This past Sunday I visited Zemun. Although a municipality of Belgrade along the other side of the Danube River, Zemun has more of an Austro-Hungarian feel. Perched on a hill above Zemun is the area known as Gardoš. It is easiest to get up here following narrow cobblestone pathways and stairways - definitely much more of a pedestrian-friendly area. At the top of Gardoš is the Millennium Tower, built in 1896 over the ruins of a medieval fortress as commemoration of 1,000 years of Hungarian settlement in the region. (This was the southernmost city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire). It was one of several millennium towers built at the time within Hungary. Although in need of restoration (broken windows and covered with graffiti), the Millennium Tower (otherwise known as Janos Hunyadi) is still a popular spot in Zemun for its great overlook of the Danube and Zemun, and its adjacent restaurants. While you're up there, check out Zemun's largest graveyard.
Showing posts with label Danube River. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Danube River. Show all posts
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Gardoš - Hungary's Imprint in Belgrade
This past Sunday I visited Zemun. Although a municipality of Belgrade along the other side of the Danube River, Zemun has more of an Austro-Hungarian feel. Perched on a hill above Zemun is the area known as Gardoš. It is easiest to get up here following narrow cobblestone pathways and stairways - definitely much more of a pedestrian-friendly area. At the top of Gardoš is the Millennium Tower, built in 1896 over the ruins of a medieval fortress as commemoration of 1,000 years of Hungarian settlement in the region. (This was the southernmost city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire). It was one of several millennium towers built at the time within Hungary. Although in need of restoration (broken windows and covered with graffiti), the Millennium Tower (otherwise known as Janos Hunyadi) is still a popular spot in Zemun for its great overlook of the Danube and Zemun, and its adjacent restaurants. While you're up there, check out Zemun's largest graveyard.
Friday, January 04, 2008
Bratislava
Leaving Belgrade
My friend Olja knew that I had been wanting to visit Prague,
so when a local tour agency offered a trip during our Christmas break to the Czech capital and a brief stop in Bratislava, we took advantage of the trip and its excellent price. We would have to contend with a long bus ride and I understood that the tour guide explanations would be in Serbian, but I didn’t mind.
Bratislava
After a night bus ride, we arrived in the Slovakian capital of Bratislava around 7 am. A bit too early for the hotel, we were driven past an area containing several embassies, modern glassy homes next to more modest ones, and a former munitions manufacturing area. We stopped at the new Parliament building, next to which was a “stunning view” of the Danube. However, that view was obscured by a thick fog, which was “highly unusual” according to our local guide.
Due to its strategic location on the Danube, Bratislava has been an important center for trading since early times. For over 250 years, it was the capital of old Hungary. In 1809 Napoleon bombed Bratislava from the right bank of the Danube, not respecting the very treaty he signed with the Austrian emperor just four years earlier. When the breakup of Czechoslovakia in 1993, Bratislava became the seat of the Presidency, and the most important cultural, industrial, and scientific institutions. The largest city of Slovakia, it only has a population of 450,000.
Our local tour guide, a stocky older man wearing a thick, Russian-style fur hat, gave us a morning tour of the old city. We went past St. Martin’s Church, a Gothic structure built in 1452 and place where eleven Hungarian kings and eight royal wives were crowned. Near here was a monument to the Jews from WWII. Walking further into the old city, the tall white St. Michael’s Gate could be seen, the only preserved gate of the medieval city fortifications. After a short break to get something hot to drink and warm up (it was below freezing outside), we continued our tour. We saw the fancy yellow national
theatre, walked through the passages old city hall with its decorative green roof, and the pink Primate’s Palace. Along one street, the guide pointed out the Paparazzi bronze figure, ready to take a photo from around the corner. Nearby was The Watcher, a bronze statue of a man inconspicuously peeping from a street manhole. Kids were seen playing on and around it, rubbing his already polished golden head. A special traffic sign alerts drivers of its location, so as to not drive over the sculpture.
After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we went back into the city via tram. The city now was livelier, with more people in the streets and around the booths in the main square. Olja and I headed up to the Jewish Quarter, with its narrow streets and old buildings. We made a short stop in Clock Museum, located in the House of the Good Shepherd, a beautiful narrow yellow building from 1760-65. On each side of the cobblestone streets were colorful buildings, each connected to the other in a long row. In the balconies of apartments, I noticed Christmas trees wrapped tightly in plastic. Perhaps they wait until Christmas Eve to set them up. Nearing Castle Hill was the modest Chapel of St. Catherine with a small wooden tower, the oldest church in Bratislava but in derelict condition. The Bratislava Castle overlooking the Danube River, dominated over the city on its high hill. Like the Kalemegdan fortress in Belgrade, it was built and rebuilt many times over its long history starting around 907 AD. Features include 7-meter thick fortification walls built in 1437, a baroque-style castle building, and numerous smaller buildings. The castle, currently housing the Slovak Parliament and National Museum, is due to be renovated.
Back again at the main square, we wandered through the aisles of booths selling souvenirs, crafts, food, and drinks. The smell of grilled meat as it sizzled permeated the air. When looking at a local-looking craft item made out of straw, we were shocked to see that it too was made in China. So much for local handicrafts! To warm up, we bought a cup of hot wine and then proceeded to wander though the streets until supper. We found a restaurant that served Bryndzové haluisky, the Slovakian national dish of potato dumplings in sheep cheese sprinkled with bacon. It wasn’t as good as the ones we had in the Tatras, but it would have to suffice. Warmed up a bit again, we proceeded to do a bit more wandering through the streets, took some photos of the lit Christmas tree in the main square, observed some Peruvian-sounding flute music played by people dressed in Plains Indian costumes, and then took a tram back to the hotel.
My friend Olja knew that I had been wanting to visit Prague,
so when a local tour agency offered a trip during our Christmas break to the Czech capital and a brief stop in Bratislava, we took advantage of the trip and its excellent price. We would have to contend with a long bus ride and I understood that the tour guide explanations would be in Serbian, but I didn’t mind.Bratislava
After a night bus ride, we arrived in the Slovakian capital of Bratislava around 7 am. A bit too early for the hotel, we were driven past an area containing several embassies, modern glassy homes next to more modest ones, and a former munitions manufacturing area. We stopped at the new Parliament building, next to which was a “stunning view” of the Danube. However, that view was obscured by a thick fog, which was “highly unusual” according to our local guide.
Due to its strategic location on the Danube, Bratislava has been an important center for trading since early times. For over 250 years, it was the capital of old Hungary. In 1809 Napoleon bombed Bratislava from the right bank of the Danube, not respecting the very treaty he signed with the Austrian emperor just four years earlier. When the breakup of Czechoslovakia in 1993, Bratislava became the seat of the Presidency, and the most important cultural, industrial, and scientific institutions. The largest city of Slovakia, it only has a population of 450,000.
Our local tour guide, a stocky older man wearing a thick, Russian-style fur hat, gave us a morning tour of the old city. We went past St. Martin’s Church, a Gothic structure built in 1452 and place where eleven Hungarian kings and eight royal wives were crowned. Near here was a monument to the Jews from WWII. Walking further into the old city, the tall white St. Michael’s Gate could be seen, the only preserved gate of the medieval city fortifications. After a short break to get something hot to drink and warm up (it was below freezing outside), we continued our tour. We saw the fancy yellow national
theatre, walked through the passages old city hall with its decorative green roof, and the pink Primate’s Palace. Along one street, the guide pointed out the Paparazzi bronze figure, ready to take a photo from around the corner. Nearby was The Watcher, a bronze statue of a man inconspicuously peeping from a street manhole. Kids were seen playing on and around it, rubbing his already polished golden head. A special traffic sign alerts drivers of its location, so as to not drive over the sculpture.After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we went back into the city via tram. The city now was livelier, with more people in the streets and around the booths in the main square. Olja and I headed up to the Jewish Quarter, with its narrow streets and old buildings. We made a short stop in Clock Museum, located in the House of the Good Shepherd, a beautiful narrow yellow building from 1760-65. On each side of the cobblestone streets were colorful buildings, each connected to the other in a long row. In the balconies of apartments, I noticed Christmas trees wrapped tightly in plastic. Perhaps they wait until Christmas Eve to set them up. Nearing Castle Hill was the modest Chapel of St. Catherine with a small wooden tower, the oldest church in Bratislava but in derelict condition. The Bratislava Castle overlooking the Danube River, dominated over the city on its high hill. Like the Kalemegdan fortress in Belgrade, it was built and rebuilt many times over its long history starting around 907 AD. Features include 7-meter thick fortification walls built in 1437, a baroque-style castle building, and numerous smaller buildings. The castle, currently housing the Slovak Parliament and National Museum, is due to be renovated.
Back again at the main square, we wandered through the aisles of booths selling souvenirs, crafts, food, and drinks. The smell of grilled meat as it sizzled permeated the air. When looking at a local-looking craft item made out of straw, we were shocked to see that it too was made in China. So much for local handicrafts! To warm up, we bought a cup of hot wine and then proceeded to wander though the streets until supper. We found a restaurant that served Bryndzové haluisky, the Slovakian national dish of potato dumplings in sheep cheese sprinkled with bacon. It wasn’t as good as the ones we had in the Tatras, but it would have to suffice. Warmed up a bit again, we proceeded to do a bit more wandering through the streets, took some photos of the lit Christmas tree in the main square, observed some Peruvian-sounding flute music played by people dressed in Plains Indian costumes, and then took a tram back to the hotel.
Friday, July 06, 2007
Lepinski Vir and Djerdap Gorge
Stefanović Family Pension
As this was an ethno tour, we stayed at the homes of people. This was a great way to meet local people, eat authentic food, and find lodging in areas not often served by hotels. This family had been doing this for several years already. Their property was on a high hill overlooking the Danube. Across the river one could see Romania. A cool breeze provided welcome relief from the heat that would increase over the days. Fat chickens roamed free and goats were in pens. Fruit trees including cherries, plums, pears, and apples dotted the landscape, including the steep slope. After a mandatory shot glass of home-made rakija with honey and tall glass of elderberry juice (also domestic) we toured through the lawn full of imaginative
sculptures created by the always barefoot husband from driftwood, stumps, and branches. Lunch, attractively presented including rose petals scattered on the outdoor table, included corn bread, local cheeses including goat cheese with herbs, breaded vegetables, wild mushrooms delicately seasoned, soup, and meat.Later that afternoon, we went for a walk within Đerdap National Park nicknamed the “Roof of the World”. Emerging from the wooded area was a high meadow from which one had an excellent view of the four gorges in the area. Dotting the hill of low-growing plants were plants from which St. John’s Wort and another plant locally known for its kidney medicinal value. On the walk, we also visited an old lady tending her goats and sheep. After learning (she only spoke Romanian) that we wanted to take some photos, she desperately tried to get her goats to cooperate for some poses with her. We learned that she lived in a cottage without water or electricity and that her daughter, who left 30 years earlier, has yet to return. We also encountered an old man nearing 90 years of age (although he didn’t look nearly that old) tending a couple of cows.
Back at the pension after the walk and Lepinski Vir, we met a trio of bikers – a father, teenage son, and younger niece. They were traveling along the Danube, documenting its beauty and diversity. This was the first time I saw people in Serbia camping out in a tent. Just as we sat down for supper, the lights went out. It might have been a good thing we couldn’t see too well, as the main dish was sarmica – prepared from boiled lamb liver and lungs. In addition to the Kačamak made from corn paste, the meal was once again tasty. Stars were plentiful and only a few lights from distant tiny villages dotted the landscape.
Lepinski Vir
A short distance away from the Stefanović farm was the
archaeological site of Lepinski Vir. This site was discovered during archaeological explorations (1965-70) that proceeded the building of two dams on the Danube. At this time they found traces of a Neolithic culture dating between 8000 and 4500 BC, a complex culture perhaps one of the most advanced in all of prehistoric Europe. About a dozen settlements of the same culture have since been found, with evidence of trapezoidal huts, small sanctuaries and fireplaces in homes, and elaborate cemeteries. Stone figures of humans with large eyes and fish-like mouths (likely idols of hunters and fishermen who depended on the Danube) were found, along with jewelry, tools made of bone and stone, and tablets carved with letter-like symbols. The small museum contained some replicas of the most valuable artifacts, which are now in Belgrade’s National Museum. The site was located under a tiled weathered roof with fiberglass sides. Besides being hot, the structure made it too dark to see much, particularly since the roped areas were very limited. The poorly funded structure did this important site a great disservice.
Golubac Fortress
At the entrance to Đerdap Gorge/National Park is the fortress Golubac. We had just seen the widest part of the Danube, which looked more like a lake than a river. Now the river narrowed into what is known as the Iron Gates, which is Serbian for Đerdap. This is the largest river gorge in Europe. It was here that a fortress was built in the 14th century, becoming the most valuable fort on the Danube. Although one could see the fortress consisting of nine towers arranged above each other with an irregular base hugging the steep terrain, the view would have been even more spectacular from a boat on the Danube. Also seen were the remains of a palace near the river and a low, polygonal tower built by the Turks to strengthen the town against firearms. This part jutted into the river,
perhaps because of the dams.Like nearly all of Serbia’s important monuments, Golubac also fell to the Turks. The first time was after the battle of Kosovo in 1389, followed by 25 years back in Serbian hands, and then reverted back to the Turks in 1458. The fort was used for military purposes, but lost much of its defensive strength in the 19th century due to the rise of fire power. After taking some photos, we drove through the rather narrow gate and out to the other side of the fort.
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