Showing posts with label Laoag. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laoag. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 16, 2016

Hanging out with a Living Legend

Knowing how eager my colleague and I were to visit the abel weaving studio, our Laoag hostesses patiently inquired en-route and willingly drove down narrow lanes until we arrived in the tiny town of Pinili. Even though it was early evening, the open-aire studio still was active. A framed poster indicated that we indeed were at the correct place. This was the weaving studio of Magdalena Gamayo, designated as a National Living Treasure. Through the tutelage of Magdalena, the complex, high-quality abel weaving techniques have been preserved for the next generation.

Amongst the weavers was a diminutive figure - none other than Magdalena Gamayo herself. Through the translation of our Laoag hostess, I learned that Magdalena, now aged 93, no longer weaves but still is teaching. She learned weaving from her aunt around the age of 16. Magdalena continued to refine her skills, learning new abel weaving techniques and even developing new designs. Her dedication to the craft, renowned quality, and passion for preserving the traditional abel technique prompted the national honor. What a treat to meet her.

Weaving designs of a high quality were seen at the different looms. A woman with grey hair demonstrated the abel weaving process. Magdalena explained that it may take five days to warp the loom. Both warping and weaving must be done precisely, as an error preventing the intended pattern to emerge might not be immediately noticeable. A skilled weaver could achieve about 2-3 yards in eight hours.


She also took a few spins for us on the humble-looking spinning wheel. I was surprised that such a rickety-looking contraption could work, but it did.
With the sun quickly disappearing, it was time to leave this little village and check into our hotel in Vigan. 

Saturday, August 06, 2016

The Brickmakers of San Nicolas

On our way to the weavers, our Laoag friends took us to the heritage town of San Nicolas. The area is known for its highly plastic Bantog clay, which is transformed into Banga clay pots, tiles, well braces, and bricks. A special type of molding, known locally as Damili, is utilized. This woman made one brick at a time, pounding the clay with a wooden paddle and then scraping off excess clay around a clamped metal mold.  

I like the interplay of light, shadow, and pattern made on these drying bricks.

All packaged up and ready to go!

We also watched a woman prepare some of the clay for pottery. Using just her hands, she mixed the raw clay with the sandy mixture, wedging and kneading it together on the small wooden board.


Wednesday, August 03, 2016

Get your Frog Purse (or Dried Fish)

More market photos, this time from Laoag in the Philippines. Aside from the common items such as poultry, fish, and Philippine sausages, one item caught my eye - purses made from frogs. Unique, but not quite my thing. With their leathery, bumpy skin, bulging eyes, and those long legs, they would make an interesting conversation piece. I decided to save my backpack space for textiles.



Gotta love the colorful fresh fruit!
Nicely arranged display of dried fish and eggs


Tuesday, July 26, 2016

Sinking Bell Tower

One of Laoag's famous monuments is known as the Sinking Bell Tower. Built around 1707 by Augustinians after an earthquake, it is one of the oldest and most massive bell towers in the Philippines. Standing at 45 meters ( feet) tall, the structure is of the earthquake baroque style, constructed of locally manufactured bricks, joined with molasses and plastered with lime stucco. The massive base whose foundation is 90 meters (300 ft) supports its graduated upper tiers and is topped with a dome and cross. 

Like other earthquake-proof baroque style buildings, the tower has sturdy buttresses and is separate from St. William's Cathedral, which is actually 85 meters (279 ft) away. 


Built on sandy soil, the tower has been sinking at a rate of 2.5 cm (one inch) per year, thus lending its landmark name. At one time, a horse-mounted rider could once enter the vaulted door quite easily; now even a person of ordinary height would have to stoop. Despite its sinking status, the tower still performs its function of calling its Catholic members to mass via massive bells. 
When I visited the Ilocos Norte town, entry inside the tower was not permitted.

Friday, July 08, 2016

Sandboarding down the La Paz Sand Dunes

On my tour of Laoag, my guest house friends took us to the La Paz Sand Dunes. This stretch of coastal sand dunes is an easy 15 minute drive outside of Laoag and spans for about 85 square km (52 miles) along the South China Sea. It is a popular site for films, both Philippine movies and Hollywood. Mad Max and Born on the Fourth of July both shot scenes in this coastal desert. 
Sand dunes can reach up to 90 meters (295 ft) in height, but are constantly changing due to variations in wind, currents, weather, sedimentation, and types of vegetation. 

In one area, adults and kids were sliding down the dunes on boards. It hearkened me back to my snow tobogganing and sled riding days on the glacially formed hills on the family farm in Wisconsin.

Jeeps and 4x4 vehicles could also be seen driving over the dunes.


Thursday, June 23, 2016

A Night at the Goatcienda

Our Philippines spring break trip started with a flight from Manila to Laoag. We arrived on time and while we were waiting for the owners of the bed & breakfast place to pick us up, decided to purchase a SIM card for a week's worth of service at around $10. Due to a blockage of the town's bridge for a Good Friday procession, it took around 90 minutes (instead of the normal 15 minutes) before the truck was able to pull up to the small airport. Hungry, the friendly family took us downtown to an open market area, where we were treated to fluorescent orange empanadas and sugary drinks.
Although simply furnished, the spacious room had modern comforts such as a shower, internet, and AC. The next morning I awoke early and was greeted by the rural landscape surrounding the Goatcienda. The upper balcony opening framed a magenta bougainvillea and other tropical plants.
A cool breeze was refreshing in the morning. Roosters crowed, accentuated by the barking of some dogs.

The friendly staff at the Goatcienda prepared a hearty breakfast with organic food from their small farm, along with freshly-ground coffee. 
The owner, an American who married a Filipino, gave us a tour of the Permaculture farm. He introduced us to his pigs, dogs, cats, and roosters. 

Even the little piglets were friendly.

After our tour, we were treated to a tour of Laoag.