Churches of India

Inspired by an article in the current issue of  Culturama, I decided to post some my favorite photographs of churches. South India, particularly the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala,  has a large number of churches, as does Goa. (Northeastern states such as Mizoram have an even greater percentage of Christians - up to 90%, but I never traveled there). Christianity came to South India around 52 AD via the disciple Thomas. He was martyred in Chennai twenty years later. While the colorful Hindu temples of Tamil Nadu are spectacular, the regional churches are also majestic. A variety of architectural styles can be seen, influenced largely by origins of missionaries. 

Read the article in Culturama for information about these and other churches.

Which is your favorite? Do you have other noteworthy Indian churches to share?

Velankanni Basilica, Tamil Nadu

Church of the Immaculate Conception, Pondicherry

Church at Little Mount, Chennai (Tamil Nadu)

Church of the Sacred Heart, Pondicherry

Sacred Heart exterior, Pondicherry

Idaikattur Church, Tamil Nadu

Church along the backwaters of Kerala

San Thome Basilica, Chennai (Tamil Nadu)

Oriyur, Tamil Nadu

St. Philomena Church, Mysore (Karnataka)

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Steeple Workers

Early in the morning, the workers were already busy performing exterior cleaning and maintenance to a local church. Reaching the roof and steeple was a quick and easy process. I immediately was reminded of a scene I had seen in Kerala, India. 

This worker utilized ropes (likely coir ropes locally made from coconut fibers) and simple scaffolding to climb up and around in order to do some maintenance work. Keeping it simple, he donned a lungi and went barefoot. 

I'd have to say, the Kerala steepleworker made a much more interesting photo....

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Refreshing Coconuts

Coconuts are a major part of South Indian life. In Kerala, it is an essential ingredient in almost every meal. Tender green (young) coconuts are a favorite drink, renowned for its refreshing rehydrating qualities, particularly in the horrid heat of the summer. With temps hovering in the mid 100's (40-43°C) here in Chennai,  this inexpensive drink is a sure bet.

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Merry CHRISTmas

From the streets of Pondicherry to the coconut groves of Kerala, some in India are celebrating the most important birthday recorded in human history. No, not a Bollywood (or Kollywood) movie star, and not even that of a politician. It is someone who grew up in very humble circumstances - much like the village huts of the India of today. This individual was Jesus -or Immanuel, which means God with us. I pray that the Christians of India will hold fast to the true reason for Christmas - the birth of our Savior. Happy birthday, Jesus! 

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Cochin, Kerala

The drive to coastal Cochin was a downward one, with the curves of Munnar giving way to leveled, straight roads. We passed through more towns with their share of election posters and deafening announcers, as well as more Christian establishments. Cows seemed to enjoy particular road status in these towns, ambling around and laying down wherever they felt like it.

Just before reaching the modern town of Ernakulam, we stopped at a palace now converted into a museum. The heat and humidity immediately met us as we stepped outside the car. Definitely ice cream weather! The increased traffic of this larger city was quite apparent; at least the roads were straight. That afternoon, we went to the area known as Cochin and saw sights such as the Chinese fishing nets, the rather simple St. Francis Church (one of India’s earliest European churches), Paradesi Synagogue (India’s oldest synagogue), a spice warehouse where workers were placing ginger into large sacks, and a bit of shopping.

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Munnar, Kerala

The 3½ hour drive to Munnar was once again dominated by narrow roads that wound itself up and through the highlands. Our Kerala driver deftly handled the hairpin (and tighter) curves and registered no anger when others took great risks to pass. Churches dotted the hilly landscape and various political parties made their presence seen and heard. Due to the dry season, many of the area’s waterfalls were slowed to a trickle. Bridges took us over rather barren riverbeds, whose markings indicated fast flows when it rained. Lush, green dense forests framed one or both sides of the road. Nearing Munnar, tea plantations carpeted the steep land. Bright patches of color dotted the plantations, indications of female tea pickers. In contrast to the emerald green tea bushes, some fields were brown, indicating freshly trimmed bushes. Cows ambled on or alongside the road, seemingly unconcerned about its safety. For the next two nights, we made a cottage up an incredibly steep road (or really a path) our base.

From there, we made day trips around the area, visiting the Eravikulam National park where we got up close to its endangered Nilgiri Tahr (a rare horned animal related to sheep), several lakes and dams, a tea plantation factory, and even a Kathakali (Kerala’s classical dance-drama). The climate in Munnar was quite pleasant and even a bit chilly in the foggy morning, a feeling I knew would be short-lived.

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Critters in the Reserve, and an Elephant Ride

The following morning after breakfast, we took a walk around the hotel within the reserve. Trees in the area were massive, towering high into the bright sky. Some trees seemed to flow like ribbons, their sculpted moss and lichen-dotted roots disappearing at the ground. Standing at the base within these bands made a person feel like an insignificant dwarf. Rhesus monkeys poked their heads from around the trunk, while a baby monkey clung to its mother. Seemingly unfazed by the presence of people, several wild hogs and a baby strolled past. Signs in multiple languages warned people not to feed the animals.

Just outside the reserve, we did a touristy thing and rode an elephant, which easily carried all four of us. The mahout led the elephant through the forest, past brilliant flowers, ferns, and jackfruit trees. Our petite mahout had the elephant pause occasionally so he could take photos with my mother’s camera, sometimes commanding the elephant to pose and curve its trunk.

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Periyar Lake and Tiger Reserve, Thekkady

Heading towards Thekkady, the roads transitioned rather quickly to those that were narrow and winding. Through small towns, additional congestion made the drive more challenging, especially with animals and carts vying for road space. Drivers were no less patient, and passed wherever they could, transforming the 2-lane road into four and barely returned to the “correct” side as an oncoming vehicle passed. Witnessing such driving habits was a bit disconcerting for my family unaccustomed to such sights.

Spotted throughout the area were churches of various designs and colors. Many were perched rather high up, some even on rock. Interspersed, one could find tower-like “churchettes” with a single narrow lower space in which a statue was placed. Also quite prominent were Catholic schools, attended by students of varying faiths. The presence of upcoming elections was everywhere, from signs and posters plastered everywhere, to the mini trucks with a person in back, whose message was projected through obnoxiously loud speakers.

Up near Thekkady, forests of rubber trees and carpeted fields of tea bushes dominated, replacing the coconut palm trees of the backwaters. Trees soared to towering heights, with filtered light dappling on large ferns.

Although we arrived too late for a bullock ride, we were able to take a boat ride on the Periyar Lake within the tiger reserve. It took a while for the boat to depart, as each person in the boat had to have a life jacket firmly secured by park personnel. Although we initially complained about the clumsiness of the jackets, they did serve an alternate purpose, keeping us slightly warmer and drier when rain blew into the boat. The boat slowly chugged its way in a pre-determined path, carefully avoiding the many petrified tree trunks scattered throughout, evidence that this area was flooded in 1895 when a dam was constructed. Perched on the gnarly tree trunks were birds, on the lookout for fish. Along with the more common Cormorants, small Kingfishers were also spotted. Despite the blowing rain obscuring the view, we were able to spot bucks, bison, monkeys, and elephants.

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Backwaters Houseboat Tour in Kerala

Following a rather uneventful overnight train ride from Chennai, our driver cheerfully met us and quickly took us to the spot in Aleppy where our houseboat was waiting. Our houseboat was fancier than the first one I had taken, with this one having AC in both bedrooms (each with their own bathroom), a mini upper deck, and even a dish for satellite TV. A few of the houseboats were quite massive, accommodating around 200 people on the top level – perfect for parties. Once in the backwaters, welcoming coconut drink in hand, the pace became relaxed, with plenty of time for gazing at rural life along the riverbanks and river as source of transportation.

Aside from the boat motor hum, the sound echoing through the area was that of beating clothes. Both men and women engaged in this activity, lathering up the cloth in the river, wringing it out and beating it mercilessly on a big rock. Likewise, the river was a favorite place to bathe, with the soap and shampoo disappearing after some successive dunks in the water.

Although the touristic houseboats dominated the water scene, the waterways were shared by locals. People rowed across the river, ferrying passengers, beverages, and cattle feed. Larger water taxis sped by, transporting people to various villages. Along the shore and in small boats, men went fishing with a pole and/or string or threw out small nets into the water. On the narrow shore, motorbikes and bicycles were the favored means of transportation.

Pampered for a day, all we needed to do was enjoy the view, take photos, chat, and eat the food prepared for us. In the back of the boat, meals were prepared for us, including fried fish, coconut-flavored dahl, beets (also with coconut milk), green beans, chai, and fried banana. With the plentitude of coconut palms and banana plants, as well as fish in the river, our tasty meals made us feel part of the locality.

Poking through the green fronds of palm trees were variations of Kerala’s distinctive architecture. Many of the slanted roofs were covered in terracotta tiles and trimmed with decorative wood. In addition to some colorful Hindu temples, the backwaters included many Christian churches and schools. While most of the churches lacked steeples attached to the roof, they all proudly displayed the Cross. On buildings, walls, and even tree trunks, one could find political posters (accompanied by political announcements shouted through speakers), vivid reminders of the upcoming elections.

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Syrian Christian Kerala Home

A marked contrast to the homes of Tamil Nadu, Kerala homes have steep roofs and employ wood and laterite, both of which are abundant in this neighboring state. Such long, sloping roofs help protect the walls from the heavy monsoon season. The ornate gables, so prevalent in Kerala homes, are not only decorative, but also serve as vents, enabling the house to "breathe" and stay cool, particularly in the summer. The gable in the Christian home above had some vents in the shape of crosses.

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Beachgoers, Aleppy

Kerala has many beaches that are popular with both locals and tourists alike. The white sands of the Aleppy beach were a favorite for families taking in the pleasures of the sand and surf. The mood was very positive and lively, smiles and laughing abounding. 

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Madumalai Wildlife Sanctuary

Wanting to have as much time as possible to also enjoy Mysore located 155 km away, we reluctantly headed onwards after buying some tea and scented sandalwood oil. We passed by tea fields appearing to flow down steep hills, some of which contained speckles of distant women picking. Suddenly the scene would change, varying between groves of bamboo plants, thin, tall trees, some banyan trees, and those of a more tropical type. A sign indicated that we were now in the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary, the largest in Tamil Nadu and perhaps one of the most important in the southern region. This sanctuary borders the Bandipur National Park in Karnataka and the Wynad Sanctuary in Kerala. Although we did not spot any tigers, sambar, antelope, leopards, or panthers present in the area, we did spot some elephants, wild boar, peacocks, common langur, and bonnet macaques. In addition to the variety of traffic with wheels, we now had to contend with the four-legged type – elephants on the road moving along large bundles of grassy branches. Along the way to Mysore we also passed by large strands of coconuts dangling from a tree with the seller sitting nearby ready with straws and a knife. Shepherds (men and women) carefully tended their sheep and goats, an umbrella in the left hand just in case the weather changed. Women carried large bundles of twigs, walking gracefully towards the village. So many wonderful photographic scenes passed us by.

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Fog-Enshrouded Hill, Munnar (Pastel)

Like most days in the hill station, a thick layer of fog rolled through Munnar. It seemed to slither over the contours of the tea hills, diverging as it encountered a tree. A hint of a warm sunrise tried to make its way into a predominantly cool palette. A feeling of peace enveloped the whole landscape.

Artwork available for sale. 
Blank greeting cards can be purchased at Zazzle

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Scents of the Spice Warehouse (Color Pencil)

As I grab peppers to place them into the sack, their deep aroma comes to the forefront, mingling with the other spices but commanding greater attention. Sealing up the bag, I add it to the pile in one of the rooms of this old warehouse, ready to be shipped to other parts of India. Stacked against the weathered walls of this Portuguese building are spices such as cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon, all bounties of this fertile land God has provided us. Every day I help load labeled sacks onto boats, a process that has occurred here for well over a thousand years. After many years of work here, the spices have entered deep into my skin’s pores, their scents perfuming me even when I am away from the warehouse.

Artwork available for sale. 
Blank greeting cards can be purchased at Zazzle

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Picking the Tea Leaves, Munnar (Color Pencil)

Day after day I am out here in these lush tea fields, an endless sea of green leaves waiting to be picked. Wading through the dense bushes, I carefully pick the mature leaves with my small, nimble hands from each branch, placing the pickings in the bag on my back. To help break up the monotony of the job, the other women and I sing songs. Many of these songs are in Tamil, as a large number of us are from Tamil Nadu. I don’t particularly like this job, but the company provides basic housing, gives me a small stipend, and most importantly, provides schooling for our young daughter. The cool, fresh air is pleasant enough, but I miss my home village. After a few more years here in Munnar, I hope that my husband and I will have saved enough money to return home, to the land of the Tamils.

Artwork available for sale. 
Blank greeting cards can be purchased at Zazzle

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Happy Onam

Today marks the festival of Onam, a harvest festival originating in the South Indian state of Kerala. Nowdays Onam is celebrated in other states of India as well, particularly in Tamil Nadu, as it is the place of origin for many currently residing there. During Onam, multicolored floral decorations are laid out in ornate patterns on the ground in front of one's home. Due to reduced availability (and higher cost) of such flowers here in Tamil Nadu, colored powders supplement the more pure pookkalam designs. A lamp is traditionally placed in the middle of the pookkalam pieces.

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Scents of the Spice Warehouse

Spices have gone through the port of Cochin (Fort Kochi) in Kerala for thousands of years. Aromatic mixtures of many spices filled the air of the rather dilapidated warehouse, the contents of which are still destined for domestic and international markets.

Color pencil. See more of my India artwork:

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Christmas in India

Mid-December I began noticing bright decorations hanging in some shops, both in Chennai and then in Pondicherry. Large 3-dimensional colorful stars, garland, fake Christmas trees, lights, and cheap Chinese ornaments could be purchased by the passersby. In Pondicherry vendors around one of the old churches were selling sizeable Nativity sets.

India’s pervasive culture also has managed to intermingle with western Christmas traditions, forming a unique Indian flavor. In some homes people decorate a banana or mango tree instead of a pine tree. Instead of candles, some use the small clay oil lamps commonly used for Diwali. In the highly touristic site of Goa, huge celebrations take place on Christmas. Seen as the cradle of Christianity in India since St. Thomas arrived on the Kerala shores in 52 AD, Christmas is a large celebration throughout the south. Stew and appams (pancakes made of a batter of rice flour and coconut milk) are enjoyed in Kerala. In other south Indian states, murukku (a fried pretzel made of lentils and rice flour) are enjoyed. Rose cookies and other sweets are shared. Christmas services with their sweet hymns and chanting are accompanied with drums. Gift exchange is also common.

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Steeple Scaffolding

This image is "scaffolded" from the previous construction photo theme. While taking photos of a Kerala-style church building in Trivandrum, I found an old man staring back at me when looking through my lens. Although the steeple was not very tall, the construction scene still looked rather precarious.

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St. Thomé Basilica, Chennai

San Thomé Basilica, located near Marina Beach in Chennai, is one of only three churches in the world built over the tomb of an Apostle of Jesus - St. Thomas, otherwise known as “Doubting Thomas.” An emboldened St. Thomas came to India in 52AD on the West Coast, preaching and setting up churches in the region of Kerala before making his way to the Eastern side of India, including Chennai. It was on a hill now known as “St. Thomas Mount” where he was martyred. The present-day church was erected over his tomb.

In 1956, Pope Pius XII elevated the church to the rank of a minor Basilica. Pope John Paul II also visited this important religious site.

San Thomé Basilica is built in the Gothic style, a distinctive landmark of Chennai. A large church, it is 155 feet in height with a nave of 112 x 33 feet and is filled with tall stained glass windows depicting St. Thomas and the other Apostles. The front of the church has a large crucifix sculpture of Jesus, with its kind eyes transfixed upon the viewer.

Off to one side a sculpture of Madonna and Child - “Our Lady of Mylapore” was encased behind glass, framed by a “curtain” of jasmine and other garlands of flowers. The basilica also includes a smaller adjoining chapel for mass, a small museum, gift shop, and a recently added entrance to the lower level where worshipers and tourists alike can view St. Thomas’ tomb without impacting services above.

I received a personal tour of the basilica, led by a young travel agent who proudly traces his ancestry back as a descendant of one of the original “St. Thomas Christians”. Some of the most important events in his life and that of his family took place within these walls – as well as being a central figure in daily life. The sky, initially a bright blue when we arrived, was now fading into an early evening sunset. In front of the church several men made preparations for carrying a smaller replica of a praying Mary around the church grounds.

See more photos on my website. For more information on San Thomé Basilica, visit this official website

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