Monday, April 04, 2011

From Jaipur to Agra


What should have been a rather simple drive on major roads to Agra turned into a more interesting, albeit slower journey through rural areas, thanks in part (again) to the Gujars blocking the roads in an effort to have their demands met. First we stopped at the Chand Baori stepwell, dating back to the 8th-9th century and the deepest in Rajasthan - 19.5m (64 feet) deep.


On the bumpy, narrow roads, our slower trek took us through tiny villages scattered in between fields. Kids engaged themselves on a favorite pastime of the region - kite flying. Women pumped water at the wells. Older men squatted near the road, smoking bedis as they chatted. Along both sides of the roads in these villages, children and some puzzled adults lined up as if observing a parade, waving at the unusual procession of trucks, tourist vehicles, and other unfortunates who were diverted. Children ran ahead and climbed on top of mud brick walls and further ahead in order to get a better (or second) viewing. It reminded me a bit of traveling by a traditional dugout boat up the Niger River to Timbuktu.


The flat land in the area yielded brilliant yellow fields of mustard plants. This crop, also seen in abundance in the Shekhawati region and even a bit in Himachal Pradesh, is used for cooking oil and creating dyes. Indian-style scarecrows stood above the crops, sporting a black pot for a head. Early in the morning steam from recent rains rose above the field, replaced later by deep, blue skies. Brick factories were situated in the middle of the mustard fields, with their blue and white striped chimneys rising high. Men and children piled bricks neatly in a cleared field next to the factory, creating patterns with their expert stacking techniques. In other ploughed fields, camels were hitched up to farm equipment. Others could be seen in the villages and towns hauling goods with special trailers. Tractors received special attention here as well, sporting decorations of colored tinsel tassels, artificial flowers, and colorful garlands. In the courtyard of farms, the women patted small mounds of cow dung into thicker disks to be used for fuel. Cowpies dried on the roof and dried ones were stacked 7-high on a low wall near the road, probably for purchase.

No comments: