Artwork: Naxi Erhuang Musician

 My latest artwork: Naxi Erhuang Musician

Lijiang, Yunnan province, China

©2021 Melissa Enderle

It's another humid summer evening in this ancient town of Lijiang. In the air-conditioned of the Naxi Ancient Music performance hall, I sit amongst my fellow musicians all clad in purple embroidered silk robes. Although I am the oldest member, a few of the wizened beards belong to those in their 80's. Next to me is a young disciple of mine who has been most eager to learn how to play the Erhuang. Behind me is a young Pipa player, already confident with the ancient solemn tunes of Dongjing music. Most of the audience members have come to this UNESCO World Heritage town from other parts of our motherland, China. It is reassuring to see that they, like the young members of our band, are expressing interest in the traditional music of my Naxi people. Hopefully, they will help keep this most ancient of music alive, much like I helped ensure it survived during the tumultuous Cultural Revolution. We have just begun a slow, fluid, pentatonic melody. As my eyes begin to close, I am transported to the days of yesteryear when I performed beside my revered father.

See more of my artwork at www.melissaenderle.com

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Terracotta Warriors - Bronze Chariots and Weapons

Clay figures were not the only thing present in the pits. Encased in large wooden coffins were two bronze chariots of remarkable state of preservation, discovered in 1980. Both bronze chariots, each led by four bronze horses, are now in on display in the Exhibition Hall. 

Chariot #2

About half life-size, the chariots are thought to be for Emperor Qin as he toured around in the afterlife. Each of the chariots had over 3,000 accessories. The one known as Chariot #2 has separate back and front rows, with the empty back row reserved for the emperor. A replica of both chariots can be seen at the Shaanxi History Musuem in Xi'an.

Over 40,000 bronze weapons were recovered from the pits where the Terracotta Warriors were buried. These were not just simulated weapons, but ones that were fully functional. Weapons included over 37,000 arrowheads,  as well as spears, swords, daggers, crossbows, battle axes, bayonets, and more unique ancient types.  

Despite being over 2,200 years old, the weapons were still sharp. These military-grade state-of-the-art weapons were also never used, indicating that they were made just for the Terracotta army. 

Reconstructed crossbow with mechanism from the burial pit

When studying the crossbow triggers, researchers determined that the parts were very uniform, made in molds and in small batches. Assembly of the standardized, five interlocking parts happened in small workshops – not in large assembly lines. The crossbows are capable of piercing modern armor and kill with a single strike. Read more about the weapons in this article.

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Terra Cotta Warriors - Other Pits

Although the building of Pit One is by far the largest one in terms of dimension and number of figures, there were two other pits next to Pit One and a few others at the mausoleum site.

Chariot Drivers and horses

Some figures were in an excellent state of preservation. In other sections, only pieces could be found. Pit Three was small, but the high-ranking figures there were particularly well preserved. Of note, this was the only pit that didn't suffer from burning. I especially liked the imprint of the chariot wheel, still present even though the wood has long since been destroyed by fire and/or decay.

Horse and soldier pieces, chariot wheel imprint

More work needs to be done!

Variety of figures in a pit near Mausoleum

Kneeling Archer

Another highlight for me was seeing some of the figures close up. Placed under glass, these displayed sculptures could be viewed 360°. 

Backside of kneeling soldier (detail)

Some of the paint in the back of the soldier was still visible. I was amazed at how the soles of the soldier's shoes were even imprinted with textured patterns. I looked for the artist's signature on this piece and other sculptures but could not find it. 

Color still showing on a fragment

From my art history class, I knew that the warriors and horses were painted. Prior to watching a video, I wasn't aware of how saturated the colors originally were. The photo above shows a slightly muted version of the original colors. Upon excavation, most of any remaining color faded almost immediately. One website said that the lacquer under the pigments oxidized and curled within 15 seconds of exposure to air and peeled off within four minutes! The purple color, known as Han Purple is of particular interest. Known as one of the earliest synthetic colors, it now is being explored in building quantum computers.

Standing Archer

Detail of mid-ranking archer

Detail of beautifully formed hands of a high-ranking officer

Other posts on the Terra Cotta Warriors:
A Visit to the Terra Cotta Warriors Museum - Part One
Pit One Terra Cotta Warriors (continued)
Pit One Hospital

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Terra Cotta Warriors - Pit One Hospital

Tagged pieces of warriors

As I walked towards the back, the number of intact figures diminished. Some areas were unexcavated. In other areas, tags indicated individual pieces of soldiers.

Amputees with plastic wrap "facials"

In the back was a "hospital" of sorts. Here, one could see figures being restored. Some had plastic wrap over various body parts including the face, which looked like a facial.

Soldiers bound up for reconstruction

Others with more serious reconstruction needs were tightly bound. Virtually all of the standing soldiers had to be reconstructed. Many of the kneeling archers miraculously survived intact, due to their lower to the ground placement and triangular poses.

Horses and figures in reconstruction

Even the horses could be seen in this "hospital" area receiving reconstruction.

Working area

In this area were several rows of desks where workers could so restoration and research. On one desk I saw tiny pieces. What laborious work that must be to make sense of those pieces and recreate accurate figures! I wondered how much it cost to restore an especially damaged figure.

Other Posts on the Terra Cotta Warriors
A Visit to the Terra Cotta Warriors Museum - Part One
Pit One Terra Cotta Warriors (continued)
Terra Cotta Warriors - Other Pits

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Terra Cotta Warriors - Pit One (continued) - Part Two

Middle section with special walkways for restorers. Plenty left to excavate.

Because I was not a VIP, I was not privileged enough to go to special overlooks (these were roped off) or wander amidst the sculptures. Photos were shown of the Clintons, Putin, and Park Geun-Hye (former president of South Korea) standing right next to the warriors. Instead, I had to rely on my camera's zoom to capture views from less-than-ideal vantage points. 

Even from a distance, the detail on the figures who stood about 1.8 meters (5.9 feet) was quite impressive. Variations included size (up to 1.97 meters - 6.4 feet), girth (slender to those with a paunch), type (10 types of soldiers), pose (standing and kneeling), hairstyle, clothing, and unique faces. A video I had watched earlier had described how when using facial recognition software, no two faces were alike.

In some areas, gaps were seen behind horses. Wooden chariots were victims of burning and have long since disappeared.

Individual warriors, one with face painting

Although most of the figures have long since lost their color, remnants of color could be seen on some. Both the people and horses were once painted in bright colors.

Other posts on the Terra Cotta Warriors:
A Visit to the Terra Cotta Warriors Museum - Part One
Pit One Hospital
Terra Cotta Warriors - Other Pits

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A Visit to the Terra Cotta Warrior Museum - Part One

On the first day of my Chinese New Year break, I decided to go to the famed Terra Cotta Warriors Museum. I had waited to visit this UNESCO World Heritage site in winter, hoping that fewer people would be visiting. Having lived in various Asian countries for nine years, I knew that getting there early would be advantageous. Due to the southerly location of my apartment, I decided to take a DiDi (China's version of Über) directly to the museum. My pre-arranged DiDi driver arrived about 15 minutes early to pick me up, but I didn't complain; it was much better than being late. Daylight had just broken by the time we arrived at the museum, located 53 km from my apartment. Although the ride cost me around $25, it was worth the hassle-free experience and time saved.

Ticket entrance to the Museum

The place was virtually deserted. After about 20 minutes, the ticket lines opened up. I was one of the first in line to pay my 120 RMB ($17.86) ticket. I was ready to see what is considered the Eighth Wonder of the World and the greatest archaeological find of the 20th century.

Pit One ahead. No crowds!

Knowing that the crowds would come, I headed directly to Pit One. By far the largest building at over 14,260 sq meters, Pit One housed over 8,000 warriors, infantry, horses, cavalry, and officers and over 50 chariots.

Overview of Pit One

Arriving early had paid off. I was the first one inside and had it to myself for over five minutes. Standing in front of me were over 2,000 excavated figures to protect the emperor in death. Over 700,000 workers contributed to the building project that took 38 years to complete. (Side note: many of the workers' bodies were found in mass graves within the massive complex).

Emperor Qin Shi Huang

Even though the Qin dynasty was rather short (221-206 BC), it was quite amazing that so much of his legacy lives on. Emperor Qin Shi Huang succeeded in unifying a series of warring states to form the precursor to modern China. Other accomplishments: initiating the Great Wall, standardizing weights and currency, and evolving the written language into contemporary Chinese script. 

Three-line vanguard

Standing at the front was a three-line vanguard of 204 troop members. Imagine how imposing they would have looked with weapons in-hand! 

Stay tuned for more posts.

Pit One Terra Cotta Warriors (continued)
Pit One Hospital
Terra Cotta Warriors - Other Pits

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Xi'an, the City

The capital of the Shaanxi province in the central-northwest region of China, the city of Xi'an is home to 12 million people. The city of Xi'an is over 3,000 years old. For 1,000 of these years, it was the capital city under 13 dynasties. In fact, around 750 AD, Xi'an was the largest city in the world, with over 1 million inhabitants. Historical ruins, museums, and cultural relics abound. It is most famous for the 3rd century Terracotta Warriors, which were discovered in 1974 and are now considered an eighth wonder of the world.

 Xi'an was the end of the Silk Road. Its well-preserved massive city wall is one of the most complete city walls in China and one of the largest ancient (194 BC) military defensive structures in the world.  Several pagodas, such as the 7-story Giant Wild Goose Pagoda (652 AD) and the Drum Tower are also well-known. The Muslim Street is well-known for its good eats. Embroidery and paper cutting are two crafts of the region.

Xian A high-speed bullet from Beijing takes about 4 1/2 hours. The temperatures are hot in the summer 80°F (32°C) and cold (around freezing) but dry in the winter. Snow may occasionally fall but only lasts for a brief period.  Annual rainfall is 21.8" (553mm).

Xi'an is also an important economic, scientific, and industrial city. Electronics, aerospace technology, high-tech products, autos, and bio-pharmaceuticals are produced here.

Qin Ling Mountains

There are some areas of natural scenic beauty such as the Qinling Mountains (home to the Qinling pandas). The Hua Shan (Flower Mountain) is one of China's most sacred mountains. Perched on top of it is the Xiyue Temple. Mount Taibai National Forest Park is a zoo of China and has nearly 1,700 types of insects and animals, set in a natural environment.

BBC has a good series on Xi'an.

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Roman Antonine Baths of Carthage, Tunisia 🇹🇳

The Baths of Antonine in Carthage, Tunisia, are the largest Roman baths constructed in Africa. In fact, they are one of the three largest Roman baths built anywhere. Built between 146 and 162AD, the baths are located right next to the Mediterranean Sea. The freshwater for the baths came via aqueducts from the Zaghuan mountains 60km south of Carthage. This aqueduct and the cisterns where the water was stored was a favorite site of mine, located less than 10 minutes' walk from my apartment.

Due to its close proximity to the sea, the baths (separate facilities for males and females) were located on the upper floors instead of the ground floor as is traditional. The marble capitals on the eight granite columns supporting the central dome each weighed four tons. Swimming pools were located both inside and outside the structure.

Much of what we see today is from the ground floor service area. One can still see the wood furnaces. A large portion of the masonry from the more beautiful upper floors was repurposed after the basement roof collapsed.

I especially liked the ornamental carving. This vertical piece, whose size dwarfs an adult, gives one an idea of how ornate the baths were. The Antonine Baths are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site in Carthage.

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Tending the Sheep by the Roman Ruins

Now with a story about the shepherd.

Like my father and grandfather, I traverse through these hilly lands near my hometown of Tébeousouk with my sheep. This time of year it’s easier to find grass for my sheep to eat. The grove of olive trees near the Punic Mausoleum provides some extra shade against the sun. My sheep seem to favor this area as well; the cut stones, once part of Punic or Roman buildings dating around two millennia, now serve as climbing playgrounds. To my left are the embedded pavement stones of a road, leading to the Capitol building that still dominates the hill of the ancient Roman city. Although Dougga is a popular tourist attraction, the officials guarding this UNESCO World Heritage site have graciously allowed me and other shepherds to graze our herds through these historical lands.

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Artwork: Tending the Sheep - Dougga, Tunisia

Tending Sheep by the Roman Ruins

Color pencil

Dougga, Tunisia

My latest artwork is of a shepherd tending sheep by the ancient Roman city of Dougga, Tunisia. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Note the large carved stones scattered throughout. It was not uncommon to see shepherds and their sheep meandering through the ruins.

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Arches of a Different Name

Since I posted an image related to the "Golden Arches" from the Phillipines the other day, this post deals with a different, but also famous, arch. Here I am (around 2002), pictured sitting under the triumphal arch of Alexander Severus. Erected in 228 AD in honor of of Roman Emperor Alexander Severus, it was one of two arches at the UNESCO World Heritage Site. It functioned as one of the city gates, at the end of a road leading from Carthage to the city of Tebessa.
Through the archway we can see the site's famous Capitol, built in 166 AD.

Tunisia is amazing for its ancient history. Dougga is one of several ancient sites in this small country - very worthwhile visiting.

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Sea Shells in My Windows: the Capiz Windows of Vigan

Over my many travels, I've photographed a lot of windows.The variety of materials and styles can be quite amazing, often dependent on many factors such as material availability, weather, finances, culture,  and religion. While wandering through the historical section of Vigan, I noticed many windows that had similar elements - wooden frames subdivided into smaller square sections and slightly translucent material that didn't really look like glass. 

During the 19th century, this style of windows became fashionable in the Philippines. Capiz, a flat bivalve found in local coastal waters was used as a substitute for glass; it was cheaper, widely available, and could withstand typhoon winds and rain. The shell also allowed enough light to shine through.

Colored panes were also quite pretty.

The windows, some of them quite tall, were in various states of repair. Some of the windows looked more like a smile of a first grader - punctuated with lots of gaps. Even those had a strong sense of character.

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Revealed Bricks and Star Skeletons

I love wandering through older parts of towns and admire the architecture. Although I appreciate the restoration work and other efforts at preservation, I admit that I am equally attracted to some of the crumbling or faded parts. The "story" of the building seems to be stronger and the overall effect, although a bit "gritty," often feels more authentic. 

Such was the case in Vigan, Philippines. In some places, the lime plaster on the 16th century buildings had begun to crumble away, revealing the narrow bricks - the same type I had seen being made in nearby San Nicolas. The shapes formed by some revealed bricks reminded me of continents; the contrasting texture was quite beautiful. 

Combine that with weathered and sometimes brightly-painted doors, and you have a great symphony of colors and textures. 

Hanging above several doors were some stars; perhaps they were decorations from many Christmases ago. Their skeletal framework contrasted particularly during the early morning light, whose tattered edges repeated the pocked markings on the lime-washed walls.   

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Relief Carvings at Prambanan

The relief carvings at Prambanan were beautifully carved. This one was one of my favorites; I love the tender intimacy between the two figures.

Many of the relief carvings are very narrative and retell the story of the Hindu epic Ramayana. Another wall was adorned with relief carvings of Brahmin sages and devatas. 

Inside the three main temples devoted to Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma, one can still find some sculptures. They are in various states of preservation; many have heads and/or limbs missing. It was quite dark inside the temples, making hand-held photography (especially with limited time) a bit more tricky.

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