Happy Independence Day, India!

August 15 marks the 62nd anniversary of India's independence from British rule. Unlike in the US where people would typically don clothing with patriotic colors or even elements of the flag, Indians in my neighborhood chose to display their patriotism in other ways. Schoolkids dressed in crisp uniforms all had small paper flags pinned to their tops. Several kolams incorporated Indian flags in their designs. Ever enterprising folks peddled around or set up shop on the sidewalk, selling small flags & other patriotic trinkets, along with balloons in the tricolors of the flag.
Happy Independence Day!

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Between the Waves

Fishermen brave the strong currents go out on their humble catamaran log boats for their daily catch. No doubt these men have to be quite strong to battle the powerful currents and waves. I wonder what happens when they get caught between incoming and outgoing waves...

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Slightly Shy

Parents in the neighborhood love to have their kids photographed. Often times the kids stiffen up and give the frozen look; others begin to cry; still others play the shy act, as this girl did. What a cutey though.

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Happy Janmashtami

Today is yet another festivity for Indians - Janmashtami, the birthday of the Hindu Lord Krishna. When I came home from school, one of my apartment neighbors was preparing a special kolam for the occasion. Baby-sized footprints made from watered-down rice flour adorned the steps leading up to her floor. The painted footprints led right to a special kolam which had footprints in the middle of the design as well. Those families with babies use real footprints, placing the baby's feet in the rice flour mixture and encouraging them to walk towards the door. South Indian women carry out this decoration with joy, knowing that Lord Krishna has blessed the family by entering the house.
Most households will also prepare some sweets said to have been enjoyed by Krishna. Butter and other dairy products are often a main ingredient. Traditionally the sweets were made by the women, but now (like my neighbor) it is often more convenient to buy them from a local sweet shop. Chanting, devotional songs, and dancing often accompanies this festival.

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Cool Enough for a Photo

These slightly older boys thought it important to give the "cool" look for their photo. I've seen makeshift cricket bats before, but I sure hope the nail-riddled board the boy here has won't be used for that!

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Here's Looking at You

There was something about this boy's eyes that compelled me to take such a close picture of him. Piercing, yet curious. Just after that he posed with other kids in a much more relaxed manner.

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Grinning Grannies

These two grannies were enjoying the slightly cooler (or less hot) temperatures in the late afternoon. I've taken photos of the toothless one sitting on the floor before, but this is the first time I've seen her more stoic sister. A great grinning duo.

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My First Earthquake

This morning around 1:30 AM I was awaken by the sensation of my bed shaking. For about 30 seconds it vibrated back and forth, followed by stillness. Indeed, a powerful earthquake (7.6) had hit the Indian Ocean about 257km (160 miles) north of Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Tsunami warning were issues, but later expired without any occurrences. I'm glad my first earthquake occurred while laying down - safe position in my home. All piled up in a bus or just out there on a chaotic road would have been a potential scary situation.

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Spare Parts Toys

These boys don't need store bought toys to have fun. One boy rolled the bicycle tire down the lane with a stick, while the older boy carried a hand carved cricket bat. Have fun, boys!

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A kitty for the camera

Just like a little kid, this woman struggled to hold on to the kitty in order to be photographed. Whether it was a substitute for a child (many prefer to be photographed with their children) or she truly loved this kitty, I'm not sure. She sure is enjoying herself here though.

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My First Bollywood Movie

Even though this is now my second school year in India, there will still be a lot of "firsts." Today I went to the movie theatre with three Indian women from school. Tickets (between $1.30 and $3.14, depending on location) were purchased ahead of time, as most shows would be sell-outs, particularly during the weekend. After stepping through the metal detector, a lady asked to see my purse and then asked if I had any cameras. The air-conditioned theatre room was quite large, with the screen filling the entire front. We climbed the carpeted stairs up to our seats which were quite roomy. No sticky floors or left-over popcorn here; the rooms are cleaned thoroughly after every show.

After several commercials (no movie previews though), the movie began. As soon as the main male actor came on, some audience members began cheering and hooting. Same with the female actress, also light skinned. The love story took place in England, India, and San Francisco. No bed scenes here; only brief kissing. Profanity typically isn't present either, with only one instance in this movie - and it was bleeped. Dialogue was mostly in Hindi, with the occasional English word or phrase. I did pretty good at following what was going on and asked my friend for the occasional clarification. As any Indian performance should be, this movie didn't disappoint in terms of colorful, ornate costumes from Northern India. It's impossible to be in India without marveling at the exquisite textiles.

Most of the India scenes took place in Delhi. From my trip this spring, I recognized most of the sites, including the Qutb Minar, India Gate, and Red Fort. The movie also featured an extravagant wedding scene as only wealthy people in North India could do it.

As most Indian movies are long (2 1/2 -3 hours), a brief intermission was provided. We were already set with popcorn and soda so we stayed seated. The jingle of an Indian cell phone company played over and over (as it did before the movie), its annoying repetition only slightly lessened through variations on the tune. By the time the commercials finished once again, the seats were all filled.

I was told to expect three to four dance numbers. True to form, this movie had four full dance scenes, with more dancing interspersed in small doses. Suddenly people erupted in dance, swinging their hips and performing complicated synchronous moves. Most seemed rather incongruous with the scenes before it, but that didn't seem to matter. Audience members expected to see the dances and they were excited when it happened. While the final dance was in progress, the credits appeared and the exit door opened. I had now watched my first (full) Bollywood movie.

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Neighborhood walk

Yesterday afternoon I took a walk through the poor area of my neighborhood. Despite the poverty and dirt, this place always puts a smile on my face. Kids follow me, curious to see where I am going next, hoping to sneak in the next picture as well. Proud mothers and fathers hold up their babies to be photographed, excitedly showing neighbors the small preview on my camera. Lots of hands, both small and large were shaken, along with the traditional palms together greeting/gratitude. And once again there were several offers of coffee. Such smiling faces from young and old keep me coming back.
This week I'll post some of the photos I took from the neighborhood. Perhaps they'll put a smile on your face as well.

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Fed Ex, India Style

Fed Ex centers come in all different sizes - and construction materials...

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The Milk Man Cometh

Early every morning this spot in my neighborhood is transformed into a milk distribution center. Delivery people load up their bikes or baskets (often balanced on the head) and distribute the small plastic bags to the doors of customers. Fresh milk is used in large quantities both for coffee and chai.

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Scents of the Spice Warehouse

Spices have gone through the port of Cochin (Fort Kochi) in Kerala for thousands of years. Aromatic mixtures of many spices filled the air of the rather dilapidated warehouse, the contents of which are still destined for domestic and international markets.

Color pencil. See more of my India artwork:

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Charming the Snake

I recently finished this color pencil drawing of a man from Jaipur playing a pungi instrument. He deftly practiced circular breathing, manipulating the double reed instrument made from a gourd. His pungi had a brass-colored tube attached to it, extending quite a ways out. Was this to provide a buffer between himself and the snake?

See more of my India paintings:

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Back in Chennai

Well, after three long flights I am back in Chennai. Ripe sour cherry trees and temps in the 60's (16° C) were replaced with coconut palms and sultry temperatures. Rolling quiet country roads were superseded by flat concrete roads filled with chaotic traffic. Instead of cherry soup, I'm once again eating rice-based dishes. Now begins more adventures in India, starting with school tomorrow.

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Even they have to sleep

This cricket field on an early Monday morning was a stark difference to the scene yesterday, when the area was the scene of at least 8 different teams all crammed on the area. I guess even die-hard cricket players have to sleep and work!

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EAA AirVenture

Small (and sometimes strange-looking) airplanes flying over my parents' house near Theresa, WI signaled the start of the EAA AirVenture show taking place in Oshkosh, WI. This is the premiere air show, particularly for experimental aircraft. In a typical year, about 2,500 show aircrafts participate, including home-built ones, antiques, classics, "warbirds," ultralights, and rotorcraft. This year the massive Airbus A380 is the star attraction.

The EAA show is THE major event in the region, contributing to the economy of places well over an hour away from the show. Try to find a hotel during that time. Restaurants hire extra workers; small county airports suddenly are full; enterprising people open up their fields or driveways for parking; tents sprawl over areas. Approximately 800,000 people attend the event annually.

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Not Your Grandfather's Farm

Today I attended Wisconsin's Farm Technology Days with my parents, held near Waterloo in Dodge County. This annual event was hosted on the farm of the Crave brothers who own a state-of-the-art farm. By contrast to my parents' small farm which had 30 milking cows and 80 acres of land, this farm has approximately 2,000 cows and young stock and 1,800 acres. In recent years an on-site cheese factory was added, enabling the family to retain profits rather than simply accepting paltry raw milk prices. The tour revealed automation and the presence of technology in every aspect of the operation. Computerized cow ear tags reveal detailed information about the cow. Special fans with misters automatically regulate the temperature and humidity. Cows were herded and pushed into the milking parlor area in an efficient manner with an automated device. High-tech tractors costing around $500,000 loomed large. The operation was clean and efficient. The farm also has two anaerobic manure digesters that utilize methane from manure, generating enough electricity to power 550 typical Wisconsin homes. The dried solid portion of the manure is being used for livestock bedding and is the main ingredient in a potting mix product. For large farms, it is quite likely that more companies will seek these alternate energy partnerships in the future. This makes SO much more sense than the ridiculous "cow fart" tax proposed by the governor.

Pictured above: The Crave family farm

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Lace of the fields

Lining the edges of our rural Wisconsin road is the Queen Anne's Lace wildflower. Upon closer inspection, one can see the delicate snowflake radial sections - another example of God's magnificent creation.

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Theresa Marsh and farm

This picture was photographed from the Theresa Marsh in southeastern Wisconsin. The farm on the hill is where I grew up, in the family homestead since 1858.

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Sandhill Cranes

Often times on our walks we see sandhill cranes congregating in the fields or flying above. Their call is not melodic but is rather loud, definitely announcing their presence. Wisconsin is one of the major summer breeding grounds for these tall grey birds who prefer open meadows, grasslands, and wetlands - making the Theresa Marsh (part of the largest freshwater marsh in North America) a prime spot.

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To my sister and others serving our country

This posting is dedicated to my sister Sherri serving in Iraq and all the others who have served our country, both in war and peace time.
As Sherri's Facebook profile states: "Remember… only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you:
1. Jesus Christ
2. The American G. I.
One died for your soul, the other for your freedom." ~Author unknown

We're proud of you, Sherri.

Also on this photo is my niece, Amanda, daughter of Sherri. She has also joined the Armed Forces.

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A Cow Fart Tax?

If politicians have their way, soon farmers will be charged for the flatulence emitted from their livestock. Otherwise known as the "cow fart tax," this proposed law would require farmers to pay as much as $180 per livestock head, varying on the amount of methane flatulence the type of animal produces - more in the case of dairy cows. My brother who owns these elk in the above photo, could get charged over $100 per head. Both large farmers and the nearly extinct small farmer will be severely punished, to the point of financial ruin. This is on top of decreased milk prices and rising costs of production. Who will benefit from this law? Definitely not the farmer nor those businesses related to agriculture. Certainly not the public, who will see a rise in costs of dairy products.
I'm all for the idea of reducing greenhouse emissions, but singling out the farmers and unfairly punishing them for flatulence is simply abusurd. Perhaps Busch's Baked Beans will be next....

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Rolling Wisconsin Hills

I snapped this picture on top of one of the hills I traverse on my daily walks near my parents' home in Wisconsin. From here, one can see other rolling hills planted with various crops, small farms, marshland, and Highway 41. Increasingly, one can also see large windmills in the horizon - one of Wisconsin's few reliable alternate energy sources.

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Hear it Grow

Over the past few days we've had some warm and humid weather here in Wisconsin. Going past the corn fields on my daily morning walks, I can see a marked height change in the corn. What looked like puny corn last week is now over knee-high in some spots! It is said that in ideal conditions (such as the hot, humid weather we had), one can actually hear corn grow. I've never taken the time to actually test this, but I can definitely verify it amazing growth spurt.

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Nothing Runs Like a Deere

When visiting a Tamil Nadu farm during the harvest festival of Pongal, a young girl was all to eager to show us their John Deere tractor. Having been raised on a farm where we owned John Deere tractors, I immediately took notice. It wasn't the first trademark green & yellow tractor I had seen in India. Indeed, John Deere has a manufacturing plant in the Western India city of Pune. This should help make the price of the tractor cheaper (vs. importing) and also make parts more available - that is, if they are needed.

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Last night in Chennai

It's a Friday evening, the last day of school. Walking home from the principal's house, I thought about the scenes that wouldn't be part of my framework for a couple of months - men selling coffee from their bicycles, whole families riding a motorbike, women zipping by on their scooters wearing a sari, the selling of coconuts on the corner, a field full of passionate cricket players, auto rickshaws, girls walking hand and hand, wearing salwar school uniforms, the man ironing clothes using charcoal iron. All these things have become a part of my everyday life.

Tomorrow evening I'll be in the quiet rolling countryside of Wisconsin with my family. What a change.

Until later.

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Produce at Your Doorstop

Now that you've had your cooking gas delivered by tri/bicycle, purchasing some vegetables is the next task. Although you can go to local stalls or grocery stores, your neighborhood might also have a vendor wheel up his cart piled up with colorful produce. Now that's convenient!

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Cooking Gas Delivery

In India, bicycles & tricycles are a common utilitarian vehicle. They can navigate through narrow lanes and congested traffic. As a definite plus, they don't contribute to the serious automotive pollution plaguing cities. This tricycle was parked in front of an apartment building in my neighborhood, delivering canisters of cooking gas. Each empty canister weighs 12 kg, so you can imagine what kind of load these skinny guys pedal around the neighborhood.

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Samosa Street Food

Traveling around India, one of the cheapest eats can be found at the stalls or directly on the street. Samosas is one fried food that can be found throughout India. In the predominantly vegetarian South India, the inside of the pastry is stuffed with flour, potatoes, onions, spices, fresh coriander, and green chilis. Some vegetarian samosas also contain peas or mint. While these fried snacks might not necessarily be the healthiest, they are definitely quick, cheap, and filling. And that's a good thing when you'd rather spend your money on textiles and crafts!

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Supreme Court Ruling on Marriage

Now that we're entering June, the traditional "wedding month" in the US, this newspaper article in a local Chennai paper caught my eye.

On Thursday the Indian Supreme Court ruled that "girls above 18 years of age can live or marry with anyone of their choice." Parents, the ruling continued, may not like the marriage, but at worst they could sever ties - ruling threat, coercion, and torture as inappropriate.

The case in question involved a Hindu woman and her Muslim husband, who were harassed by police and after her parents put forth a complaint along with threats. After conversion to Islam and marriage, the woman's parents forcibly brought her back and made her marry a Hindu. Escaping, she returned to her husband. Her parents and the second husband then launched a complaint of kidnapping against her Muslim husband.

One of the teachers at my school just got married. She is Christian and he is Hindu. This caused deep strain and strife in both families, most of whom did not attend the marriage. Financial backing for the wedding was also withheld. Even for college educated individuals, arranged marriages are still the norm. Choosing your own partner is uncommon, and marrying outside of your religion is considered taboo for many. Those that choose to break these norms face difficult challenges. In a country where tradition and religion are so ingrained, it will be interesting to see if marriage practices actually change.

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Ice Cream vendor comes to my neighborhood

Yea, I know it's a far cry from the ice cream vendors every few feet on Belgrade's walking street, but seeing even one ice cream vendor on my street was something to take notice. The small bell and call got my attention. Like many vendors here, his business is wheeled around in a converted tricycle. This vendor stopped to sell an ice cream bar to the coconut seller behind the cart. On hot days like this (102°F, 39°C), I sure hope he got lots of customers!

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Never Too Old For Pussy Cats

Seeing this old woman cuddling the contented cat reminded me of my childhood back on the farm. We were so excited finding the fresh batch of kittens, still so furry, tiny, and barely with their eyes open. We had fun during the spring and summer playing with the kittens, dressing them up in doll clothes, taking them for carriage rides, and just squeezing them. Cats in Chennai are not that plentiful, and those that are around seem to be loved. I can just hear this striped one purr away....

Also notice that the woman has double nose piercing.

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Two are Better than One

This endearing lady in the poor neighborhood next to mine is sporting two nose rings - something I often see, especially in older women. What a smile to warm one's heart!

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Left or Right Nostril?

Going along with a theme, nose piercing is a natural next step. Nose piercing, introduced in India by the Mogul Emperors in the 16th century, is a common practice in all of India. In Hindu girls, the nostril (left for northern areas and right for South India) is pierced in girls as young as five years old. According to ayurvedic medicine, this position aides in childbirth and lessens menstrual pain. Nose piercing is considered a sign of beauty and marks one's social standing. Piercings is one way Hindu women can honor Parvathi, the goddess of marriage. A special nosering called a Nath is worn by brides on their wedding day. The Nath is connected by a chain to an earring or hair and when it is removed by the groom, represents the end of the bride's virginity. The nose ring typically is not removed while a woman remains married. Nowdays though, a nosering can be worn by all women and does not necessarily denote marriage.

This woman is from a village in the Thar Desert near Jaissalmer. She is wearing a gold disc-shaped nose ring, along with henna dyed hair.

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Cherry-flavored or Grape?

Somehow the red popsicle seemed a bit incongruous with the rest of the scene; brightly clad grown women donning chunky tribal jewelry who were trying to sell cheap anklets. But on hot days such as today (when it was 113°F/45°C) I'm sure that popsicle was a welcomed treat...

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Ear Piercing in India

My travels in Rajasthan heightened my awareness of something I noticed down in the south as well - ear piercing. Both males and females donned earrings in both lobes. Not just studs either - rubies, gold, and precious gems set in various designs. In India, a child's ears are typically pierced by the child's first birthday. The ceremony is called Karna Vedana and is an event shared by friends/family who shower the child with blessings. For Hindus, this sacred ritual often occurs when the child is 12 days old.
It is believed that sunlight passing through the hole prevents hernias and other stomach ailments. In addition, it is said that piercing activates the nerve leading to the brain.

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My Beard, too please

Henna is not just reserved for decorating hands and feet. In many countries, people use it to color their hair. Although older women seem to prefer this for their hair, it's definitely not exclusive to females. This photo shows a Jaissalmer man sporting a beard tinted with this natural dye. Not as fiery orange as those with grey hair dyed with henna, but nonetheless noticeable.

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Temporaray Tatoos

Adorning the hands and feet of this Bishnois woman from Rajasthan is mehendi - the decorative skin art using henna. This plant-based dye is placed in a tube and squeezed out to draw the lines, much like the process of decorating a cake. The hands and feet are the most common places of application, as the keratin here bonds better with the henna, resulting in a darker design. To ensure longer-lasting mehendi (between 2 weeks and a month), the decorated appendage can be covered in a plastic bag for several hours or overnight. When my friends and I had ours done in Rajasthan, we simply waited for the paste to dry completely and then carefully rubbed off the raised paste. In India, mehendi is a common ornamentation, particularly for weddings. The intricate flowing work is another example of Indian art that is beautiful, but temporary.

Mehendi is common in Islamic countries as well. When I was in Mali and Tunisia, mehendi was also a part of special events. It is speculated that mehendi originated in India, while others think it might have started in Egypt, where some mummies still bear their temporary tatoos.

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This End Up

It's quite common to see people hauling impossibly large loads on their bicycles. Gas canisters, water jugs, crates of chickens, and even refrigerators are moved along in this humble manner. Looking at the directions of the arrows, I hope that the goods in the back made it to their destination in one piece.

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