Driving through Rural Tamil Nadu

After a quick breakfast at the hotel (the workers were still sleeping in on the restaurant floor when we entered), we began our day of visiting of several Hindu temples. Once out of Pondicherry, things became very rural. The road was narrow, making passing difficult and travel time longer. Some of the busses leaned precariously to one side, making it appear as though they could tip at any moment. Since the road was shared by many slow-moving vehicles (including bicycles, carts, tractors, large loaded trucks, etc.), passing was very common. Although there were many “close shaves” due to the large amount of passing (and at the last minute getting back in the proper lane), it was amazing that we never saw any accidents occur. Our driver calmly took all traffic engagements in stride, never exhibiting “road rage” or contempt over drivers who took unnecessary risks or butted in line.

Village Life
Throughout the day we would pass through many small towns and villages, each bustling with life and commerce. Piles of rope made from coconut fibers were coiled next to small shacks ready to be sold. Coffee stands abounded, gathering a large number of regular patrons who congregated and used it as an opportunity to chat and catch up on the latest news. Bollywood and Kollywood posters were plastered over walls. Painted sides of buildings and walls advertised underwear, cement, silk saris, and more. Some buildings were constructed with cement sides and thatched roofs. Women braided each other’s hair (or picked out lice) alongside the road. Children ran out of thatched huts wearing only a top. Colorful kolams decorated the entryways to homes and businesses. Women pounded and rung cloth over the washing stones, laying out the laundry on the grass, over walls, fences, or over string. Chilies lay drying in the sun, carefully arranged on a piece of cloth. Cows ambled about, eating garbage, sitting on the road, or pausing wherever they felt like it. When the road paralleled a river, we could see people using the river to bathe, wash clothes, clean pots & pans, and wash their hair. Long steps leading down to the river right next to the homes indicated that in these villages, such rituals were a part of daily life.

Rice Bowl
This area of Tamil Nadu is known as the “rice bowl.” Indeed, the flat land is perfectly suited for rice growing, provided that ample rain and irrigation is available. Palm trees lined some fields. Others were merely broken up with raised areas. Some fields were completely flooded, with the water nearly extending to buildings. I shuddered to think of how bountiful mosquitoes must be in these homes! Pigs seemed to enjoy themselves in the paddies. Men could be seen plowing fields with a tractor having specially designed wheels for the very wet soil. Others used cattle to do the job.
Hungry and needing to stretch our legs, we stopped at a local “hotel” (which is what they call places that just serve food) for a quick meal. It served a typical South Indian meal on a banana leaf. Workers came around with buckets and heaped on large amounts of rice, idli, vadas (fried lentil doughnuts), sambhar, and chutneys. The food was tasty and filling. Thankfully my two Serbian friends were adventurous and not only tried the food, but enjoyed the meal. At such places, the meal of the day (almost always vegetarian) is the only thing they serve! To be on the safe side, we avoided the poured water and instead purchased bottled water. Sharing a bottle of water, the meals typically cost us $1 or less.

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