Trichy and Srirangam

Trichy
After eating breakfast at a local “hotel” that served Idlies, we drove to Trichy’s main site – the Rock Fort. Perching dramatically on a towering rock rising 83 m (272 ft) above the otherwise flat terrain is the fort, originally made by the Nayakas of neighboring Madurai who made Trichy their second capital in the 16th and 17th centuries. A Shiva temple was constructed at the same time. Very little of the original fortress remains. It played an important part in the Carnatic wars and also when the British came to the area. For those who ascend the 344 steps hewn out of rock, a panoramic view of the city and surround area awaits them. With our time short and a fair amount of driving today, we decided to skip the stair climbing and instead visit Srirangam.

Srirangam
Located 6 km north of Trichy is the Ranganathaswamy Temple at Srirangam, one of the most revered Vishnu shrines in South India. The island on which the temple complex is situated is formed by the Kaveri and Kollidam rivers, which, according to Hindu legend, symbolizes the transcendence of Vishnu. Unlike the temple complexes in other towns, this one seemed to engulf the entire city. In fact, it covers a total of 148 acres. My DK India guidebook used Srirangam as the diagram illustration for a South India temple town. While walking to the first gateway, we passed by a man who was making white chalk circles by thumping a loosely woven basket on the ground. I had seen these circles around the temple near my apartment in Chennai, particularly during special events. We reached the first gateway, topped by an immense and heavily carved gopura. It leads to the outermost courtyard, the latest of seven built between the 5th and 17th centuries. Although colorful, it lacked the profusion of sculptures I had normally associated with South Indian gopura. Completed in 1987, it largely replaced the original one that was mostly destroyed by the Delhi armies in 1313. Once inside, the bustle of a temple community was immediately sensed. Stalls sold various items for pujas including greens, coconuts, and fresh flower garlands. Other stalls sold food, souvenirs, or household items. Locals were going about their daily chores and shopping routines. Devotees with the telltale “V and Y” marks on their foreheads made their way towards the next series of gopura. Cotton candy sellers carried their goods on a stick, the bright pink sticking out in the crowd. We made our way up to the entrance of the fourth courtyard, which required those wishing to enter to remove their footwear. I would have loved to have stayed longer and explored, but it was felt that it would be prudent to move on in order to reach Ooty at a decent time. Perhaps I’ll come back and explore Srirangam properly.

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