Delhi - Qutb Minar and Humayan's Tomb

Humayun's Tomb
Having several hours before our flight, we decided to see a bit more of Delhi. Our taxi drove us through tree-lined streets with floral islands, grassy areas, and parks. Not quite the Delhi we had expected to see. Our first destination was Humayun’s Tomb. Built by wife of the second Mughal Emperor Humayun, this tomb (built in the mid-16th century) is a superb example of early Mughal architecture. With its high arched entrances, bulbous dome, squat building, and gardens lining a wide path, it is a predecessor to the more famous Taj Mahal. Latticework of the window cast patterns onto the marble floor next to the tomb. Out of the sun’s reach, it was remarkably cool inside. The complex also contained several other tombs, each housed in special buildings. Carved Arabic calligraphy covered many of the walls. A worthwhile place to visit.

Qutb Minar
After an enjoyable meal at a local restaurant, we visited the Qutb Minar. I had read somewhere that it was a good place to visit, but wasn’t quite sure what we’d see. We first encountered the Tomb of Altamish, whose red sandstone with calligraphy and pointed arches contrasted against the blue sky. Next to that was the Alai Mina, the incomplete tower of victory that would have been twice as high as the original Qutb Minar tower. I felt like I was walking through Roman ruins as I passed arched and columnar ruins. The Quwwat-ul-Islam Masjid (Might of the Islam Mosque), first mosque in India, was built in 1193 on the foundations of a Hindu Temple. An inscription over the east gate indicated that the mosque was built with materials obtained from demolishing ’27 idolatrous temples.’ Indeed, some of the blocks had Hindu symbols on it. I was curious to see how the Muslims dealt with the figurative carvings on the Hindu and Jain columns. Looking closer, I noticed that the figures’ faces and other parts were obliterated. Strangely enough, others were left alone. In the courtyard of the multi-arched mosque was a smooth 7m-high (23 feet) pillar. It dates long before the mosque - dedicated to Chandragupta II who ruled from 375-413 AD. Constructed of exceptional pure iron, scientists are still baffled how the iron has never rusted.

The main star of the show was the Qutb Minar itself. Constructed in 1193 as a tower of victory, it celebrated the defeat of the last Hindu kingdom in Delhi. Standing at 73 m high (240 ft), the column is an impressive site. The tower has five distinct storeys, each containing an ornate, projecting balcony. The lower three are made of red sandstone in a vertical zigzag fluted pattern, while the smoother 4th and 5th levels are from marble and sandstone. Arabic calligraphy banded the lower levels. Despite earthquakes and multiple lightning hits, the column still stands as a sight to behold.

After tea at our guide’s house, we headed over to the nearby airport. Surprisingly the flight agent didn’t even flinch when she saw our baggage; weight didn’t seem to matter. Smiling for our good fortune, we went through security. The camel skull drew lighthearted conversations by the security people, but all was fine. As we stepped off of the plane in Chennai, the heat and humidity hit us, even at 11 p.m.. No more were we in the dry desert-like climate. After two weeks in magical Rajasthan, were back in our South Indian home.

See more photos of the Qutb Minar and Humayan's Tomb on Flickr

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