The Little Rann of Kutch - The Cotton and Salt Workers

The following morning, the owner of the resort took us in his Jeep towards the flat, stark, expansive area known as The Little Rann of Kutch. Along the way, we saw several women in bright clothes and a few men picking cotton. The women giggled in shyness as they continued picking the cotton by hand, placing it in large cloth bundles. Once the bundle was full, it was carried to a truck, a ready containing quite a bit of the white fluff. Shortly after that, the land became quite desolate looking.

 

In the distance, we saw some action near large white piles that looked like snow. In fact, these words helped flats, created during the monsoon season when the sea and rivers flood the region. Underground water in this area is also very salty, making it unsuitable for farming. Instead, the enterprising Indians ever used this area to harvest salt for domestic and some export use. Our driver turned off the road and onto the cracked land until we reached the salt workers. A few men scooped up dried salt into shallow bowls, which they then placed on top of the heads of women. The women then carried the bowl weighing about 20 kg (44 lb) and dumped the salt onto large piles. They would toil like this in the hot sun from about 8 AM to 2 pm every day during the 6 to 8 months of harvest. During this time, they would live and work in the flats. Noticing a few children, I inquired whether they went to school. According to our driver, about 40% do get an education, but NGOs are helping to improve this. No harvesting would occur during the monsoon. For every 50 kg bag, workers would get between 14 and 18 rupees ($0.30-$0.40). About 7,000 metric tons of salt are produced in this area.

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Road to Dasada

Back on the road to Dasada, we were once again thrust back into agricultural land. Large combines from Punjab with motorcycles attached to the front drove in groups of four. The owners of these combines would go through various states in India, making quick work of harvesting in the fields. On the bed of trucks were large numbers of people going between villages and to fields. Others piled in carts attached to modified motorcycles. We would see many more such vehicles in Gujarat. Herds of water buffalo and large-horned cows also used the road for traveling, followed by their caretakers. There was notably less trash along the roadside. Sparse cotton fields and others with Castor plants were common. We stopped at one field where people were harvesting the castor beans, filling sacks with the beans. A real treat for my "always a farmer" dad.

It had been another full day, complete with ancient sites, a religious festival, incredible crafts, and rural life.

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Bahucharaji Mataji Temple

On the way to Dasada, we passed several vehicles carrying a conical shape structure with brightly colored decorations. Our guide told us that it was used as part of the Kavadi celebration of the Hindu mother goddess. We stopped at the Bahucharaji Mataji Temple where devotees were engaged in celebration. Stalls leading up to the Temple sold coconut, bright cloth, sweets, flowers, red powder and a few other items. One man had a silver box containing silver repoussé representations of things people would wish for. For example, one might buy a figure of a child in hopes of having a baby, while a person who was lame might buy a representation of a leg, in hopes of being healed.

 Framed by a pair of carved stone columns was a small altar covered in red powder. Partially obstacle obscured by more red powder was a picture of the goddess Bala Bahuchar, whose blessing cured any disability and impotency. On the wall behind it, more red powder was spread, in the shape of swastikas and random fingerprints. Next to a small building were some eunuchs. Devotees began gathering around us, eager to take our picture with their families. Near a corner we saw one of the conical structures decorated with brightly colored streamers and a clay pot below it, representing fertility.

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Modhera Sun Temple

After lunch at an AC restaurant without power, we went to the Modhera Sun Temple. Built in 1026 by King Bhima I of the Solanki dynasty this is one of several Sun temples in India. I had already seen the Sun Temple at Konark, Orissa. Upon reaching the site, the first thing we saw was the large kund also known as a ceremonial tank. Flights of stairs lead down to the water, with pyramidal stair steps leading down to the next level. The entire kund is shaped like an inverted pyramid. Scattered throughout are 108 shrines dedicated to various Hindu demi-gods. On three sides of the kund are three main shrines dedicated to Ganesh, Vishnu, and Shiva.

Adjacent to the tank was the entrance hall, which has 12 representations of Surya, the Sun god. These stand for the phases of the sun for each month of the year. Next was the Nritya Mandapa, a hall that leads from the assembly Hall towards the inner sanctum. It contained 52 pillars representing the 52 weeks of the year. Both the pillars and walls are decorated with murals that displayed a history of the time, lessons can mortality, descriptions of fairs and festivals and rituals of the time. It was here at dance performances took place.

We then reached the Garbhagriha (inner sanctum), where one could find carvings of deities in the strict order of their celestial hierarchy. The sanctum was so precisely designed that the first rays of the sun fell on the image of Surya at the equinoxes. The idol of Surya, made entirely out of gold, is now missing, plundered by Mahmud Gazni. This room had a particular odor to it. Looking up, we found the source–small bats hanging from the ceiling.

The exterior of the Temple is profusely decorated with poses of various gods and goddesses. Bosomed women with curvy hips are found throughout the façade. In addition, one can also find erotic scenes, a common theme found on many Hindu temples. Closer to the base was a role of elephants in a frontal view. Like many of the carvings throughout the Temple, they were quite worn and had some parts broken off. This was due to the soft sandstone used, worn over time, as well as by plundering.

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Filtering the Opium

Filtering the Opium, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Watercolor of an opium ceremony in a Bishnois village near Jodhpur, Rajasthan http://bit.ly/j3AYnp

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Mashru Weaving, Patan

Still wowed by the entire process and beauty of the Patola weaving, a man on a motorcycle led our car through the narrow maze-like streets of Patan, past cows and women carrying baskets of dried cow pies to his house. Here, an older woman demonstrated the weaving of Mashru cloth on a pit loom. In this style of weaving, the top (outer) side was woven with silk, and the inner side (touching the skin) out of cotton. This technique was used because Islamic law forbade pure silk. Such garments were once used as part of the dowry in India, along with being exported to Turkey and the Middle East. Today the Mashru weaving is done in only a few places, with Patan being one of the main areas.

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Patan and Patola Weaving

Once the capital of Gujarat between the 8th and 15th centuries, this town is now famous for its Patola weaving. Here we met the Salvi family who has™ practiced their double-ikat weaving technique since the 11th century. Renowned for its gem-like colors, designs, and durability, Patola woven cloth has long been presented to royal courts throughout the world, including by the famous explorer Ibn Batuta. In places such as Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia, Patola cloth was considered as magic, protective cloth – the cloth of the gods. Today, many of the Patola saris are gifted by wealthy families to their daughters or daughters-in-law at the time of marriage. Others become museum pieces.

The process by which the Patola silk cloth is woven sets it apart from other methods. In such double-ikat weaves, both the warp and weft threads are colored through a tie-dye method. Portions of the string that are to remain the current color are carefully wrapped, after which successive colors are added. The strings are tied, dyed, untied, and retied as needed until all colors have been added – a very laborious job. About 30 years ago, natural vegetable dyes have been re-introduced using colors from turmeric, marigolds, onion skins, pomegranate bark, madder, lac, catechu, cochineal, and indigo. Silk from China was used, along with that from the south Indian city of Mysore.

After the warp and weft threads are laid out, the weft threads are wound onto bobbins. Stretched on the primitive hand loom made from teakwood and bamboo strips were the taught warp strings. On the warp strings alone, the design of an elephant was already apparent. Such neatness would be carried out, that the finished cloth would be completely reversible. Two family members worked in tandem on the loom, moving the bamboo shuttle back and forth. One person carefully checked and ensured that the pattern of both warp and weft matched up, along with removing the tension of the warp threads with a large needle-like tool.

Such precision and attention to detail equates into a lengthy, laborious process. About 20-23 cm (8- 9”) can be woven by the pair in a day. Working at such a pace, it takes about 5-7 months to complete a sari of around 5.5 m (6 yards) from start to finish (depending on the complexity of the design) – including 40-50 days for the weaving process alone.

Read more about the Patola Weaving at http://www.patanpatola.com/index.html

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Rani ki Vav Stepwell

Located 140 km (87 miles) from Ahmedabad is the famous stepwell of Rani ki Vav. Meaning “The Queen’s Stepwell,” it was at one time one of the largest and grandest of Gujarat’s stepwells. Built by Queen Udaymati as a memorial to her husband around 1026 AD, the stepwell is approximately 64 m long, 20 m wide, and 27 m deep (210 x 66 x 89 ft). Although the well has been damaged due to being silted up and only excavated after being re-discovered around 1958, one still can appreciate its excellent carvings – over 800 individual sculptures, mostly of Hindu deities. Totaling seven colonnaded floors, the stepwell has a lateral series of steps leading to what was the water’s edge. Just below the last step was a 30 km tunnel built for the king as an escape getaway in times of conflict, now blocked by stones and mud. Now on the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list, the Rani ki Vav, once a refreshing spot enjoyed by travelers along the Silk Route, is now a significant tourist destination.

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Colorful Ride to Patan

The northern drive to Patan was far from dull. Sharing the road with India’s colorful trucks were several types of animals. A brightly painted elephant with a rider on its back made its way down the road. A camel with dark decorative “tatoos” over its body pulled a cart containing some family members and goats. Two boys sat on saddled donkeys, leading their work donkey herd. Cows with thick horns ambled their way through villages. Bharwad shepherds led the sheep entrusted to them to graze in the fields. In return for herding the sheep for a month, our guide said the flock’s owners typically paid the shepherds about 25 rupees ($0.56) per sheep. In the fields, oil rigs were busy. In another field, women wearing brightly patterned skirts and one man gathered straw and carried it to a stack. All the work was done by hand – and in the heat.

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Adalaj Vav Stepwell

Driving past a nuclear power plant, we drove north about 17 km (10.5 mi) to the stepwell known as Adalaj Vav. The guidebook I had described the step well as being one of Gujarat’s finest, and upon seeing it, I’d have to agree. It was built in 1499 to collect and conserve water in this arid region. Although it served a very important utilitarian purpose, the beauty of the structure suggests something more. As we began climbing down the 95 steps, the temperature became noticeably cooler – around 9° C less, changing it from around 35°C to 77°F at the lower level.

On both sides of the stairs were intricately carved horizontal detailing comprised of geometric and floral motifs, along with some figures. Light filtered through the colonnaded pavilions, beckoning visitors to sit, relax and socialize. For many centuries, women retreated to the well when gathering water, as did the Silk Road caravans. Niches, balconies, and windows were all elaborately carved. The balconies surrounding the five levels of the intermediate tank reminded me of a grand opera theatre, all with splendid views. People used to walk the final steps of this first well to take ritual baths. The main well with its 30 m (100 ft) shaft was widely used up to the early 20th century. In fact, our guide said that some water still exists in the well and is used to water the grass of the surrounding grounds.

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Through the Streets of Old Ahmedabad

Our guide led us through the old section of Ahmedabad, showing us where his family regularly purchases spices. To reach a section that had several old haveli buildings, we passed through the chaotic, crowded narrow streets where cheap Western clothes were sold, along with fabric and beautiful sari material. Fresh veggies were neatly stacked, making the colorful produce even more attractive. A watermelon cart selling slices as well as a pink drink looked awful refreshing. In between the motor scooters and auto rickshaws honking madly and trying to make their way through the crowd, the occasional cow, and the mass of people, it took some focus to stay together. In the midday intense heat of 40°C (104°F), sweat dripped down our backs. At last we were in front of several old havelis – one of which was recently restored and another that sat looking abandoned. Even in its derelict state, the wood carving was magnificent. Another had its woodwork shamelessly painted over. Just as I pined to see the havelis of the Shekawati region in Rajasthan preserved, I once again wished people would see the historical and cultural value of such works of art.

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Calico Museum, Ahmedabad - Textile Treasures

Still early in the morning, we toured the Calico Museum, a private collection of rare textiles, particularly that of Gujarat. Considering Ahmedabad being a center for the textile industry in India (in fact it’s sometimes called the Manchester of the East), it was quite appropriate for such a museum to be situated here. A museum guide (after giving us rules such as no drinks/food, no photography, etc.) took us through the lush compound grounds and into the museum’s buildings. Even the exterior of the museum was quite beautiful, with its ornately carved wooden façade. Displays were quite extensive, including a 17th century Mughal tent with carpeting and hand-painted cotton panels taking up nearly an entire room. The tour was kept at a rather fast pace (making it impossible to read descriptions and enjoy all the pieces), but it increased my anticipation of seeing the textile work while in the Kutch region of Gujarat.

This photograph of the  Mughal tent is from the Calico Museum's website

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Siddi Saiyad Mosque, Ahmedabad

We then visited the Siddi Saiyad Mosque, constructed in 1572. From the backside we could see the several gorgeous stone jali windows. The depicted trees’ branches flowed and swirled, blending into the equally ornate background. Through the front side, the early morning sunlight poured through the tiny openings, casting the Tree of Life in shadow.

A short distance away was the Hathee Singh Jain temple, constructed in 1850. Here we admired the beautiful exterior figurative carvings.

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Jami Masjid, Ahmedabad

Our tour started off in the Old City of Ahmedabad. The commercial and cultural capital of Gujarat was founded in 1411, built by the Sultan Ahmed Shah who received an auspicious sign there. Of the four million people living in the city, about 370,000 lived in the old walled city section. Many of the older structures are built in the Indo-Saracenic style, a fusion of Hindu and Islamic architecture. The first mosque we visited, the Jami Masjid, was one structure built in this style. Built in 1423 by the city’s founder, this yellow sandstone mosque with its 260 pillars and 15 domes was constructed using pieces retrieved from demolished Hindu and Jain temples. Its minarets were no longer present, having collapsed in a 1819 earthquake.

Still early in the morning (but after the call to prayer), the mosque’s large courtyard and ablution pool were empty. Sitting on a simple hand-woven striped rug in between a row the mosque’s column was an elderly man with large prayer beads around his neck. Above, an intricate octagonal corbelled cupola reminded me of the ones in the Jain temple in Ranakpur, Rajasthan. Light streamed in from the large arched entrances and smaller windows with carved geometrical jali designs. At its capacity of 10,000 worshippers, this mosque would likely take on a far different feeling than the tranquil one we experienced.

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Spring Break Trip Part Two: Gujarat

Having been to Rajasthan twice already, I was interested in visiting another state with equally colorful people and textiles. Although not nearly as touristy as Rajasthan, Gujarat fit the bill. The Kutch region of Gujarat is particularly well known for its textiles, so when I found a tour specializing in the crafts villages of Gujarat, I knew this would be a winning combination. The idea of meeting local village people (many of which still wear traditional costumes & jewelry), seeing crafts in action, some wildlife, plenty of photographic opportunities and of course shopping was something for which to look forward.

Following a layover in Mumbai, we landed in Ahmedabad, the largest city in Gujarat. The state of Gujarat with over 60 million people is located on the western side of India, north of Maharashtra and south of Rajasthan, with 1,600 km (994 mi) of coastline on the Arabian Sea. A portion of Gujarat borders Pakistan. The following morning, our tour guide, a native of Tamil Nadu but living most of his life in Gujarat, met us at our hotel to begin our adventure in his adopted state.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/01/India_Gujarat_locator_map.svg/530px-India_Gujarat_locator_map.svg.png 

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Cochin, Kerala

The drive to coastal Cochin was a downward one, with the curves of Munnar giving way to leveled, straight roads. We passed through more towns with their share of election posters and deafening announcers, as well as more Christian establishments. Cows seemed to enjoy particular road status in these towns, ambling around and laying down wherever they felt like it.

Just before reaching the modern town of Ernakulam, we stopped at a palace now converted into a museum. The heat and humidity immediately met us as we stepped outside the car. Definitely ice cream weather! The increased traffic of this larger city was quite apparent; at least the roads were straight. That afternoon, we went to the area known as Cochin and saw sights such as the Chinese fishing nets, the rather simple St. Francis Church (one of India’s earliest European churches), Paradesi Synagogue (India’s oldest synagogue), a spice warehouse where workers were placing ginger into large sacks, and a bit of shopping.

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Munnar, Kerala

The 3½ hour drive to Munnar was once again dominated by narrow roads that wound itself up and through the highlands. Our Kerala driver deftly handled the hairpin (and tighter) curves and registered no anger when others took great risks to pass. Churches dotted the hilly landscape and various political parties made their presence seen and heard. Due to the dry season, many of the area’s waterfalls were slowed to a trickle. Bridges took us over rather barren riverbeds, whose markings indicated fast flows when it rained. Lush, green dense forests framed one or both sides of the road. Nearing Munnar, tea plantations carpeted the steep land. Bright patches of color dotted the plantations, indications of female tea pickers. In contrast to the emerald green tea bushes, some fields were brown, indicating freshly trimmed bushes. Cows ambled on or alongside the road, seemingly unconcerned about its safety. For the next two nights, we made a cottage up an incredibly steep road (or really a path) our base.

From there, we made day trips around the area, visiting the Eravikulam National park where we got up close to its endangered Nilgiri Tahr (a rare horned animal related to sheep), several lakes and dams, a tea plantation factory, and even a Kathakali (Kerala’s classical dance-drama). The climate in Munnar was quite pleasant and even a bit chilly in the foggy morning, a feeling I knew would be short-lived.

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Critters in the Reserve, and an Elephant Ride

The following morning after breakfast, we took a walk around the hotel within the reserve. Trees in the area were massive, towering high into the bright sky. Some trees seemed to flow like ribbons, their sculpted moss and lichen-dotted roots disappearing at the ground. Standing at the base within these bands made a person feel like an insignificant dwarf. Rhesus monkeys poked their heads from around the trunk, while a baby monkey clung to its mother. Seemingly unfazed by the presence of people, several wild hogs and a baby strolled past. Signs in multiple languages warned people not to feed the animals.

Just outside the reserve, we did a touristy thing and rode an elephant, which easily carried all four of us. The mahout led the elephant through the forest, past brilliant flowers, ferns, and jackfruit trees. Our petite mahout had the elephant pause occasionally so he could take photos with my mother’s camera, sometimes commanding the elephant to pose and curve its trunk.

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Periyar Lake and Tiger Reserve, Thekkady

Heading towards Thekkady, the roads transitioned rather quickly to those that were narrow and winding. Through small towns, additional congestion made the drive more challenging, especially with animals and carts vying for road space. Drivers were no less patient, and passed wherever they could, transforming the 2-lane road into four and barely returned to the “correct” side as an oncoming vehicle passed. Witnessing such driving habits was a bit disconcerting for my family unaccustomed to such sights.

Spotted throughout the area were churches of various designs and colors. Many were perched rather high up, some even on rock. Interspersed, one could find tower-like “churchettes” with a single narrow lower space in which a statue was placed. Also quite prominent were Catholic schools, attended by students of varying faiths. The presence of upcoming elections was everywhere, from signs and posters plastered everywhere, to the mini trucks with a person in back, whose message was projected through obnoxiously loud speakers.

Up near Thekkady, forests of rubber trees and carpeted fields of tea bushes dominated, replacing the coconut palm trees of the backwaters. Trees soared to towering heights, with filtered light dappling on large ferns.

Although we arrived too late for a bullock ride, we were able to take a boat ride on the Periyar Lake within the tiger reserve. It took a while for the boat to depart, as each person in the boat had to have a life jacket firmly secured by park personnel. Although we initially complained about the clumsiness of the jackets, they did serve an alternate purpose, keeping us slightly warmer and drier when rain blew into the boat. The boat slowly chugged its way in a pre-determined path, carefully avoiding the many petrified tree trunks scattered throughout, evidence that this area was flooded in 1895 when a dam was constructed. Perched on the gnarly tree trunks were birds, on the lookout for fish. Along with the more common Cormorants, small Kingfishers were also spotted. Despite the blowing rain obscuring the view, we were able to spot bucks, bison, monkeys, and elephants.

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Backwaters Houseboat Tour in Kerala

Following a rather uneventful overnight train ride from Chennai, our driver cheerfully met us and quickly took us to the spot in Aleppy where our houseboat was waiting. Our houseboat was fancier than the first one I had taken, with this one having AC in both bedrooms (each with their own bathroom), a mini upper deck, and even a dish for satellite TV. A few of the houseboats were quite massive, accommodating around 200 people on the top level – perfect for parties. Once in the backwaters, welcoming coconut drink in hand, the pace became relaxed, with plenty of time for gazing at rural life along the riverbanks and river as source of transportation.

Aside from the boat motor hum, the sound echoing through the area was that of beating clothes. Both men and women engaged in this activity, lathering up the cloth in the river, wringing it out and beating it mercilessly on a big rock. Likewise, the river was a favorite place to bathe, with the soap and shampoo disappearing after some successive dunks in the water.

Although the touristic houseboats dominated the water scene, the waterways were shared by locals. People rowed across the river, ferrying passengers, beverages, and cattle feed. Larger water taxis sped by, transporting people to various villages. Along the shore and in small boats, men went fishing with a pole and/or string or threw out small nets into the water. On the narrow shore, motorbikes and bicycles were the favored means of transportation.

Pampered for a day, all we needed to do was enjoy the view, take photos, chat, and eat the food prepared for us. In the back of the boat, meals were prepared for us, including fried fish, coconut-flavored dahl, beets (also with coconut milk), green beans, chai, and fried banana. With the plentitude of coconut palms and banana plants, as well as fish in the river, our tasty meals made us feel part of the locality.

Poking through the green fronds of palm trees were variations of Kerala’s distinctive architecture. Many of the slanted roofs were covered in terracotta tiles and trimmed with decorative wood. In addition to some colorful Hindu temples, the backwaters included many Christian churches and schools. While most of the churches lacked steeples attached to the roof, they all proudly displayed the Cross. On buildings, walls, and even tree trunks, one could find political posters (accompanied by political announcements shouted through speakers), vivid reminders of the upcoming elections.

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