Velankanni Flag Raising Ceremony

On Sunday, huge crowds gathered in Besant Nagar around the Velankanni Church to celebrate the opening of the annual festival with its flag-raising ceremony. Attendees raised their right hand or folded them in prayer as they fervently sung "Ave Maria" in Tamil.

This 10-day festival is a smaller version of the one celebrated in the small town of Velankanni, located about 150 mi (240 km) south of Chennai along the Bay of Bengal. According to legend, Mary and the infant Jesus appeared three times here, first to a Hindu boy, then to a physically disabled boy (who was then healed), and lastly rescued some Portuguese sailor merchants from a terrible sea storm. September 8 marks the day of the merchants' landing and dedication of a chapel in Mary's honor. It is said that at both Velankanni churches, healings and other miracles occur, which draws a large gathering of people from all faiths. This  seaside town of 10,000 swells during the festival, with some pilgrims walking many weeks to arrive. In fact, the Velankanni church attracts more pilgrims than any other sacred shrine in India.

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Mass at the Velankanni Festival

Already at 7:30 in the morning, this space at the Velankanni Festival was the scene of Catholic Mass - one of many that would occur throughout the day. Mass is conducted in English, Tamil, Telegu, Malayalam, and perhaps other languages. At the main Velankanni Church in southern Tamil Nadu, Mass is conducted in eight different languages. Participants number in the thousands.

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They All Go to Velankanni

I was one of over three million people descending upon the small (5,000 residents) southern Tamil Nadu town of Velankanni during the nine day festival which just ended on Sept. 8. People from all over India and elsewhere travel by train, plane, boat, car, and foot to reach this famed place called the “Lourdes of the East.” 

During the nine day festival which culminates on Sept 8  - the day of Mary’s birth and also the date when the sailors were saved from the storm - various forms of worship such as Holy Mass, blessings of the sick, and prayers & meditation occur in the basilica and chapels. Depending on the time of day, visitors can hear services in one of nine languages of India, including English.

Mary is reported to have made several appearances in this area. Around 1560, she first appeared to a Hindu milk boy (whose pot of milk overflowed after giving some go the infant Jesus) , then to a lame boy selling buttermilk (who was healed), and then to save Portuguese sailors from a dreadful cyclonic storm. Chapels were then built on these sites and were subsequently expanded.

Visiting Velankanni during the eight-day festival or other special occasions such as Christmas is not for the faint-hearted. It is chaotic, crowded, intense, color - in other words - so India. 


More to come!

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Blessings at the Velankanni Festival

This flag pole proudly waves a flag of Mary and baby Jesus in front of the Velankanni Church in Chennai. Much like I've seen at the golden pole at Hindu temples, these people are touching the pole and looking up, as if the pole and sacred image above will bring some sort of good luck. The Velankanni Festival attracts Christians and people of different faiths, many of whom are seeking to be amongst the recipients of a miracle.

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On the way to the Velankanni Festival

Late Sunday afternoon, I joined one of my Indian friends and his family who were participating in the walk to the annual Velankanni Festival. The main road near my apartment was transformed into a steady parade of devotees all heading to the church in Besant Nagar for the raising of the flag marking the beginning of the Velankanni Festival. People of all ages joined the throng, walking, riding in carts, overcrowded auto rickshaws, five to a motorcycle, trucks, and more. Despite the heat and humidity, the mood was jovial. People waved from across the street or from their crammed rickshaw. Others came up to me and asked if I could take a photo of them with their child. Although the usual rainbow of assorted colors and patterns abounded in textiles, a favorite color was orange, signifying religious propriety of the common person.

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Pilgrimage to Velankanni

On my morning walk, I passed by a few men and women, all dressed in light orange-colored clothing. It was a sign that the pilgrimage to the Velankanni shrine in southern Tamil Nadu had begun. During the last part of August and into September, several thousand devotees from the Chennai region make the trek by foot to the church known as Our Lady of Good Health, site where the Virgin Mary and infant Jesus are said to have appeared to a few locals in the 16th century. Likely, most of those making the 350 km walk (217 mi) in about two weeks are Christian. Once at the site though, they will be joined by those of various faiths seeking for miracles, personal requests, and curiosity.

Those making the trek are helped along the way by those who provide water, food, and shelter.

This photo was taken during last year's walk to the smaller Velankanni church in Besant Nagar, Chennai. I was waiting to join some local Christians who were walking there from their apartment in Mylapore. This weekend, I will join them to the church in southern Tamil Nadu.

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Poondi Matha Basicilica

Our final place of pilgrimage in Tamil Nadu was to the small village of Thiruvaiyaru Taluk. Amidst the emerald green paddy fields rose the large basilica known as Poondi Matha (meaning mother in Tamil). Erected in the late 18th century, this white structure of Gothic and French style was elevated to the status of minor basilica by Pope John II in 1999.

Like other churches along the pilgrimage path with Velankanni, Poondi Matha attracts large numbers of visitors around the time of the festival in Velankanni. The basilica has been enlarged due to donations and even contains an upstairs room that is air conditioned - a definite incentive to meditate!  Masses were held on a rotating basis in multiple languages, accommodating the various places of origins for these Indian visitors. More housing and eating facilities have been erected to try to accommodate the swell of visitors. Some still elect to cook and/or sleep outside - which is fine until the downpours come!

The Poondi Matha houses a tiny fragment of what it claims to be a piece of the cross of Christ. People kissed the glass in front of the relic as they walked by, then spending more time in front of the large statue of Mary and infant Jesus. Once again, Mary was clad in a silk sari (several more were draped in front of the display - gifts of devotees), gold chains given by people, and floral garlands. More garlands were tied in front of the display, constantly refreshed by people. Off to the side, a worker took off some still-fresh garlands and began (much to my horror) ripping them apart and tossing the roses and other flowers in what looked like a waste basket.

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A Dip in the Holy Water

After making my way through the crowds, I arrived at the beach of Velankanni. Although early in the morning, it already was rather crowded. With the mass of people now in the small town, whose lodgings are unable to accommodate all (or those who choose to sleep outside), the sea was the perfect place for a dip - or a bath. Since this is more conservative South India, women walked in the water with their saris or salwars. Out of respect for the bathers, I did not take such close-up shots. 

I did find this scene rather fascinating though. Everyone in the area was wearing orange - the color of penitent pilgrims. The way they interacted with the water made me wonder if some holy or healing status was being applied to the sea by Velankanni. Much like that of the Hindu's holy Ganges River. 

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Walking to the Beach, Velankanni

In true India style, this mass of people are making their way to the beach at Velankanni. Along the way, they can get snacks, cheap Chinese toys, or even shave their heads. I knew that the beach and ocean had to be that way, but with the crowds, it was impossible to see. I eventually did make it to the beach - without being tempted by any of the goods, services, and head-shaving opportunities.

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Velankanni Night Splendor

Velankanni Basilica, lit up at night, as seen from the hotel window

Oh, how tranquil it looks! Not visible (but present): throngs of people camping out at night, still worshipping within the different chapels, stalls selling goods and making food, and much more.

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Tsunami Miracle at Velankanni

On December 26, 2004, over 2,000 pilgrims were taking part in a Mass in the main basilica. Along with other coastal areas of Tamil Nadu, the small coastal town of Velankanni was not spared, devastating the entire town. The only building that escaped destruction was the basilica, sparing all those lives. This is particularly remarkable considering that buildings on the same elevation, located even further inland, were destroyed, while the inside of the basilica remained completely dry. Many consider this a miracle, performed by the loving, protective hand of God.

A similar incident occurred in Chennai, near Marina Beach. St. Thomas Basilica, located right by the sea, was spared from the tsunami, with the devastating waters parting just before reaching the church’s backside. While the church was untouched, the waters spread past the road further inland. 

St. Thome Basilica, Chennai

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Velankaani Catholic Festival

This week the Catholics of Tamil Nadu (the state where Chennai is in) are celebrating the Velankanni Festival. On Friday night a statue of Mary and Jesus was paraded around the area of the church in Chennai.

Legend Behind the Festival
According to legend, Mary (the mother of Jesus) rescues a few Portuguese merchant sailors during a violent storm. Upon reaching the shore of Velankanni, local fishermen took the sailors to the thatched chapel. Grateful and eager to pay tribute to Mary, the sailors built a small but permanent chapel on their return trip. Subsequent returns resulted in improving the chapel and an initiation of the feast.

Modern Festival
This annual festival lasts for nine days and draws over 1,500,000 pilgrims – more than any other sacred shrine in India. Both Christians and non-Christians alike visit the church, with some looking forward to miraculous cures. Some fashion candles in the shape of the diseased part of their body in hopes of a cure.

The Valankanni Church in Chennai is smaller and less elaborate, but still draws many visitors, particularly during the festival week. When I was there today, a large Mass was held outdoors, with services alternating between Tamil and English. On the way into church, some lit candles and a couple of women dressed a statue of Mary in a sari. In the room next to the worship area, a young woman laid a garland of flowers normally used in temples onto the tomb of a beloved priest. At the front of the worship area people crossed themselves or kissed the glass containing a statue of the Virgin Mary and Jesus. Strands of jasmine flowers hung down around the Caucasian sculptures.

Outside the church a lady stamped the hand of a child using the traditional stamps used to create the vegetable dye prints on cloth. On the road leading up to the church, a young man dew a crucifix in chalk along the parking spot edge of the road, something likely possible due to the marathon which closed down the road to vehicles.

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Step by Step

This red-robed man at Lingyin Temple attracted a bit of attention. Prone on the ground, he then stood up, took a step, raised his arms upward and then pressed his hands together, after which he resumed the prone position, aided slightly by the wooden mitts. Obviously practiced, he slowly but steadily made his way up the stairs in a similar manner. During a very brief rest above the flight of stairs, a visitor approached him and gave him some money.

The act of outward piety and bodily sacrifice reminded me of my trip in south India down to Velankanni. Here I observed people (of Christian, Hindu, Muslim, and perhaps other faiths) crawl on their hands and knees as an act of devotion. Along the road, we had passed by people who had been proceeding along the pavement on their knees for many kilometers. 

Crawling to a church shrine in Velankanni, India

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Elliot’s Beach, Besant Nagar

Blessed with a long coastline, one of Chennai’s beaches is known as Elliot’s Beach, located in the neighborhood of Besant Nagar. Since I was already in Besant Nagar for the Velankanni church festival, I went to the beach there, meeting up with a colleague who lived nearby. Approaching the beach through a narrow path, it appeared as though the ground-covering of green plants with pink flowers went right up to the sea.
Looking in the distance, only one fishing boat could be spotted. To the distant right was a fishing village, its boats lined up on the beach. To our left, some boys, dressed only in their underwear, played in the strong currents, cooled down from the heat of the day. We also enjoyed the refreshing feel of the water running over our feet, with a surge quickly getting the bottoms of our capris wet. Further up the sandy shore people ventured into the water, the women in their saris.
Further up the beach, some boys and young men played cricket, the ubiquitous sport of India. Vendor stalls were quite on the Sunday morning. Right across the street from a line of shops and cafés were some simple homes woven from palm fronds. As with other parts of Chennai, the contrast between the classes in the same neighborhood was quite distinct.
Had this beach been in other parts of the world (and with cleaner water), I can only imagine how developed and commercialized it would be. For now, Elliot’s Beach remains a more simple recreational spot.

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Bald is Beautiful

When visiting the various churches including Velankanni on our short trip, one could definitely come to this conclusion. Men, women, and children all sported the slick look. A paste made out of sandalwood covered some newly-shaved heads, large handkerchiefs protected others from the sun, and still other heads were proudly sported in all their bare beauty. Christians and HIndus alike carried out this practice, considered to be a huge sacrifice, particularly for Indian women who cherish beautiful, long hair. For some, hair is offered in exchange for certain favors received, or thanks given for one’s answering of prayers. Even if one has no money for which to give (or to buy gifts for the religious deity), a devotee can make this ultimate gift.  Read more about Why Indians Shave Their Heads

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Get Your Heads Shaved Here!

Finding a place where you could get your head shaved was not a problem in Velankanni. I love the sign in front of this crudely made station. Despite the fancy jewelry, fair skin, and large "shades" to entice potential customers with the resulting beauty, I still did not feel compelled by any means to give it a try.

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Beauty Shop Gals

Beauty shop signs definitely vary by country. Above are some beauty shop poles in Seoul, South Korea.

A bit of a contrast, this hand-painted sign at a small stall in Velankanni, south India promotes a beauty of a different kind. Photographed during the annual religious pilgrimage, some devotees (both male and female) choose to have their head shaved as a sort of sacrifice.

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Decorative Hand Stamp

At the Velankanni Festival this woman set up a small business on the sidewalk. Hand-carved stamps normally used to make block-printed cloth was repurposed. The girl chose a few stamps she liked and then the woman pressed the stamp into some burgandy-colored ink, then onto the girl's hand and smaller ones onto her fingers. I own several block print outfits and would like to purchase a few of these stamps, which are artforms onto themselves.

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Jesus Loves Idlis

I spotted this sign hanging above a small place that was selling local food near the Velankanni Church in Chennai. Just looking at the picture, it would seem that Jesus is a fan of Tamil food such as idlis (steamed rice dumplings), vadas (fried lentil doughnuts), thayir saadham (curd rice), and some various chutneys.

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Churches of India

Inspired by an article in the current issue of  Culturama, I decided to post some my favorite photographs of churches. South India, particularly the states of Tamil Nadu and Kerala,  has a large number of churches, as does Goa. (Northeastern states such as Mizoram have an even greater percentage of Christians - up to 90%, but I never traveled there). Christianity came to South India around 52 AD via the disciple Thomas. He was martyred in Chennai twenty years later. While the colorful Hindu temples of Tamil Nadu are spectacular, the regional churches are also majestic. A variety of architectural styles can be seen, influenced largely by origins of missionaries. 

Read the article in Culturama for information about these and other churches.

Which is your favorite? Do you have other noteworthy Indian churches to share?

Velankanni Basilica, Tamil Nadu

Church of the Immaculate Conception, Pondicherry

Church at Little Mount, Chennai (Tamil Nadu)

Church of the Sacred Heart, Pondicherry

Sacred Heart exterior, Pondicherry

Idaikattur Church, Tamil Nadu

Church along the backwaters of Kerala

San Thome Basilica, Chennai (Tamil Nadu)

Oriyur, Tamil Nadu

St. Philomena Church, Mysore (Karnataka)

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