March 24, 2014: An Anniversary

March 24, 2014 was a beautiful spring day in my life. The warmth of the spring sun invited early blossoming and birds to sing. On that day, I was in Seoul, South Korea, enjoying my first day of spring break. For residents of a place I called home for four years, the day was a reminder, not of rebirth and renewal, but of the start of events that forever changed their lives. March 24, 2014 was the 15th anniversary of the NATO bombing campaign in Serbia. For 78 days, bombs and missiles fell in Serbia as well as Montenegro, particularly in the Serbian capital of Belgrade.

Even when I was there from 2005-2008, reminders of the bombing were very prominent. On the same street with so many embassies (including the US Embassy), were these bombed-out shells, remnants of what used to be governmental buildings. Graffiti covered remnants of a former TV station where young people senselessly lost their lives. Far from being a clean-cut attack on the government, the citizens were profoundly affected. Over 2,000 civilians lost their lives, including 88 children. My colleagues who lived through the bombing described giving birth without electricity (one maternity hospital was actually bombed), the piercing noise of the missiles whizzing by and then lighting up the sky, seeking shelter during the raids and then observing the damage the following day, and much more. One friend, an excellent photographer and blogger, wrote a book from her perspective and experiences. She also talked about the everyday hardships, such as food and petrol shortages, wondering if the bridge would be there to get to school, how the International School of Belgrade dwindled down to a few students and teachers during that time, how a chemicals from a bombed factory in a nearby town flowed into the river, poisoning all the fish, and so much more. Through talking with her and others, it was powerful reminder of bias - the news media, government, etc. There is always more of the story we don't hear, and perspectives that are not shared - either by choice or neglect.

Below is a documentary of the bombing campaign which seeks to tell the story from some people with direct experiences. Not collateral damage or terrible accidents, but tragic events that forever changed their lives. When watching TV reports (or reading on Flipboard) of news events such as what is currently happening in places such as Syria, let us remember the human side of the events.

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Purple Labryinth

Purple Labryinth, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Another monsoon day in Chennai enabled me to work on this pastel painting of a tulip.

See Melissa's Artwork page on Facebook

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Roma - Europe's Ostracized

I'm making a switch back to Serbia for today's blog post after reading my friend's post and referring article about the plight of the Roma living in Belgrade. While living in Belgrade, I had written about the Roma on numerous occasions. So often I had looked down below the Gazella bridge in Belgrade at the large Roma settlement below while riding across this major bridge in the comfort of a car or bus. Below I saw tiny shacks made out of cardboard, scrap wood, tin, and other recycled items. Mud and garbage was ever present. Smoke often emanated from the shacks, sometimes wafting past satellite dishes. For the Roma living there, it wasn't much, but it was home.

Now it is home no more. Prompted by a planned upgrade of the bridge, the Roma were evicted, with some given as little as 20 minutes to gather their meager possessions and leave. Some were given "alternate housing" of metal containers located outside of the city. For a population that makes its living from recycling what others throw out (as well as other small things such as washing windows of cars at stoplights or playing the accordion/violin on the streets or buses), this was a move that posted major hardships. And that was for the "lucky" ones that actually were given housing.

The over 12 million Roma (otherwise known as Gypsies) of Europe face similar hardships. In addition, they are the continued subject of discrimination throughout the area. Even people who wouldn't consider saying racist remarks about others feel perfectly comfortable saying derogatory generalized remarks about the Roma. For the 500 years that the Roma have been in Europe, they have always been on the outside of mainstream society, with many Roma not learning the local language, going to school, and typically living in separate, squalid communities. Like the Roma living under Gazella Bridge, many don't have the proper identity cards that would make them eligible for the country's medical care and other services. Due to the continued acceptance of discrimination and desire for countries to beautify or modernize, the Roma get pushed farther and farther out of society and what they call home.

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My Serbian Friends in India

One of the wonderful things about teaching internationally is meeting others who are not only talented, dedicated teachers and wonderful people, but also share a fascination with other cultures and places. Two dear friends of mine from Serbia came to visit me this past Christmas break, enabling us to engage on new adventures through South India. Come join Pat, Olja, and me as we travel through Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, as presented through a series of blog posts.

In the photo above, Pat and Olja pose in the waters at Marina Beach in Chennai.

You can also find more photos on my Flickr site.

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Looking at the other side of things

I generally perceive the media as being biased and narrow-minded. Nonetheless, I scan the online news. This morning BBC reported about the Karadzic trial but also included a posting about Serbia's mixed feelings about the case. BBC, even during the bombing campaign and sanctions against Serbia was one of the few who actually sought to get input from residents of Belgrade, etc. Journalists who did this found a very different side. I would like to see this continue, as there is more than one side to the story and the public deserves to hear it.

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Bombing of Belgrade: Ten Years Later

Today marks the tenth anniversary of the start of NATO's bombing campaign on Serbia (then Yugoslavia). On March 24, 1999, NATO forces began their 11-week attack with the goal of driving Serb forces out of Kosovo. Although sites all around the country were targets, Belgrade was one of the hardest hit. Many of my former co-workers were in Belgrade during this stressful time, facing constant power outages, night skies lit up with bombs & resulting explosions like fireworks, fuel shortages, and never quite sure if the bridge they took to school would be destroyed. One even delivered her first child during the intense bombing and power outtage. At first, many huddled in shelters; as the weeks drew on, some began trying to sleep through it.

Nonetheless, the stress, trauma and scars still remain - both on the residents and buildings. Along some of the main arteries of downtown Belgrade including Knez Milosa, some of these bombed buildings lie much as they were when the fires died out. Eyesores such as these serve as reminders of an unpleasant past, fuel nationalist sentiments, and point out lack of needed funding to remove the remnants. The top photo is the former Interior Ministry. The bottom photo is of a TV station, destroyed while young workers were still in it.

In commemoration of the anniversary, BBC News has posted a short audio slideshow.

Update: My friend Pat has some photos posted on her blog that were taken of the bombings right from her apartment window.

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One Year On: "One Sunday Morning"

Just one year ago I was writing about a heavy snowfall which caused a freak chain reaction leading to an electrical surge that could have sent up the school in flames. That was in Belgrade, Serbia. Now, one year on, I am in Chennai India - definitely a world away. With "fall" temperatures hovering around the low 80's (27°C), snowfall here is but a foreign concept. Empty snow-covered hills are replaced with flat, bustling, puddle-filled streets. Instead of the Sava River view from my apartment, I smell the Adyar River. I now go to a large purpose-built school instead of a small one whose main buildings are villas. Serbian and American names are replaced by Korean and Indian ones. Getting around consisted mainly of hopping on a tram, bus, or walking. Now I get to school with an auto rickshaw.

I miss my friends and colleagues in Belgrade. I enjoyed the change of seasons, the old architecture, and ease of getting around. I remind myself that India has much to offer - so much to see, great shopping opportunities, and exposure to cultures totally unfamiliar to me. Although I will never blend in here, I do look forward to getting more familiar with Chennai, meeting more of the local people and experiencing its many cultural events and various sights.

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Do Videnja Yugo!

This morning I scanned the BBC website as I normally do every morning before I go to school. One article piqued my interest - Yugo production grinds to a halt. These cheap ($4,000) cars continue to be a mainstay in Serbia, owned by young and old alike. These cars definitely would not win prizes for their aesthetics & design (boxy & plain), nor do they win praises for safety ratings. Nonetheless, they continue to be a source of pride for Serbians, as one of the remaining symbols of former Yugoslavia. Like the country of its namesake, now the production line for Yugos is no longer. Do Videnja and farewell!

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Snoozing in Skadarlija

This calico cat is enjoying a rest on the cobblestone streets of Skadarlija, the Bohemian quarter of Belgrade. One of the most well-known streets of Belgrade, the pedestrian Skadarska Street is lined with cafés and restaurants, including some dating back to around 1900. It was here that poets, writers, and artists liked to hang out. Even today, Skadarlija attracts a large amount of visitors who stroll through the well-preserved cobblestone streets or stop to enjoy the local specialities - grilled meats and a pint of beer.

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Gusle Player

This man is playing the gusle, a one-stringed Serbian traditional instrument. Traditionally, the gusle would accompany a vocalist who would sing patriotic epics. Note that this elderly man is wearing the shajkaca hat and other clothing typical of rural Serbia. What a contrast to the pink sweatpants young woman with the cellphone!

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Construction at St. Sava's Cathedral

Every few months I like to go to St. Sava's Cathedral in Belgrade to check on its construction updates. While the exterior has been finished for a number of years now, much remains to be done to its massive interior.

As I approached the cathedral, its bells began tolling. Inside, the soothing recorded sounds of a choir greeted me. Just imagine when the real choir members sing their praises - with a choir seating capacity of 800 members!
I noticed an absence of large equipment inside the church. Actually, even these large construction vehicles are dwarfed in the church, 70 meters at its highest point. Piles of carved marble normally scattered around the floor were less conspicuous. Tour guides were pointing out aspects of the construction, with its already impressive green columns and carved white arches. To the left of the entrance, a large mosaic panel was well underway. The left gallery actually looked like a functioning worship area, complete with an altar, multiple podiums with icon paintings, and rich red-colored carpets. Thee area right gallery served as the place to light the candles for the living and the dead. Despite a rope cordoning off the front area, two older women approached the altar there, the light obscured partly by scaffolding.
Looking up, one only sees gray concrete cupolas. Already a beautiful play in light, it will be an impressive sight once the surface is covered with mosaics, including Christ in the central dome with eyes the width of 3 meters.

Outside piles of white carved marble slabs and sections of columns awaited their proper place in this magnificent structure. The sight reminded me of some of the Roman sites in Tunisia, portions of former temples and homes in the landscape. Children leaned over into the dancing fountains, located next to the library. The ubiquitous ice cream stand was present, with plenty of customers enjoying the tasty treats. People sat in the many benches along the flower landscaped grounds.
The bells tolled again. It was time for me to leave. Perhaps for the last time.

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Cleaning out the Old Stuff

This weekend I went for a walk and on a street leading to Belgrade's huge St. Sava church, I saw some unusual items parked next to the sidewalk. Two old Heidelbergs - printing presses dating back to the 1950's had recently been lifted out of an office window several stories up.





I didn't see the actual event, but I did see the crane, still present. Loaded onto a flatbed were some newer presses. This must be the same place where my friend described seeing an ordinary (but older) desk being lifted down (as seen in her blog) just days earlier. Indeed, a rather odd, and likely expensive way of moving!

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Eurovision 2008 - Gracious Serbian Hosts

Most music lovers that descended upon Belgrade for the annual Eurovision contest have now gone. Belgrade organizers received many compliments for how organized this year's contest was. Tickets for the events were sold out months ago and hotels were at capacity. The downtown walking street was more festive than normal and the usual fireworks filled the night sky. In areas around the competition arena, graffiti was painted over and police presence was slightly higher, but all was peaceful. While Serbia made it into the finals, the winner was Dima Bilan from Russia for his performance of Believe.
Congratulations Belgrade on a successful hosting of an international event.

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Gardoš - Hungary's Imprint in Belgrade

This past Sunday I visited Zemun. Although a municipality of Belgrade along the other side of the Danube River, Zemun has more of an Austro-Hungarian feel. Perched on a hill above Zemun is the area known as Gardoš. It is easiest to get up here following narrow cobblestone pathways and stairways - definitely much more of a pedestrian-friendly area. At the top of Gardoš is the Millennium Tower, built in 1896 over the ruins of a medieval fortress as commemoration of 1,000 years of Hungarian settlement in the region. (This was the southernmost city of the Austro-Hungarian Empire). It was one of several millennium towers built at the time within Hungary. Although in need of restoration (broken windows and covered with graffiti), the Millennium Tower (otherwise known as Janos Hunyadi) is still a popular spot in Zemun for its great overlook of the Danube and Zemun, and its adjacent restaurants. While you're up there, check out Zemun's largest graveyard.

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Screamin' for Sladoled

If the number of ice cream (called sladoled in Serbian) stands on the walking street Knez Mihailova is any indication, Serbs love their ice cream. Sitting at a café on an intersection of this street, I could count 9 ice cream stands within easy view. Walk a few feet, and you'll be sure to find more. From the commercial types on popsicle sticks to the rich creamy types scooped into a waffle cone, this tasty treat is enjoyed by all ages and budgets. On warm days, nothing beats a sladoled!In this picture alone, there are 4 ice cream stands and another just behind the foliage

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Pipin' Hot

Along with yogurt and turkish coffee, bread, or hleb as it is called in Serbian, is a staple food for the average resident. On my walk to school each morning, I invariably see people carrying a plastic bag with fresh bread, its golden crust sticking out of top. Breads such as this type I photographed from a window in Zemun, are often eaten plain - without any butter, jelly, etc. With the absence of the multitude of preservatives found in many breads in the US, this bread, with its intoxicating fresh smell, must be eaten within a couple of days - if it lasts that long. Unused bread can often be found in a bag hanging from the side of a garbage dumpster, ready for the taking by either the Roma (or other hungry "dumpster divers") or birds who help themselves.

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Plenty O'Flowers

Flowers now take center stage in many of Belgrade's green markets. Everyone seems to be in the mood to buy the colorful array of of annuals. It's one of the few things that can brighten the otherwise drab Communist-era concrete buildings. When walking through my residential neighborhood of Senjak, I enjoy peeking above the walls or through the gates of homes, seeing the arrangements of flowers. Right now the rose bushes, sometimes towering quite high, are in their glory. The city of Belgrade has also undertaken more efforts at embellishing roundabouts, parks, and other areas.

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Upcoming Elections

This Sunday (May 10) is election day for the Serbian parliament. Billboards all over the country display political ads. With the iconic St. Sava Cathedral in the distance, this sign, put up by the party of the Prime Minister who resigned, encourages people to support Serbia. If they had their way, Serbia would become more nationalistic, leaning away from the West and EU, and towards Russia. Let's hope this doesn't happen.

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Kittens in the Air

It's a lovely spring day. In the air, fluffs from trees float lazily in the air. Known as mače (Serbian word for kittens), these fuzzy specimens are very adept at finding their way into your mouth or nose, not to mention aggravating spring allergies. On the ground, they sometimes congregate and form "tumbling tumbleweeds."

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Chickens on Strike?

On Friday (Good Friday for Orthodox Serbs), I went to the local green market. Mass quantities of eggs were being sold, with a majority of the booths dedicating at least some space to the light brown-colored ja jas. Most of these eggs would be hard boiled and dyed with either brightly-colored commercial dyes or the traditional method using boiled onion skins for coloring and a leaf resist for a design. Not having my camera with me that day, I decided I would go and take some photos of the eggcellent sales the following day at the downtown market, Zeleni Venac. Alas, with the exception of a few eggs including these already dyed eggs nestled in between the flowers, the jajas were not to be found. Perhaps as in Chicken Run, the Serbian hens organized and decided enough is enough....

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