Emerging from our air-conditioned train car, we now were in Kollam, a port town 71 km north of Trivandrum. Piling out of the 25-cent ride rickshaw, we were at the banks of the water, where backwaters tours could be arranged. After some negotiations in price and package, the designated taxi driver arrived to take us to the start of our canoe portion of the trip. Immediately the driver came up to the tour operator and pushed the then-stunned man. One of my colleagues came to the aid of the tour operator, breaking up the provocation through her gestures and forceful voice. After completing a written police statement, two auto rickshaws took us instead.
Canoe Ride in Ashtumudi Lake
The rather large canoe hewn out of thick dark wood then pushed off into the waters of the Ashtumudi Lake. Sharing the waters were some other can
oes and the large Kerala houseboats known as kettuvallams. Soon we were in the more secluded canals and river waterways around Munroe Island. Coconut palm trees cast strong reflections on the still brown waters. Flowering bushes dotted the river edge, shored up with a protective stone barrier. Along the meandering paths walked young women clad in brightly colored saris and salwars, chatting merrily as they gestured with one hand and carried an umbrella in the other. Young children emerged out of their small homes, waving to us with unrestrained cheeriness. The soothing sound of Kerala music wafted through the air. Goats munched on the abundant green grass. Chickens clucked as they ran across the yard. Cormorants dried their spread wings, sitting on a branch. Occasionally we spotted a Kingfisher bird, perching in a tree or on electrical wire. Kite birds circled above.
Village Walk
A few times we got out of the canoe to meet some of the villagers. Here we observed a demonstration in which the fibers of the coconut were transformed into strands of rope, doubled and then twisted. Most of this rope would be exported to the US. At another residence we saw an assortment of herbs and plants used for medicine and food. Scattered about the yard were plants such as peppermint, tumeric, little hot peppers, ginger, black pepper, a special plant for the diabetic wife, beetle nut tree, jack fruit, pineapple, and tapioca plants. Watching the elder man of the house deftly hack open a coconut for us to drink, one teacher asked if people sometimes cut off a finger. In a convincing tone of voice, our boatsman replied “Well of course. Even this man has a finger missing!” Looking carefully, we realized that our boatman was once again exercising his sense of wit and humor.
Inquiring about the population of Munroe Island, our young boater told us that about 30% work in the Middle East. This probably helped supplement the sustenance farming, dominated by rice. Considering the 99% literacy rate of Kerala, I hope that those workers are able to utilize their education. Scattered throughout the island were Hindu temples, many of which employed the distinctive Kerala architecture including the red tiled steep sloping roof, triangular windows and entryway mantles. According to our guide, 98% of the islanders are Hindu, with only one large family being Christian.Through the Canals
Going deeper into the canals we came across a pond-like area full of lily pads. Our guide scooped up one waterlily and deftly transformed it into a necklace with alternating color “beads.” In some areas we had to duck way down to avoid hitting the narrow bridges. Boating past a net-covered fish farm we noticed a dog peering out of a crude open-air doghouse.
Back onto the main waters we spotted the destructive contributions of man. Plastic bottles floated in the water. A floating pool of gas trailed a houseboat.
Contrasting this was the emerging sunset, casting a pink hue over sky and water. Still hearing the radio of the female singer, the scene was idyllic as our boatman poled his way along the final stretch.
Kollam Town and Beach
By the time we arrived in Kollam, it was dark. Dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we walked into the section of own near our hotel. Enjoying a very tasty meal of spicy chicken, we also sampled pastry at a very clean bakery prominently displaying its Christian faith.
Having some time before catching the ferry the following morning, we went to the beach just across the road from the hotel. All along the beach men could be seen squatting, using the sand as a litter box. We knew we would have to watch our step as we proceeded to the water.
Scattered throughout the beach were single flip-flops and sandals, reminding me of the lone socks that emerge from the washing machine/dryer. The strong riptide and waves kept crashing in, preventing us from getting to the calmer area beyond. Considering the dubious cleanliness of the sea, perhaps it was just as well.
See photos of the backwaters around Kollam
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