My next main destination was Fatehpur Sikri, the abandoned capital city built by the Mughul emperor Akbar. The son of Humayan (of whose tomb I saw this past spring in Delhi), Akbar ruled the empire during one of its greatest periods. The Mughul capital for 14 years, Fatehpur Sikri was built in 1571 and completed in 1585. The site was chosen in honor of the Sufi saint Salim Chishti, who predicted the birth of Akbar’s son. Built mostly of red sandstone, the complex displays the translation of the emperor’s visionary philosophy, one that sought to recognize and unite the religions of Christianity, Hinduism, and Islam. In fact, Akbar was married to three women – one from each of these religions; a local Hindu, Portuguese Christian, and a Muslim from Turkey. Fatehpur Sikri wasn’t the capital city for long – probably only 14 years. It likely was abandoned due to lack of water, a particular problem in this arid region. Much of its treasures were plundered after Akbar left. Ironically, the same arid conditions that influenced the abandonment of the city also helped preserve the structures.
The 40 km (25 mile) drive from Agra was pleasant, due in part to the maintained toll road. Typical of India, cows ambled on and alongside the road. Sheep and goat herds roamed the landscape. Patties of cowpies were drying next to the road. Other cowpies were mounded up in tall beehive shapes, ready to be used for fuel. Large fields of mustard filled the landscape, its yellow flowers indicating readiness for its harvest of oil. Other fields contained potatoes and barley. Absent were rice paddies that dominate South India’s countryside, as this area doesn’t receive enough rain for such a water-intensive crop. Horses and a few camels pulled carriages and carts in this rural area.
A pleasant early morning, the guide and I decided to forego the exorbitant auto rickshaw price quotes and instead walk from the parking lot to the enormous complex. Remnants of walls and buildings in the same red sandstone could be found dotting the area. We then entered the main gate and into the Royal Complex. This portion contained private palaces and the administrative offices of Akbar’s government. Grassy porticoes surrounded a grassy area augmented with manicured bushes and flowerbeds. Here too fog enshrouded the buildings, reducing contrast and making photography a bit more challenging.
One of the first buildings we visited was the Diwan-I-Khas, meaning “hall of private audiences.” The building’s floor and walls, along with the courtyard was once carpeted. In the center of the building was a massive pillar with a central platform and attached diagonal galleries. My guide explained that Akbar used to sit on the central chamber while the four galleries were for his ministers. Other theories have also been proposed, thinking that it wouldn’t be possible to house the entire Parliament in such as small structure. Characteristic of other buildings in Fatehpur Sikri, the Diwan-i-Khas contained symbols of all three religions.
Still within the administrative area of the complex is the royal pavilion known as Panch Mahal. This five-storey pavilion was once covered with lattice screens, enabling ladies of the harem to have a great view of goings-on below without being seen. The height of the structure also provided a cooling breeze from the nearby river. The top level might have been for the king. In the stone courtyard by the Panch Mahal was a massive Parcheesi board. According to my guide, the many women of the harem (as many as 5,000) were used as playing pieces.
