Madumalai Wildlife Sanctuary

Wanting to have as much time as possible to also enjoy Mysore located 155 km away, we reluctantly headed onwards after buying some tea and scented sandalwood oil. We passed by tea fields appearing to flow down steep hills, some of which contained speckles of distant women picking. Suddenly the scene would change, varying between groves of bamboo plants, thin, tall trees, some banyan trees, and those of a more tropical type. A sign indicated that we were now in the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary, the largest in Tamil Nadu and perhaps one of the most important in the southern region. This sanctuary borders the Bandipur National Park in Karnataka and the Wynad Sanctuary in Kerala. Although we did not spot any tigers, sambar, antelope, leopards, or panthers present in the area, we did spot some elephants, wild boar, peacocks, common langur, and bonnet macaques. In addition to the variety of traffic with wheels, we now had to contend with the four-legged type – elephants on the road moving along large bundles of grassy branches. Along the way to Mysore we also passed by large strands of coconuts dangling from a tree with the seller sitting nearby ready with straws and a knife. Shepherds (men and women) carefully tended their sheep and goats, an umbrella in the left hand just in case the weather changed. Women carried large bundles of twigs, walking gracefully towards the village. So many wonderful photographic scenes passed us by.

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Toda Tribe, Ooty

Climbing up a hill past some immensely tall trees with flowing, extending roots, we reached a house with colorful laundry hanging outside. An Indian woman and her daughter were there, so I asked her where we might find the Todas, a tribal group located in the region. She explained that she was a Toda and directed us to the gate where we could see more people of her tribe. Rather quickly, we were met by a Toda man, dressed in a dhoti and plaid shirt. Nearby, other men were dressed similarly – certainly not the traditional Toda costumes of thick white woven shawls striped with red and black as pictured in the guidebook. Similarly, the homes were also of a more modern type, built of concrete, painted in bright colors, and containing satellite dishes on top. We obviously were not going to get an authentic experience here.

Thankfully, there was at least a traditional 100-yr old barrel-shaped temple made out of bamboo, grass and cane available for us to see. The only opening was a very small door (no visitors allowed). Symbols on the front included the sun, moon, and a buffalo. A short distance away was a fenced in area, containing a very cute baby Toda buffalo with long ears and light brown shaggy fur. The buffalo are revered in Toda culture and are also used for their milk, which is consumed in vast quantities. Next to the pen was another barrel shaped hut and a square one made out of mud. Walking towards the man’s home, he pointed out his father going up the hill, wearing the traditional shawl. In the man’s nicely furnished bright pink home, he showed us some of the shawls, scarves, and vest all in the creamy white wool with red and black embroidered motifs. Spotting a photo of his wife (with the characteristic hair ringlets) and child, I was glad to hear that their child was being exposed to Toda traditional culture, despite the outward embracement of modern life.

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Ooty Botanical Gardens

At the hotel, we were greeted warmly by the people behind the reception desk and then in the restaurant where we ate a late supper. It actually felt rather good (or at least a change) to cuddle up in several blankets that night – something I certainly don’t do in Chennai. The next morning, we were awakened to the sun and a blue sky. Fresh chai made from Nilgiris tea was a great way to start the morning. Now that it was daylight, we finally had a chance to see what Ooty looked like. Colorful but small homes nestled up the steep slopes of hills. An emerald shade of green, many of the hills were carpeted with tea bushes or were terraced. Like most South Indian towns, Ooty had its share of tea & coffee stalls, stands selling samosas and other fast foods, barber shops, and tiny stores selling a bit of this and that. A large arch graced across the main road, along with huge photos of state politicians and the party flag.

Inside the Botanical Gardens, one of the first things that caught my eye was a small pond with calla lilies encircling it. With the drops of last night’s rains still on the white petals, they were enjoyable to photograph. Unlike some of the botanical gardens I’d seen in India, this one was quite beautiful. Everything was well-maintained and manicured. Paths crisscrossed through the green grass, past a large variety of trees, shrubs, and colorful plants. Stairs led up to a flowerbed with contrasting plant colors forming the shape of playing card symbols. A sign next to a fossilized tree trunk proudly marked the tree’s old age. The clean scent of eucalyptus and cedar filled the air. Everyone seemed to be rather relaxed, enjoying the beauty before them.

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Drive to Ooty

For a departure from temple towns, flat land, and rice paddies, a trip to the Nilgiris is an excellent choice. Nicknamed the “Blue Mountains” (or nila giri), this junction of the Eastern and Western Ghats is named because of the Kurunji shrub that turns the hills blue with blossoms once every 12 years. Similar to the hill station in Munnar, this region contains high altitude grasslands, shoals (montane evergreen forests), and steep hills covered with freshly plucked short tea bushes. Although the drive up to the Nilgiris can be slow, one is rewarded with beautiful glimpses of lush green valleys, tea plantations, various types of trees, and some wildlife. Due to its high elevation, clean air, and cooler climate, Ooty and surrounding areas in the Nilgiris are popular tourist destinations, particularly by South Indian residents who come here to escape the scorching heat.

What started as an efficient drive from Srirangam abruptly changed shortly after passing the “Welcome to the Nilgiris” sign. Our car climbed up the steep road, passing through forests of tall sholas and tropical trees. Due to a road closure further up (the Nilgiris had problems this monsoon season with mudslides), we had to turn around and take the less efficient route to Ooty. Seeing that some people had pulled over and were now looking in the valley below, we also went to check things out. Several wild elephants were spotted, but unfortunately trees mostly obscured the view. The air was much cooler and cleaner up here – a refreshing change from the normally hot & humid Chennai. Our driver expertly maneuvered the car through the narrow winding roads without becoming impatient, stressed, or aggressive. A bit higher up, we began spotting more monkeys along the roads and in trees. Soon the light began to fade, enveloping the tea fields with a cool blue fog. Visibility was further reduced by rainfall. Further along, our pace slowed from a crawl to a halt, due to an accident. Needless to say, we arrived in Ooty much later than expected.

For more photos of Ooty, visit my Ooty Flickr page

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