Mylapore Festival - Kolam Contest

On Sunday I attended the kolam contest at the Mylapore Festival. This annual event (which I attended last year as well) invites participants to transform a square section of pavement into a beautiful design using only white rice flour. Most of the designs employed symmetry (particularly radial symmetry), but a few such as the peacock below deviated from tradition. Onlookers, comprised of locals and a few tourists, watched participants ranging from young girls to grannies showcasing their best design. Upon completion, people had a chance to vote for their favorite kolam. Which would you pick?

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Darasuram Temple

Our first site of the day was the Airavateshwara Temple in the village of Darasuram. It took us longer to get there, as our driver (like most Indians I have met) did not know how to read maps and instead relied on guessing or asking locals. The road we took from one main town was a smaller one, which meant a longer, but more scenic drive.

Built in 1146-1173 by the Chola leader King Rajaraja II, this temple may be small in size but its beauty equals that of Thanjuvur and other Tamil temples. Walking past the kids playing soccer on the green grass outside of the temple’s high walls, we reached the large gopura gateway set a meter below ground. The large door was closed, but a small sub-door was open. Through it I saw a woman taking a nap. As I was about to walk through it, she woke up and opened up the larger door. Placing our shoes off to the side (all temples require you to remove your shoes), we entered the courtyard. Off to one side we could see a few men and a couple of women engaged in construction work. It was reassuring to see maintenance and restoration efforts taking place. Some wore sandals or flip-flops, while others carried on their work in bare feet. The women wore saris and the men had dhothis tied around their waist.
Rubble or sand was piled into a shallow basket, placed on the head, and taken away. Like many Indians, they asked us to take their photos. By now my two friends were quite used to this request.
First we visited the mandapa, climbing up the stairs to reach the open porch. Each square pillar was filled with relief carvings of various sizes, from the top to the bottom. The bottoms of the pillars on the outside consisted of a rather large mythical creature that had the face of an elephant, horns of a goat, and body of a lion. Dancers and musicians, along with the usual gods and goddesses were common themes on the pillars. Even the stone ceiling was decorated with swirling designs, flowers, and dancers. One row of pillars led to the inner sanctuary, guarded by two sari-clad sculptures and a Nandi facing the dark interior. Along the wall I saw some fine figurative sculptures made in black basalt including images of various gods and goddesses.

Back down the steps, I pointed out that the mandapa was in the shape of a chariot, pulled by horses and behind these rearing creatures a wheel. An elephant was on the other corner of the stairwell, perhaps also pulling the chariot. Along the sides of the main temple one could see sculptures in niches and frescoes of other figures. Red appeared to be the dominant color, but green and gold were also visible. How beautiful must this temple have been at one time! Up higher, one could see a profusion of sculptures of figures, including some that looked more demon-like. Although mostly the color of the original stone, patches of faded color still remained here as well. Near the base of the temple, dancers appeared in motion, swaying to the music. Along a smaller stairway I saw a clever motif in which the head of an elephant morphed into that of a bull.

Unlike most places in India, we virtually had the temple complex to ourselves. This could make the visit enjoyable in itself, but the real draw is the temple’s beauty. The size makes it much more manageable than some of Tamil Nadu’s famous temples. Even if you only have an hour on your way to Thanjuvur, the village of Darasuram is worth the stop.

See more photos of Darasuram on my Flickr page

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Driving through Rural Tamil Nadu

After a quick breakfast at the hotel (the workers were still sleeping in on the restaurant floor when we entered), we began our day of visiting of several Hindu temples. Once out of Pondicherry, things became very rural. The road was narrow, making passing difficult and travel time longer. Some of the busses leaned precariously to one side, making it appear as though they could tip at any moment. Since the road was shared by many slow-moving vehicles (including bicycles, carts, tractors, large loaded trucks, etc.), passing was very common. Although there were many “close shaves” due to the large amount of passing (and at the last minute getting back in the proper lane), it was amazing that we never saw any accidents occur. Our driver calmly took all traffic engagements in stride, never exhibiting “road rage” or contempt over drivers who took unnecessary risks or butted in line.

Village Life
Throughout the day we would pass through many small towns and villages, each bustling with life and commerce. Piles of rope made from coconut fibers were coiled next to small shacks ready to be sold. Coffee stands abounded, gathering a large number of regular patrons who congregated and used it as an opportunity to chat and catch up on the latest news. Bollywood and Kollywood posters were plastered over walls. Painted sides of buildings and walls advertised underwear, cement, silk saris, and more. Some buildings were constructed with cement sides and thatched roofs. Women braided each other’s hair (or picked out lice) alongside the road. Children ran out of thatched huts wearing only a top. Colorful kolams decorated the entryways to homes and businesses. Women pounded and rung cloth over the washing stones, laying out the laundry on the grass, over walls, fences, or over string. Chilies lay drying in the sun, carefully arranged on a piece of cloth. Cows ambled about, eating garbage, sitting on the road, or pausing wherever they felt like it. When the road paralleled a river, we could see people using the river to bathe, wash clothes, clean pots & pans, and wash their hair. Long steps leading down to the river right next to the homes indicated that in these villages, such rituals were a part of daily life.

Rice Bowl
This area of Tamil Nadu is known as the “rice bowl.” Indeed, the flat land is perfectly suited for rice growing, provided that ample rain and irrigation is available. Palm trees lined some fields. Others were merely broken up with raised areas. Some fields were completely flooded, with the water nearly extending to buildings. I shuddered to think of how bountiful mosquitoes must be in these homes! Pigs seemed to enjoy themselves in the paddies. Men could be seen plowing fields with a tractor having specially designed wheels for the very wet soil. Others used cattle to do the job.
Hungry and needing to stretch our legs, we stopped at a local “hotel” (which is what they call places that just serve food) for a quick meal. It served a typical South Indian meal on a banana leaf. Workers came around with buckets and heaped on large amounts of rice, idli, vadas (fried lentil doughnuts), sambhar, and chutneys. The food was tasty and filling. Thankfully my two Serbian friends were adventurous and not only tried the food, but enjoyed the meal. At such places, the meal of the day (almost always vegetarian) is the only thing they serve! To be on the safe side, we avoided the poured water and instead purchased bottled water. Sharing a bottle of water, the meals typically cost us $1 or less.

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Pondicherry - Christmas Day

Hungry after our visit to Auroville, we had the driver drop us off at La Terrace restaurant in Pondicherry. Knowing that most of the meals we would have on the trip would likely be Indian, I chose to order a pizza. Refreshed once again, we walked along Pondicherry’s seafront. Closer to the road, a promenade was available. Or, one could walk on the sand. Waves crashed up onto the large black rectangular rocks, occasionally sending fine saltwater sprays up by us. Ice cream vendors with their pink bicycle-style carts dotted the sand, as did fruit sellers, those selling cotton candy, legumes, and even pinwheels. Health-conscious eaters could even buy peeled cucumbers from a sari-clad woman. People were strolling along, some holding hands. One young couple sat quite intimately and close to each other near the top of the rock embankment – a scene not very common in South India. Women in saris & jasmine in their hair seemed mesmerized by the waves. Kids eagerly licked their ice cream bars, only to find it dripping down on the sand moments later. About halfway down was the black Gandhi memorial statue. Kids climbed up the marble ramp to reach the statue, climbing over its feet, posing by the statue, and then sliding down the ramp.

From there, we headed into the French Quarter and proceeded towards the Ashram. Seeing the long lines, we decided to skip that visit. We walked to the gate of the paper factory, but found that it was closed as it was Christmas. Nearby vendors were selling clay figures, ghee lamps, and small clay bowls in carts. Racks of clothing made for export but perhaps with slight imperfections were being sold at cheap prices. Trying on the clothing wasn’t possible, but the seller with a tape measure could give you a fairly good idea if it would fit. Back on the main streets of the Indian section, we saw men ironing clothes, others making fried foods, selling bananas, and people generally going about their daily chores. Right across the street from the Immaculate Conception church, women set up brightly painted nativity scene figures for sale.

That evening, we once again went out for a walk. Lights illuminated the several churches in the town. Large colorful stars cast tinted light on carved household doors revealing Christian symbols. Others were placed in front of businesses, hotels, etc. Several of the churches were going to hold midnight Mass (albeit in Tamil), but already there were many people inside, quietly meditating or going up to the statues of flower-adorned Mary or Jesus. Huge sprays of flowers adorned the altar area. Outside one church, the figure of baby Jesus was now in its cradle, signifying that Christ was now born. Walking past a smaller church, we noticed that there were events going on in its front area. We were invited to come in and watch the festivities. First, some young men tried their hand at “hit the pot,” in which the blindfolded, spun-around individual attempted to use the stick to locate and break the clay pot hung from a high string. Only a short amount of time was given and only one strike allowed. One man did succeed at hitting the pot and was rewarded by getting wet from the water-filled pot. Giggling and laughs filled the air. After that two rounds of “musical chairs” were played, first by women aged 35 and up and then by the men. After some women were finally cajoled to come over and participate, it was quite amusing to see how some acted like shy schoolgirls as they attempted to scramble for a chair while in their saris and then giggle when eliminated. After a tasty treat at a small chocolate shop, we headed back to the hotel and enjoyed a movie and chatted.

See more photos of Pondicherry on my Flickr page

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Auroville

After complimentary Indian breakfast, we drive to Auroville, located about 12 km north of Pondicherry. An experimental township in communal, ecological, and spiritual living, Auroville attracts people around the world. Currently there about 2,000 people from over 40 countries living and working in this “New Age” metropolis. It was founded in 1968 by Mirra Alfassa (known as “The Mother” around the region), who, along with Sri Aurobindo, believed that human evolution was not yet finished and that a “supramental consciousness” could be achieved by living in such a focused community.

En route to Auroville, we drove through tree canopied narrow lanes, some of which were dirt roads. We passed by women carrying bundles of twigs, men hauling large cartloads of wood or grasses pulled by hitched cows. Thatched huts and cement buildings were intermingled. Along the way, we passed by stores with brightly patterned “hippie” type clothing, Ali-Baba pants, colorful bags, and other textile crafts of India out on display. For those hungry for pizza, plenty of restaurants also indicated they specialized in this. Other signs pointed to pottery and crafts endeavors. Many of the shops included “Auro” in their name, indicating that we indeed were close to this alternative community.

After watching the mandatory short video introduction to Auroville and its vision, we received a free pass to visit the Matrimandir area. Along the 1 km tree-lined path, we saw some beautiful beds of flowers, many planted trees, a huge 100-year old banyan tree, anthills, and other signs of nature. Solar panels in an open area revealed one of many environmental projects Auroville was undertaking. Considering that the area once was rather barren and devoid of many trees, it was amazing to see how the efforts of Auroville volunteers have transformed the area into one of lushness and productivity. A sign revealed that over 1.5 million trees were planted, 500 alternative energy installations set up, numerous schools for Auroville residents established as well as others for the nearby community, clinics, and outreach centers. It was quite evident that Auroville was giving back to the local community and making the entire area a better place.

From the end of the path, we had a good view of the Matrimandir, a gold-colored spherical structure described by some as a golf ball. To me, it looked like the toy that has suction cups all over it. Men were mowing the perfectly manicured lawn, some using push mowers and others using riding ones. Some of the twelve planned gardens were underway, but the project was not completed. As our visit did not permit us to go closer and enter the structure, we had to rely on the images included in the video that described the interior as an air-conditioned white marble meditation room with a spiraling ramp leading up to the center with a 70 cm crystal ball glowing as sunlight hit it.

Feeling at peace, we headed back to the main buildings and peeked inside some of the shops & boutiques. For those who like incense, candles, bulky jewelry, artsy clothing, and paper lantern coverings for lights, it was a great place to buy – albeit at boutique prices.

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Pondicherry - Christmas Eve

Late that afternoon we arrived in Pondicherry. We began exploring the streets of the town, first paying a visit to Lakshmi the elephant at the temple. We walked along bustling MG Road with its many shoppers right up to its end where we reached Sacred Heart Church. The air was one of anticipation, excitedly making final preparations for the celebration of the Birth of Christ. Lights were strung up outside. Both the exterior and interior were illuminated. Large bouquets of flowers filled the altar. Inquiring about services, we were told that Mass would be performed in Tamil at midnight.

After supper including a lassi at the restaurant I had visited on my last excursion to Pondy, we headed into the quieter French Quarter. Colored kolams, some with a Christmas message were in front of a few places. Large colorful stars illuminated the doorways of many homes and businesses. Ahead of us, the Immaculate Conception Church glowed in the clear dark sky, all lit up for Christmas. Here too they were preparing for midnight Mass. Music was playing. In the courtyard of the church was a Nativity scene illuminated by nearby candles. The manger was empty, with the figure of Jesus to be added on Christmas Day. We entered a grocery store to buy water and were greeted by a Santa with plastic mask handing out inexpensive chocolate. For entertainment that evening, we watched The Muppet Christmas Carol DVD on my computer. Our first of many days of adventure had now drawn to a close.

See more photos of Pondicherry on my Flickr page

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Mahabalipuram - the Journey Begins

In the days since my two friends arrived, they had been kept busy seeing some of Chennai’s religious and natural sites, dodging bicycle rickshaws and cows on colorful Mint Street, attending a Bharathanatyam classical dance performance, and of course – shopping. Early morning on Christmas Eve day, we began our journey of South India. The driver I had pre-arranged from Tamil Nadu Tourism had arrived relatively on time and with a larger car than I had anticipated. Great!

Mahabalipuram
Located about 58 km (36 mi) south of Chennai right off the ECR road was Mahabalipuram. I had already visited Mahabalipuram before, but still couldn’t help but be awed by the rock-cut temple architecture built by the Pallavas between the 5th and 9th centuries. What dedication it must have taken to carve such hard granite structures (and some without an apparent purpose), many of which were carved from single stones. The pleasant temperatures made it enjoyable walking along the paths and climbing up rocks to reach the structures. Chipmunks scurried about structures, climbing on top of their stone sculptures of gods. Newborn puppies whimpered quietly near a temple with a prominent Shiva linga in the shape of the male body part. Goats scampered down granite rocks and over to some plants. Under the massive boulder known as Krishna’s Butterball, goats lazed in the shade.

Even though I had taken quite a few photos of the relief carvings at Arjuna’s Penance as well as the Five Rathas, I felt compelled to take more. There were more visitors at the Five Rathas and at the Shore Temple (UNESCO World Heritage Site), but overall it wasn’t nearly as crowded as last time. Children climbed up and slid down the huge stone Nandi bull sculpture. Photos of friends and family were taken next to the elephant and Nandi sculptures as well as between the pillars of Bhima’s Rath. Many school groups were here, with the children coming up to us to ask what our names were, where we were from, and if we would be willing to take their photo. At the Shore Temple (700-728 AD), I noticed for the first time that portions of this highly influential Dravidian style temple still was covered with a white limestone-like surface – and was quite detailed. Most other portions were very soft and worn by sea.

For lunch we ate at rooftop restaurant by sea, tasting some calamari prawns as we enjoyed the sea breeze. While in town we also spent a few minutes visiting the marble and granite carvers. Some used powered tools sounding like dental drill to quickly transform a large block into a Hindu god sculpture. For visitors unable to haul such heavy souvenirs, plenty of palm-sized pieces such as reclining Ganeshas with a computer or spherical tea light candleholders were just waiting to be purchased.

South of Mahabalipuram, the scene became more rural. Cement buildings were replaced by thatched huts. Men tended cows alongside road and in fields. Cows ambled across the road or lay in middle, seemingly aware of their elevated and protected status. Women were busy sweeping courtyard of their house. Many of the rice paddies were flooded, with a few workers in the fields.

See more photos of Mahabalipuram on my Flickr page

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My Serbian Friends in India

One of the wonderful things about teaching internationally is meeting others who are not only talented, dedicated teachers and wonderful people, but also share a fascination with other cultures and places. Two dear friends of mine from Serbia came to visit me this past Christmas break, enabling us to engage on new adventures through South India. Come join Pat, Olja, and me as we travel through Tamil Nadu and Karnataka, as presented through a series of blog posts.

In the photo above, Pat and Olja pose in the waters at Marina Beach in Chennai.

You can also find more photos on my Flickr site.

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More photos of the Streets of Agra

For those who enjoyed seeing the photos in yesterday's post, here are a couple more scenes in the streets of Agra. You can find more on my Agra Flickr set.

 

 

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Walking Through the Streets of Agra

Walking back down the stairs, I proceeded to wander through the streets. At first I was fairly close to the walls of the mosque. Wanting to explore more intimate alleys, I headed just a bit away and soon found myself in narrow alleys, some of which had dead ends. Here I found some beautiful doors and windows – along with rubbish, etc. Kids in their school uniforms smiled shyly as I passed by. Having a fairly good sense of direction, I was able to correctly make my way back to larger streets. Here things already were abuzz with activity. Muslim fried breakfast foods were being fried in large woks. Meat was being chopped on platforms outside of narrow stalls. Legs of goats were piled up, ready for sale. Rice was being weighed on a scale, dished out to hungry customers. Produce was being laid out ready for the morning sales. Children wearing bright uniforms and matching winter hats walked as small groups in the street, eager to have their photos taken. Other kids were working in the stalls or pushing carts. While walking along, people stopped me and asked if I would take their photo, to which I always obliged. It is so satisfying to see their joy and excitement as I show the photo to them and others around them. Meeting such local people is always one of my favorite parts of traveling. Alas, it was time to head over to the train station. A short auto rickshaw ride later, I was on the platform for the train headed to Delhi. A three hour ride to Delhi and then a plane ride back to Chennai, my trip was almost finished.

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Solar Eclipse in Chennai

All eyes were peering into the sky around the noon hour today. Starting about 11:30, the moon began covering the sun in a solar eclipse. This was a special one, called the Annular Solar Eclipse, as the moon's disk was a little smaller than the sun's disk, leaving a thin rim of the sun all around the moon's disk. Even though we didn't get to experience the full eclipse here (as it was in southern parts of Tamil Nadu (of  which Chennai is located in the north of the state) and in Sri Lanka. Still, what we saw (with the aide of special glasses, of course) was pretty cool. Here are some photos taken at school. Although it might be hard to see in the photo, even the shadows looked rather "funky," having a slight halo, additions and crescent-shaped highlights.

Thanks Joel for sharing the one photo.

 

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Happy Pongal, Tamil Nadu

Here's some kolams from my neighborhood, made in celebration of the harvest festival of Pongal, celebrated in the South Indian state of Tamil Nadu where I live. The sugar cane and pot are two common components used in Pongal. A special desert named pongal is made and people buy sugar cane to chew on. In the below photo you see two boys bringing back some sugar cane for the family, driving over the kolam at the entrance of their apartment building. Happy Pongal!

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Jami Masjid, Agra

As I had some time before departing by train back to Delhi, I decided to visit the Jami Masjid and the bazaars and narrow alleys surrounding the mosque. A bicycle rickshaw driver offered to take me to this heart of historic Agra, located just past the Red Fort. This “Friday Mosque” fit in very well with the other structures I had seen in Agra. It also was constructed in 1648 of red sandstone and has marble domes. A unique feature is the mosque’s zigzag chevron pattern, present on the domes and on columns. The British destroyed the eastern courtyard wing in 1857. The man who greeted me asked for a donation that was being used for restoration, including the replacement of the large flat stones in the courtyard. Close to the entrance of the mosque is the ablution tank with a royal stove used for heating water. Pigeons bathed in the tank and dotted the large courtyard, flying up in groups once in a while. Off of the main worship area is the prayer area for women. Aside from one boy, the old man, and a few construction workers, the complex was devoid of people.

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Agra Weaving

I also visited a place that did weavings. This place showcased weavings done by people all over the region. Some of the carpets were inspired (or copies) of famous tapestries and weavings. Others had a much more modern flair. Natural dyes were used to color the Kashimiri wool (as well as some silk) yarn. On the lower level several young men were designing plans for new carpets, employing a grid to aid in design. One was busy applying poster paint to a rendition of “The Last Supper,” copied from a postcard. In another room a young man painstakingly separated each strand on the front of the weaving, removing the “fuzzies” present during the weaving process.

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Zari and Zardozi

Having read about Agra’s textile arts known as zari (elaborate gold thread embroidery) and bead embroidery (known as zardozi), I asked to visit a place where this craft was being demonstrated. Literally meaning “sewing with gold,” zardozi was a prospering craft during Akbar’s time but gradually declined. Older saris of Chennai used this same technique with gold-covered thread, making such saris very valuable. During Akbar’s time, costumes, walls of tents, wall hangings, and coverings for horses and elephants all employed this technique. Intricate patterns were traced in gold and silver, studded with pearls and precious stones. These were sewn on silk, velvet, and brocade. Today zardozi threads consist of copper wire with a golden sheen or use gold-colored silk thread. In the shop (mainly for sale), a young man (this craft is done predominantly by Muslim men) was using colored silk thread to embroider silk thread flower designs for evening purses. Displayed on the wall were several masterpieces created by a man who is credited to reviving the craft in Agra. One was a floral design created with colored silk threads, outlined with the gold thread, and studded with precious and semi-precious stones and gems. Another comprised of several birds, while a third was of a hunting scene. Unlike most designs of today, these pieces get their dimensionality not by adding thick cotton threads or stuffing, but by painstakingly layering on silk threads, one over the other until the desired height and shape is achieved.

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The Art of the Pietra Dura

The Florentine technique of pietra dura was imported by the Emperor Jahangir and developed in Agra as pachikari. Today in Agra, craftsmen continue this technique. One could observe workers shaping slivers of precious and semi-precious stones on a vertical stone, rotated with a rope attached to a stick. Some of the pieces are so small that the process must be done solely with a sense of touch. These pieces are then fitted into the carved indentations of marble and adhered with natural glue. For the right amount of money, one could walk away with incredible tabletops of varying sizes and shapes, boxes, coasters, sculptures, and decorative items. The revival of this craft employs many people in Agra, partially compensating for the shutdown of industries in the city in hopes to stop the polluting yellowing of its most famous landmark.

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Agra Fort

Another UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Agra Fort was built between 1565 and 1573 by the Emperor Akbar, who also built Fatehpur Sikri. The enormous complex is also built of red sandstone. The entryway was rather unique. Instead of a straight, flat drawbridge entrance, the Agra Fort employed a slight ascent and a 90° turn between the outer and inner gates. This made it impossible for elephants (used in attacks) to gain momentum. A deep moat, once containing water, surrounds the walled fort. Much has changed since Akbar built the fort. His grandson Shah Jahan (who built the Taj Mahal) tore down many buildings and replaced them with more opulent ones, including some made from white marble and inlaid with semi-precious stones. The British also made some additions in the 19th century, when they used some areas for barracks. From the marbled double-storeyed octagonal tower called the Sheesh Mahal, Shah Jahan was placed under house arrest by his son. From the tower one has a clear view of the Taj. It is here that Akbar spent his last 7 years of his life.

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