Through the Streets of Old Ahmedabad

Our guide led us through the old section of Ahmedabad, showing us where his family regularly purchases spices. To reach a section that had several old haveli buildings, we passed through the chaotic, crowded narrow streets where cheap Western clothes were sold, along with fabric and beautiful sari material. Fresh veggies were neatly stacked, making the colorful produce even more attractive. A watermelon cart selling slices as well as a pink drink looked awful refreshing. In between the motor scooters and auto rickshaws honking madly and trying to make their way through the crowd, the occasional cow, and the mass of people, it took some focus to stay together. In the midday intense heat of 40°C (104°F), sweat dripped down our backs. At last we were in front of several old havelis – one of which was recently restored and another that sat looking abandoned. Even in its derelict state, the wood carving was magnificent. Another had its woodwork shamelessly painted over. Just as I pined to see the havelis of the Shekawati region in Rajasthan preserved, I once again wished people would see the historical and cultural value of such works of art.

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Calico Museum, Ahmedabad - Textile Treasures

Still early in the morning, we toured the Calico Museum, a private collection of rare textiles, particularly that of Gujarat. Considering Ahmedabad being a center for the textile industry in India (in fact it’s sometimes called the Manchester of the East), it was quite appropriate for such a museum to be situated here. A museum guide (after giving us rules such as no drinks/food, no photography, etc.) took us through the lush compound grounds and into the museum’s buildings. Even the exterior of the museum was quite beautiful, with its ornately carved wooden façade. Displays were quite extensive, including a 17th century Mughal tent with carpeting and hand-painted cotton panels taking up nearly an entire room. The tour was kept at a rather fast pace (making it impossible to read descriptions and enjoy all the pieces), but it increased my anticipation of seeing the textile work while in the Kutch region of Gujarat.

This photograph of the  Mughal tent is from the Calico Museum's website

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Siddi Saiyad Mosque, Ahmedabad

We then visited the Siddi Saiyad Mosque, constructed in 1572. From the backside we could see the several gorgeous stone jali windows. The depicted trees’ branches flowed and swirled, blending into the equally ornate background. Through the front side, the early morning sunlight poured through the tiny openings, casting the Tree of Life in shadow.

A short distance away was the Hathee Singh Jain temple, constructed in 1850. Here we admired the beautiful exterior figurative carvings.

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Jami Masjid, Ahmedabad

Our tour started off in the Old City of Ahmedabad. The commercial and cultural capital of Gujarat was founded in 1411, built by the Sultan Ahmed Shah who received an auspicious sign there. Of the four million people living in the city, about 370,000 lived in the old walled city section. Many of the older structures are built in the Indo-Saracenic style, a fusion of Hindu and Islamic architecture. The first mosque we visited, the Jami Masjid, was one structure built in this style. Built in 1423 by the city’s founder, this yellow sandstone mosque with its 260 pillars and 15 domes was constructed using pieces retrieved from demolished Hindu and Jain temples. Its minarets were no longer present, having collapsed in a 1819 earthquake.

Still early in the morning (but after the call to prayer), the mosque’s large courtyard and ablution pool were empty. Sitting on a simple hand-woven striped rug in between a row the mosque’s column was an elderly man with large prayer beads around his neck. Above, an intricate octagonal corbelled cupola reminded me of the ones in the Jain temple in Ranakpur, Rajasthan. Light streamed in from the large arched entrances and smaller windows with carved geometrical jali designs. At its capacity of 10,000 worshippers, this mosque would likely take on a far different feeling than the tranquil one we experienced.

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Spring Break Trip Part Two: Gujarat

Having been to Rajasthan twice already, I was interested in visiting another state with equally colorful people and textiles. Although not nearly as touristy as Rajasthan, Gujarat fit the bill. The Kutch region of Gujarat is particularly well known for its textiles, so when I found a tour specializing in the crafts villages of Gujarat, I knew this would be a winning combination. The idea of meeting local village people (many of which still wear traditional costumes & jewelry), seeing crafts in action, some wildlife, plenty of photographic opportunities and of course shopping was something for which to look forward.

Following a layover in Mumbai, we landed in Ahmedabad, the largest city in Gujarat. The state of Gujarat with over 60 million people is located on the western side of India, north of Maharashtra and south of Rajasthan, with 1,600 km (994 mi) of coastline on the Arabian Sea. A portion of Gujarat borders Pakistan. The following morning, our tour guide, a native of Tamil Nadu but living most of his life in Gujarat, met us at our hotel to begin our adventure in his adopted state.

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Cochin, Kerala

The drive to coastal Cochin was a downward one, with the curves of Munnar giving way to leveled, straight roads. We passed through more towns with their share of election posters and deafening announcers, as well as more Christian establishments. Cows seemed to enjoy particular road status in these towns, ambling around and laying down wherever they felt like it.

Just before reaching the modern town of Ernakulam, we stopped at a palace now converted into a museum. The heat and humidity immediately met us as we stepped outside the car. Definitely ice cream weather! The increased traffic of this larger city was quite apparent; at least the roads were straight. That afternoon, we went to the area known as Cochin and saw sights such as the Chinese fishing nets, the rather simple St. Francis Church (one of India’s earliest European churches), Paradesi Synagogue (India’s oldest synagogue), a spice warehouse where workers were placing ginger into large sacks, and a bit of shopping.

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Munnar, Kerala

The 3½ hour drive to Munnar was once again dominated by narrow roads that wound itself up and through the highlands. Our Kerala driver deftly handled the hairpin (and tighter) curves and registered no anger when others took great risks to pass. Churches dotted the hilly landscape and various political parties made their presence seen and heard. Due to the dry season, many of the area’s waterfalls were slowed to a trickle. Bridges took us over rather barren riverbeds, whose markings indicated fast flows when it rained. Lush, green dense forests framed one or both sides of the road. Nearing Munnar, tea plantations carpeted the steep land. Bright patches of color dotted the plantations, indications of female tea pickers. In contrast to the emerald green tea bushes, some fields were brown, indicating freshly trimmed bushes. Cows ambled on or alongside the road, seemingly unconcerned about its safety. For the next two nights, we made a cottage up an incredibly steep road (or really a path) our base.

From there, we made day trips around the area, visiting the Eravikulam National park where we got up close to its endangered Nilgiri Tahr (a rare horned animal related to sheep), several lakes and dams, a tea plantation factory, and even a Kathakali (Kerala’s classical dance-drama). The climate in Munnar was quite pleasant and even a bit chilly in the foggy morning, a feeling I knew would be short-lived.

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Critters in the Reserve, and an Elephant Ride

The following morning after breakfast, we took a walk around the hotel within the reserve. Trees in the area were massive, towering high into the bright sky. Some trees seemed to flow like ribbons, their sculpted moss and lichen-dotted roots disappearing at the ground. Standing at the base within these bands made a person feel like an insignificant dwarf. Rhesus monkeys poked their heads from around the trunk, while a baby monkey clung to its mother. Seemingly unfazed by the presence of people, several wild hogs and a baby strolled past. Signs in multiple languages warned people not to feed the animals.

Just outside the reserve, we did a touristy thing and rode an elephant, which easily carried all four of us. The mahout led the elephant through the forest, past brilliant flowers, ferns, and jackfruit trees. Our petite mahout had the elephant pause occasionally so he could take photos with my mother’s camera, sometimes commanding the elephant to pose and curve its trunk.

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Periyar Lake and Tiger Reserve, Thekkady

Heading towards Thekkady, the roads transitioned rather quickly to those that were narrow and winding. Through small towns, additional congestion made the drive more challenging, especially with animals and carts vying for road space. Drivers were no less patient, and passed wherever they could, transforming the 2-lane road into four and barely returned to the “correct” side as an oncoming vehicle passed. Witnessing such driving habits was a bit disconcerting for my family unaccustomed to such sights.

Spotted throughout the area were churches of various designs and colors. Many were perched rather high up, some even on rock. Interspersed, one could find tower-like “churchettes” with a single narrow lower space in which a statue was placed. Also quite prominent were Catholic schools, attended by students of varying faiths. The presence of upcoming elections was everywhere, from signs and posters plastered everywhere, to the mini trucks with a person in back, whose message was projected through obnoxiously loud speakers.

Up near Thekkady, forests of rubber trees and carpeted fields of tea bushes dominated, replacing the coconut palm trees of the backwaters. Trees soared to towering heights, with filtered light dappling on large ferns.

Although we arrived too late for a bullock ride, we were able to take a boat ride on the Periyar Lake within the tiger reserve. It took a while for the boat to depart, as each person in the boat had to have a life jacket firmly secured by park personnel. Although we initially complained about the clumsiness of the jackets, they did serve an alternate purpose, keeping us slightly warmer and drier when rain blew into the boat. The boat slowly chugged its way in a pre-determined path, carefully avoiding the many petrified tree trunks scattered throughout, evidence that this area was flooded in 1895 when a dam was constructed. Perched on the gnarly tree trunks were birds, on the lookout for fish. Along with the more common Cormorants, small Kingfishers were also spotted. Despite the blowing rain obscuring the view, we were able to spot bucks, bison, monkeys, and elephants.

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Backwaters Houseboat Tour in Kerala

Following a rather uneventful overnight train ride from Chennai, our driver cheerfully met us and quickly took us to the spot in Aleppy where our houseboat was waiting. Our houseboat was fancier than the first one I had taken, with this one having AC in both bedrooms (each with their own bathroom), a mini upper deck, and even a dish for satellite TV. A few of the houseboats were quite massive, accommodating around 200 people on the top level – perfect for parties. Once in the backwaters, welcoming coconut drink in hand, the pace became relaxed, with plenty of time for gazing at rural life along the riverbanks and river as source of transportation.

Aside from the boat motor hum, the sound echoing through the area was that of beating clothes. Both men and women engaged in this activity, lathering up the cloth in the river, wringing it out and beating it mercilessly on a big rock. Likewise, the river was a favorite place to bathe, with the soap and shampoo disappearing after some successive dunks in the water.

Although the touristic houseboats dominated the water scene, the waterways were shared by locals. People rowed across the river, ferrying passengers, beverages, and cattle feed. Larger water taxis sped by, transporting people to various villages. Along the shore and in small boats, men went fishing with a pole and/or string or threw out small nets into the water. On the narrow shore, motorbikes and bicycles were the favored means of transportation.

Pampered for a day, all we needed to do was enjoy the view, take photos, chat, and eat the food prepared for us. In the back of the boat, meals were prepared for us, including fried fish, coconut-flavored dahl, beets (also with coconut milk), green beans, chai, and fried banana. With the plentitude of coconut palms and banana plants, as well as fish in the river, our tasty meals made us feel part of the locality.

Poking through the green fronds of palm trees were variations of Kerala’s distinctive architecture. Many of the slanted roofs were covered in terracotta tiles and trimmed with decorative wood. In addition to some colorful Hindu temples, the backwaters included many Christian churches and schools. While most of the churches lacked steeples attached to the roof, they all proudly displayed the Cross. On buildings, walls, and even tree trunks, one could find political posters (accompanied by political announcements shouted through speakers), vivid reminders of the upcoming elections.

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Patan

Patan, a set on Flickr.

Gujarat town famed for its exquisite Patola double-ikat weaving and stepwell dating back nearly 1,000 years

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