Screamin' for Sladoled

If the number of ice cream (called sladoled in Serbian) stands on the walking street Knez Mihailova is any indication, Serbs love their ice cream. Sitting at a café on an intersection of this street, I could count 9 ice cream stands within easy view. Walk a few feet, and you'll be sure to find more. From the commercial types on popsicle sticks to the rich creamy types scooped into a waffle cone, this tasty treat is enjoyed by all ages and budgets. On warm days, nothing beats a sladoled!In this picture alone, there are 4 ice cream stands and another just behind the foliage

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Pipin' Hot

Along with yogurt and turkish coffee, bread, or hleb as it is called in Serbian, is a staple food for the average resident. On my walk to school each morning, I invariably see people carrying a plastic bag with fresh bread, its golden crust sticking out of top. Breads such as this type I photographed from a window in Zemun, are often eaten plain - without any butter, jelly, etc. With the absence of the multitude of preservatives found in many breads in the US, this bread, with its intoxicating fresh smell, must be eaten within a couple of days - if it lasts that long. Unused bread can often be found in a bag hanging from the side of a garbage dumpster, ready for the taking by either the Roma (or other hungry "dumpster divers") or birds who help themselves.

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Plenty O'Flowers

Flowers now take center stage in many of Belgrade's green markets. Everyone seems to be in the mood to buy the colorful array of of annuals. It's one of the few things that can brighten the otherwise drab Communist-era concrete buildings. When walking through my residential neighborhood of Senjak, I enjoy peeking above the walls or through the gates of homes, seeing the arrangements of flowers. Right now the rose bushes, sometimes towering quite high, are in their glory. The city of Belgrade has also undertaken more efforts at embellishing roundabouts, parks, and other areas.

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Remembering Mostar

Featured in today's Rick Steve's travel article on the CNN website is Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina. It brought back memories from when I visited this former Yugoslavian city. My "tour guide" was a friend - a former resident of Mostar who fled along with most of the other Serbian residents in the city. The centerpiece of the city definitely is the unique 400 year old Turkish bridge, once a symbol of harmony connecting the different religions in the city and then a tragic symbol of the war when it was bombed by the Croats. You can read my travelblog entry or website regarding my visit to Mostar.

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Upcoming Elections

This Sunday (May 10) is election day for the Serbian parliament. Billboards all over the country display political ads. With the iconic St. Sava Cathedral in the distance, this sign, put up by the party of the Prime Minister who resigned, encourages people to support Serbia. If they had their way, Serbia would become more nationalistic, leaning away from the West and EU, and towards Russia. Let's hope this doesn't happen.

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Kittens in the Air

It's a lovely spring day. In the air, fluffs from trees float lazily in the air. Known as mače (Serbian word for kittens), these fuzzy specimens are very adept at finding their way into your mouth or nose, not to mention aggravating spring allergies. On the ground, they sometimes congregate and form "tumbling tumbleweeds."

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Spring Break trip to Vranje, South Serbia - part 4

Cathedral Church of St. Trinity
Now back in the downtown area, the pedestrian street was lively. People ambled down the wide street, eating ice cream, chatting, and pushing kids in strollers. The whining motors of the toy vehicles were heard above the bustle, the kids happily driving around the area and their doting parents/grandparents looking on. Just beyond the post office and its fountain was the Cathedral Church of Saint Trinity. Burned by the Turks and Albanians shortly after completion in 1841, a current structure was erected in 1858. Typical of Christian architecture in the Ottoman Balkans, the church lacked a bell tower, had low blind domes and was hidden amongst houses. Likely constructed later, a tall white bell tower is separate, made visible due to its height and bells that ring hourly. The interior of the church has portions of its walls painted in a naïve fashion, with iconostasis carved by local artists. The domes each depicted a member of the Triune God and the one closest to the entrance was dedicated to Mary. Like other Serbian churches, this one had a large golden chandelier. After lighting a few candles, we moved onward.

Markovo Kale
After relaxing in the hotel for a couple of hours, we took a taxi up the steep tree-covered hills to the fortress of Markova Kale. Named after the most significant figure of Serbian folk poetry, the fort was actually built much earlier than Marko’s time – probably in the 11th century. Along the narrow winding road we met young people hiking back to Vranje. Our taxi driver explained that an area beyond the fortress was a favorite picnic spot. With the beautiful views of the valley, Vranje, and the plain of the Južna Morava River far below, I can easily see why. Our guidebook cautioned us to be on the lookout for lumber trucks, but since it was a holiday, that traffic was absent.

Located high above a bend in the road was the fortress. We hiked up a steep narrow path to the remains of the fortress, which sit precipitously on a steep ridge. Although not much was remaining, there were some high thick stone walls that showed that it once was an imposing structure. Between the towers was the foundation of a structure that was in the shape of a small church.

From the fortress we stopped to admire the view. The light of the setting sun illuminated the tops of the wooded hills. Over the hills to our left was Kosovo. Even though the sunset was non-spectacular and colorless, it still was pleasant. Right below the fortress were some wild yellow irises. I carefully climbed down to take some close-up photos. From here I could also see a few young couples, enjoying a picnic lunch and enjoying the view.
Back in the taxi, we headed back into town where we had an ice cream cone and then played several rounds of UNO. With peanut butter M&M’s as the “loot,” the stakes were high.

Back to Belgrade
The next morning after a breakfast of more greasy fried eggs and ham, we headed down the stairs of the Communist-era hotel. Pat brought along some water for a tired-looking plant, a floor above a sorry one-leafed plant. When getting closer, she realized that it was artificial – didn’t know that a fake plant could look so sad! At least it matched the rest of the hotel – tired, outdated, and in desperate need for an upgrade.
With the museums closed again for the day, we decided to go for a photo walk through some more streets. A beautiful morning, people were sitting outside in their lush front yards, enjoying an early cup of strong Turkish coffee. The hamburger place already had customers, as did the pizza and rostilj (serving meat) places. After relaxing in a nearby park, we headed back to the hotel and packed up.

After waiting at the bus station for over an hour (the bus was late coming from Skopje, Macedonia), we finally boarded the crowded bus. Our reserved seats were taken, but at least there were two seats way in the back. A number of people had to stand in the aisle for nearly two hours until the bus stopped at the first major city. Although a common sight on city buses in Belgrade, this is the first time I saw a private long-distance bus over capacity. Interestingly enough, I didn’t hear any of them complain. Five and a half hours later, we were back in Belgrade, our journey now to an end.

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Happy Đurđevan Day!

Today is the slava of Sveti Đorđe, or St. George as he would be called in the West. It is one of the more important slavas (celebration of a family's patron saint - often more important than your own birthday) of the Serbian Orthodox church. St George is also the patron saint of of the Roma (gypsies). Đurđevan, celebrated each May 6, is associated with the beginning of spring. Homes would be decorated with flowers and blooming branches. All the walls would be washed with water from church wells and special baths with flower water would be taken. The feast dinner typically includes roasted lamb. Music, particularly brass bands, is an important element.

Last week, when walking through the Roma quarter of Vranje, a Roma man came up to us. After reassuring him that we were not reporters, a conversation followed. He explained that his family, like all the other Romas in Vranje, was cleaning their home in preparation for Đurđevan. He even invited us to come to his slava, but we said that we would be back in Belgrade on the 6th. Of interest, he mentioned that he was a Muslim. I found that rather odd that a Muslim would be celebrating a Christian event, but it turns out that Đurđevan is celebrated by Roma, regardless of religion. Had we been in Vranje, it would have been a treat to see the Roma celebrating Đurđevan out in the Trg Slobode, complete with their famous brass bands in a loud, vivacious style.

Happy Đurđevan!

You can find a basic introduction to a slava here:

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A Stroll through the Roma Quarter of Vranje

Roma Quarter
Our next destination was the Roma quarter, inhabited by the city’s Roma, or gypsy population. Although the homes were much more substantial than the shack dwellings in Belgrade that I typically associated with the Roma, you could definitely tell when you entered into this quarter. Here the homes were painted in bright colors, with laundry strung everywhere. Void of any walls or fences, everything happened out in the open. Sheep were slaughtered right on the sidewalk, laundry washed, and mothers nursing. Older women wearing bold combinations of patterns sat on the steps, smoking. Men sat just inside the doorway, playing cards taking advantage of the natural light. A wagonload of pigs was driven down the main street, pulled by a small hand-maneuvered tractor. Radio music including Roma violin music filled the air.

In the middle of the Trg Slobode (freedom square) was a tall bronze statue of the most famous Roma trumpeter of Vranje. For some reason, folded carpets were placed around the base. A stocky Roma man with alcohol on his breath approached us, concerned that we were reporters. Reassuring him that we were not, the man relaxed after Pat continued conversing with him. He then invited us to come back to Vranje on May 6th to celebrate the slava (religious “birthday” of the Roma patron saint) with his family. The man explained that people were spring cleaning their homes in preparation for the event, hence the extra amount of shoes and other items found outside. Politely declining an offer for coffee, we moved onwards.


Old Hammam
Heading down the hill towards the city center, we went past the Old Hamam. Built at the end of the 17th century, this small brick and stone building with multiple small sloped square terracotta roofs housed only one bathtub, used by both men and women. We heard that it had been turned into a discothèque that was now closed.

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Old Turkish Residential Quarter of Vranje

Turkish Haremluk and Selamluk
After a breakfast of greasy fried eggs, ham and weak coffee in the hotel restaurant (we were the only ones in the large dining hall both days), we headed out for a day of photo shooting. We stopped at the National Museum, originally a haremluk built in 1765 by the Paša as a dwelling for his wives. A wonderful example of typical Ottoman residential architecture, the white symmetrical two-storey building was trimmed with dark wood, tall wood frame windows divided into squares, terra cotta tiled roof, and an old lamp with a dangerous-looking spike. Unfortunately it was closed, as it was May Day. Next to the haremluk was the pink selamluk, used by the Paša and other males. At one time a “bridge” would have connected the two buildings, enabling any movement to be unseen by the public.
Still early in the morning, even the pedestrian downtown street was quite sleepy. The motorized toy cars were just being uncovered, ready for the first young child driver. Old men had yet to congregate on the benches, chatting and gossiping. Boxes of fresh healthy annual flowers were being laid out, their bright colors tempting passersby. The smell past the bakery was intoxicating, the best form of advertising for the fresh bread inside. Storefronts displayed shoes and purses in bright colors, bold polka dotted pajamas, and Easter decorations.

House of Bora Stanković
We then turned onto a very narrow cobblestone street of Baba Zlatina, named after the grandmother (baba) of writer Bora Stanković. Unfortunately the large wooden gate entrance was also locked, closed for the holiday. Holding my camera above my head, I took some photos over the wall of the Turkish Balkan house with its cozy green yard, wishing well, small terrace, and open porch.

Invited to Turkish Coffee
Moving onward through the old Christian quarter, we stopped at the gate of a two-storey house, admiring the many flower pots interspersed on the wooden siding and the unique still life on a nearby table with rakija (brandy) glasses drying on the branches. A man came to the gate and greeted us, explaining that he made the sculpture and also painted. Upon hearing that I was an artist, he invited us in for some coffee. Here we also met two other members of his multigenerational family. Asked to critique his paintings, gave this self-taught artist some advice and encouragement regarding his still life, landscape, and village scenes paintings. When I noticed the Bob Ross paints, he opened up a drawer and showed us a videotape and Bob Ross book written in Serbian. So Bob Ross’ “happy trees” technique even made it to Serbia! Thanking the family for the Turkish coffee and rakija, we moved onward.

Beli Most (White Bridge)
After a tasty lunch of šopska salad (cucumbers, tomatoes, fresh white grated cheese) and baked beans with bacon at a cute ethnic restaurant, we headed towards the Beli Most (White Bridge). This small stone bridge was constructed in 1844 and has a shape similar to the much larger one in Mostar. An inscription written in Arabic states that the bridge was constructed by lady Ajša “to repent her sins and the sins of her parents,” but local legend states that the Turkish girl Ajša fell in love with a Serbian boy Stojan and was mistakenly killed by her father – who then decided to build a bridge in her memory.

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Spring Break trip to Vranje, South Serbia - part 1

This is the first of four parts on my trip to Vranje.

During the week of spring break (which included two Serbian holidays – Serbian Orthodox Easter and May Day), my friend Pat and I traveled down to Vranje, the southernmost city in Serbia. The main purpose of the trip was to attend the opening of my art show, but we would take advantage of the opportunity to explore this city located close to the Macedonian border (24 km) and Kosovo region.
Departing from the bus station at just after 7 am, we took the NIS Express bus down to Vranje. It turned out the route wasn’t very “express” after all, making stops in several towns, including a 40-minute layover in Nis. At around 1 pm, Biljana, a worker at the American Corner where the art show was being held, met us at the Vranje bus station.
Art Show Preparations
After dropping off our stuff at the hotel (the only significant hotel in the city), we all walked to the American Corner. Located within the city’s library, the American Corner serves the community with English language books, videos, informational sessions, and English lessons. Since most of the paintings were already hung, only finishing touches and final preparations for that evening’s opening had to be made.

A Bite to Eat
Hungry, we selected a place near our hotel to eat, recommended to us by Biljana for its yummy grilled meats. Both Pat and I chose a Serbian hamburger composed of ground beef, ground pork, spices, with ham and kajmak (a cross between cheese and butter) in the middle. Lest we forget the bun as well, a rather flat bread called lepinja. It puts the Big Mac to shame, in size, taste, and perhaps even calories. The small place was very busy, its customers picking up burgers to go or enjoy it in the outdoor seating area. Located on a triangle overlooking a cobblestone pedestrian street with many cafés as well as a beautiful building of the Turkish Ottoman style, it was a great place to chat and watch passersby. Christmas decorations were still strung across the street, presumably ready for the next season. Full but unable to finish our hamburger, we left to freshen up for the opening.

Art Show Opening
Back at the American Corner, we laid out the chocolate chip cookies I brought (an introduction to something American) and waited for guests to arrive. Considering that this was a vacation week for most Serbs and a rally for Parliament elections was about to take place only a block away, I was pleased with the turnout. A local TV station was represented, recording the artwork, introductory welcome and my PowerPoint presentation. People munched on cookies as they looked at the artwork, some pleased to see my depiction of Serbian people and others more interested in images from Mali or Tunisia. After about an hour, the crowd thinned, the Parliamentary rally underway.

Presidential Election Rally
Invited to visit a mosaic art exhibit in a nearby gallery, we had to make our way through the large crowd gathered to hear President Boris Tadić speak, campaigning for the upcoming May elections. People of all ages were present, some waving flags, wearing campaign T-shirts, and kids clutching balloons with Tadić’s name and number 1 on it. (Each candidate/party is assigned a number to aid in remembering and for the few people who may not be able to read the ballot.) On a nearby street, representatives of some other candidates/parties waved their flags, handed out pamphlets, and drove by as a quiet distraction. Extra police were present, but the crowd was well behaved.

Architectural Tour
In the remaining daylight, we drove through the rather narrow streets of residential Vranje for an architectural tour. In between the newer buildings, small older homes out of mud brick were interspersed. Typically the multi-storey homes would accommodate multiple generations. Virtually all buildings had roofs made from terracotta tiles. A fence made from decorative iron, neatly trimmed hedges, or mud bricks bordered most homes. Right outside the walls piles of wood could be found, neatly stacked. Wood is the dominant fuel in the region, due to the abundance of forests and expense of electric heat. I noticed that there were quite a number of homes that were unfinished. It was explained that since a textile company closed and over 6,000 lost their jobs, economic times have been difficult for the residents of Vranje. Privatization of other companies, closures, or cutbacks have also hit the city. Driving up the steep hill through the gypsy quarter, we headed up the winding road towards Hotel Przar. From the heights, we could see the city of Vranje, nestled in the valley. Now cool and a bit chilly, we paused to enjoy the view of the twinkling city and then navigated back to the hotel for the evening.

For more pictures, visit my web page on Vranje.

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Chickens on Strike?

On Friday (Good Friday for Orthodox Serbs), I went to the local green market. Mass quantities of eggs were being sold, with a majority of the booths dedicating at least some space to the light brown-colored ja jas. Most of these eggs would be hard boiled and dyed with either brightly-colored commercial dyes or the traditional method using boiled onion skins for coloring and a leaf resist for a design. Not having my camera with me that day, I decided I would go and take some photos of the eggcellent sales the following day at the downtown market, Zeleni Venac. Alas, with the exception of a few eggs including these already dyed eggs nestled in between the flowers, the jajas were not to be found. Perhaps as in Chicken Run, the Serbian hens organized and decided enough is enough....

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Go here and you risk your life!

This weekend I went for a walk through Kalemegdan Park in Belgrade. Although excavation and reconstruction continues on this fortress (dating back to Roman times with subsequent additions by the Turks, Serbs and Austro/Hungarians), some parts remain unexcavated and/or unsafe. For the first time, I saw this sign posted in a few areas. You could still walk around in these areas, but it was at your own risk. Do something stupid, and it's your own fault. Now if this were in the USA, there would be barriers around these areas and lawyers lurking, ready to file a lawsuit on behalf of those who injured themselves in the danger zones.

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Easter Preparations in Serbia

This is Holy Week in Serbia, marking the lead-up to Serbian Orthodox Easter which is next Sunday. Over the weekend as I went for walks and did my weekly grocery shopping, I encountered vendors selling things for the occasion. On Saturday, bells strung around sashes of striped red, white and blue ribbons were being sold. These were worn around the necks of children, commemorating Jesus' triumphal entry into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. Walking home from the green market, I heard church bells ringing for the special service.


At Kalenić market (the largest green market in Belgrade) both vendors and buyers were in the Easter mood. Large quantities of eggs were being sold, along with some special decorative egg holders on which a single egg would be displayed. Packets of egg dyes and stickers were being sold en masse, both by "regular" booth sellers and makeshift sellers walking around. A few places were selling decorative chicks covered in yellow fuzz or feathers. From a distance the chicks looked like Peeps. For the sweet tooth, chocolate bunnies, chicks and other Easter goodies could be found. I passed up all of these and bought some domestic strawberries - the first of the season.


On one end of the Kalenić market is the flower area. Spring flowers such as tulips, daffodils, calla lillies, and lilacs were in abundance. People were also busy buying up annuals to plant in their gardens and window boxes. Finding it impossible to pass up this area altogether, I did manage to restrain my purchases to only 2 plants- knowing that I'd only be able to enjoy them for less than 2 months. We'll see how long I'll be able to resist buying more....

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Nature's Spring Perfume

As the days are now longer and the weather warmer, going for a walk after supper is something I look forward to. Right now is the lilac season, whose sweet scent and equally delicate flowers presents itself from the yards and paths in my neighborhood. The ones behind the walled front yards tend to look fuller, protected from the temptations of passersby who create a bouquet or simply break off a piece to smell as they go for a stroll. Some are sold by little grannies who wait patiently by the National Theatre or green markets, hoping to make a few dinars to offset their meager pensions.

Another purple pleasure is the wisteria. Its cascading flowers have an intoxicating but pleasant perfume which can be detected from quite a distance. Regrettably these don't bloom as long as lilacs, are not as prevalent, and sadly are typically located out of reach. Perhaps it's a good thing, as I would have picked a small piece to enjoy as I continued on my walk.

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The Mosaics of Oplenac

This weekend I revisited the beautiful St. George Church and mausoleum located in the historical region of Topola known as Oplenac. What it lacks for age (it was completed in 1930), it makes up for in its interior decoration. Built by King Peter I as his royal church and resting place of the Karađorđević family, the exterior is covered with the high-quality white marble from nearby Venčac Mountain. Above the main entryway is a mosaic of St. George killing the dragon, symbolizing the victory of Serbian people over its enemies. On top of that is a sculpted coat of arms of the old Karađorđević family.

Unlike the churches of old which were covered with frescoes, the interior of St. George is bejeweled with mosaics in 3,500 square meters of surface. Well crafted and very colorful, the sheer number (725 compositions and over 1,500 figures) makes it nearly impossible to focus anywhere without being distracted by a neighboring scene. Despite taking quite a few photos last time, I felt compelled once again to keep on shooting. Later I could go and zoom in on the photos, beginning to isolate the depicted scenes. In addition to the typical scenes of saints (Serbian and Biblical) and the life of Christ, other themes included the royalty of Serbia. Each king is depicted holding a model of his church in the palm of his hand. Some looked more like priests and others were dressed in more kingly garb.

Following the white marble columns to the top, light streamed through the rather small windows near the ceiling, revealing still more mosaics in the thick window frame. At the top of some columns was the double eagle symbol carved in marble. Looking up, one can't help but notice the huge Pantocrator figure of Christ in the central dome, a replica of the one in monastery at Gračanica. Nine meters in dimension, it's amazing to think that the nose is over 1.5 meters alone! The narrow windows encircling the Pantocrator help illuminate much of the church with soft light, including the splendid colored marble patterned floor. Hanging from the central dome is a huge chandelier made of bronze, weighing 1,500 kg. On the bottom of the chandelier is an upside-down crown, symbolizing the lost Serbian Empire in the battle of Kosovo in 1839.

Mausoleum
Walking down the marble stairs, the temperature became even more cool. Mosaics followed me all the way down. The mausoleum was quite dark, illuminated by some chandeliers and hanging colorful ball-like light fixtures. One's eye couldn't help but be drawn to the brightly lit central arches. Christ again dominates the central position, framed by what looked like a double cross. Four multi-winged angles as described in the Book of Revelations surrounded Christ, tapering off where the arches met the columns. In the rather dimly lit nooks were six generations of the Karađorđević dynasty. In addition to two tombs in the main church, there are 20 tombs in the crypt. Despite the significance of the people buried here, I admit that I gave only a cursory glance to the simple marble burial slabs and spent the rest of the time admiring the mosaics and glowing lamps.

Truly a remarkable place that every person visiting Serbia should see.

See my first entry on Oplenac:

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I Saw My Neighbor in the Dumpster

This evening I went for a walk, determined to enjoy the beautiful weather despite an onslaught of pollen allergy symptoms. I enjoy walking in my neighborhood in Senjak, an area of Belgrade that once was the home of the princes and other elite. Now it is a mixture of expats, embassies (or ambassador residences), wealthier Serbs, and a few residents from olden days. Homes range from the cute and simple white cottages with aging tile roofs to the turreted former palaces, to the tacky mafia-like structures that look totally out of place.

Right next to my apartment building (which is less than 5 years old) is a small brick shack. Its roof, damaged two winters ago in a fire (likely because the owner was trying to heat it using wood) now has a large large plastic sheet over the hole held down with bricks. The yard is full of items rescued from the dumpster, including broken baby strollers, chairs without backs, potted plant carcasses, clothing remnants, and much more. I like it when the trees green out, as I don't have to see the rubbish when look outside my window.

This evening as I walked past the Hungarian Embassy, I saw a short person standing on a wooden crate and trying to reach into the garbage dumpster. Suddenly he reached in further, his whole upper body now out of sight. Such "involvement" was a bit unusual, as I typically would see the dumpster "divers" simply picking through the top with their hands or a stick. Emerging with some "treasure," when the man turned around I recognized the man as my Roma neighbor - otherwise known as a "gypsy." Smiling politely and saying "dobar dan," I greeted him and moved on.

I wonder what treasure will be added to the yard next....

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1999 NATO Bombing Anniversary

Monday, March 24 marked the 9th anniversary of the NATO bombing on Serbia, known then yet as Yugoslavia. Thankfully, the commemoration went peacefully, with leading Belgrade officials laying wreaths on monuments and graves of some of the victims. A memorial service was held at St. Mark's church downtown.

A brief history
For 78 days, 19 Allied members began bombing regions of Serbia and Kosovo, with some of the first bombs targeted at Belgrade. The estimated number of people killed is set between 1,200 and 2,500 people including 89 children. Over 10,000 people were injured. One of the first casualties occurred at 2am on the 24th, killing 16 (mainly young) employees at the state RTS TV station almost right next to the St. Mark's Church where today's service was held. Other bombed sites in Belgrade included the Yugoslav Army General Staff building, the Chinese Embassy, a downtown hospital, several other military buildings, fuel tanks, virtually all RTS transmitters, and the nearby Avala TV tower.
Throughout the country bridges, military sites, and places such as a chemical plant were bombed.

Some of the bombed buildings, such as the RTS (above) building and military building (right) were never repaired. Nor is there money to tear them down.

The NATO air strikes ended on June 10 when the United Nations adopted the Resolution 1244.

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Belgrade riots - update

Although it's been a month since the protests in Belgrade erupted that February evening, the calm on the streets has not rolled back time. Plywood has replaced most of the windows on the lower floor of the US Embassy. Paint has covered up some of the scorch marks, while others are quite evident. The outer layer of the treated window glass in the street level entrance of the embassy retains its web-like shatteredness. Inside, things are very quiet, with non-essentsential personnel evacuated. Elsewhere along Knez Milosa "aka embassy row", some diplomatic buildings remain gated and a couple with faded paint marking where their country's emblem signs once hung, gone along with the diplomats.

At school things are quieter as well. Desks of US Steel and US embassy children still remain empty. Classmates miss their friends who had to leave so suddenly - some never to return. Aside from some British families, most of the kids remaining at school are non-native English speakers, which makes instruction and group work a bit more challenging. We were also short a few teachers, two temporarily away to assist the evacuated students at their temporary schools, and one ordered to evacuate due to her status as a non-essential embassy family member status. The hope is that if Belgrade remains calm through the soon-to-be anniversary of the 1999 NATO bombing, then some will be able to return to Belgrade and back to school.

Even if the anniversary passes quietly, it will take some time before Serbia can begin to erase its negative, violent perception in the eyes of the world. It is my hope that with the new elections in May (the prime minister stepped down), a more EU-focused government can help move the country forward and away from potential isolationism.

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Beginnings of Spring

Walking in Belgrade during mid-March can be a pleasure. The warmth of the rays along with the blue skies beckons people to come forth from their homes. The simple melody of a songbird can be heard once more. Bulb flowers have emerged from their slumber and annuals are for sale, the local farmer with his makeshift stands on milk crates. The fruit trees are in blossom, their delicate whites and pinks giving off a gentle perfume. The forsythia bushes are a golden yellow, particularly striking against a blue sky. Every day, the leaves of the tall chestnut trees are released from their tight fist, soon to make the lined streets green once more.
The café chairs have been taken outside, arranged for outdoor customers as soon as the city ordinance permits. Locks on the ice cream freezers have been taken off, its contents ready for the first customers of the season. Soccer season has begun and construction - well, it's never stopped!

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