Springtime at Garden of the Morning Calm

This past weekend, I went with a few friends to the Garden of the Morning Calm. Sure, I had plenty of things to do, but visiting this beautiful garden in spring was on my Korea "bucket list." I first visited this place in January during the winter Lighting Festival. Part of the garden was not included in the winter event, and I wanted to see its springtime transformation. Korea gets gardening right.

The 330,000 sq m. garden is open year round; during the higher season (mid-March - November), it is open from 8:30-sunset. Located about 40 km northeast of Seoul, it is an easy day trip. We took the subway from Hongik University, transferring once and arriving at Cheongpyeong Station. Although a city tour bus was available, we decided to pile into a taxi and shave off a little time, arriving at the entrance about 20 minutes later. Although it was fairly busy, the large area provided ample space to spread out and get some shots without hordes of people. As with any Korean destination, arriving earlier is best. 

Within the grounds, there are 20 different themed areas. Some areas were very manicured, and others felt more natural. Pavilions and other Korean-styled buildings provided shelter, picnic spots, places to eat/drink, purchase plants & gifts, and bathroom facilities. 

One could easily spend half a day, particularly if enjoying all the different paths, boardwalks, greenhouses, and facilities.

I'll be posting more on the garden. For now, here is the link to my Flickr album.

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Yesteryear's GPS

In a country with such a high saturation of technology, this scene struck me a bit by surprise. I guess this paperclipped map could help get the driver there. Road visibility might be something to consider. 

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Transportation in Bamako

August 30, 2000

Traveling in Bamako is definitely a unique experience. The levels of technology and who/what you meet while on the road are fascinating. In just my short walk to the school, I encounter many different things. There are a few paved roads in Bamako, but most, especially the side streets, are red dirt. They contain potholes or gullies which are created or enhanced by the intense rain that is occurring this time of year. The potholes fill up with rain, making huge malaria mud puddles that both pedestrians and motorists work very hard to avoid. If the hole is too big to avoid, sometimes tires and junk is thrown into the pit, reducing the depth and perhaps making it possible to drive over. Walking on foot is much less bumpy than by vehicle, but then you have to deal with the dust, mud, and vehicle exhaust. 

The most common vehicles here are bicycles and mopeds. They seem to be the easiest to maneuver through traffic, around potholes, donkeys, or whatever is in the way. If it's a car or truck, it's definitely a

4WD. Good shocks and ability to sustain the conditions of the roads are a must. Public transportation includes either a yellow taxi or bright green converted Peugot 504 and 505s. Those green bachés are very cheap, and deservedly so. The drivers erratically make themselves through the traffic, are filled to the brim with people, and often don't even have a door. The people don't seem to mind. Many are entertained by passengers who drum away on their djembe, or they begin singing and clapping. Expats tend to have a SUV-style vehicle and most have hired drivers. While air conditioning is not always present, an extra tire is a must. Changing tires alongside the road is a very common occurrence. 

Regardless of what type of transport locals take, they can often be seen with animals (dead or alive), produce, or goods piled on top of the vehicle or clutched in the hands of the two-wheeled driver. This makes the roads a bit more "colorful" but not always for the feint of heart.

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Sungnyemun Gate - Finished at Last

Ever since the 2008 arson fire that destroyed the wooden portion of Seoul's landmark, the nation has been anxiously anticipating the re-opening of the Sungnyemun Gate. Also known as the Namdaemun Gate due to its proximity with the famous market located nearby, this National Treasure #1 was one of eight gates that comprised the fortress walls originally surrounding the capital of the Joseon Dynasty. Originally constructed in 1398, it was rebuilt in 1447, the Sungnyemun Gate, meaning "Gate of Exalted Ceremonies," was used to welcome foreign emissaries as well as to keep out Siberian Tigers. During the early 20th century, the Japanese colonialists demolished the fortress walls surrounding the gate to ease traffic problems. During the Korean war, the gate was heavily damaged and was restored in 1963. Further renovations were completed just two years prior to the arson.

Adherence to the original colors, carvings, and designs was practiced in reconstruction of the wooden structure. Over 22,000 ceramic roof tiles, fired in a traditional kiln were also included to keep the gate as authentic as possible. In early May, the public opening ceremony was held.

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Last Drive to the Chennai Airport: India Reflections

Stringing the flower petals, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

The school driver has come to take me to the airport. Nightfall Has brought some relief from the heat, but it still is just as humid. On a main street, we pass by old familiar scenes; stalls pouring steaming hot filtered coffee, others frying samosas and other various quick Indian foods, a store selling school uniforms (the new school year had just begun), others displaying sari material, and numerous sweet shops. Women stringing garlands of fresh jasmine and other flowers worked alongside those hoping to sell bananas and neatly piled mangoes. Reading the sign "Hotel Runs," I had to chuckle one last time at its rather odd naming for a restaurant. Along the way to the airport, we passed by churches, Hindu temples, and a mosque. Construction for the upcoming Metro and several larger hotels was underway, both signs of growth and modernization in the city. Finally we arrived at the airport, which also was undergoing construction. For now at least, the scene was as chaotic, crowded, and colorful as it always has been since I've lived here. Perhaps that just is a part of India that will remain in one way or another.

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Banana Leaves and Sandalwood Paste

Those little sputtering tuk-tuks definitely like to get into the Ayudha Puja festivities. Rickshaw owners take their vehicles to get a cleaning and at special stands, have the exteriors decorated with patterned (or splattered) sandalwood paste. Banana stalks are then attached to the side corners. Going through the streets, the large leaves flutter in the breeze like flags.

At the colorful stands where the "pimping" of the rickshaws takes place, loud music jubilantly announces the presence of the decorating service. This stand was set up on the side of the road going past Chennai's many IT parks.

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Bhuj - Kutch Area Headquarters

While visiting the various villages in the Kutch area, we used a larger city of Bhuj (population 137,000) as our headquarters. Our hotel was located on a rather drab street, whose stores only sold items such as motorbike parts, hardware, and auto parts. The dusty street was shared by ambling cattle, the occasional camels, cow–pulled carts, tractors, large trucks, and various public transportation vehicles such as trucks, motor bikes modified with a wagon on back. If we wanted to get something to eat at a place other than our hotel, we would need to be satisfied with packaged snacks from the tiny convenience shack. At least there were ATM machines, enabling us to make additional crafts purchases!

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The Long Way to Delhi

After a pleasant early morning walk, we returned to the hotel where our taxi was waiting to take us to the airport. To our dismay, a message on my cell phone from the airlines revealed that our flight was canceled. We had heard that sometimes the airline cancels flights when it doesn’t have enough passengers; for a rather expensive domestic flight, we had hoped that this wouldn’t happen to us. With only one flight by this one airline per day, the only way we would catch our upcoming flight from Delhi to Udaipur would be to take a taxi. Pooling our rupees together, we came up with enough to pay for the very long taxi ride. It would enable us to see more of Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, and Haryana. As we traversed the countryside, we saw many more Seikhs wearing various colored turbans, cowpies stacked neatly against the side of simple buildings, women carrying large bundles of sticks, veggies, and grasses on their heads, and numerous colorful trucks, carts pulled by horses or bullocks, and overflowing buses. Finally, at about 11:30 pm, we arrived in Delhi after nearly 12 hours of driving. We were at the airport with PLENTY of time to spare.

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Paharanj Area, Delhi

Although not a posh area by any means, the Paharganj area of Delhi where our hotel was located was bustling with energy. In true Indian fashion, it was rather chaotic, but alive. Bicycle rickshaws pedaled their way through the narrow streets. Cows ambled their way through the crowd, leaving behind presents. Vendors cooked right along the sides of the streets. Cloth, sandals, produce, and other goods were laid out for those willing to bargain. In the windows or openings of narrow shops, psychedelic baggy pants, shawls, textiles, jewelry, and other goods catering to tourists were prominently displayed. Young backpacker tourists sported their newly purchased outfits. For the more practical traveler, toilet paper and bottled water were also given their space. Due to the “chill” in the air, knitted caps and scarves, along with mittens, jackets and sweaters were brought out to the front, hoping to catch the eye of both tourists and locals alike.

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Chennai: Growth of Income, Increase in Pollution

Anyone who has lived in Chennai for even a few years can attest to the significant number of changes that have occurred in the city. It is no longer the sleepy fishing village present just 30 years ago. Industries such as the IT sector, automotive manufacturing, and cell phones have contributed to the rise of the middle class. Those with additional income desire to own a vehicle; public transport or bicycles are no longer satisfactory. In April 1998, there were only 975,915 vehicles. Twelve years later, that mushroomed to 2,658,083. From the months of April to September of this year, over 540,000 additional cars joined the already congested streets. 

While this means more Chennaites enjoying the freedoms of their private transport, it also brings with it an increase in pollution - both air and noise. Well over 20 years ago, vehicular emissions tests with certificates were enacted, but it hasn't been enforced. In the average emissions testing center in Chennai, only 200 vehicles undergo the test every month. Traffic police are starting to do some surprise checks, but with the fine of only 100 rupees $2.20, I doubt that such measures will bring much change.

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Early Morning Teapickers

The next morning I said goodbye to my Ella friends and got into the van that would take me to Kandy. We kept the windows open, letting the cool morning air of the mountains inside the vehicle. Tea field plantations dominated the area, interspersed with steep grassy hills and government-protected forests. Waterfalls and streams gushed everywhere, seemingly out of nowhere. They were particularly plentiful in the tea fields. Finally we spotted our first tea pickers, who were just coming to work. After tying their lunch bundles onto bushes closer to the path’s entry, the women took their pole and picking bag and marched further into the field.

After passing through a few towns, the paved road ended and construction began. Due to the dustiness, we rolled up the windows and turned on the AC. Construction workers donned hard hats and flip flops. Some had plastic-looking face masks to help filter out the dust. Although more equipment was used than in some construction in India, a lot of work still was done by hand.
Along side of the road people had produce stands, each selling about the same items within a stone’s throw of each other. In addition to the usual fruits and vegetables, they also had for sale the smelly durian and jackfruit.

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And the Cycle Rickshaw Driver Paddles On

In Chennai, the black and yellow auto rickshaws rule the road - at least in terms of numbers. With their small size, these vehicles deftly maneuver their way through narrow streets and the narrowest of openings between buses. In spite of the auto rickshaw’s popularity, their older cousin - the cycle rickshaw - still tries to eek out a presence and living in in the narrow streets of Georgetown and other older, more northern parts of Chennai.

On a typical day, a cycle rickshaw driver earns around 100 rupees ($2.25) carting people on short trips. While the cycles are meant to hold two people, some are modified with an extra plank to accommodate five. How difficult it must be to cycle that amount of weight around! While this might entice a family to ride, it does not necessarily mean more money per trip, because charges are typically based on distance. Only those with extra time on their hands, very little money, or a very short distance to go would opt to choose a cycle type over an auto rickshaw. A recent newspaper article interviewed a few cycle rickshaw drivers . With the meager earnings, they weren’t even able to afford housing - instead staying with relatives or simply staying in the rickshaw. If the driver does not own the rickshaw, then his earnings will have to be shared by the owner, who charges perhaps 25 rupees for rent. Despite the low earnings and hard work, one interviewed cycle drivers’ dream was simply to own a cycle rickshaw some day. Family tradition (many are 2nd or 3rd generation cycle rickshaw drivers) may likely have some bearing on that decision, but there must be more to it than that. And so the cyclist paddles on.

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Nine Arches Bridge, Ella

Back in Ella with plenty of time before lunch (I was invited to Kasun’s house to eat), we got out of the auto rickshaw at the spot where logging was occurring. Alas, no tea picking was going on today in Ella either. Instead, we walked on a path through the forest following a stream until we reached what is known as “Nine Arches Bridge.” This landmark railway bridge was built by the British to help haul timber, tea, and other resources from the region. Next to the railway, a cow, tied to a tree, happily munched on grass, its bell tinkling. People were walking on the tracks, familiar with the timings of the trains. The high arches – all nine of them – were slender and graceful. Near the tops of the arches were large beehives. The insects, explained Kasun, chose this area knowing they wouldn’t be disturbed by people or animals.

Out in the sun, the temperature was warm, so we headed back into the shade of the forest. Retracing our path, we headed back into town where I picked up a clay pot of fresh curd (a favorite of Kasun’s mother) and then went to his house. There we had a meal of rice, green beans, dahl, fish curry, pampadam, and curd. After watching a “Dennis the Menace” Christmas movie borrowed from the cousin and looking at Kasun’s stamp collection and newspaper clippings of the civil war, I once again thanked the family for their generous hospitality and went to the hotel. Shortly thereafter, the Sri Lankan hotel guest family and I were invited to the birthday party of the hotel owner’s daughter. Although not hungry, I joined the others in having a piece of cake. Now how often does that happen in large-town hotels? Had I known about the birthday party, I would have skipped the evening meal, but I still did have some beef curry, vegetables, potatoes, and shredded carrots.

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Sidewalks are for....?

Having done a fair amount of walking in Chennai, I can attest that Chennai is NOT pedestrian friendly. Try to cross the road, even in a crosswalk, and you'll be waiting for a while; people don't stop. Walk signs (particularly working ones) are uncommon. IF a sidewalk exists, it's usually usurped by vendors and service people (i.e. the shoe repairman, tailor, or bicycle tire pumper). Or, it has become a parking lot for motorbikes, auto rickshaws, construction material, and cars. Trees and electric or light poles also occupy front and center, leaving little or no room for which to pass. Therefore, pedestrians are often forced to walk on the road. That can be particularly unpleasant after it rains, because the flooded streets require people to either walk further out into the street, slog through the filthy water, and hope you don't get sprayed by a passing vehicle.

In today's Hindu newspaper, an article reported that 42% of all road accidents in Chennai involve pedestrians. 34% of all daily trips involve either walking or riding a bike, with the facilities for both transport modes woefully inadequate. In a study for the Chennai Metropolitan Authority, of the nearly 1,200 km roads in the city, only 20 km have 1.5 meter wide sidewalks. Of 217 major traffic junctions, only 36% have pedestrian crossing signals. Since 1970, the percentage of people walking has actually increased. with reasons cited being impossibility of using cycles and cost of other modes of transport.

I would love to see wider sidewalks that are wheelchair friendly set up, with fines discouraging parking. Trees could be trimmed. More crosswalks need to be added along with pedestrian crossing lights. Motorists who fail to yield to pedestrians need to be fined. Underground or crossing bridges will also help. Certain areas could be made pedestrian-only zones. How about the re-introduction of the trams? What to do with vendors? That's much harder to deal with. Yea, I know I'm being overly optimistic that Chennai will solve its transport problem any time soon.

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Train Ride to Ella, Sri Lanka - pt 1

Instead of touring one of India’s many destinations for our October break, I decided to visit its southern neighbor, the teardrop-shaped island of Sri Lanka. Arriving in the capitol’s airport at just before 4AM, I quickly made it through immigration, got my visa, and some cash to get me started. A city bus took me within a few blocks of the train station – much cheaper than getting a taxi. After purchasing a few local snacks for the train, I purchased a ticket for a seat on the observation car - less than $7 for what would be a ten-hour ride.

Train Ride to Ella
Morning light revealed rather flat land, with many rice paddy fields barren or flooded. Paths between the fields were also made muddy with the recent rains. White pinnacles of Buddhist stupas peeked between the palm trees. Moving slightly higher in elevation, we began seeing some rubber trees and plenty of bananas. Fields gave way to steep tree-covered hills. Rubber tires were placed as steps, assisting navigation up step paths to homes perched up high hills. Farming of the terra-cotta colored ground here was mostly restricted to terraced methods.

Between the trees, I spotted some tea bushes – the first of many to come. Soon the landscape was converted into an emerald green carpet of tea bushes, the hills and mountains appearing as if manicured by giants. Streams flowed through the fields, carving right through the plantations. Waterfalls of varying sizes became a common sight, emerging from forested areas and cascading down rocky slopes. Signs in Sinhalese, Tamil, and English indicated to which tea plantation the land belonged. The white of the larger buildings made it easy to spot the many tea factories dotting the area. Occasionally distant flecks of color were spotted in the tea fields, indicators of women tea pluckers. Near villages, plots of land was reserved for vegetable gardens. The mounded ground particular to that area reminded me of a Hershey’s bar. Auto rickshaws in a variety of colors scooted along the narrow road, with artificial flowers, pictures of religious icons, small statues, and writing distinguishing one from the other. Colorful Hindu temples, white Buddhist stupas, and green minarets (along with the occasional Christian cross) dotted the sides of the roads in towns.

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Ayudha Puja Time again

Already in the airport, I saw signs of today's festivities. One of the computer monitors had the sandalwood paste splattered over it. On the way home from the airport, banana stalks were flapping in the breeze, attached to the sides of the auto rickshaws. Motorbikes, buses, cars, bikes, and even the local recycling dude's tricycle cart had garlands of flowers and other decorations on them. Special stands were set up for auto rickshaws where they could get the TLC makeover treatment for their vehicles - wash and decoration. Over some businesses, one could find more floral garlands and hanging palm frond decorations.

Read more about this festival honoring/worshiping the implements of labor on my blog post from last year: http://melissaenderle.blogspot.com/2009/09/ayudha-puja-decorations-begin.html

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Missin' the Colors

Soon it will be fall. I hear descriptions by my family members in Wisconsin and friends in Serbia about the leaves that are beginning to change colors. Visions of leaves aglow in the Kalemegdan Fortress of Belgrade pass through my mind, reminiscing about the wonderful walks I had in Serbia during the fall. Here in the South Indian city of Chennai, the only thing that really marks a change in season is the growing puddles (or floods) in the roads from the start of the monsoon. The colors of monsoon are drab or downright disgusting; brown mud, tar black puddles just waiting for a large vehicle to splash you while traversing in an open rickshaw. 

How I miss the colors of Serbia...and my dear friends.

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South Korea in South India

 

http://www.caradvice.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/11/hyundai-india-rd.jpg

The Tamil Nadu state government has just announced the establishment of an industrial cluster exclusively for South Korea. Currently there are about 160 South Korean companies in Chennai, a figure reflected in our school demographics. Already at end of 2009, there were over 8,400 S. Koreans living in India, of which 3,000 were in Chennai. A year after this statistic, I can imagine that figure is much higher. Hyundai is one such company that has made a significant impact in the state.

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Rickshaw Driver

Waiting patiently for customers, this bicycle rickshaw driver was one of many who asked to have their photo taken. On Mint Street and others in Georgetown area of Chennai, such rickshaws are more common - not the 3-wheeled put-put lawn mower engine ones that are ubiquitous in all of India. Such a skinny guy, I wonder how much he can haul around.

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Get your Peanuts!

Like the country itself, there's always something going on in Indian trains. Here we have a photo of a woman selling nuts and small bags of fruit. She hopped on during a stop at one village and quickly made her way through the cars, announcing the contents of her basket balanced expertly on her head. Still other vendors walked by the open (glass-less) windows of the train, exchanging bags of water, fruit, and snacks with passengers through the window. 

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