Ratnagiri, Udaigiri, Lalitgiri- Buddhist Sites

For a state now at around 97% Hindu, there is little in present-day Orissa that remains from its Buddhist past. The triplet Buddhist sites of Ratnagiri, Udaigiri, and Lalitgiri are some exceptions. Located about 100 km from Bhubaneswar, the drive to these sites is a pleasant day trip. The drive to the Jajpur district of Orissa was both pleasant and beautiful. Encircled by lush paddy fields and rivers, this agricultural region was both peaceful and bustling at the same time. Women were carrying large bundles of grass or firewood on their heads, men were ploughing in the small fields with oxen. Along the sides of the narrow road, cut grass was being dried; a nearly impossible obstacle for vehicles. Cow dung cakes were also being dried right on the roads. Cows, water buffalo, goats, and sheep also competed for road space, sometimes accompanied by herders.

My first destination was Ratnagiri, was a major Buddhist monastery and university dating back to 5^th century AD. It is located on a small hill overlooking vast plains and distant green hills. Excavations, first done between 1957 and 1960 reveal two large monasteries, one of which holds beautiful doorways, a cella sanctum, large stupa, Buddhist shrines, sculptures, and a massive Buddha. Rather plain-looking from the outside, the interior walls of the monastery revealed some beautiful carved statues. Some were carved into niches. Others were on large slabs, propped up against a wall in the central courtyard. Tiny monk’s cells also contained decorations. My favorite part was the superbly carved entrance doorway. Like the Surya Sun Gods at Konark, the doorway was of a contrasting stone – perhaps the same greenish chlorite stone was used. Decorations were organic and fluid, interspersed with some figures. While many of the small rooms were empty, one revealed a treat – a 4m high image of the seated Buddha, accompanied by other Buddhist divinities.   Walking on the grass around the many stupas, one could see pieces of carved rock everywhere. Peaking through the ground was the curled hair of a Buddha head. How much more must be below the surface!

The taxi then took me to Udaigiri “Sunrise Hill,” 6 km south of Ratnagiri. It still is being excavated, currently containing a rather large brick stupa with a rather intact form, two monasteries, and a number of carved sculptures. The carvings date back from between the 2^nd century BC to the 10^th century AD. The brick buildings were likely built around the 7^th century AD. The layout of the monastery was very similar to that in Ratnagiri. Once again, my favorite was the carvings around a doorway. While peeking into one of the roofless rooms to make sure no sculptures were to be seen, I was surprised by the presence of a yellow snake.

Our last destination was Lalitgiri “Hill of Grace,” about 10 km south of Udaigiri. It is believed to be the oldest Buddhist complex in Orissa, dating back to the 1^st century AD. Here, one can find a huge brick monastery, remains of a Shaitya hall, and quite a few stupas. The walk up to the main site was quite pleasant, the dirt road shaded by trees on both sides. Overall, less remained here of the walls, in some places only the foundations remained. A few slab sculptures and one seated Buddha sculpture was left amongst the ruins, while the majority of excavated items were housed in an on-site museum. Also on the property was a large stupa with a series of steps leading up to the top. From here, one had a great view of the green, countryside. As we left the site, we passed by some stone carvers, keeping alive the great tradition.

See more photos of the three Buddhist sites on my Flickr page

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Puri and the White Pagoda

After a brief visit to the beach at Puri, we entered the pilgrimage town, located about 60 km from Bhubaneswar. Puri is one of India’s most important pilgrimage centers and is vibrant throughout the year. Like all four-wheeled vehicles, our bus had to park a distance away from the Jagannath Temple- the main attraction of the city. Auto and bicycle rickshaw drivers enjoyed the extra business of transporting visitors right up to the temple entrance. Of course, cows lazily meandered the street, seemingly not bothered by the huge crowds. On the main street known as Bada Danda, stalls were set up selling scores of items catering to pilgrims; cotton wicks for lamps, puja items, flowers, framed images of Hindu gods, snacks, jewelry, and much more.

This 12^th century temple, nicknamed the “White Pagoda” by sailors to distinguish it from the Sun Temple, was also an important landmark. Its main spire rises 65 m high, dominating the skyline. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside, so I had to be content with any views I could capture by walking around its 6m high wall. As the rest of the tour members walked through the main gate guarded by a pair of colorful stone lions, I began my circumnavigation around the outer walls of the massive complex. At certain points I was able to get a better view of the main spire and three smaller shrines with pyramidal roofs. I passed by three other entrances to the temple, each with a different type of sculpted animal guarding them.

From the rooftop of a nearby business, I had a view of the Bada Danda and part of the temple complex. The temple kitchen area was pointed out to me, the largest kitchen in India. I imagined what the scene must look like during the annual Rath Yatra (Chariot Festival), in which the three main temple deities are hauled on huge and elaborately decorated chariots. The normally busy streets become densely packed with people, with excitement reaching a fervor pitch. Just imagine if chaos erupts during this time!

See more photos of Puri on my Flickr page

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Konark Sun Temple - part 3: Wheels and Bhogomandir

Perhaps the most distinctive symbol of the Sun Temple is the wheel, an official symbol of the Government of India and present on some rupee currency notes.  There is a pair for each month of the year. The 24 wheels can also represent the hours of the day. Within each wheel are eight spokes, signifying prahars (3-hour periods) of a day. Each spoke contains a medallion with a different figurative carving. The protruding central axle also contains a decorative medallion. Our tour guide told us that one could tell the exact time of day by reading the wheel.

Next to the Sun Temple is the Bhogmandir – the “Hall of Offerings.” The stairs leading up to this now-roofless structure is framed by monstrous lions leaping over smaller, cowering elephants. Complementing the Sun Temple, the Hall of Offerings columns and platform contain richly decorated carvings of dancers portraying poses still used in classical Odissi dance. This structure is now used as a stage for special annual dance festivals.

See more photos of the Konark Sun Temple on my Flickr page

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Konark Sun Temple - part 2: Surya Sun God

Taking the stairs up the 3.9 m platform, one can get an even closer look at the large Surya – majestic images of the Sun God surrounded by his wives and other deities. Three life-size statues of Surya on the back and two sides of the temple, made of a greenish chlorite stone, are positioned so that the sun’s rays fall on the Sun God’s face alternating at dawn, noon, and sunset.

Even the three-tiered roof is resplendent with carvings. My favorite was the sculptures of women playing woodwind instruments and the cymbals. Their poses were so highly animated, it would be easy to imagine them actually moving with the music. The interior of the temple has been completely filled in, an attempt to keep the structure from collapsing. Scaffolding covers one side of the structure. The temple once had a huge tower that was visible far out at sea, but it collapsed in the 19^th century. One can still see the original iron beams above the doors. The temple’s soft khondalite stone was also seriously eroded by seawinds and sand. Much of the structure lay buried for centuries under sand and was only excavated in the early 20^th century.

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Melissa's Art Exhibition "My Neighbors & Me"

Last night was the opening night for my art exhibition in Chennai, India at the Apparao Gallery. Considering it was a Thursday night, it was well attended. Our school was well represented - a great support. A few newspapers and one TV station did interviews. Here is one article. For the event, I wore my (only) sari, a purple silk/cotton sari from Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu. The show appeared to be well-received, with visitors commenting on the capture of personality, quest for details, use of materials, and portrayal of the common person. Here are a few photos:

You may preview the pieces at the show at http://www.apparaogalleries.com/events_view_exhibitions.php?id=25. Pieces are for sale.
The show continues at the Apparao Gallery through the end of the month.

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Konark Sun Temple - part 1

The highlight of the trip was the Sun Temple in Konark. Located about 60 km from Bhubaneswar, this 13^th century temple is deservedly on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. Dubbed the Black Pagoda by sailors who had frequent shipwrecks along the coast, the temple is in the shape of a massive chariot, pulled by seven galloping horses (one for every day of the week) whose mission is to carry the Sun God across the sky. Only parts of the horses remain, but the twenty-four wheels each of which are 3m high are in remarkable condition. The horses and other parts of the many structures at Konark were victims of a Muslim army sacking in the 15^th century.

A long walkway leads up to the temple, emphasizing the importance of the scene and causing increased anticipation as if one was coming to visit a king. Reaching the temple, the wait was not in vain. Here before me was a structure with a profusion of carved images and scenes of varying sizes and subject matter, all seemingly wriggling with life. The sheer volume of images could easily cause one to become overwhelmed and lose focus on anything, but for those that take the time to actually look and see, the details are a treat for the eye. You could close our eyes and snap away with your camera and get a wonderful picture no matter where you photographed. Here one will find dancing figures and those playing instruments, whose details give us a glimpse into the jewelry, clothing and hairstyles of the day. Throughout the temple one can see vividly erotic scenes based on the Kama Sutra including sexual acts – sometimes between a man and woman, one man and several women, with animals, and more. One theory is that the erotic art was meant to symbolize the ecstatic bliss enjoyed by the soul when it unites with the divine. Just next to some of these erotic scenes are more calm carvings of snake goddesses.  Other scenes are more of everyday life – a woman leaving for pilgrimage, another washing her hair, playing instruments, and fondly caressing a bird. Others are more religious, including images of various Hindu cults – an indication of religious tolerance at the time for different sects. Our guide pointed out the court scene – a relief carving depicting the king being presented with a giraffe – an indication of the maritime trade with Africa. Another shows a king seated on an elephant, leading a discussion to nobles & priests whose elephants and horses stand below. Lining the base of the temple platform are friezes of hunting scenes, military processions, elephants uprooting trees, attempts to capture elephants, rows of athletes, ladies cooking, and other everyday life scenes.

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Pipli, Appliqué Village

Back in a tour bus (this one was new and air-conditioned), our first destination for the day was Pipli, a village of artisans about 15 km south of Bhubaneswar. This village is famous for its colorful appliqué textiles, a craft that originally served temples. Using some of the same techniques and vivid color combinations, Pipli artisans create garden umbrellas, wall hangings, bags, and hanging lanterns/wind socks. Common motifs include the wide–eyed face of Lord Jagannath, peacocks, birds, flowers, animals, children, flowers, and radial designs. The style and subject matter depiction on some of the wall hangings and bags reminded me of Hmong Story Cloths, with a rather “folk art” style, combination of appliqué and embroidered enhancements to the village or animal scenes.

We arrived there rather early before some of the shops lining the road were open. Stacked on tables and shelves were piles of finished pieces. If you expressed any interest, the shop person happily opened up one piece after another, tossing it into a “maybe” or “no” pile. With less than half an hour total time at the village, this wasn’t a very efficient way to see things.  In a couple of shops, one could see sewing in action using old-fashioned treadle sewing machines so common in India.

See more photos of the appliqué arts of Pipli on my Flickr page 

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On to Orissa, Rajarani Temple

Another overnight train later, I arrived at the Bhubaneswar train station in the state of Orissa. Located two states north of Tamil Nadu, Orissa is famous for its ancient Hindu temples and large tribal population. Originally I had planned to visit some of the tribes, but due to renewed tribal violence and tensions, decided that the photo opportunities were not worth the risk. Instead, I would base myself out of the capital city of Bhubaneswar and take a couple day trips from there. At the train station, a sister of one of our local Indian teachers warmly met me. It was quite easy to spot me, as I was the only redhead around and perhaps the only white person as well.

On the way to the guest house where I would be staying, I immediately noticed at how much cleaner Bhubaneswar appeared than other Indian cities, including Chennai. Very little rubbish was thrown about, murals featuring Orissa’s traditional designs, musical instruments, sights, and Hindu mythology cheered up the walls. It also seemed a bit calmer; I guess less traffic and wider roads helps.

Rajarani Temple
That evening after setting up the tour itinerary for the next few days, my gracious Orissa host took me to one of Bhubaneswar’s ancient Hindu temples – the 11^th century Rajarani Temple. Set a pleasant walk on the far side of a walled grassy area, this temple had beautiful carvings on its spire. The sun was setting, filling the sky with warm colors and casting its colors onto the stone structure. The scene was tranquil, enhanced by a beautifully manicured lawn, flowering bushes, and trees. While the bottom part of the temple was rather plain, there still was a detail feast for the eyes, including some slender female figures and guardian figures. Not knowing that we would be doing any sightseeing, I hadn’t brought along my camera. The very substandard photos taken with my cell phone would have to do. Inside the temple was bare – no presiding deities here. It smelled a bit of urine (hopefully bat and not human), so I didn’t linger long.

Later that evening, we enjoyed ourselves at a café where we met yet another sister, exchanging thoughts and ideas. I even tried some local “fast food” with the encouragement of my hosts. It was filling and tasty.

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More photos Fishing Harbor

For those interested in seeing more photos I took of the people at the Fishing Harbor in Vizag, visit my Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/melissaenderle/sets/72157622563843157/

Lots of great faces. I can't wait to have some time to paint them!

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The People of Vizag Fishing Harbor

Passing by the grounded submarine which the city claimed and then turned into a museum, we went to what would be our final destination – a boat ride from the fishing harbor. Nearing the area, I noticed tiny dried fish lining the edges of the paved road. Vehicles, apparently used to this practice, simply moved closer to the center of the road or swerved to avoid running over the fish. Turning into the harbor road, I was greeted with a sight that caught my eye and a smell that turned off all the Indians in our car. Yes, the smell of fish was quite overpowering, but I didn’t care. What I saw were “real” people with wizened faces, triple-pierced noses, and scarves amidst large piles and baskets of dried fish. The scene was a bustle of activity, people laboring much the way they probably did a hundred years ago. I intended to head back to this place when the others in the car did the boat ride. Alas, between the 60 rupee ($1.28) fee and strong fishy smell, no one was interested in taking the boat ride. Sadly the car once again drove past the fish workers. Upon hearing that the tour had ended albeit nearly 3 hours early (several museums were closed due to holiday), I asked the guide to take me back to the fishing harbor. I could tell that the driver and guide were a bit impatient, but I was determined to spend at least a few minutes here, a scene so rich in photo documentary possibilities. Between meeting the people, witnessing their excitement as they saw photos of themselves, and being offered a stogie by a woman (of which I politely refused), this was my favorite part of the entire Vizag tour.

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Rushikonda Beach, Vizag

After lunch at a hotel overlooking the beach, we had about half an hour to spend at the Rushikonda Beach. It was quite a bit cleaner than the ones in Chennai and would have been a good spot to enjoy. Not having swim clothes, I just pulled up my pants legs and walked in a bit. Women walked in with their saris, enjoying the time with their children. Men and boys went in with their boxing shorts. The water was nearly the temperature of a bath. Standing in one place, at times I was on wet sand, then shallow water, and suddenly the water was close to my knees. I was surprised that there weren’t more tourists here, but perhaps it wasn’t the right season yet. I can imagine that the area would be good for water sports. After posing for several photographs with a group of people, I decided I had enough sun and went towards the fishing boats. Here, a man was busy repairing nets. Running a span of the beach were some stalls selling hideous sea shell crafts, many incorporating Hindu gods. Nothing even remotely appealed to me. Once again I was asked to pose with some young people, as they eagerly took a number of photos with their cell phones. Such a celebrity this red head is getting to be!

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Thotlakonda, Bhuddhist Complex

Our next destination was Thotlakonda, a Buddhist complex 16 km from Vizag. Also on a hill, the complex which was active between 200 BC and 200 AD offered beautiful views of the sea and surrounding hills. Although there wasn’t a whole lot left to see, I can imagine how tranquil it must have been for the Buddhist monks who meditated here and visiting monks who came from as far away as China and Burma. One could see foundations of a kitchen, tiny dormitory rooms, stone-cut troughs, stupas, a dining hall, and eleven rainwater tanks. Destroyed by Hindus, the site was rediscovered recently via an aerial survey and excavated in the late 1980’s and early 90’s.

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Kailasagiri, Vizag

Located on one of the main hills overlooking Vizag is Kailasagiri. From here, one has a panoramic view of natural harbor of Vizag, the sprawling city, and bay. Well maintained with plenty of shade trees, grassy areas, flowers, and well-manicured shrubs, this would be a great spot for picnic. In our short amount of time, we took the rope car down for a pretty (but similar) view, walked around a bit of the area, and admired the 40 meter high white statues of Shiva and Parvathi. I would have liked to walk through the park a bit more but didn’t want to be late back at the vehicle. It turned out that I would have had plenty of time, as the others slowly wandered back over 20 minutes late – grrr.

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Simhachalam Temple, Andhra Pradesh

The next day I took the Vizag Heritage Tour. The first destination was the Simhachalam Temple, located on a picturesque tree-covered hill known as “Lion’s Hill” about 16 km away from the city. This Hindu temple is dedicated to Lord Varaha Narasimha, an incarnation of Vishnu. According to several Internet sources, it is the second richest temple (after Tirpati) in India. It is also Andhra Pradesh’s most famous temple and is a common pilgrimage for devotees. The newer entrance tower was painted white and was in a similar style to the gopurams of Tamil Nadu. The real treasure was the ancient temple, constructed some time in the 9^th or 10^th century. The place was abuzz with people, many of whom had just-shaved heads. Women were selling orange petals. In the parking area, one could choose from a plethora of religious trinkets, snacks, and cheap Chinese toys.

After placing my sandals in the holding slot (shoes are prohibited in temples), I walked towards the stone temple. Lion-like figures formed the columns, lined up in a row. The surface of the temple was covered with mythical creatures, men doing heroic deeds, dancing figures, and a central boar-like headed creature named Vamana. The morning sunlight cast itself right on a smooth column containing inscriptions of ancient-looking writing that probably was in Telugu. Next to it, people were giving doing pujas to a bull figure, offering flowers, bananas, incense, and coconut. I would have liked to have stayed to admire the scene and the beautiful exterior of the temple, but the tour guide ushered me through a gate in order to see the interior. There were two lines – one free (which had a long slow-moving line), and the other paid. Different ceremonies were going on inside. I passed by the sacred statue of the main deity covered in sandalwood paste that is revealed in its true form only 12 hours of the year, but didn’t understand its significance. I was also allowed to enter a tiny temple in which a Lingam was placed in the middle and worship underway. I preferred watching briefly through an open door, decorated with hanging garlands of marigolds. Next to that was a large circular open-air thatched structure with a short wall. Inside were several calves, each with a brightly beaded necklace.

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Araku Valley Tour

The bus took us to our first destination, the Tribal Museum. The spiral walkway inside the small museum took us past diorama type displays of life-sized tribal people, tribal tools. jewelry, and musical instruments. The bus then ushered us to a rather disappointing botanical garden with a toy train, and then to a hotel for lunch. After a traditional South Indian meal eaten with our fingers, we went outside and watched a Dhimsa dance performed by one of the 17 indigenous tribes of the region. It was rather challenging photographing the dance, as the women dancers wove in and out, abruptly changed directions, and alternated between full height and nearly crouching. Capturing the faces of the fast-paced tribal women was further complicated by the tourists who joined in the dance.

Moving onward, we stopped at a scenic vista to absorb the view of the valley and then drove past coffee plantations along the steep sides of the road. The yet-unripe coffee was shaded by trees. Was this co-existence needed for the coffee or was it simply a way of maximizing land use with multiple crops? Also present were groves of cashew nut trees. Located about 29 km from the Araku Valley were the Borra Caves. One of the largest and deepest caves in the country (80 m depth), the opening of the cave was impressively wide. A paved path and well-maintained series of steps led visitors through the cave, with its varied sizes of stalactites and stalagmites illuminated by carefully spaced lights. Contrary to most caves I’ve been in, the temperature inside wasn’t noticeably cooler.  With several minutes to spare, I sat on a plastic chair and enjoyed the picturesque valley with its fast-moving stream below.

With the light quickly fading, we boarded the bus once again and headed towards Vizag. Considering the severe turns, narrow road and size of the bus, the driver moved at a rather fast pace through the mountain roads. At around 8pm, we finally were back to Vizag. It had been a long, but enjoyable day.

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Train Ride to the Araku Valley

While it was still dark, I got dressed, took an auto rickshaw, and arrived at the train station with time to spare. At 6am, the train would depart for the Araku Valley, a hill station about 115 km away from Vizag and located close to the border with Orissa. With an elevation of between 600 and 900 meters above sea level, this hill station of the Eastern Ghats lures visitors with its scenic beauty and pleasant climate.

I had been told by others who had taken the trip that the ride to the valley was a treat in itself, and they were right. Through the open windows of the train, one could see the lush landscape of Andhra Pradesh. For the first couple of hours, the terrain was quite flat, dominated by rice paddies, palm trees, and fields of millet. Abruptly, the train began to climb. On one side of the train one could see the tree-covered hills and valley below. The view on the other side was mostly obscured by the stone hill around which the train tracked hugged. We passed through the first of many tunnels somewhere around 46 in all. From another train car we could hear the excited screams of schoolchildren as the length of the tunnel blocked out all light. A few tunnels after, the tour guide in our car turned off the light inside the train car, making everything totally dark. Occasionally a small waterfall cascaded down the rock surface. Once in a while things opened up and one could see the landscape from both sides of the train. Trees of the nearby hills were a dark green, while the distant ones were shrouded in atmospheric haze. Rivers and streams accented the green land. Pockets of terraced plots dotted the hills, eeking out available farming land. Hampered by the bars across the windows, some began standing next to the open train doors, really taking in the scenery. I also did this for a while, admiring the unfettered view. A few times the train stopped at small stations. Women balancing wide squat woven baskets on their heads emerged on the train, selling snacks and fruit. Young men carried their metal pots of coffee and chai, pouring the hot sweet liquid into small plastic cups for customers. 

Between the scenic ride and conversations with the pleasant Indian eye surgeon sitting next to me, the time went by quickly; I could have gone on for a while. Alas, we were at the last station, with the tourism busses waiting for us.

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Diwali Celebration in the Streets of Vizag

Much as in Chennai, the people of Vizag celebrated Diwali with plenty of firecrakers and fireworks. While the lead-up to Diwali included lots of bangs and lights, this night sounded more like a war zone. Looking outside the balcony of my hotel, I could see children in a neighboring house carefully lighting the small clay lamps – a tranquil scene amidst the chaos. Knowing that sleep was impossible, I grabbed my camera and headed outside.

Despite the dim street lights, the street was rather lit up. Firecrackers were lit and set off on the roads and side streets. Fireworks boomed above. Sparklers illuminated the faces of jovial young people. The noise was rather deafening. Even in the night, I drew attention. People eagerly lit one sparkler after another, with others crowding around them to be in the picture. Giggles emerged as I showed them the camera’s LCD. People excitedly encouraged family members inside the house to come out to be in the picture.  Some even invited me for dinner, but I replied that I had already eaten (which was true).  Finally, after midnight things calmed down a bit, enough that I was able to go back to the hotel and use the air conditioner to drown out some of the remaining noise. Looking out the window, I could still see brief bursts of light. Some terracotta lamps still glowed – a peaceful symbol I tried to focus on as I went to bed.

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Train Ride to Vizag

Safely aboard the Howrah Express Mail Train bound northward towards Vizag, I settled into my berth in the 2-tier AC sleeper car. Ah, this was so much better than the non-AC 3-tier traveling that we had done in Rajasthan; no desert sands spewing in, a climate-controlled environment, less people, and even a pillow and bed sheets provided! Checking out the bathrooms, I was pleased to see a fairly clean (by Indian standards) Western toilet with toilet paper – a big step from the scary toilets in the 2^nd-class non-AC trains we previously took! I turned on my iPod, hoping that the music would drown out the cell phone talking by the two men in the upper bunks, one of who switched between two phones.

The train rocked back and forth during the night, crossing the Tamil Nadu border and into Andhra Pradesh. Every once in a while the train would stop, rather briefly in small villages and longer at larger stations. Dawn revealed a serene landscape, the soft glow of the emerging sun behind the fog rolling over the paddy fields. Palm trees silhouetted against the increasingly warm-colored sky. Already in early morning, farmers were out in the fields, with rice being the dominant crop. The train tracks went past thatched huts with cows in the yard and mounded piles of hay in the fields. Men bathed in rivers and pools of water. Women washed clothes by hand in the rivers, laying out the cloth on the nearby fields.

Soon the vendors began walking through the aisles of the moving train, calling out chai, coffee, omelet, and other Indian breakfast items. As the train continued northward, it relieved itself of more passengers, with a few boarding. Finally, around 1pm, we arrived at the railway station of Vizag, otherwise known as Visakhaptnam.

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Looking at the other side of things

I generally perceive the media as being biased and narrow-minded. Nonetheless, I scan the online news. This morning BBC reported about the Karadzic trial but also included a posting about Serbia's mixed feelings about the case. BBC, even during the bombing campaign and sanctions against Serbia was one of the few who actually sought to get input from residents of Belgrade, etc. Journalists who did this found a very different side. I would like to see this continue, as there is more than one side to the story and the public deserves to hear it.

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Chennai Central Train Station

My trip to Andhra Pradesh and Orissa (two Indian states north of Tamil Nadu) began at the train station. This was the first time I had taken a train from Chennai. Not surprisingly, the large station was crowded with people eager to travel on the Diwali holiday. I had been warned about the huge rats, but thankfully I saw none.

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Tunisia's President Re-Elected - Again

The current president of Tunisia has been re-elected for his fifth term. Ben Ali has already served 23 years as President, with normal terms lasting 5 years. With about 84% voter turnout, Ben Ali secured almost 90% of the votes - less than in 2004 when he received 95%, but impressive nonetheless. The African Union representative called the voting fair, but others once again cried foul play.

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That's Some Bunny!

As I said yesterday, one can buy quite an assortment at the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Bangkok. This stall was selling bunnies and related accessories - yup, even cute outfits for the fluffy creatures. With those frilly outfits, I sure hope all these bunnies are girls!

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Chatuchak Weekend Market

If you're into shopping and don't mind looking around for a while, Bangkok's Weekend Market is for you. With over 15,000 stalls on 35 acres, there's something for everyone. Everything from goldfish to silk scarves to Levis jeans can be had here. Located at the end of the Skytrain line, the Weekend market is easy to get to and attracts locals and visitors alike - over 200,000 per day. Thankfully things are basically organized by content item, so you can probably avoid ever having to see the pitiful caged puppies if you're only interested in silk table runners or bronze Buddhas.

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A Monumental King

The monumental image of Thailand's King Bhumibol Adulyadej on this Sukhumvit skyscraper attests to his esteemed status. King Bhumibol Adulyadej is the world's longest-serving monarch, having come to the throne in 1946. One of the major faux pas in Thailand is to say or do anything that is disrespectful towards the monarchy. During my brief visit in Bangkok, the front page of the newspapers had daily updates as to what the elderly king's health status was.

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Thai Orchids

One thing that thrives well in Thailand's tropical climate are orchids. A national symbol, orchids of Thailand are exported all over the world. These orchids were photographed at the Jim Thompson House.

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Canal Homes, Bangkok

The canals of Bangkok continue to be a popular means of transport for those who don't want to deal with the congested streets. Houses line the banks of the canals, a testament to the importance of waterways in Bangkok's history. A few homes on stilts still remain, but most homes are rather unremarkable or are in a dilapidated state.

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Jim Thompson House, Bangkok

Tucked away on a quiet, narrow street two blocks from Bangkok's chic Siam Square shopping mall is the Jim Thompson House. A military officer in Bangkok following World War II, the American Jim Thompson fell in love with Bangkok and decided to return and live there permanently.

Jim Thompson, an architect by trade, constructed his house by combining six teak buildings representing the best of Thai architecture. Many of these buildings were over 200 years old at the time and were easily dismantled and moved from places such as the old capital of Ayudhya. Adhering to customs of traditional Thai homes, Thompson had his houses elevated a full story above the ground so as to avoid flooding during the rainy season. Just beyond the thick foliage of the property is the river, still used for efficient transportation. The fired roof tiles also follow the old style. The red paint we see is a preservative typical of old Thai buildings.

Inside, the house is a mixture of traditional and Western styles. A large flat sofa in the living room provides an area for a nap or meeting guests. Statues of Buddha and rare Buddhist  paintings adorn the walls. Chinese commodes cleverly disguised as ceramic frogs and cats sit in the bedrooms. Elevated thresholds prevent babies from crawling out and evil spirits from entering. Jim also added some modern amenities such as a full table with chairs, chandeliers, and toilet.

Jim Thompson moved into his house on a spring day in 1959, the date designated as auspicious by an astrologer he visited. Thompson began amassing a collection of Asian art that began to draw considerable interest, enough so that he opened his house to the public. Donated funds went to Thai charities and projects that aimed to preserve Thailand's rich cultural heritage.

Aside from the homes, art collection and beautiful garden, Jim Thompson is credited with reviving the ancient Thai craft of silk handweaving. Combining his design and textile coloring skills, Thompson directed the creation of high-quality silk products that are still highly revered today.

While on a trip to the highlands of Malaysia in 1967, Thompson mysteriously disappeared without a clue or trace. In 1976 the James H.W. Thompson Foundation was established, continuing the preservation of Thailand's rich artistic and cultural heritage. The Foundation supports research, publications, and seminar projects to further its mission.

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