A Walk on the Xi'an City Wall - Part II

From the height of the Xi'an City Wall, I had a fairly good view of the surrounding area. Outside of the wall were quite a few skyscrapers and modern buildings. Contained within the wall were buildings typically of an older era and generally shorter. Some were rather dilapidated and in desperate need of repair. Others had received some renovation but still retained an older look.

Some of the buildings just inside the south wall were hostels. A sign here indicated that this building was the site of the Honglu Guesthouse, built during the Tang Dynasty to accommodate foreign guests and ethnic envoys. How interesting that the area has retained its original function! 

I liked how some of the newer buildings reflected aspects of the traditional architecture.

Buildings as seen from the North Wall.

Within the Northwest corner of the city is the Guangren Llama Temple. It was built in 1703 as a Palace Hotel for Dalai Lamas and Panchen Lamas on their way to pay homage in Capitol. It is the only Tibetan Buddhist temple within the Shaanxi province and the only worship temple for the Green Tara. The bronze roof of the Golden Worship Hall glistened in the late afternoon sunlight.

Guangren Llama Temple

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A Walk On Top of the City Wall - part 1

Archery tower on top of one of the ramparts

I hadn't intended to walk the city walls on this day, but after walking a bit along a park-like path alongside and looking up at the massive structure, I couldn't stay away. Its 40-foot (12 meters) high brick walls with protruding ramparts beckoned me.

Yongning - South Gate

I walked up the promenade leading to the South Gate, known as Nongning, meaning Eternal Peace. This was extremely close to the subway stop where I exited. Being one of the major tourist sites in the city, signs in English were present. I paid for the entrance ticket by having the QR code on my WeChat app scanned – much easier than using cash.

A wide and lengthy walk

Once on top of the walls, the width and legnth of the wall impressed me. It is between 40-46 feet in width. From my view at the South Gate, I couldn't even see to either corner. To make the trip around the 8.5 miles (13.7 km) wall more manageable, many people opt to rent a bike. Tandem bikes were quite popular. Riding at about medium speed, the whole circumnavigation would take between 1.5-2 hours. For those in a hurry, battery car can take smaller groups around.  Others like me chose to walk.

West Gate (Anding)

Built by the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the Xi'an City Wall was actually an enlargement of an original city wall made from rammed earth. The current structure is the largest and best-preserved city wall in China and one of the largest ancient military defensive systems worldwide. Around every 394 feet (120 meters), a rampart protruded from the wall. On top of each rampart was an archery sentry building. From here, soldiers could shoot arrows while being protected. The distance between each rampart was just within the range an arrow could be shot. Along the outer part of the wall were crenellations from where arrows could also be safely shot. The wall has a total of 5,948 of these battlements. Each gate had three gate towers. The outer one was used to raise and lower the suspension bridge. One opposite to it was used as a defensive outpost. An inner one was used as the main entrance to the city. Occasionally along the inner side of the wall, one could see very steep ramps that were once used for horses, but these were now blocked off. 

When I reached the West Gate (Anging) which means Harmony Peace, I had the option of descending. Seeing how clear the skies were and how pleasant the temperature was, I decided to push on.

Old and new structures side-by-side

Because I walked, I had plenty of opportunities to read the signs that were nicely posted in Mandarin and English. I also was able to take plenty of photos from different views.  Looking beyond the walls, one could see large contrasts in architecture, from run-down old structures to modern skyscrapers.

Wedding photos

A few bride and grooms took advantage of the beautiful weather and had some photos taken on this famous landmark. What a challenge the photographer must have had with the many bicyclists and pedestrians vying for the same space.

Northwest Watchtower

By the time I reached the northwest watchtower, the sun was already starting to get lower. I especially liked the roof of this building. Wanting to catch a taxi before it got dark, I pressed onward.

Bell from 1428

In the half of the wall that I walked, I saw a few bells. This bell near the Anding gate was from 1428 and was 5.6 feet (1.7 meters) high. Its rich tone once alerted people of the city.

North Gate at sunset

Just as I reached the North Gate (Anyuan), meaning Forever Harmony, the sun began to set. The flagposts, lamps, bell, and gate tower were now silhouetted against the warm glow of the sunset. It was a beautiful first trip to the Old City. With the address of my apartment written in Mandarin, a taxi driver successfully took me back to the concrete jungle of highrise apartments where I live about 25 minutes away. It was a good first adventure out.

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Roman Antonine Baths of Carthage, Tunisia 🇹🇳

The Baths of Antonine in Carthage, Tunisia, are the largest Roman baths constructed in Africa. In fact, they are one of the three largest Roman baths built anywhere. Built between 146 and 162AD, the baths are located right next to the Mediterranean Sea. The freshwater for the baths came via aqueducts from the Zaghuan mountains 60km south of Carthage. This aqueduct and the cisterns where the water was stored was a favorite site of mine, located less than 10 minutes' walk from my apartment.

Due to its close proximity to the sea, the baths (separate facilities for males and females) were located on the upper floors instead of the ground floor as is traditional. The marble capitals on the eight granite columns supporting the central dome each weighed four tons. Swimming pools were located both inside and outside the structure.

Much of what we see today is from the ground floor service area. One can still see the wood furnaces. A large portion of the masonry from the more beautiful upper floors was repurposed after the basement roof collapsed.

I especially liked the ornamental carving. This vertical piece, whose size dwarfs an adult, gives one an idea of how ornate the baths were. The Antonine Baths are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in Carthage.

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Thuburbo Majus - Ancient Roman Site

While living in Tunisia, one of the sites I visited was Thuburbo Majus. Located about 60 km southwest from Carthage on a major thoroughfare connecting Carthage to the Sahara, it is a significant Roman site. Originally a Punic town, it was founded around 27 AD by the Romans as a place where army retirees could settle. Much of the trading town was built around 150-200 AD and prospered as a center for growing grain, olives, and fruit. 

Excavations began around 1916 and again around 1925 and the 1950's. Like many Roman sites in Tunisia, there likely is much still that remains below the surface. Now, visitors to this very rural site will find sheep grazing nearby, perhaps even walking over the large mosaics still in situ. Most of the significant mosaics and baths, along with a massive head of Jupiter are now in the Bardo Museum. Despite it not being as well known as Carthage, many of the impressive pieces in the museum were from Thuburbo Majus. I visited the site several times, but found it most beautiful when the fields were green and yellow flowers abounded. 

One of the more prominent structures at Thuburbo Majus is the Capitolium. Here, a fairly intact olive press can be found. At the center of the town was the forum. Many of its columns still stand. Near the forum can be found remnants of a market, shops, and a basilica.

Read more about Thuburbo Majus. 

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Arches of a Different Name

Since I posted an image related to the "Golden Arches" from the Phillipines the other day, this post deals with a different, but also famous, arch. Here I am (around 2002), pictured sitting under the triumphal arch of Alexander Severus. Erected in 228 AD in honor of of Roman Emperor Alexander Severus, it was one of two arches at the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It functioned as one of the city gates, at the end of a road leading from Carthage to the city of Tebessa.
Through the archway we can see the site's famous Capitol, built in 166 AD.

Tunisia is amazing for its ancient history. Dougga is one of several ancient sites in this small country - very worthwhile visiting.

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Djenné-Jeno, Ancient City

Just 2km from the town of Djenné lies the ancient town of Djenné-Jeno - site of the original Djenné. Although it is difficult to see much more than some remnants of the handmade bricks of a building and tons of pottery shards, the site is the oldest known sub-saharan city - dating back to the third century BC. A highly developed society of about 10,000 inhabitants, the site was mysteriously abandoned in the 14th century. Archaeological excavations reveal a highly urbanized society with domestication of animals and iron production as early as 900 BC. Djenné-Jeno is known for its excellent rice cultivation, signature mud brick architecture, and its finely crafted sculpture, of which I purchased replicas (pictured above). 

Prior to visiting the site, we went to the Mission Culturelle, where we saw informative displays including examples of pottery, sculptures, and iron, which helped give an idea of what was discovered at the site in 1977. Although pottery shards dotted the ground at the archaeological site, it was expressly forbidden to remove any of them. Djenné-Jeno has long been a site for looting, with sculptures, pottery, and beads being some of the items taken.

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The Tunisia I know

These are the memories of Tunisia that I have - the white-washed buildings with blue doors and bougainvillea. Wandering the ancient medinas of Tunis, Sousse, and elsewhere. The clear blue skies and Mediterranean Sea. Its amazing history, as evidenced in spectacular Roman and Byzantine mosaics, coliseums, and aqueducts. Freshly harvested olives and dates. The pit dwellings of Matmata and the vast desert south. Its people, welcoming and warm, graciously serving sweet tea topped with pine nuts. While the majority of Tunisians call themselves Muslim, a much more moderate version was practiced - sometimes more tradition than anything. It was a country that had banned the burqa, with many of its women choosing Western wear and showing off their thick black hair. A favorite vacation destination for French and other Europeans, freely able to relax on the beaches of resorts in their bikinis. A country that was site to many prominent films, often serving as a safe alternative for Middle Eastern country scenes. I remember when the school added extra security measures and even had us practice safety drills, but a bigger concern for members of the ACST community that year was flooding, which affected the school several times. During the two years I was at ACST, the school doubled in size, much of it due to the African Development Bank moving its headquarters from Abidjan (Cote d'Ivoire) to Tunis to have a stable place for operating.

Ten years later, I am sitting in my apartment thousands of miles away in Seoul, Korea. The Tunisia I know looks very different from what just happened at the embassy and nearby school. From my experience, this sounds like the actions of a few radicals, representing a minority or perhaps even led on by outsiders. I pray for the safety of all my friends that still are in Tunisia and that peace, stability, and normalcy will soon return. 

These are two of my artworks, the top being an oil pastel of a scene in Sidi Bou Saïd and the lower one a color pencil drawing of a man in the medina in Sousse.

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National Museum, Phnom Penh

Our next stop was to the National Museum, located just north of the Palace. Although photography of most objects was not allowed, we did enjoy viewing the Hindu statues (some dating back to the 6th century), a statue of the leader responsible for some of the grandest structures within the Angkor period, and some post-Angkor Buddha figures. Wings of the museum opened to a central garden, complete with water gardens, tropical vegetation, and a Buddhist sculpture in the middle. Although the museum was interesting to look at and contained information in English, it would have had more impact had we come after touring Angkor Wat. 

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Sigiriya Lion

After turning around an incredibly windy corner and up more stairs, I arrived at a flat area. From here, I had a great view of the surrounding jungle as well as the gardens below. I had already climbed a lot of stairs, but I could see there were many more still to go. Against the base of the main rock were the two giant brick lion paws, remnants of the Lion from which gave the rock its name. At one time, the stairway led between the lion’s paws and up into its mouth, but the brick head fell off a long time ago, probably due to its support being constructed out of wooden beams. How imposing it must have once looked! A lot of steps were still to go. A few people motioned me to pass them in these narrow sections, making me particularly glad that I had gone up early before the crowds came.

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Sigiriya Mirror Wall

Back down the spiral staircase and continuing up the path towards the summit is the Mirror Wall. This highly polished (and protected by threat of large fine and/or imprisonment for those who touch or vandalize the surface) wall contains the graffiti inscriptions of visitors from between the 6th and 14th centuries who made their remarks about the rock & palace – and particularly the women frescoes, written in rather poetic and descriptive manners. A large number has been studied, deciphered, and published in a two-volume book. The markings also help document the evolution of the Sinhalese script and language. I’m glad someone had the patience and ability to decipher the ancient writings from modern defacing covering it.

 

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Sigiriya's Fabulous Frescoes

Partway up the steps to the summit was a spiral staircase leading to a sheltered gallery. Protected from the sun were some exquisite frescoes of partially clothed females. The jewelry, facial expression, eyes, and hand gestures were particularly well-executed. The brushstrokes were still visible, adding a more lyrical look. It is believed that these figures represent celestial nymphs –or asparas.. Out of perhaps as many as 500 portraits, only 22 remain today. How beautiful the rocks must have looked with these colorful women adorning their surface!

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Sigiriya UNESCO site, Sri Lanka - History and Gardens

History and Introduction
After a wonderful early morning breakfast buffet at the hotel, I headed to the massive rock of Sigiriya that dominated the view from the hotel swimming pool. At 7:20 AM, the temperature was still pleasant. The sun was trying to peek up over the top of the flat-topped rock jutting 200 m over the flat land of north central Sri Lanka. We drove past a large pond filled with lotus flowers. At the entrance, I showed my UNESCO Cultural Round Ticket ($50) that was also good for Polonnurawa and Anuradhapura (which I wasn’t going to visit). Meaning Lion Rock, the unique geological mass is actually the hardened magma plug of an extinct volcano.

According to legend, the palace and gardens were built by King Kasyapa (AD 477-495) who fled here after killing his father and usurping the throne. After climbing up the 1,202 stairs to the summit, I can see how he would think that building on top of the summit would be a safe location. There is also evidence that points to the area serving as an ancient Buddhist monastery, particularly in the caves. It is quite apparent from the remaining structures and gardens that the city was planned and quite sophisticated, even including sub-surface hydraulic systems. After Kasyapa’s reign, the area reverted back into being a Buddhist monastery, lasting until about the 13th or 14th century.

Moat

Gardens
Passing through the well-preserved outer moat (which still has water), one first encounters the equally well-preserved symmetrical water gardens. How beautiful it must have looked at one time, with the fountains going and well tended gardens with flowers and shrubs – all against the majestic rock. Up past a series of stairs are the boulder gardens. Some of the boulders were used as bases of buildings.

Symmetrical water gardens

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Polonnaruwa Archaeological Site - Thivanka Image House

North of that was the Lotus pond with its five concentric rings of petals and the Thivanka Image House. Inside this large structure were some exquisite frescoes of figures (including Buddha and some gods) in various states of preservation, but with its red, yellow and green colors still quite visible in places. The outside was enclosed in scaffolding, making it difficult to see the carvings of dwarfs and other figures. This restoration (including working on the roof) should help ensure that the building not only is structurally sound enough for years to come, but also protect the fragile frescoes from the elements.

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Polonnaruwa Archaeological Site - Gal Vihara

For many, the Gal Vihara is the highlight of the Polonnaruwa site. Here, one feasts their eyes on four Buddha images, carved from the massive granite rock there. The standing Buddha measures 7 m in height and is beautifully carved. Its expression is quite marked, perhaps a bit sad. The most massive sculpture is of a reclining Buddha and measures 14 m. The incorporation of the rock grains was quite remarkable. Despite the rigid hard material, there were details such as the slight indentation of the pillow made it almost seem as made of a more pliable one.

 

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Polonnaruwa Archaeological Site - Rankot Vihara

Shiva Devala 2

We then went past several Shiva Hindu temples (some still used), a dagoba, and through a jungle area with many trade stalls. Judging from the number of stalls, the city must have been quite large during its peak. Columns and mounds of foundations jutted up, struggling against the destructive trees, roots, vines, and grasses of the jungle that threatened (and many times won) visibility and preservation. It made me wonder how much more still remained, unexcavated. In the northern area, we saw the Rankot Vihara, a dagoba 54 m in height – the largest one in Polonnaruwa and 4th largest on the island. Like the ones I saw under construction in Thailand, this one had ground covered by a brick mantle and plaster. A 12th century hospital (very little remaining) contained some surgical tools at the time of excavation, bearing strong similarity to modern ones.

Rankot Vihara

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Polonnaruwa Archaeological Site - Quadrangle Section

Vatadage with Moonstone

Guardstones

After lunch, we went to the Quadrangle section. One of the main structures (and my favorite) was the vatadage. Due to its religious significance, we had to take our shoes off, making walking on the carved stone a challenging affair with the hot noon sun. In the second terrace were four entrances, each with beautifully carved guardstones on each side. Almost like a doormat (the guide said part of the function was actually to help wipe the feet), the semi-circular relief carved moonstones were quite beautiful, nicely framing the stairway up to the Buddhas at the top. One of the four Buddhas was made out of marble.

Sathmahal Prasada

Across from the vatadage was the Sathmahal Prasada, an unusual pyramidal stupa. Its style resembles those seen in northern Thailand. A few Buddha relief sculptures could be seen in the front.

60-days Tooth-relic chamber

A tooth-relic chamber, built in 60 days, was nearby, in direct line to the vatadage. It also had some guardstones and a larger Buddha statue at the far end.

Gal Pota

Off to one side was the Gal Pota, a stone book measuring 9 m x 1.5 m wide, with a thickness between 40-66cm. On it were stone inscriptions – the longest in Sri Lanka, as well as relief carvings of elephants and birds that resembled geese.

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