Some bright building

Lime green bldg and decorative grillwork, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Seeing as many are cooped up indoors with dull grey skies outside, I though this photo would be a booster for color-deprived eyes. This lime green building with red and magenta trim is in the town of Pondicherry, a few hours south of Chennai. It was one of many buildings in the "Tamil" side of the town that had decorative grillwork which included female figures. Definitely a noticable building!

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Christmas in India

Mid-December I began noticing bright decorations hanging in some shops, both in Chennai and then in Pondicherry. Large 3-dimensional colorful stars, garland, fake Christmas trees, lights, and cheap Chinese ornaments could be purchased by the passersby. In Pondicherry vendors around one of the old churches were selling sizeable Nativity sets.

India’s pervasive culture also has managed to intermingle with western Christmas traditions, forming a unique Indian flavor. In some homes people decorate a banana or mango tree instead of a pine tree. Instead of candles, some use the small clay oil lamps commonly used for Diwali. In the highly touristic site of Goa, huge celebrations take place on Christmas. Seen as the cradle of Christianity in India since St. Thomas arrived on the Kerala shores in 52 AD, Christmas is a large celebration throughout the south. Stew and appams (pancakes made of a batter of rice flour and coconut milk) are enjoyed in Kerala. In other south Indian states, murukku (a fried pretzel made of lentils and rice flour) are enjoyed. Rose cookies and other sweets are shared. Christmas services with their sweet hymns and chanting are accompanied with drums. Gift exchange is also common.

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Christianity in India

While in Pondicherry we visited several churches. Like churches around the world, they too were preparing for Christ's birth. In the 1st century AD, St. Thomas ("Doubting Thomas") arrived in Kerala and set up seven churches and then traveled to southeastern India and continued to spread the Gospel. It was in Chennai where he was martyred and now buried within St. Thome Basilica. When the Portuguese arrived after Vasco da Gama discovered a sea route to India, they continued spreading the Christian faith. The cherished Mother Theresa was one such visitor, making India her home. Today India is home to over 25 million Christians - about the entire population of Australia! Over 3/4 of India's Christians (accounting for about 2.3% of the total Indian population) live in southern India.

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India Fleece for sale

When the temps drop below 80F (26C) in south India, it's time for some to get out the fleece. This photo was taken in Pondicherry along a street where one could buy Gap and other American branded clothes (made in India) at cheap prices.

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Kepi Caps

This policeman in Pondicherry is wearing a kepi, a red cap with a circular flat top traditionally worn by the French Army. Such headgear is one of many lasting influences of the French in the southern India town.

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Ecole Francais - in India?

This weekend I went with a friend to Pondicherry, a coastal town about 162 km south of Chennai. Our 200 year-old hotel, once a spacious house with high ceilings, was located within the area once known as the "Ville Blanche," meaning "White Town". When wandering through this French section, one could almost be mistaken in thinking that they were in France. Street signs, the characteristic blue metal background with white letters, are written in French. Names of hotels, restaurants, and even schools also bear French names. A pleasant park is a short walk away from the beach promenade, replete with benches, a central stately white colonnaded government building, and leisurely strollers. Near our hotel was the Ecole Francais d’Extreme Orient, one of many grand French buildings painted in bright hues. Even the streets were cleaner in this area.
Pondicherry was actually one of several French colonial settlements throughout the country, part of a scheme to gain dominance over India and possibly oust the British. In the late 1600’s, the French began building up Pondicherry, transforming it from a small fishing village into a town with a strategic port. The English and French fought for control over the town until 1816 when the French regained control, lasting until 1954 when the French handed over the city. Although the city’s grand buildings were destroyed during the French-English bickering, the French stubbornly rebuilt on top of old foundations.

Today Pondicherry is a popular destination for French tourists. Ties to France continue to be strong.

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Karthigai Deepam

As I was coming up the stairs to my apartment, I saw my neighbor creating a rather large kolam. Asking what the special occasion was, she told me that today was the Karthigai Deepam, a festival of lights celebrated in the Tamil month of Karthigai. In some households, the number of lamps lit are double the amount from the festival of Diwali, with the number of lamps doubled each day until Karthigai Deepam. Unlike Diwali which is celebrated throughout India, Karthigai Deepam is uniquely Tamilian.

After my neighbor deftly transformed the dotted grid of 8 points across on each edge of the hexagonal design and 15 points in the middle using fine rice flour, she placed five small oil lamps on the design. Because the family was in mourning (her father-in-law passed away one year ago), the design wasn’t as large as it normally would have been. In villages, she explained, the creation of the kolams becomes quite an affair, with a sense of competition to see who can create the largest or intricate kolam.

Invited inside her apartment, she gave me a sweet bowl of rice (which looked like Rice Crispies) cooked in jaggery (unrefined sugar made from the sap of palm trees) and shredded coconut. As I enjoyed the sweet treat, she turned on the TV, on which a live special celebration in Thiruvannamalai was taking place. As I had visited this holy place this August, I was particularly fascinated by how the huge temple grounds had been transformed into a near carnival-type atmosphere, illuminated with strings of white lights, fireworks, and mobs of people. My neighbor recalled the time she went to the event, uncomfortable with the sheer number of people. This year security was tighter, in light of the recent events in Mumbai. On the zenith of the hill I had ascended a few months earlier, a large torch was lit. Here it is believed that Shiva’s jothi (light of fire form that Shiva assumed) is visible on this night.

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Steeple Scaffolding

This image is "scaffolded" from the previous construction photo theme. While taking photos of a Kerala-style church building in Trivandrum, I found an old man staring back at me when looking through my lens. Although the steeple was not very tall, the construction scene still looked rather precarious.

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Church construction

Since I’m on the topic of construction, here are some photos of a church that is being built in my neighborhood. Note the rather crude scaffolding. No OSHA standards here!

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Piling on the Bricks

With a population of around 7.5 million, laborers are plentiful in Chennai. You see people sweeping the highways and roads with a broom, cleaning out the road drainage by hand (even during the rain), and conducting a fair amount of the construction with manual labor. This man carefully balanced himself as he proceeded to pile more bricks on top of each other, walking with the load on his head towards the apartment construction site. Watch your step!

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Get out those striped winter hats!

As I went out for my morning walk at 5:30, I actually felt a slight chill in the air. Not that it was cold, but for a place where temperatures rarely dip below 80 F (32 C), the morning temps around 70 (21 C) were a big change. While walking and then on my auto rickshaw ride to school, I noticed more people wearing those striped "hats" - essentially a wide knitted strip with an attached knitted band to tie below the chin. Older ladies with saris, men with shawls draped over their shoulders, children, and the many motorcyclists all donned these fashion headgear.

It reminded me of in Mali where during this time of year I would find the men huddled around the fire, wearing winter jackets and commercially knitted hats. Granted, the humidity during this time of year was very low. I received quizzical stares as I walked past them wearing only a long-sleeved cotton shirt, smiling as I enjoyed the morning air.

Now we'll see how I do when I go back to Wisconsin for Christmas....

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Melissa's artwork of India

I have now posted the paintings I have done of India on my website. Two are done in color pencil, one in watercolor, and the fourth in pastel. Here is a sneak peek:

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Soccer Net - or Water Polo?

Above are two pictures of the Gandhi Nagar Cricket & Sports Club. It is a favorite spot for young men who spend countless hours playing the country's favorite sport - cricket. During heavy rains the sports field tends to flood. Looking at the goal net reflecting in the water, one might wonder if they're looking at a water polo field instead....

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Cyclone Nisha's Aftermath

Although the cyclone has passed, we still are experiencing some after effects. Rain, albeit more intermittent, still likes to pour down in force. Streets just beginning to drain once again fill with water, making it difficult for pedestrians and motorists alike. Rivers and canals are now quite high, leaving only a few feet of space between lower bridges. I saw thatched huts submerged in the water, with only the sloped roof showing. Mud-brick thatched huts were also in danger of collapsing under the strain of so much rainfall. The family of my neighbor’s housekeeper had their house full of water. They stayed in my neighbor’s apartment until it subsided. How many others are in similar situations, with their simple homes built along the banks of rivers and canals? All total, 86 people perished in Tamil Nadu.

As for me, I am beginning to see the effects in my apartment. Wet spots on the wall and in the last two days I've found mold on stuff ranging from some clothing, leather items, wood, and textiles. Paper feels limp and damp. Yuck! I guess I know what I am doing tomorrow! If you have any tips on how to get rid of mold, send them this way.

These photos were taken a couple of days ago. The waters actually got higher, but I didn't want to risk my camera as it was raining. Actually, it's raining AGAIN!

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Cyclone Nisha and Chennai Floods

Today we had our first day off of school - not due to snowfall like I experienced last year in Belgrade, but due to the heavy rains associated with Cyclone Nisha. I couldn't find rainfall totals since the cyclone came on land, but on Wednesday alone, Chennai got over 5.5" (14cm). Considering that it rained just as hard today and there's more to come, the city will get a lot of rain.

I went for a short walk this morning when the rain abated for a bit, then later to my principal's house for lunch. Even in a few short hours, the water in front of their house rose considerably. The local cricket field once again resembles a pond. My neighbor later warned me not to go for a walk in the next two days, as power lines might be down and feeding electricity into the flooded streets. Indeed, over 22 people have died within the last 24 hours, mostly due to electrocution or walls falling in. One auto rickshaw driver got killed when a tree fell onto his vehicle. I thought of the poor people living in thatched huts near the rivers, canals, and sea. How many of their homes were flooded or destroyed? Considering the polluted nature of many of the region's rivers, I certainly wouldn't want that water going in my house! Once again, I realized how fortunate I am, as there are many who don't have a dry safe house to escape the rains.

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Terrorist attack in Mumbai

This morning when I checked my usual websites as part of my morning routine, I saw the news headlines in which a photo of the Taj Mahal Hotel in Mumbai (Bombay) was on fire, with the headline reading that a series of terrorist attacks had been carried out late last night. Two five-star hotels, a hospital, and a train station were attacked, with an unknown Islamic group claiming responsibility. Details are still unfolding, but it is known that over 80 are dead and over 200 injured. Hostages may have also been taken. There are some reports that the terrorists at the hotels were seeking to find USA and UK passport holders. Cosmopolitan Mumbai is the economic capital of India and the places were carefully chosen for maximum impact - frequented by foreigners, the wealthy, and high-ranking people.

Two of my former colleagues in Belgrade are teaching in Mumbai. Thankfully their apartment is located quite a distance from downtown where the events took place. As a precaution, their school is closed for the day, with all told to stay home and lay low.

Chennai, located in the southern state of Tamil Nadu, is far away from Mumbai and has different demographics. It has far fewer foreigners (toursits and expats) and is less developed/more sleepy- if one can say that for a city of over 7 million people! There are also far fewer Moslems here. I also have school off today, thanks to the weather. Like my colleagues in Mumbai, I will stay at home, using the opportunity to get some artwork done. Do know that I feel safe here.

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My First Cyclone

Yesterday afternoon the uncharacteristically strong winds invited the rains to join in. Since then, the rains have continued, at times quite heavy. From past experiences I knew that the ride to school would not be one to look forward to, but I had to leave anyway. One of the apartment residents was surprised that I was leaving, as the city's schools and colleges were canceled for the day. Not ours. Just like snowy days in which faculty & students felt like they should have had a day off, people were abuzz with the weather and the challenges they faced getting to school. For some, it took way over 2 1/2 hours just to get to school from across town. Thankfully, after school activities were canceled and everyone ordered to leave after the end of the school day. Instead of the auto rickshaw with its open sides I took to school, I got a ride in a car with a colleague. No splashing road water for me!

The reason for the sometimes heavy rain and strong (65 kmph) winds? Tropical Cyclone Nisha. Now over Tamil Nadu, this storm has caused flooding and up to 28 deaths, mostly due to electrocution or walls caving in. Many teachers (particularly those near the Bay of Bengal) were without power since last night. Not me! Finally one benefit of living near the Adyar River and not the sea. We were told to bring along our telephone trees and I saw many a teacher doing the "rain dance" hoping for a day off tomorrow. We'll see...

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One Year On: "One Sunday Morning"

Just one year ago I was writing about a heavy snowfall which caused a freak chain reaction leading to an electrical surge that could have sent up the school in flames. That was in Belgrade, Serbia. Now, one year on, I am in Chennai India - definitely a world away. With "fall" temperatures hovering around the low 80's (27°C), snowfall here is but a foreign concept. Empty snow-covered hills are replaced with flat, bustling, puddle-filled streets. Instead of the Sava River view from my apartment, I smell the Adyar River. I now go to a large purpose-built school instead of a small one whose main buildings are villas. Serbian and American names are replaced by Korean and Indian ones. Getting around consisted mainly of hopping on a tram, bus, or walking. Now I get to school with an auto rickshaw.

I miss my friends and colleagues in Belgrade. I enjoyed the change of seasons, the old architecture, and ease of getting around. I remind myself that India has much to offer - so much to see, great shopping opportunities, and exposure to cultures totally unfamiliar to me. Although I will never blend in here, I do look forward to getting more familiar with Chennai, meeting more of the local people and experiencing its many cultural events and various sights.

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St. Thomé Basilica, Chennai

San Thomé Basilica, located near Marina Beach in Chennai, is one of only three churches in the world built over the tomb of an Apostle of Jesus - St. Thomas, otherwise known as “Doubting Thomas.” An emboldened St. Thomas came to India in 52AD on the West Coast, preaching and setting up churches in the region of Kerala before making his way to the Eastern side of India, including Chennai. It was on a hill now known as “St. Thomas Mount” where he was martyred. The present-day church was erected over his tomb.

In 1956, Pope Pius XII elevated the church to the rank of a minor Basilica. Pope John Paul II also visited this important religious site.

San Thomé Basilica is built in the Gothic style, a distinctive landmark of Chennai. A large church, it is 155 feet in height with a nave of 112 x 33 feet and is filled with tall stained glass windows depicting St. Thomas and the other Apostles. The front of the church has a large crucifix sculpture of Jesus, with its kind eyes transfixed upon the viewer.

Off to one side a sculpture of Madonna and Child - “Our Lady of Mylapore” was encased behind glass, framed by a “curtain” of jasmine and other garlands of flowers. The basilica also includes a smaller adjoining chapel for mass, a small museum, gift shop, and a recently added entrance to the lower level where worshipers and tourists alike can view St. Thomas’ tomb without impacting services above.

I received a personal tour of the basilica, led by a young travel agent who proudly traces his ancestry back as a descendant of one of the original “St. Thomas Christians”. Some of the most important events in his life and that of his family took place within these walls – as well as being a central figure in daily life. The sky, initially a bright blue when we arrived, was now fading into an early evening sunset. In front of the church several men made preparations for carrying a smaller replica of a praying Mary around the church grounds.

See more photos on my website. For more information on San Thomé Basilica, visit this official website

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Do Videnja Yugo!

This morning I scanned the BBC website as I normally do every morning before I go to school. One article piqued my interest - Yugo production grinds to a halt. These cheap ($4,000) cars continue to be a mainstay in Serbia, owned by young and old alike. These cars definitely would not win prizes for their aesthetics & design (boxy & plain), nor do they win praises for safety ratings. Nonetheless, they continue to be a source of pride for Serbians, as one of the remaining symbols of former Yugoslavia. Like the country of its namesake, now the production line for Yugos is no longer. Do Videnja and farewell!

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