Kapitan Keling Mosque

Yet another mosque in historical Georgetown is the Kapitan Keling Mosque. It was built in 1801 to serve the area's Muslim South Indian community. Much of its current style was achieved during the mosque's major enlargement in 1916. Indeed, the Moghul-styled architecture felt like the building could easily have been in Agra or Delhi, reminding me of buildings such as Agra's Jami Masjid, the Taj Mahal or the Humayun's Tomb in Delhi. 

The single minaret, which seemed more like a small building, is from where the call to prayer is announced. 

The Kapitan Keling Mosque is located on what is known as Harmony Street, as it contains buildings serving the community's varied faiths including Islam, Taoism, Hinduism, Christianity, Buddhism, and Confucianism. 

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Bonbibi and the Honey Collector

Walking through the village of Pakhirala, we were shown a small enclosure along the side of the road. Inside were several clay figures. Our guide explained that in the Sunderbans, a sort of folk religion was practiced - superstition combined with Islam and Hinduism. The clothed female figure was Bonbibi, a goddess of the jungle. Islanders believe that she protects the fishermen, woodcutters, and honey collectors from attacks by tigers.
Our guide said that this boy (below) was also involved with the honey collecting protection/success. Looking up information using the name he gave me was unsuccessful.

Read more about Bonbibi at http://infochangeindia.org/environment/features/maa-bonbibi-in-the-land-of-tigers.html

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Mutwa Embroidery, Dhordo, Gujarat

In the Banni village of Dhordo, we met an artist named Sofiya. She demonstrated the Mutwa style of embroidery that incorporated tiny, round mirrors that she cut, along with intricate stitching using the buttonhole and chain stitches. Motifs were mostly geometric, in keeping with Islamic rules forbidding depiction of human and animal forms. Even during this short demonstration, she had to stop a few times to tend to her young son. Therefore, it was understandable when she regrettably replied that she did not have any larger pieces to sell. Such exquisite stitch work is passed down from the mother and learned at an early age (5-7 years old), which is when a girl begins preparing dresses that she will embroider, as part of the dowry.

Due to the increasing salinity of the ground, receding of rivers, and loss of grasslands, the people of the region have shifted their main livelihood from cattle breeding (as well as ghee and butter products) to handicrafts. For such women, belonging to a cooperative where they can retain a higher percentage from their embroidery work becomes even more important.

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Copper Coated Iron Bells, Nirona

Located in a small dirt floor room whose main light source was the open door, was a young man who quietly demonstrated the craft of making copper coated iron bells. Currently, only two villages make these types of bells – Nirona and Zura. It is done by the Lohars of the Muslim community. Although the entire family is often involved (women and children help with the less technical aspects), only the men shape the bells and define their sound. These bells were traditionally hung around their necks of cattle and goats to help locate them. Now they may be made for musical instruments, wind chimes, and even for churches.

First the young man a rectangular strip of iron and shaped it into a cylindrical hollow. A cap was then formed by pounding metal into a die called a paroni. A Nero iron strip shaped like a horseshoe was then pushed through the Bell top to the inside of the Bell with both ends twisted and locked, forming the clasp loop at the top of the bell. We did not see the process of creating the burnished copper coating that includes baking the powdered brass & copper with stretched cotton. The metal is then buffed to create a lustrous polished tone. A shaped piece of dense hard wood was then hung in the inside to create the clanger. Using such simple tools and materials, it was amazing to hear their beautiful tonal quality.

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Siddi Saiyad Mosque, Ahmedabad

We then visited the Siddi Saiyad Mosque, constructed in 1572. From the backside we could see the several gorgeous stone jali windows. The depicted trees’ branches flowed and swirled, blending into the equally ornate background. Through the front side, the early morning sunlight poured through the tiny openings, casting the Tree of Life in shadow.

A short distance away was the Hathee Singh Jain temple, constructed in 1850. Here we admired the beautiful exterior figurative carvings.

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Jami Masjid, Ahmedabad

Our tour started off in the Old City of Ahmedabad. The commercial and cultural capital of Gujarat was founded in 1411, built by the Sultan Ahmed Shah who received an auspicious sign there. Of the four million people living in the city, about 370,000 lived in the old walled city section. Many of the older structures are built in the Indo-Saracenic style, a fusion of Hindu and Islamic architecture. The first mosque we visited, the Jami Masjid, was one structure built in this style. Built in 1423 by the city’s founder, this yellow sandstone mosque with its 260 pillars and 15 domes was constructed using pieces retrieved from demolished Hindu and Jain temples. Its minarets were no longer present, having collapsed in a 1819 earthquake.

Still early in the morning (but after the call to prayer), the mosque’s large courtyard and ablution pool were empty. Sitting on a simple hand-woven striped rug in between a row the mosque’s column was an elderly man with large prayer beads around his neck. Above, an intricate octagonal corbelled cupola reminded me of the ones in the Jain temple in Ranakpur, Rajasthan. Light streamed in from the large arched entrances and smaller windows with carved geometrical jali designs. At its capacity of 10,000 worshippers, this mosque would likely take on a far different feeling than the tranquil one we experienced.

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Srirangapattna and Gumbaz

Getting to the different sites in Srirangapattana gave us an opportunity to drive through the small-feel village. Youngsters wore shirts but no bottoms. Men stepped out of their house still brushing their teeth. Cattle rested in barns located right next to the near house. Villagers engaged in conversations by the tea and coffee stalls; others were busy tending to cattle. Kids played in the streets while men swept the ground with large palm branch fronds.

Another place we stopped at in the village was Gumbaz , tomb of Haidar Ali and Tipu Sultan. Dark outer columns contrasted with a creamy yellow exterior. Ivory-inlaid rosewood doors led the way into the domed structure that contained both tombs. Outside were more tombs, some of which were covered in decorative fabric. Lots of school children were there as well.

See more photos of Srirangapattna on my Flickr page

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Tomb of Akbar

In the Agra suburb of Sikandra, we visited the Tomb of Akbar, built between 1605 and 1613. Akbar actually planned his own tomb and selected a site, with his son Jahangir carrying out the construction. With equal precision as the Taj Mahal, this site is aligned with the points of the compass. Similar in plan to the Taj, there is a water channel (although much narrower) leading from the main entry gate to the actual tomb building. Like the buildings at Fatehpur Sikri and those (except the main building at the Taj), these were constructed out of red sandstone. The entrance was particularly ornate, built to imitate the Buland Darwaza at Akbar’s royal Fatehpur Sikri. Geometric designs of ochre, black, white, and terra-cotta covered its surface.

Walking up to the tomb building, my guide pointed out the triple religious elements; the square Hindu dome, below that the crosses, and the Muslim arches. While the façade wasn’t quite as decorative as the entry gate, the interior was a feast for the eye. Here there were geometric panel designs and others with gold floral ornamentation, divided with rib-like lines and containing contrasting colored backgrounds. Classic Arabic calligraphy ran horizontally in a border and along the edges of the arched windows. The false tomb was surprisingly simple, once again in a room with geometric latticed marble windows. The actual tomb is down below in a dingy room illuminated by a single lamp above and the basement opening pointing towards the entrance gate. For such a prosperous emperor, the tomb and its room were spartan and humble.

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Fatehpur Sikri - part two: Diwan-I-Khas, Ankh Michauli, Panch Mahal

One of the first buildings we visited was the Diwan-I-Khas, meaning “hall of private audiences.” The building’s floor and walls, along with the courtyard was once carpeted. In the center of the building was a massive pillar with a central platform and attached diagonal galleries. My guide explained that Akbar used to sit on the central chamber while the four galleries were for his ministers. Other theories have also been proposed, thinking that it wouldn’t be possible to house the entire Parliament in such as small structure. Characteristic of other buildings in Fatehpur Sikri, the Diwan-i-Khas contained symbols of all three religions.

Next to the Diwin-I-Khas was the treasury building, known as Ankh Michauli. Located in the interior walls of the building were deep recesses and secret coffers. At the bottom of the building’s molded struts were the heads of a truncated monster, which, according to Hindu legends, serves as guardians of treasures. Next to the building was a small kiosk. An inverted “V” shape connected the columns on each side. Having seeing this symbolism before, I enquired about its meaning. My guide explained that it contained the body of a crocodile and the head of an elephant – a very auspicious symbol. On the column I spotted the royal Muslim symbol as well as Christian crosses near the bottom – something my guide never noticed before.

Still within the administrative area of the complex is the royal pavilion known as Panch Mahal. This five-storey pavilion was once covered with lattice screens, enabling ladies of the harem to have a great view of goings-on below without being seen. The height of the structure also provided a cooling breeze from the nearby river. The top level might have been for the king. In the stone courtyard by the Panch Mahal was a massive Parcheesi board. According to my guide, the many women of the harem (as many as 5,000) were used as playing pieces.

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Taj Mahal, Agra

Like most travelers who overnighted it in Agra, I awoke early to arrive at the entrance gate of the Taj Mahal for opening time. My hotel was right by the East entrance gate, so I could just amble on over. After paying the high non-Indian price 750 rupees ($16) for a ticket, I walked through the Darwaza – the main gateway. Beyond the well-maintained garden divided into quadrants and straight pool-like canals lay the most famous building in the world – the Taj Mahal. Built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife who died trying to deliver their 14th child, this building is a mausoleum on a grand scale. It was built between 1631 and 1653 with the help of over 20,000 laborers.

Taj Mahal
On an early winter morning, the grounds were enshrouded with fog, adding to the feeling of tranquility – an almost dream-like state. Walking past the canals and lotus reflection pool, I was now at the entry of the white marble building. I followed the beautiful Arabic calligraphy framing the outer portion of the front entrance. Created from inlaid black onyx, the calligraphy is actually slightly larger as it goes upwards, counteracting the natural change in size with perspective and further emphasizing its perfection. Around the slightly pointed arch were organic designs comprised mainly of curvilinear vines and flowers made out of semi-precious stones. Symbols of the divine realm, flowers such as tulips, lilies, irises, poppies, and narcissuses are depicted on the Taj.

Photography forbidden inside, I had to be content with simply observing the tomb chamber. Light from windows illuminated the interior. In the center was Mumtaz Mahal’s cenotaph, raised on a platform. To the left was Shah Jahan’s cenotaph. I found the asymmetry of this rather odd, not fitting with the rest of the symmetrical balance. Actually, these are replicas. The originals are thought to be buried below ground. Surrounding the royal tombs was a marble filigree screen, carved from a single block of marble. Light filtered through the perforated screen cast mosaic-ike shadows on the tombs. Floral designs embellished the lower part of the building’s interior. Placing a pen flashlight up to a flower, its 64 pieces of translucent carnelian appeared to almost glow. From the large main room were smaller rooms – viewing areas for ladies. The women could walk through the deep openings and peer at the tombs through the rectangular window. Dappled light from the hexagonal latticed outer windows illuminated the floral designs, relief carvings framed by floral borders with semi-precious stones such as onyx, jade, lapis lazuli, turquoise, malachite, and carnelian. Four octagonal corner rooms of excellent acoustics were once used by the mullahs to chant the Koran and for musicians who played soft Indian and Persian songs.

To the right of the Taj Mahal building near the walls of the complex was a guesthouse, its red sandstone exterior and surface treatment identical to the mosque – the Jami Masjid on the opposite side. In front of the mosque was an ablutions pool. Because this is still a functioning mosque, the Taj Mahal is closed every Friday. The guesthouse was constructed to complete the symmetrical balance of the mosque. Above the main entrance of these buildings was a large white onion dome, balanced on each side with a smaller dome. Floral flourishes graced the pointed archways here as well. Standing in the doorway of the guesthouse, I had an excellent silhouetted framed view of the Taj Mahal.

Walking back to the entrance, the guide pointed out the two rows of 11 domes flanking the top of the Darwaza building. These represent the 22 years it took for the completion of the Taj Mahal.

More to come tomorrow. To see more photos of the Taj Mahal, visit my Flickr Page

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Hyderabad - Arrival

This is the first of several postings pertaining to my short trip to Hyderabad and on to Agra.

After a pleasant overnight train, I arrived in Andhra Pradesh's capital city of  a bit ahead of schedule. While waiting for a doctor friend (whom I met while traveling in Vizag) to arrive, I took in the scenes before me. Probably around 70°F (21°C), many of the locals were dressed for winter. Many had on the striped caps I so enjoyed seeing in Chennai. Others had on stocking caps. Earmuffs were also very common. Babies were snuggled in fleece sleepers. Some women had on winter jackets over their saris. As in any public place, autorickshaw drivers flooded the area, descending upon people as they stepped out of the train or past the exit. Taking an uncrowded local bus (which was much nicer than most I’ve ridden in Chennai), we arrived at the grounds of the public eye hospital my friend worked at. I was to stay in the guesthouse there. After washing up, we headed out to get some south Indian breakfast, accompanied by a doctor from Orissa who was there for training. We signed up for a local tour of Hyderabad, which would take the latter part of the morning and to the evening.

Hyderabad’s nearly equal proportion of Muslim and Hindu residents was immediately apparent – so very different than Chennai. Mosques, far from being rarities tucked in a few places as in Chennai, dominated the skyline. A large number of women wore burquas and hijabs. Saris were also present, but not nearly as prevalent. White caps of Muslims were perhaps even more noticed than the forehead markings of Hindus. Signs were often marked in Telegu (local language of Andhra Pradesh), Arabic, Hindu, and English. In Chennai, one would typically see Tamil and English.

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Around the Corner, Kairouan (Watercolor)

I have spent all my life within the walls of this most holy of cities, Kairouan. Muslims from all over Tunisia come to my city to worship Allah in our magnificent Grand Mosque. I am an imam at a smaller mosque and seek to train our young boys in the ways of Allah and Mohammed his Prophet. Even here in Kairouan, despite the Call to Prayer heard in every quarter (neighborhood), some of the younger generations are choosing to adopt materialistic, Western ways and move away from the wisdom contained in the Koran. It doesn’t help that there are so many tourists fanning throughout our city, flaunting their fancy cameras and revealing a great deal of skin and hair. Inch’allah, the boys under my care will heed my words. Ah, the Call to Prayer beckons me. It is time to head over to the mosque.

Artwork available for sale. 
Blank greeting cards can be purchased at Zazzle

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Bakr-Eid

Yesterday market the Muslim festival of Bakr-Eid, commemorating the day on which Abraham was asked by Allah to sacrifice his son Ishmael. When Abraham attempted to do this, Allah instead placed a lamb on the altar, content that Abraham would have obeyed his command. On this day, Muslims purchase a lamb and slaughter it, roasting the tender meat and sharing with family. I recall when living in Tunisia seeing huge flocks of sheep and lambs by the roadside for sale just before the Eid, then seeing these same fluffy creatures tied up by neighbor's homes. Then on the day of the festival, the streets became awash in blood. The last year I was in Tunis, I was invited to the home of one of my Muslim colleagues and enjoyed some of the tender meat.

Here in Chennai, the Muslim population is rather small and lacks the physical presence around my neighborhood - unlike the majority Hindu population. While in a rickshaw in northern Chennai, we went past a mosque from which males were exiting. No doubt they were heading home to enjoy the feast. So no lamb meat, guts or blood to show you - just a picture of the people.

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