Seonamsa Templestay: Daeungjeon

Located in back of the main courtyard, the temple building Daeungjeon was where we would be given some basics of temple etiquette. Typical of most Korean Buddhist temples I'd visited, the wooden shuttered windows and doors were painted in green and framed in a terra-cotta color.

Through the front opening, the large golden Buddha figure and altar was straight ahead. Most of the murals and decorations on the exterior had faded away, coloration faintly visible in some areas and others such as the dragons on either side of the main sign in Chinese lettering revealing the original wood coloring.

Two moktaks (wooden handbells) and a metal handbell were carefully arranged on a small table in front of the main altar. On each side of the large seated Buddha statue were silk lotus floral arrangements. A large mural framed the area behind the statue.

The ceiling of the temple was transformed into a play area for several dragons. Their long, snake-like bodies formed from upper beams slithered towards the Buddha. The heads, with bulging eyes, furrowed brows, and open mouths (revealing the ball inside), appeared to be looking right at the rather impervious-looking Buddha. Their ornamental tails protruded from another wall. Although also suffering from some fading and damage, the interior ceiling and wall decorations were in much better state of preservation than those on the outside. 

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Water Clock at Deoksugung Palace

Until I did a little reading, I mistook these two bronze bronze relief pieces at Deoksugung Palace as sculptures. Instead, these national treasures are part of a water clock, constructed in 1536 and used by the royalty to mark the standard time of the kingdom. Elaborate dragons, believed to inhabit ponds and lakes of South East Asia, encircle the cylinders. In addition to the two original cylinders, three bronze bowls of the clock also remain. You can read more about the clepsydra-style water clock on Wikipedia.

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Dancing with the Dragon Stick

Young people perform with carved dragon sticks as part of the Confucian Royal Ancestral Rite at the Jongmyo Shrine in Soul. This rite has been designated as the Important Heritage Cultural Heritage No. 56 as well as the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity UNESCO list.

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Sungnyemun Gate - Finished at Last

Ever since the 2008 arson fire that destroyed the wooden portion of Seoul's landmark, the nation has been anxiously anticipating the re-opening of the Sungnyemun Gate. Also known as the Namdaemun Gate due to its proximity with the famous market located nearby, this National Treasure #1 was one of eight gates that comprised the fortress walls originally surrounding the capital of the Joseon Dynasty. Originally constructed in 1398, it was rebuilt in 1447, the Sungnyemun Gate, meaning "Gate of Exalted Ceremonies," was used to welcome foreign emissaries as well as to keep out Siberian Tigers. During the early 20th century, the Japanese colonialists demolished the fortress walls surrounding the gate to ease traffic problems. During the Korean war, the gate was heavily damaged and was restored in 1963. Further renovations were completed just two years prior to the arson.

Adherence to the original colors, carvings, and designs was practiced in reconstruction of the wooden structure. Over 22,000 ceramic roof tiles, fired in a traditional kiln were also included to keep the gate as authentic as possible. In early May, the public opening ceremony was held.

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Seoul Lotus Lantern Parade; Traditional with the Modern

Interspersed amongst the parade members wielding small lanterns and others banging drums were the large floats. Although traditional in theme, the sculpted hanji paper dragons, Buddhas, pagodas, haetae beasts, and elephants were also distinctively modern. Some of the exceptionally well-crafted pieces were animatronics; Dragons breathed out flames, rhinos appeared to walk, and an elephants moved their articulated trunks in and out. Truly magical. 

The next day, I saw some of the floats near the temple. Without illumination and the contrast of the night sky, they were still beautiful, but lacked the magic I had seen just hours before.  

See more floats from the Seoul 2013 Lotus Lantern Parade on my Flickr site. 

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Don't forget to look up!

Within the Bulguksa complex are many halls and pavilions. Although faded, the carvings and paintings found on the eaves, below the roof, and the upper part of the walls reveal exceptional beauty. Scenes of Buddha’s life, mythological creatures, and scenes from the four seasons could be found. Dragons and cranes were popular throughout, some engaging with people and others going solo. Sculpted heads of the dragons seemed to burst forth from the temple carvings, with their pearly white teeth clenching orbs, fish, and other objects. The decorative paintings on the eaves were particularly intricate, but as already mentioned, were fading or peeling. It would take some incredibly skilled artists to match the quality of designs and restore these paintings to their former glory. 

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Temple Greeters of Bulguksa

Once over the bridge and up some long stairs, we passed through an entry gate. Emerging from the shadows of the gate’s interior, several massive sculpted figures greeted us. One had his hand firmly gripped around a baby dragon; another played a lute-like instrument. With a layer of dust accumulating on their shoulder, wrinkled noses, and hair, they felt slightly less menacing. 

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