Merry CHRISTmas

From the streets of Pondicherry to the coconut groves of Kerala, some in India are celebrating the most important birthday recorded in human history. No, not a Bollywood (or Kollywood) movie star, and not even that of a politician. It is someone who grew up in very humble circumstances - much like the village huts of the India of today. This individual was Jesus -or Immanuel, which means God with us. I pray that the Christians of India will hold fast to the true reason for Christmas - the birth of our Savior. Happy birthday, Jesus! 

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Immaculate Conception Church, Christmas Eve

In true Indian fashion, even the churches are lit up for festivities. Here we see the Immaculate Conception Church in Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu.

Merry Christmas to all!

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Preparing for Christmas

A Christmas star illuminated in front of a Christian home in Pondicherry.

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Christmas Decorations in Tamil Nadu

Going through Chennai and other parts of Tamil Nadu at this time of year, one can find decorative stars illuminated at night. These are typically hung in front of homes and businesses of Christians (although I'm sure others have gotten into the decorating spirit as well). I have seen fake trees for sale, but they look, well, "made in China-ish." The stars are rather pretty though.

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Happy 68th, India!

Today marks the 68th anniversary of India's independence from the British colonialism. I planned on going and taking some photographs today, but alas it is raining. This is a memorial statue of Gandhi, located in Pondicherry  (south of Chennai). Like everywhere, where there is a climbing opportunity, there kids will be.

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Construction Crew

Summer is a peak construction season for Wisconsin. During this time, orange barrels, cement trucks, yellow vests and hardhats, tattooed muscled arms, and cranes are common. Not so in India. Here, scaffolding is made from bamboo or narrow rickety poles. Construction crews consist of men wearing lungis and sari-clad women - both of which typically are barefoot, or perhaps wearing flip flops. The only "hat" worn is a wrap of cloth, designed to balance loads of gravel/cement and to soak up some of the incessant sweat. 

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Driving through Rural Tamil Nadu

After a quick breakfast at the hotel (the workers were still sleeping in on the restaurant floor when we entered), we began our day of visiting of several Hindu temples. Once out of Pondicherry, things became very rural. The road was narrow, making passing difficult and travel time longer. Some of the busses leaned precariously to one side, making it appear as though they could tip at any moment. Since the road was shared by many slow-moving vehicles (including bicycles, carts, tractors, large loaded trucks, etc.), passing was very common. Although there were many “close shaves” due to the large amount of passing (and at the last minute getting back in the proper lane), it was amazing that we never saw any accidents occur. Our driver calmly took all traffic engagements in stride, never exhibiting “road rage” or contempt over drivers who took unnecessary risks or butted in line.

Village Life
Throughout the day we would pass through many small towns and villages, each bustling with life and commerce. Piles of rope made from coconut fibers were coiled next to small shacks ready to be sold. Coffee stands abounded, gathering a large number of regular patrons who congregated and used it as an opportunity to chat and catch up on the latest news. Bollywood and Kollywood posters were plastered over walls. Painted sides of buildings and walls advertised underwear, cement, silk saris, and more. Some buildings were constructed with cement sides and thatched roofs. Women braided each other’s hair (or picked out lice) alongside the road. Children ran out of thatched huts wearing only a top. Colorful kolams decorated the entryways to homes and businesses. Women pounded and rung cloth over the washing stones, laying out the laundry on the grass, over walls, fences, or over string. Chilies lay drying in the sun, carefully arranged on a piece of cloth. Cows ambled about, eating garbage, sitting on the road, or pausing wherever they felt like it. When the road paralleled a river, we could see people using the river to bathe, wash clothes, clean pots & pans, and wash their hair. Long steps leading down to the river right next to the homes indicated that in these villages, such rituals were a part of daily life.

Rice Bowl
This area of Tamil Nadu is known as the “rice bowl.” Indeed, the flat land is perfectly suited for rice growing, provided that ample rain and irrigation is available. Palm trees lined some fields. Others were merely broken up with raised areas. Some fields were completely flooded, with the water nearly extending to buildings. I shuddered to think of how bountiful mosquitoes must be in these homes! Pigs seemed to enjoy themselves in the paddies. Men could be seen plowing fields with a tractor having specially designed wheels for the very wet soil. Others used cattle to do the job.
Hungry and needing to stretch our legs, we stopped at a local “hotel” (which is what they call places that just serve food) for a quick meal. It served a typical South Indian meal on a banana leaf. Workers came around with buckets and heaped on large amounts of rice, idli, vadas (fried lentil doughnuts), sambhar, and chutneys. The food was tasty and filling. Thankfully my two Serbian friends were adventurous and not only tried the food, but enjoyed the meal. At such places, the meal of the day (almost always vegetarian) is the only thing they serve! To be on the safe side, we avoided the poured water and instead purchased bottled water. Sharing a bottle of water, the meals typically cost us $1 or less.

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Pondicherry - Christmas Day

Hungry after our visit to Auroville, we had the driver drop us off at La Terrace restaurant in Pondicherry. Knowing that most of the meals we would have on the trip would likely be Indian, I chose to order a pizza. Refreshed once again, we walked along Pondicherry’s seafront. Closer to the road, a promenade was available. Or, one could walk on the sand. Waves crashed up onto the large black rectangular rocks, occasionally sending fine saltwater sprays up by us. Ice cream vendors with their pink bicycle-style carts dotted the sand, as did fruit sellers, those selling cotton candy, legumes, and even pinwheels. Health-conscious eaters could even buy peeled cucumbers from a sari-clad woman. People were strolling along, some holding hands. One young couple sat quite intimately and close to each other near the top of the rock embankment – a scene not very common in South India. Women in saris & jasmine in their hair seemed mesmerized by the waves. Kids eagerly licked their ice cream bars, only to find it dripping down on the sand moments later. About halfway down was the black Gandhi memorial statue. Kids climbed up the marble ramp to reach the statue, climbing over its feet, posing by the statue, and then sliding down the ramp.

From there, we headed into the French Quarter and proceeded towards the Ashram. Seeing the long lines, we decided to skip that visit. We walked to the gate of the paper factory, but found that it was closed as it was Christmas. Nearby vendors were selling clay figures, ghee lamps, and small clay bowls in carts. Racks of clothing made for export but perhaps with slight imperfections were being sold at cheap prices. Trying on the clothing wasn’t possible, but the seller with a tape measure could give you a fairly good idea if it would fit. Back on the main streets of the Indian section, we saw men ironing clothes, others making fried foods, selling bananas, and people generally going about their daily chores. Right across the street from the Immaculate Conception church, women set up brightly painted nativity scene figures for sale.

That evening, we once again went out for a walk. Lights illuminated the several churches in the town. Large colorful stars cast tinted light on carved household doors revealing Christian symbols. Others were placed in front of businesses, hotels, etc. Several of the churches were going to hold midnight Mass (albeit in Tamil), but already there were many people inside, quietly meditating or going up to the statues of flower-adorned Mary or Jesus. Huge sprays of flowers adorned the altar area. Outside one church, the figure of baby Jesus was now in its cradle, signifying that Christ was now born. Walking past a smaller church, we noticed that there were events going on in its front area. We were invited to come in and watch the festivities. First, some young men tried their hand at “hit the pot,” in which the blindfolded, spun-around individual attempted to use the stick to locate and break the clay pot hung from a high string. Only a short amount of time was given and only one strike allowed. One man did succeed at hitting the pot and was rewarded by getting wet from the water-filled pot. Giggling and laughs filled the air. After that two rounds of “musical chairs” were played, first by women aged 35 and up and then by the men. After some women were finally cajoled to come over and participate, it was quite amusing to see how some acted like shy schoolgirls as they attempted to scramble for a chair while in their saris and then giggle when eliminated. After a tasty treat at a small chocolate shop, we headed back to the hotel and enjoyed a movie and chatted.

See more photos of Pondicherry on my Flickr page

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Auroville

After complimentary Indian breakfast, we drive to Auroville, located about 12 km north of Pondicherry. An experimental township in communal, ecological, and spiritual living, Auroville attracts people around the world. Currently there about 2,000 people from over 40 countries living and working in this “New Age” metropolis. It was founded in 1968 by Mirra Alfassa (known as “The Mother” around the region), who, along with Sri Aurobindo, believed that human evolution was not yet finished and that a “supramental consciousness” could be achieved by living in such a focused community.

En route to Auroville, we drove through tree canopied narrow lanes, some of which were dirt roads. We passed by women carrying bundles of twigs, men hauling large cartloads of wood or grasses pulled by hitched cows. Thatched huts and cement buildings were intermingled. Along the way, we passed by stores with brightly patterned “hippie” type clothing, Ali-Baba pants, colorful bags, and other textile crafts of India out on display. For those hungry for pizza, plenty of restaurants also indicated they specialized in this. Other signs pointed to pottery and crafts endeavors. Many of the shops included “Auro” in their name, indicating that we indeed were close to this alternative community.

After watching the mandatory short video introduction to Auroville and its vision, we received a free pass to visit the Matrimandir area. Along the 1 km tree-lined path, we saw some beautiful beds of flowers, many planted trees, a huge 100-year old banyan tree, anthills, and other signs of nature. Solar panels in an open area revealed one of many environmental projects Auroville was undertaking. Considering that the area once was rather barren and devoid of many trees, it was amazing to see how the efforts of Auroville volunteers have transformed the area into one of lushness and productivity. A sign revealed that over 1.5 million trees were planted, 500 alternative energy installations set up, numerous schools for Auroville residents established as well as others for the nearby community, clinics, and outreach centers. It was quite evident that Auroville was giving back to the local community and making the entire area a better place.

From the end of the path, we had a good view of the Matrimandir, a gold-colored spherical structure described by some as a golf ball. To me, it looked like the toy that has suction cups all over it. Men were mowing the perfectly manicured lawn, some using push mowers and others using riding ones. Some of the twelve planned gardens were underway, but the project was not completed. As our visit did not permit us to go closer and enter the structure, we had to rely on the images included in the video that described the interior as an air-conditioned white marble meditation room with a spiraling ramp leading up to the center with a 70 cm crystal ball glowing as sunlight hit it.

Feeling at peace, we headed back to the main buildings and peeked inside some of the shops & boutiques. For those who like incense, candles, bulky jewelry, artsy clothing, and paper lantern coverings for lights, it was a great place to buy – albeit at boutique prices.

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Pondicherry - Christmas Eve

Late that afternoon we arrived in Pondicherry. We began exploring the streets of the town, first paying a visit to Lakshmi the elephant at the temple. We walked along bustling MG Road with its many shoppers right up to its end where we reached Sacred Heart Church. The air was one of anticipation, excitedly making final preparations for the celebration of the Birth of Christ. Lights were strung up outside. Both the exterior and interior were illuminated. Large bouquets of flowers filled the altar. Inquiring about services, we were told that Mass would be performed in Tamil at midnight.

After supper including a lassi at the restaurant I had visited on my last excursion to Pondy, we headed into the quieter French Quarter. Colored kolams, some with a Christmas message were in front of a few places. Large colorful stars illuminated the doorways of many homes and businesses. Ahead of us, the Immaculate Conception Church glowed in the clear dark sky, all lit up for Christmas. Here too they were preparing for midnight Mass. Music was playing. In the courtyard of the church was a Nativity scene illuminated by nearby candles. The manger was empty, with the figure of Jesus to be added on Christmas Day. We entered a grocery store to buy water and were greeted by a Santa with plastic mask handing out inexpensive chocolate. For entertainment that evening, we watched The Muppet Christmas Carol DVD on my computer. Our first of many days of adventure had now drawn to a close.

See more photos of Pondicherry on my Flickr page

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