Through England and France at the Centennial Gardens

The Allen Centennial Gardens contains several areas, each with their distinct look. In one section, there was a pond, complete with waterlilies and a small wooden bridge, which temporarily transported me to Monet's gardens in Giverny or the Taikobashi Bridge of Dazaifu. It did have some cattails and milkweed, which reminded me that I was indeed in Wisconsin.

Beyond a high hedge was a European-style garden, complete with manicured shaped hedges and sculptures.

With some tweaking on the gazebo, I could have been at the Garden of the Morning Calm near Seoul.

It was fun watching the koi and other fish swim in schools. Such a common sight in Asian gardens.

All in all, a beautiful place to enjoy on a Sunday afternoon!

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Knitted Caps for the Lost Ones

While working on a travel book, I did a little online research on some statues I had seen at several temples in Japan. The red knitted caps on the figures, particularly little children, had caught my eye. These are known as Jizo statues, and are found in the temple courtyards. In the mizuko kuyō (literally meaning "water fetus," ceremony, special memorial services are conducted for families that have lost a child due to miscarriage, stillbirth, or abortion.

A bib or necklace is first made, followed by some chants to Jizo, the bodhisattva who protects children.  The ceremony is conducted by a Buddhist priest and may be done to comfort the mourning parents or the soul of the dead child, address guilt from an abortion, or even out of fear of retribution from a vengeful spirit. 

Outside of Japan, different forms of the practice have also emerged. It can be particularly difficult for a family who has lost a child before it has been born, as modern societies often don't address this loss. While the grieving families will never be able to replace the child through a ceremony or any other action, formal acknowledgement and a place/method to mourn can be very therapeutic. 

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A Two Day Journey Around the World

This afternoon, I went to the Seoul Friendship Fair. Held since 1996,  this fair is celebrates the sister cities of Seoul from various places around the world. Considering my love of cultures, the lure of traditional music, costumes, as well as traditional food and handicrafts was too much to pass up. For a few hours in the afternoon, I sat on the grass by Seoul City Hall in the bright May sunshine and soaked up not only sun rays, but some wonderful performances.

Belarus
Their costume and singing reminded me of some of the performances I saw in Serbia. Some songs were very happy and one was more somber. The accordion player was very energetic and the roh player was able to get a variety of tones out of the animal horn.

Japan

The Shamisen player from Japan played a few lively, energetic pieces. Two puppeteers also performed a few skits, including one with a lion and some butterflies. The lion reminded me of a larger version seen in some Korean performances.

Lion and human marionettes manipulated by a skilled Japanese puppeteer

Uzbekistan

As there was no shade on this very sunny day, I didn't want to push being too long out in the sun. However, when I saw the beautiful costumes from Tashkent, I decided to stick it out a bit longer. We had to wait for the drumset and other instruments to be assembled and set up, but it was worth it. A clarinet player myself, it was fun to hear the different tones and melodies produced from such common instruments. The male singer was both forceful and tender. The dancers, however, stole the show. In the four or five pieces, different costumes were worn for each one. The dancing and music had a more Middle Eastern feel to it. The dancers were very particular with their hand and arm positions, and their twirling and footwork was great. Imagine twirling and dancing in high heels! 

Each of the dancers had their hair in long braids, which twirled like ribbons as they spun around.

It was an enjoyable afternoon at yet another Seoul festival! #visitseoul

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The Resiliency of Bamboo

As I walked through the temple grounds, the snow-laden bamboo branches captured my attention. Prior to living in Asia, I had associated bamboo with growing in tropical places, not also in those that received snow. Yet even in heavy snowfalls, the bamboo proves resilient. In Daoism philosophy (present in Korea and China), bamboo is considered a symbol of longevity, flexibility, and durability. In Japan, the bamboo plant is revered for the same attributes.  Although bamboo can bend quite deeply under the heavy pressure of snow (and even look as if it will break), the bamboo proves resilient, snapping back upright in defiance.

When challenges and adversity come our way, perhaps we could take some lessons from the bamboo. These slender stalks have a higher tensile strength than steel. I doubt that even the massive trees of the Pacific Northwest can match that. Although we may not be the biggest, wealthiest, smartest, most popular, or showiest person on the block, Christ has made us like bamboo. We may sway deeply in the wind or bend rather severely, but if we hold steadfast in our faith in God, we will not break. As Philippians 4:13 reads, "I can do all things through Him who give me strength."

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Blooms on the Grounds

Although the buildings at Changgyeonggung Palace are not that impressive (many were destroyed by the Japanese during unsuccessful invasions and later during colonial rule), this Seoul palace does have some pretty grounds. I find it to the be the prettiest in spring when the azaleas are in bloom. 

More azaleas on the path leading up to the glass house beyond Chundangji Pond

Spring abounds just beyond the Chundangji Pond.

Devoid of any buildings (Japanese demolished the royal carriages & livery stable area to make space for a zoo stable), the Gwolnaegaksa area now contains many tall bushes and trees. Fuchsia, pink and magenta were the colors of the day.

I love the twisted juniper tree, contrasting with the blooms and brick wall.

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Red Around the Roundabout: Melaka's Dutch Square

Easily the most recognizable section of Melaka, this red façade historical section is a favorite gathering place. With its town hall (Stadhuys -built in 1650 and is the oldest surviving Dutch building in the East), church, market square and a school, visitors are are temporarily transported to a typical old European town. According to our tour guide (I went on a free tour provided by the Melaka State Government whose tourism center is right next to the square) it was Christ Church (center building, above) that was given this salmon color in order to match the original pinkish bricks that were showing through the whitewashed exterior. It also helped cover the reddish soil that splashed against the building during the prevalent tropical rains. Another story stated that the practical British repainted it the salmon color to hide the red from the unsightly habit of spitting chewed betel nuts. (Having traveled in India, I can attest to the ugly marring of buildings from betel nut spitting).   Other heritage buildings were then repainted to match.

Our tour guide eagerly pointed out the large windows so typical of Dutch architecture, which opened outward and louvered to provide ventilation. On the Stadhuys building as pictured on the right side), the black metal pieces helped support the beam areas. 

When the original clock on the clock tower ceased functioning, a replacement from England was sought but supposedly not available. Locals were not happy with getting a Japanese one, but at least the clock is up and running.

The figures in the roundabout retell the legend of Melaka where the Hindu founder saw a dog being kicked into the river there by white strong mouse deer.

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Cemetery of the Kuroda

Off in one corner of the Tochoji Temple in the welcoming shade of some large trees was a cemetery. Designated a historical and cultural site, the cemetery dates back to the founding of the temple in 806 AD. It is here that the second, third, and eighth lords of the Kuroda family from Edo period are buried. The shapes of the structures, with their rounded tops, bulbous mid-section, and outward-turning portions looked a bit figurative to me.

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Not your College Ramen

For our evening meal in Fukuoka, several in our group chose to go to the 5th floor of a mall where all the restaurants there focused on different ramen specialities. This would not be your cheap college meal. 

In front of the particular restaurant we choose, each person tapped the screen to select their desired ramen dish and inserted the correct amount of yen. Ticket receipt in hand, we gave the receipt to the waiter. I would have to say, it was quite tasty!

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Hakata Gion Yamakasa

Amongst the neutral colors of the Kushida Shinto Shrine in Fukuoka, this colorful structure caught my attention.

Standing around 10 meters, the Hakata Gion is one of twelve Yamakasa scattered throughout the city. They are an integral part of a festival said to have originated in the 13th century in attempts to secure protection against the plague. Each July, seven portable (but tall) Yamakasa are carried five kilometers through the city to the Kushida Shrine. With the exception of the ones presently displayed at Kushida, both the portable and non-portable ones are destroyed after the festival. 

The brightly painted figures and ornaments are created by traditional Hakata puppet makers. Inspiration comes from history and myths.

The image above, with its  strong female figure, tiger, and grimacing male figure reminded me of the  Kali Puja displays I saw in Kolkata, India. No string of heads here, but plenty of flamboyant emotion. 

Kali Puja display (detail)

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Kurokawa Onsen Village

As part of the trip to Japan, our group visited Kurokawa Onsen. This picturesque town has 24 hot springs for its visitors to enjoy. Scattered around the town, the baths could be found along the river, within the central part of town, further along in the woods, and even in a cave. Rather than be "cookie cutter" settings, each hot spring location had unique features - such as rocky pools, wooden tubs, outdoor secluded setting, facing the mountain, and more. 

Most in our group chose to do the 1,200 yen package, which allowed a visit to 3 hot spring locations. The hot springs all were to have relaxing effects and skin benefits, but the mineral contents of certain ones were said to help treat specific illnesses and conditions. At a temperature between 40°C and 42°C, the springs felt good, but I couldn't stay in that long before it got a bit much. The ones my friends and I chose to go to were smaller and overall felt a bit more intimate. The cave location was very steamy and quite a few nooks & crannies - a great way to get acclimated to the experience. A few had mixed baths, but we didn't feel that adventurous. 

A very unique experience, I would have to say it was quite enjoyable. The time was relaxing, but went rather quickly. After an equally enjoyable lunch (which also served horse meat and ice cream floats), our time was done. Our next destination: Fukuoka.

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Ice Cream at the Temple

Up and ready with lots of time to spare before breakfast was served, I joined a few others for an early walk. A small tree in the clearing glowed with its early autumn warmth in the early morning rays. A multi-lingual sign indicated that Kongohoji Buddhist temple was just up a short gravel driveway.     

A woman who had been sweeping came to greet us. Although she spoke to us in Japanese, it was clear that she wanted us to follow her. After following her through a few rooms of the contemporary building, she slid a door open and welcomed us to come into the worship room. Each of us was given a candle to light and place before the altar.  

Back in the entry room, the woman gestured for us to sit around the table. She then proudly gave each of us a small soft-serve ice cream. My first at a Buddhist temple. Knowing we had to get going in order to be back at the hotel in time for breakfast, we thanked the woman for her hospitality. What a great start to another beautiful day in Japan.

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Of Buddhist Markers and Suphuric Haze

With the sulphuric gases canceling a cable car ride to the main crater at Mount Aso, I did some walking around the mountain at a lower level. Even at this elevation, the haze from the gases enshrouded the area as if it were a foggy day. Dispersed along various ridges were clusters of Buddhist sculptures and markers. 

A stream from further up the mountain spilled into a series of small greenish pools. Despite the miniature size of the cascades, the sound of the falling water was quite relaxing. Several Japanese families enjoyed a picnic along the rocks. A few even enjoyed a quick dip in the waist-high waters. 

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Grassland of a Thousand Ri

Known as Grassland of a Thousand Ri, Kusasenri is part of a 785,000 sq meter grassland formed from the floor of an ancient Japanese volcanic crater. The crater itself is around 1 km wide and has two ponds. 

After a "picnic" lunch comprised of items purchased at a 7-eleven convenience store, we had a little time to walk around or to take a 5-minute horse ride for $15. The mound on the left of photo above was formed by a lava dome. Mt. Eboshidake, pictured in both images, is one of the five peaks of Mount Aso.

The scenic view was also enjoyed by some Harley riders. To my surprise, one of the riders was female.

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Fish on the Roof

 Having already seen some traditional buildings in (Dazaifu) Japan with ornamental rooftop decoration, it didn't at all surprise me to see mythical ceramic elements at the palace in Kumumato. This creature is known as a Sachihoko, with the body of a carp and head of a tiger. According to Japanese folklore, this the Sachihoko could cause the rain to fall. With fire being a constant danger for such wooden structures, the rain-inducing Sachihoko were believed to provide needed protection.

The placement of the Shachihoko on palace tiles reminded me of the dragons and dolkkaebi on Korean palaces, such as at Gyeongbukgung Palace in Seoul.

Dragon at Gyeongbukgung Palace

Dolkkaebi tile at Seonamsa Buddhist Temple

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