skies, fresh snow, and non-frigid temperatures, I took a late Sunday afternoon walk over to Olbrich Gardens. Winter transforms the pavilion, which looks far more like its counterparts in Thailand during the summer (see example of the Emerald Buddha temple in Bangkok, below).

The late afternoon light caught the warm hues of the gold leaf and red underside, enhancing the jewel-like appearance.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Bangkok, Thailand

If you're in the Madison area, be sure to visit the Olbrich Gardens. Diversely beautiful in each of the four seasons.

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Churches of India

Inspired by an article in the current issue of  Culturama, I decided to post some my favorite photographs of churches. South India, particularly the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala,  has a large number of churches, as does Goa. (Northeastern states such as Mizoram have an even greater percentage of Christians - up to 90%, but I never traveled there). Christianity came to South India around 52 AD via the disciple Thomas. He was martyred in Chennai twenty years later. While the colorful Hindu temples of Tamil Nadu are spectacular, the regional churches are also majestic. A variety of architectural styles can be seen, influenced largely by origins of missionaries. 

Read the article in Culturama for information about these and other churches.

Which is your favorite? Do you have other noteworthy Indian churches to share?

Velankanni Basilica, Tamil Nadu

Church of the Immaculate Conception, Pondicherry

Church at Little Mount, Chennai (Tamil Nadu)

Church of the Sacred Heart, Pondicherry

Sacred Heart exterior, Pondicherry

Idaikattur Church, Tamil Nadu

Church along the backwaters of Kerala

San Thome Basilica, Chennai (Tamil Nadu)

Oriyur, Tamil Nadu

St. Philomena Church, Mysore (Karnataka)

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Reflected Pavilion, Olbrich

via Instagram

My newest artwork: Reflected Pavilion, Olbrich

Oil Pastel. Madison, WI

Instead of painting the pavilion itself, I focused on the imagery within the adjoining pool. If you haven't visited the Olbrich Gardens with its Thai pavilion (the only one in North America), you're missing out on a scenic, free botanical garden.

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Statuary of the Wisconsin State Capitol

For those willing to walk up the winding stairway to the base of the domed area of the capitol building, some additional artistic creations await. As you circumnavigate the observation deck, you will notice four groups of statuary made from Bethel White Vermont granite.  Completed between 1911 and 1915, they were carved by American master sculptor, Karl Bitter. The sculptures are arranged in pyramidal groups of three, with the central figure standing on a raised base and about 12 feet high. On each side of are seated figures, each about 5 feet high. Each group are meant to symbolize characteristics of Wisconsin and its citizens.

Overlooking East Washington Avenue is the group representing Knowledge. The seated figures, representing the inherited knowledge base, conduct research in scrolls/books. The central figure, reminding me of Michelangelo's male sculptures, is depicted as one who contemplates the significance of the world. He builds upon his own studies with past historians who have recorded their observations and experiences. Religious faith and knowledge is also emphasized here, along with worldly insight.     

Overlooking Martin Luther King Jr. Boulevard is the group representing "Faith" - an aspect that Bitter saw as an important in the lives of Wisconsin citizens.  These female figures bow their heads in humility and obedience, revering a higher power and respecting the civil law. Love, charity, and strength are also exuded by this trio.

This group of figures, facing the northwest direction towards Washington Avenue, signifies Prosperity and Abundance. As the second group of all-females. they are shown with symbols such as an overflowing vase of fruit and cornucopias of plenty. The standing figure extends her hand as if to give to others. This sculptural set emphasizes the rich farmland of the state, along with industrial and natural resources. Such abundance benefits the citizens and its government.

Strength is what the trio facing the West Washington Avenue embodies. The central figure holds a shield and sword, signifying his readiness to defend his country. One of the seated figures is very muscular, conveying physical strength and endurance. The other figure, although also muscular, is blind, emphasizing that the service and defence requires more than just brute strength; it also requires insightful, knowledgeable individuals.

Resource: Wisconsin State Capitol Guide and History

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Liberty and the Branches

Right below the rotunda, one can find four beautiful mosaics. Made by Kenyon Cox, Liberty and the branches of government are represented. Each measures about 28x20' and contains about 10,000 pieces of glass. The tiny hand-cut pieces are made from many different types of glass, including opaque, colored, shiny, and matte, with backings of aluminum and copper.  Considered some of the finest glass mosaics in the world, the varied glass types create a strong dimensional effect.

Liberty mosaic

Justice mosaic

Justice mosaic (detail)

Legislation mosaic

Government mosaic

See more of my photos from the Wisconsin State Capitol in Madison

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