Sunday, May 15, 2011

Modhera Sun Temple


After lunch at an AC restaurant without power, we went to the Modhera Sun Temple. Built in 1026 by King Bhima I of the Solanki dynasty this is one of several Sun temples in India. I had already seen the Sun Temple at Konark, Orissa. Upon reaching the site, the first thing we saw was the large kund also known as a ceremonial tank. Flights of stairs lead down to the water, with pyramidal stair steps leading down to the next level. The entire kund is shaped like an inverted pyramid. Scattered throughout are 108 shrines dedicated to various Hindu demi-gods. On three sides of the kund are three main shrines dedicated to Ganesh, Vishnu, and Shiva.

Adjacent to the tank was the entrance hall, which has 12 representations of Surya, the Sun god. These stand for the phases of the sun for each month of the year. Next was the Nritya Mandapa, a hall that leads from the assembly Hall towards the inner sanctum. It contained 52 pillars representing the 52 weeks of the year. Both the pillars and walls are decorated with murals that displayed a history of the time, lessons can mortality, descriptions of fairs and festivals and rituals of the time. It was here at dance performances took place.

We then reached the Garbhagriha (inner sanctum), where one could find carvings of deities in the strict order of their celestial hierarchy. The sanctum was so precisely designed that the first rays of the sun fell on the image of Surya at the equinoxes. The idol of Surya, made entirely out of gold, is now missing, plundered by Mahmud Gazni. This room had a particular odor to it. Looking up, we found the source–small bats hanging from the ceiling.


The exterior of the Temple is profusely decorated with poses of various gods and goddesses. Bosomed women with curvy hips are found throughout the façade. In addition, one can also find erotic scenes, a common theme found on many Hindu temples. Closer to the base was a role of elephants in a frontal view. Like many of the carvings throughout the Temple, they were quite worn and had some parts broken off. This was due to the soft sandstone used, worn over time, as well as by plundering.

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