Patan and Patola Weaving

Once the capital of Gujarat between the 8th and 15th centuries, this town is now famous for its Patola weaving. Here we met the Salvi family who has™ practiced their double-ikat weaving technique since the 11th century. Renowned for its gem-like colors, designs, and durability, Patola woven cloth has long been presented to royal courts throughout the world, including by the famous explorer Ibn Batuta. In places such as Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia, Patola cloth was considered as magic, protective cloth – the cloth of the gods. Today, many of the Patola saris are gifted by wealthy families to their daughters or daughters-in-law at the time of marriage. Others become museum pieces.

The process by which the Patola silk cloth is woven sets it apart from other methods. In such double-ikat weaves, both the warp and weft threads are colored through a tie-dye method. Portions of the string that are to remain the current color are carefully wrapped, after which successive colors are added. The strings are tied, dyed, untied, and retied as needed until all colors have been added – a very laborious job. About 30 years ago, natural vegetable dyes have been re-introduced using colors from turmeric, marigolds, onion skins, pomegranate bark, madder, lac, catechu, cochineal, and indigo. Silk from China was used, along with that from the south Indian city of Mysore.

After the warp and weft threads are laid out, the weft threads are wound onto bobbins. Stretched on the primitive hand loom made from teakwood and bamboo strips were the taught warp strings. On the warp strings alone, the design of an elephant was already apparent. Such neatness would be carried out, that the finished cloth would be completely reversible. Two family members worked in tandem on the loom, moving the bamboo shuttle back and forth. One person carefully checked and ensured that the pattern of both warp and weft matched up, along with removing the tension of the warp threads with a large needle-like tool.

Such precision and attention to detail equates into a lengthy, laborious process. About 20-23 cm (8- 9”) can be woven by the pair in a day. Working at such a pace, it takes about 5-7 months to complete a sari of around 5.5 m (6 yards) from start to finish (depending on the complexity of the design) – including 40-50 days for the weaving process alone.

Read more about the Patola Weaving at http://www.patanpatola.com/index.html

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English Spoken Here - Sort of

While it is true that India has more English speakers than the UK and second only to the US, it doesn't always mean their English (particularly spelling) is top notch. This sign was posted in front of the Mysore Palace. How many spelling mistakes can you find?

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Sangam - Kaveri River

Our driver then took us to the sangam, or confluence of the two arms of the Kaveri River. Parking our car next to the large number of busses, the path to the river required us to pass buy lots of stalls selling drinks, trinkets, etc., as well as kids trying to sell postcards. At the confluence, school groups were sitting on steps enjoying mid-morning snacks of rice, briyani, and other South Indian foods. One teacher was dishing out the rice on each child’s plate from a large bucket. On the ground near the river were piles of plates and other discarded items, detracting from the nature scene before us. Sitting on rocks and some grassy areas within the river were a few birds. Further out were some people out on the coracle boat, with the oarsmen spinning them around in the circular shallow vessel.

Near a small Hindu altar right on the edge of the river, a man with shaved head walked into the river, carrying a small clay pot. Once out there, he submerged it in the river in a rather ceremonious way, leading us to presume that the pot was likely an urn.

See more photos of the Sangam on Melissa's Flickr page

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Srirangapattna and Gumbaz

Getting to the different sites in Srirangapattana gave us an opportunity to drive through the small-feel village. Youngsters wore shirts but no bottoms. Men stepped out of their house still brushing their teeth. Cattle rested in barns located right next to the near house. Villagers engaged in conversations by the tea and coffee stalls; others were busy tending to cattle. Kids played in the streets while men swept the ground with large palm branch fronds.

Another place we stopped at in the village was Gumbaz , tomb of Haidar Ali and Tipu Sultan. Dark outer columns contrasted with a creamy yellow exterior. Ivory-inlaid rosewood doors led the way into the domed structure that contained both tombs. Outside were more tombs, some of which were covered in decorative fabric. Lots of school children were there as well.

See more photos of Srirangapattna on my Flickr page

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Tipu Sultan's Daria Daulat Bagh

On our way to Bangalore, we stopped by the historical town of Srirangapatnam. This island town was made famous by Mysore’s raja Haider Ali and his son Tipu Sultan, both of whom were responsible for transforming the small state of Mysore into a major Muslim power. Nicknamed the “Tiger of Mysore,” Tipu Sultan took it upon himself to try and rid India of the hated British invaders. In 1799, the British finally managed to capture the citadel at Srirangapatnam, killing Tipu and firmly establishing Britain’s presence in South India.

After quickly photographing the Jami Masjid mosque (built by Tipu in 1787), we went to Tipu Sultan’s summer palace – Daria Daulat Bagh, also built in1787. Walking through the yellow archway at the entrance revealed the summer palace in the middle of a beautiful symmetrical garden. Large columns were made of teak. Green sunscreens covered much of the open veranda surrounding the entire palace. The scalloped arches of the veranda reminded me very much of the architecture I had seen in Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. The rather simple exterior of the palace failed to prepare me for the beauty of the interior. Every inch of the teak walls and ceiling was covered with patterns and colors. Some walls had painted floral designs with raised Arabic “window” frames. Columns were carved with zigzag stripes in blue, green, and cream colors. The ceiling had 8-pointed stars with floral designs inside each star. The floor was also patterned and quite colorful. Near the entrance was an upper balcony from which Tipu was able to view visitors. My favorite part was the two walls covered with murals. The west wall recalls in great detail the victory by Haider Ali over the British at Pollilore in 1870, painted in a Mughal style. Heroism and bravery by the Indian fighters was prominently presented. The east wall is basically narrative portraiture of the royal family, including queen smoking a hookah pipe. How I would have loved to photograph these mural treasures, but photography was not allowed. Sharing the space were scores of school kids in uniforms. They quickly snaked through the rooms & exhibits, many of whom were more interested in us than what was on the walls and displays. More busses full of kids were outside, with other groups sitting on lawn under shady trees, one class sitting neatly in a row.

See more photos of Srirangapatnam on my Flickr page

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Brindivan Gardens, Karnataka

For the evening’s excursion, we decided to go to the Brindivan Gardens. Located about 15 km (9 mi) north of Mysore, these beautifully landscaped gardens come alive in the evening when the water fountains are illuminated with colored lights. While the lines when we arrived about 5:15 there were already many people there. Unlike many places we visited, the prices were the same for all, regardless of nationality - 15 rupees admission and 50 for a camera. Groups of school children in uniforms were amongst the nearly all-Indian visitors. The atmosphere was very pleasant and relaxed. It was a happy together-time for families. Children frolicked about and played on the grass. Children eagerly accepted the peeled cucumbers and fruit snacks purchased for them. Even before dark, the grounds provided photographic opportunities, between the variety of flowers, fountains, and people asking to be photographed. Here too, we were asked to be part of the images, posing for photos with families. We waited on a bench on the hill overlooking the main area, anticipating sun-down and the grounds to be transformed with moving color. Excitement was in the air as the fountains received their nightly change. We had to be satisfied with the scene sans music, a change from the description in our guidebook. After observing the colored fountains from our high vantage point, we descended the stairs. “Fountain police” were busy blowing their whistles, telling kids (and some adults) when they got too close to the fountains. While enjoying the scene, I also practiced some low-light photography, attempting to capture scenes without flash, to blur the water and then to freeze it. More waves of people entered the gardens, filing in each side of the central fountains. When left around 7:15, there was a huge queue waiting to get in, with more cars and busses arriving every minute. It had been another pleasant day.

See more photos of the Brindivan Gardens on my Flickr set

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St. Philomena Cathedral, Mysore

After a short afternoon snooze in our wonderful hotel room, we visited the Cathedral of St. Philomena. In contrast to the Indo-Saracenic buildings of Mysore such as the Palace, the high arched Neo-Gothic church felt a bit out of place. Built in 1840, it features two 55 m (180 ft) high towers and resembles the Cologne Cathedral in Germany. Beautiful stained-glass windows illustrated events from the Bible such as the Birth of Christ, Jesus’ baptism by John the Baptist, the Last Supper, and the Crucifixion. Paintings depicting the Stages of the Cross were found near the entrance. Statues of Jesus and Mary adorned the sides, with Mary in a sari. A statue of Jesus was at the front, surrounded by huge sprays of flowers, along with baby Jesus at bottom. On the altar was a sculpture of St. Philomena, a third-century saint from Greece. People were lighting candles while others were silently praying in the pews.

See more photos of Mysore on my Mysore Flickr page

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Devaraja Market, Mysore

A short distance from the palace, we began to see vendors with their colorful produce propped up on top of wooden crates and shallow baskets. Bananas appeared to burst forth, an overwhelming scene of yellow. Women balancing large baskets of green-skinned oranges deftly manipulated their way through the crowd. We were now in front of Mysore’s renowned Devaraja Market. Passing through narrow entryway, we were suddenly bombarded with color and a bustle of activity. Mounded piles of powder in impossibly bright colors caught the eye and tempted the hand. The produce was a symphony of color as well; shallow baskets of reddish carrots were arranged in a spiral effect; the red-violet bottoms of small aubergines were all turned to face the outside; the green-gold star of squash pushed its way out of the basket. Green veggies of a large variety each had their particular way of presentation; some were mounded in massive piles, others neatly laid one next to the other; and still others in baskets slightly elevated from the pavement, the contents mounded higher in the center to look even more abundant. The tops of burlap bags were rolled open, revealing chilies, garlic, onions, and potatoes. Puffed rice erupted from metal bowls, while cashews, dates, and Indian savory snacks were carefully packaged in plastic bags. Men walked through the aisles with large sacks of potatoes or shallow baskets of bananas on their heads. Other aisles specialized in home goods such as whisk-brooms, coconut scrapers, wooden rolling pins, pots & pans, rodent traps, and handmade soap. A few stalls even sold long strands of hair in brown, black grey, and white colors.

Not to be missed were the aisles specializing in flowers. Massive quantities of marigolds in yellow, gold, and rust colors made it rather difficult to see the vendor sitting behind the pile. Large translucent burlap bags revealed its content of more marigolds, exchanging hands rather quickly from seller to buyer. Interspersed one could see strung flowers in yellow, purple & pink, as well as jasmine. Shallow baskets containing saffron and other flowers were also being sold. In between taking photos, observing the scenes before us, and maneuvering through the bustling aisles, our attention was occasionally interrupted by young boys asking “what is your nationality?” then “would you like to see a demonstration of how incense is made – I (or my father) makes it” or “please smell my oil/perfume – smelling is free.”

See more photos of the Devaraja Market on my Mysore Flickr page

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Mysore - Amba Vilas Palace

The next morning we took a swim in the hotel’s rooftop pool. Rather chilly at first, we grew accustomed to it – sort of. Imagine what the locals wearing earmuffs thought of us! After a satisfying continental breakfast in the jungle restaurant, we walked towards the palace. Several “helpful” people approached us saying that the palace was closed until noon, and in the meantime, they would take us to see an incense market along with a demonstration of how incense is made. I told my friends to ignore them, as these tout’s story about the palace was likely false.

Circumnavigating halfway around the palace grounds from the North gate to the South entrance on sidewalks much better than what Chennai has, we knew we were in the right place. Even though the palace had just opened for the morning, there already were a fairly large number of people who had gathered. Young men on a pilgrimage wearing black dhotis emerged from their van that was decked out with floral garlands on the front and on the top’s rack. After paying the entrance fee, we followed the crowd through the beautiful arched gateway and into the palace grounds. Like other people, we began taking photos of the exterior of the Amba Vilas Palace, with its beautiful Indo-Saracenic architecture constructed in 1897. Large flowerbeds (including beds of roses) contrasted with the bright blue sky and grey/creamy colored palace and its red onion-shaped domes. At first the security guard would not let my friend and I in with our SLR cameras (all cameras were supposedly to be turned in to the chaotic-looking desk even though we saw scores of people successfully conceal their camera in a bag), but finally we convinced them that we would not take any photos inside.

One of the first areas we went through was the Public Durbar Hall. With its scalloped arched window openings and expansive repeating rows of more scalloped arches in the hall itself, this room reminded me of much of the Rajput and Muslim architecture styles I had seen on my travels to Rajasthan, Agra, and Delhi. Wooden portals were carved with Hindu gods. Designed for public audience, the Public Durbar Hall was 47 m (155 ft) in length and 13 m (42 ft) in width, opening into a huge balcony supported by massive columns. The ornate white and gold pillars reflected onto the polished wooden floor.

We walked through the Doll’s Pavilion, which housed a collection of traditional dolls from the 19th and early 20th centuries. This room also had a wooden elephant howda (frame to carry passengers) decorated with 84 kg of gold (185 lb) and some sculptures. Some of the pieces were quite Hindu-looking, whereas others were very Neoclassical in appearance. An ornate curved spiral staircase graced one room. Hindu gods and goddesses were painted on some ceilings, some almost looking like angels.

One of the most beautiful rooms was the Diwan e khas, or the Hall of Private Audience. Used by the king for private audiences, it would have been a sight to behold for any guest privileged enough to be invited there. Brightly painted columns similar to the ones in the Public Hall framed the diameter of the room. Above was a stained glass roof imported from Glasgow, its colors spreading on the floor below. Similar to the ornate chandeliers I saw in the palaces in Hyderabad, I presume that these floral motif chandeliers came from Europe as well. Even the floor was ornate and colorful, done in an inlaid marble style embellished with semi-precious stones.

The Kalyana Mantapa served as the marriage hall and was rather octagonal in nature. Like the Diwan e khas, it had a colorful stained glass ceiling. Peacock motifs were also included in this glass ceiling created in Glasgow. On the floor, the peacock motif was continued in mosaic tiles brought over from England. Windows were frosted and etched with what looked like the family crest and other symbols. My friends and I all agreed the palace had beautiful elements, but we disagreed as to whether the combination was distasteful and over the top, or a shining example of India’s unique ability to combine rather disparate elements into a new aesthetic.

I enjoyed Mysore. Perhaps I'll return again - but making sure I'm there on the weekend so I can see the palace lit up at night with its 97,000 lightbulbs.


See more photos of Mysore on my Flickr Mysore page

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Mysore - Arrival

Finally, the hotel we were waiting for. It was our splurge – about $80 for a deluxe room (vs. the $13-$20 for a simple room in other places). The large beds, clean sheets & showers, shampoo & shower caps, TV in the main room and small living room, and above all- Internet – came at just the right time on our trip. The hotel also had a restaurant all decked out in the jungle theme. Here we ate non-Indian food, serenaded by the sounds of different jungle animals peering at us from the trees above or floor next to us.

That evening, we walked around to find a few small items. One of the streets in the area specialized in jewelry – nearly every store sold glittering pieces. Finally we found the items my friend was looking for. Enjoying the pleasant temperatures and actual sidewalks, we walked further until we arrived at the Mysore Palace and adjacent Hindu temple, both lit up. As it wasn’t the weekend, the palace wasn’t covered with 97,000 glowing lightbulbs, but it was pretty nonetheless.

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