Namimaids and Warming Snowmen

This past weekend, I braved the cold temperatures with a meetup group and headed over to Nami Island. Located 63 km from Seoul, this tiny island with an area of 460,000 sq km is a popular tourist destination. After the airing of the 2002 Korean drama Winter Sonata, many fans flocked to this island to see the filming location. 

After taking a short ferry across the Han River, one of the first things I saw was the "namimaid," the island's famous statue clad in a winter outfit. Behind her were frozen waterspout fountains.

I enjoyed walking on the lanes through the island. This one was rather quiet. Most people seemed to be more concentrated around the interior areas, particularly the shops and cafés. With gingko trees and gardens, it must be quite pretty in the fall and spring.

Thousands of trees were planted by Mr. Byeong-Do Minn, who purchased the island in the 1960s for the purpose of transforming it into a recreational site. Now, the metasequoias are 40 meters tall.

In 2006, Nami Island declared its cultural independence from South Korea, renaming itself the Naminara Republic. It has its own flag, national anthem, and even some chunky looking currency with a square hole in the middle (Korean won still readily accepted though). For a 15,000 won, you could buy a passport, or you could have your "real" passport stamped. 

On this chilly day, keeping warm was on many people's minds. After walking around for a while after a lunch at of the island's several restaurants, we entered a café for a hot drink and a chance to warm up. These people joined the snowman and dog who had already been warming their paws/hands at the fire. Despite cold hands, the cell phones were still out and active. I kept my gloved hands in my jacket pockets when possible, warmed by some excellent army-grade warmer packets purchased at one of the shops. Gotta get me some more of those - it was still generating heat 18 hours later!

Wintry-themed mosaic fountain

One of the island's attractions are the ostriches. They felt a bit out of place in the wintry scene.

The island is also home to deer, squirrels, rabbits, ducks, and birds, but none of these were seen on this cold day.

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Red-Bellied Visitor

While eating lunch at the Tonto Natural Bridge, this cardinal paid us a visit. Rather close to us, it stayed on the fence several minutes, appearing rather comfortable with humans. It was all too eager to receive some bread crumbs from our picnic lunch, acting as if he'd done it before. Now only if it had sung its beautiful melodies!

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Black and White on Black

Always on the lookout for interesting decorative tiles and wood pieces of the buildings at Changdeokggung Palace, I always make a point of looking upward. The black and white markings of this bird made it blend in with the black dragon tile on which it had perched. 

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Ta Phrom

Built in 1186, the temple of Ta Phrom has been left much as it had when European explorers first laid site on the ruins. The giant spung trees had massive roots which appear to swallow the rock structures, paying little heed to the beauty of the bas-reliefs they have enveloped, breaking apart the temple rock by rock. In some areas, the thick roots reminded me of a huge boa constrictor, squeezing out the life of its man-made victim. What the trees haven't claimed, the lichen has covered. The deafening constant noise of the cicadas and the call of the green parrots overhead were additional reminders that the jungle around us was still very much alive.

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Wildlife at Low Tide

The boat chugged its way through some of the five interconnected rivers as well as a few smaller ones. As the water receded once again, I could see how an understanding of the river topography would be invaluable in successful navigation. What was completely flooded several hours ago was now a steep mounded bank. An egret stood in the remaining trickle of water flowing in the clay valley. Several types of colorful crabs and conical shelled creatures abounded on the shores. Shore birds such as the curlew and Indian Pond Heron combed the mud for tasty morsels. Other animals spotted included several Ganges River dolphins, wild hogs, wild roosters, and spotted deer.

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High Tide Wildlife

During high tide, all I spotted were a few monkeys and some birds. After a few hours, the stilt roots of the Rizophora trees began appearing. The lower leaves revealed the typical high tide level, now tinted a lighter color with salt deposits. As the clay ground emerged, so did more animals. 

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Canoe Ride in the Sunderbans

Once in the canoe, we were rowed past small fishing boats with a short semi-circular shelter. Kingfisher birds of varying colors perched on top of poles and branches. From the muddy shores, birds such as Indian pond herons searched for fish, tadpoles, and crustaceans. Crabs merrily scampered along the muddy beach. In the calm waters, tiny fish skipped across the surface. The sky now changing from a warm orange to pink, a few fishermen were spotted, casting their nets from the muddy shore. Flocks of birds flew across the sky, mere silhouettes at dusk. With the light rapidly fading, our expert rower navigated to the large boat that would be our abode for the night and tour vehicle the next day. After some live entertainment by several local Bengali musicians, we headed below deck for the night. 

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Quite a Handful

Firmly clenching several chickens, this man has just left the poultry selling shop. Are all these mangy-looking chickens destined to land on his home's dinner plates?

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Peacock Window

The elaborate Victoria Terminus building also has some beautiful windows, such as this one with a peacock design above it. Very appropriate, as the peacock is the national bird of India.

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Migratory Birds...and a TV Camera

Prior to visiting the villages, our guide wanted us to visit a spot where migratory birds liked (or used to) stop. We saw some sandpipers, coct ducks, stilt birds, and white herons, but were few in number. While explaining the reason, an army helicopter swarmed overhead, followed by another a couple of minutes later. Indeed, it was understandable why the birds were disturbed with all that noise. While we were discussing this, a truck pulled up and out piled out a reporter and camera crew from a local TV station. The microphone thrust at us, I was asked to give our opinion the wildlife situation before us. Hoping it was the right thing to say, I expressed my opinion on what saw and suggested that perhaps the army could find a different place to practice their flight tests. This is the third time I’ve been on TV while traveling in India!

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Early Morning in Udaipur

Thankful for a few hours’ rest in some rather comfortable recliner chairs in a quiet part of the Delhi airport, we proceeded to the gate to board an early morning flight to Udaipur. Nicknamed by some as “the Venice of the East” and regarded as a very romantic city, this southern Rajasthan location is a favorite spot on the tourist trail. The still early morning light cast its magical glow on all it touched. Standing at the edge of Lake Pachouli, I took in the scene. Milky white havelis danced in the rippled water. Green and yellow - reflections from some trees and a larger building - competed for attention. At a small temple across the lake, women were already partway finished with washing clothes in the lake, with freshly laundered items already strung out in front of the temple. Off to my left, an older woman beat her wet sari with what looked like a cricket bat. Along a railing, clothes hung like misshapen beads. A young woman with long wet hair continued wrapping the length of blue sari material up and over her shoulder, looking across towards the Jag Niwas palace in the middle of the lake and the mountains beyond. Flocks of birds swooped synchronously in the blue sky as if part of a choreographed performance, pausing briefly on old domes.

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Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, Tamil Nadu

Painted Storks amidst the green, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Today I went to the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary, located about 90 km from Chennai. Each winter South India becomes temporary home to migratory birds. During this time, there may be over 75,000 birds and over 115 different species. First recognized as a sanctuary in 1936 and formally declared a Wildlife Sanctuary in 1972, Vedanthangal is the oldest bird sanctuary in India.





The sheer numbers and concentration of birds makes it a guaranteed spotting for all. Those with higher-powered binoculars or lenses can view beyond the masses and see details such as nesting activities. Some of the major birds I spotted included painted storks, open-billed storks, snake birds, Indian pond herons, grey pelicans, grey herons, little egrets, little comorants, cattle egrets, white ibises, and glossy ibises.

See more photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/melissaenderle/sets/72157625710248945/

Read a previous blog post on the bird sanctuary http://melissaenderle.blogspot.com/2009/11/vedanthangal-bird-sanctuary.html

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Lalbagh Gardens, Bangalore

After packing our bags in the car for the last time and politely saying no to a man who wanted to take us to certain places, we endured the Bangalore traffic and reached the Lalbagh gardens. Established in 1740 by Haider Ali, these gardens are spread over 240 acres of land. Its contents are quite varied – from the tropical and subtropical plants already initially over by Haider’s son Tipu Sultan, to rare species imported from London in the 1870’s. We walked past the massive rock hill composed of Peninsular Gneissic rock (said to be one of the oldest in the world), past a sleeping dog on a bench, and towards Lalbagh’s iconic structure – the Glass House. This airy 19th century structure was modeled after London’s Crystal Palace. Although it was presently empty, an annual horticultural show transforms the Glass House into a floral wonderland. In front of this was a military bandstand, also built by the British around the same time. On the park’s many paths shaded by champaka trees and pencil cedars, people could be seen strolling along and engaged in multiple forms of exercise. School children also came to enjoy the well-maintained park. Out of a hole in one tree popped out a bright green parrot with an orange beak. Crows squawked noisily amidst the branches of bamboo. Although the lotus pool had no flowers at the time, we did have ample opportunities to photograph other flowers. There are said to be over 1,000 species of flora in the park and contains India’s largest collection of rare plants.

See more photos of the Lalbagh Gardens on my Bangalore Flickr set

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Jami Masjid, Agra

As I had some time before departing by train back to Delhi, I decided to visit the Jami Masjid and the bazaars and narrow alleys surrounding the mosque. A bicycle rickshaw driver offered to take me to this heart of historic Agra, located just past the Red Fort. This “Friday Mosque” fit in very well with the other structures I had seen in Agra. It also was constructed in 1648 of red sandstone and has marble domes. A unique feature is the mosque’s zigzag chevron pattern, present on the domes and on columns. The British destroyed the eastern courtyard wing in 1857. The man who greeted me asked for a donation that was being used for restoration, including the replacement of the large flat stones in the courtyard. Close to the entrance of the mosque is the ablution tank with a royal stove used for heating water. Pigeons bathed in the tank and dotted the large courtyard, flying up in groups once in a while. Off of the main worship area is the prayer area for women. Aside from one boy, the old man, and a few construction workers, the complex was devoid of people.

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Zari and Zardozi

Having read about Agra’s textile arts known as zari (elaborate gold thread embroidery) and bead embroidery (known as zardozi), I asked to visit a place where this craft was being demonstrated. Literally meaning “sewing with gold,” zardozi was a prospering craft during Akbar’s time but gradually declined. Older saris of Chennai used this same technique with gold-covered thread, making such saris very valuable. During Akbar’s time, costumes, walls of tents, wall hangings, and coverings for horses and elephants all employed this technique. Intricate patterns were traced in gold and silver, studded with pearls and precious stones. These were sewn on silk, velvet, and brocade. Today zardozi threads consist of copper wire with a golden sheen or use gold-colored silk thread. In the shop (mainly for sale), a young man (this craft is done predominantly by Muslim men) was using colored silk thread to embroider silk thread flower designs for evening purses. Displayed on the wall were several masterpieces created by a man who is credited to reviving the craft in Agra. One was a floral design created with colored silk threads, outlined with the gold thread, and studded with precious and semi-precious stones and gems. Another comprised of several birds, while a third was of a hunting scene. Unlike most designs of today, these pieces get their dimensionality not by adding thick cotton threads or stuffing, but by painstakingly layering on silk threads, one over the other until the desired height and shape is achieved.

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Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary

Each winter South India becomes temporary home to migratory birds from places as Canada. During this time, there may be over 75,000 birds and over 115 different species. Located about 90 km from Chennai, the Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary is an easy day trip. First recognized as a sanctuary in 1936 and formally declared a Wildlife Sanctuary in 1972, Vedanthangal is the oldest bird sanctuary in India.

In the early November morning, the lake was just beginning to awaken. A thin veil of haze still enshrouded the acacia and low trees, like sleepy eyes slightly obscuring one’s vision.  At first glance, the predominantly white bird population might lead one to conclude that there are only a few kinds. With the aid of binoculars or a large zoom lens, many types can be observed.  In one area, the Open-billed storks dominated, with a few Grey Herons (also from Bangladesh) interspersed. Higher in the trees, one could see Grey Pelicans (Australia). Painted storks from Siberia flew from some treetops back to their nesting spot, carrying some twigs in their beaks. Spoonbills took an early morning swim in the distance. Egrets of varying sizes were present in large numbers, their white feathers gleaming bright. In the rice paddies on the other side of the path were some Indian Pond Herons, holding ever so still. Egrets gathered around the ground just ploughed by the farmer and his two cattle. As the season progressed, more types of birds would join the party, adding splashes of color and size variances.

Just as we arrived, a large group of sari-clad women emerged from several large buses. They seemed to be on a much tighter schedule, so we let them go ahead of us. We still met up with some of the older ladies at the first two observation points. Some pointed at our binoculars camera, requesting to look through the lenses. Giving my camera to one lady, it soon was passed on to many more before I was finally able to get it back. It was obvious that many of them had never looked through a viewfinder before, but they obviously enjoyed the experience. A short while later, most of the group was gone. With the sanctuary largely to ourselves and a few others, the sounds of nature dominated. Different birdcalls were heard, all contributing to the informal symphony.  Thankfully, the annoying whine of mosquitoes was not heard, thanks largely to the pest-eating birds. Between the pleasant temperatures and lack of pests, our visit was unfettered. Reluctantly, we decided to move on, heading towards our second destination – Gingee Fort.

The Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary is largely successful due to the commitment and cooperation of the local population that has a symbiotic relationship with the birds. In turn for keeping the surrounding area free of noisy activities, banning bird hunting, and not boating in the lake, the villagers receive many benefits; naturally fertilized land (no need for artificial fertilizer or insecticide), far fewer insects, pests & rodents, and high crop yields.

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Sandhill Cranes

Often times on our walks we see sandhill cranes congregating in the fields or flying above. Their call is not melodic but is rather loud, definitely announcing their presence. Wisconsin is one of the major summer breeding grounds for these tall grey birds who prefer open meadows, grasslands, and wetlands - making the Theresa Marsh (part of the largest freshwater marsh in North America) a prime spot.

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Birds of Pulikat Lake

Once out on the lake, flecks of white appeared in the distance – both in the sky and in the shallow waters. Egrets were the most populous birds, followed by herons. A few Eurasian Curlews were also spotted, distinguished by their long, narrow curved beaks. Cormorants spread out their wings, airing our their feathers in the morning sun. Those with binoculars got a look at a flock of painted storks, something our boat driver didn’t expect to happen. Due to the shallowness of the water we were unable to get closer, so we had to be satisfied with the views through lenses.

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