Jaisalmer havelis and colorful citizens

After a leisurely breakfast on top of our hotel, we began our architectural tour of the old city. The morning light cast sculptural shadows on the sandstone havelis, built by weathy merchants in the 19th and 20th centuries. I was particularly drawn to the protruding latticed jalis, whose intricate screens were masterfully carved out of sandstone. I imagined the women who once gazed through these windows, capturing glimpses of the outside world without being noticed. Some of the havelis were converted into hotels; others contained tempting textiles and crafts of Rajasthan.

The narrow streets were a hub of quiet activity and life. Women sat on the doorsteps watching passers-by. Water poured from pipes out of the homes and into the street gutters. Men got their daily shave at barber’s. A punji player sat in a corner, puffing his cheeks as he blew through the instrument. Children sat on the floor of their school, a view framed through the large open door. Colorful marionettes hung on a wall, waiting for a buyer. Colorful laundry was strung out against a whitewashed façade. Cows meandered through the streets; a long-haired goat rested in the shade, its ruffled pink tufts on its head causing curious glances.

The bus station and local markets provided particularly colorful photographic opportunities. Men wearing various colored turbans chatted as they sipped chai and caught up on the latest gossip. Women wearing tribal jewelry and dress sold vegetables and clay pots. A religious swamy paused and smiled at us before walking on, fingering the natural beads around his neck. Women carried cooking gear on their heads, gracefully walking through the busy street.

Tired from sightseeing and shopping, we enjoyed a saffron lassi at a restaurant overlooking the fort’s courtyard. Lights illuminated the courtyard’s occupants - some dogs and cows. The dogs began fighting, at which time the cows got up, charging at the dogs and effectively breaking up the fight. Satisfied with their work, the cows then laid down and rested.

See more photos of Jaisalmer on Flickr

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Walking through the Jaisalmer Fort

Once again out on the main courtyard just outside of the palace, it was easy to imagine the events that occurred in this square; announcements of the maharaja, extravagant entertainment for VIPs, and the assemblage of troops ready to do battle. Following a cow’s lead, I meandered through narrow stone-paved alleys, past temples, residents outside their doors, and a seemingly endless number of shopkeepers inviting me to look inside their shop. Sometimes the cows got a bit feisty, butting passers-by. Others lazed in the middle of the path. All left their “calling card” along the way, forcing people to watch where they were stepping. Although most of this ancient living fort was in remarkable shape, there were reminders of its precarious situation. Some of the buildings were in ruins and a few bastions had collapsed, the high water demands placing stress on its structure. Large amounts of rubbish was dumped along one part of the fortress’ walls, leading us to question whether the view was worth maneuvering around the litter.

In front of one house freshly-painted blue with a mural of Ganesh and dates below it were some women applying henna to their feet and hands. As one of the young women quickly and confidently squeezed out the henna onto the hands and feet of my friend, she explained that she had been recently married and that the date below the Ganesh mural marked her wedding. Strung between her house and the building across the narrow street was a mesh of grid-like silver tinsel. A girl created mehendi on my hand as well, but the designs were less elaborate and reminded me more of doodles, revealing that she had a lot of practicing to do before being ready to adorn the hands and feet of friends and relatives for important events.


See more photos of Jaisalmer on Flickr

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Rajmahal, Jaisalmer

Continuing onward through the series of imposing gates and smooth pavement stones of the fort, I hurried past the souvenir vendors and headed to the Rajmahal, the former maharaja’s seven-storey palace. The included audio tour provided additional information as I made my way through the open courtyard, mirrored and painted rooms, blue tiles, short doorways (so people would adopt a humble pose), throne, stone-carved lattice windows, up the unevenly spaced narrow stairs and to the rooftop. From here I had a panoramic view of the fort, including its myriad of shops and temples of the Jain and Hindu varieties. Pigeons flew by, landing on the bangaldar eaves and other overhangs. Round rocks that looked like cannonballs were perched on top of some battlements, appearing ready for approaching invaders. Past the walls of the fort built in 1156 lay the city down below and beyond that the barren landscape of the Great Thar Desert.

See more photos of Jaisalmer on Flickr

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Jaisalmer - arrival, walk up to fort

After about 17 hours, our train finally arrives in the town of Jaisalmer, located near the Pakistan border. Refreshed by a much-needed shower, we enjoyed a meal on the rooftop of our hotel, our favorite eating spot of the entire trip. Here we had an excellent view of the old city and the dominating fort perched above the 80 m-high Trikuta (Three-Peaked) Hill. Constructed in yellow sandstone dominating the entire old city, we would see its colors glow in the late afternoon sun, contrast with the clear blue sky, or become nearly obscured by sands blowing from the Thar Desert.

As I sipped my fresh mango lassi, I surveyed the view. The flat tops of the buildings now sported black water tanks, laundry, hotel restaurants, and the occasional satellite dish. The narrow streets were nearly invisible in the sea of sandstone buildings sloping up towards the fort. The sound of drums could be heard, emanating from a Hindu temple just outside the fort. The putter of a motorcycle or auto rickshaw was occasionally heard but never became pervasive. An addition to building next to us now blocked the view to a well-known haveli, a majestic merchant’s house from Jaisalmer’s glorious past. From the 16th to 18th century, this town was a strategic position on the camel-train routes between India and Central Asia, bring great wealth. As shipping trade began to dominate and Mumbai emerged, Jaisalmer began to decline. Today it relies mostly on tourism which is subject to declines when tensions flare along the Pakistan border.

With my trusty camera around my neck, I began my ascent up the narrow streets towards the fort. To either side of this golden jungle were small shops selling silver jewelry, spices, textiles, embroidered leather jooti slippers, snacks and water. Through an open door I saw a man’s face lathered up, ready to be shaved by the barber. In front of the first fort gate several women wearing a matching kanchi (long, loose blouse), matching ghagra (skirt), complementing odhni, and assortment of bangles and tribal jewelry approached me, asking if I wanted to purchase some anklets. I could see that they were of very cheap quality, but the photos I took made the small rupee purchase well worth it.

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Tamil Nadu for Tamil Tigers

The Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu (southern Indian state of which Chennai is the capital) issued a general strike for today. The goal of the strike was to demand a permanent ceasefire between the Liberation Tamil Tigers of Eelam (LTTE) and the Sri Lankan government. Businesses, schools, government, and all other workers were asked to participate in the general strike, showing solidarity, regardless of one's political affiliation.

Regardless of the news source and supporting side, it is apparent that the Tamil civilians are the main causalties of the continued fighting. The UN estimates that around 100,000 civilians have escaped, but at least that many still remain trapped. Over 25,000 are now huddled in refugee tent camps, with others seeking to go to India via boat. It also estimates that over 4,500 civilians have been killed in the last three months. The military claims that only about 30 have died in the last few days, but the LTTE puts that figure much, much higher. The organization, labeled as a terrorist group by many countries, points blame at the government for targeting innocent civilans. The Sri Lankan government claims that the rebel group is using civilians as human shields.

Even while the strike is going on, its efficacy is already dubious. Some businesses decided to stay open, citing its production requirement ties overseas. Others simply couldn't afford a loss of one day's earnings. Opposing politicians also running in the election stated that the strike was simply a political ploy and smokescreen for garnering votes for the upcoming election - not true concern for the Tamils in Sri Lanka. Our school decided to close for the day, taking precautions from potential (but unlikely) protesting, alsong with concerns about the public transport system, upon which both families and staff are dependent. Judging from the numbers of honking horns I hear outside, for many, the day continues as normal.

I pray that the citizens still trapped in the war zone are allowed to leave and seek safety. For the remaining fighters of the LTTE, the situation does not look good. They are now confined to an 8 square mile area, with a small number of fighters left and two key figures have just surrendered. The hope of a separate state now looks doomed.

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Train Ride to Jaisslamer

Grabbing some fruit & water from the train station, we boarded into the 2nd class non-AC sleeper car. On schedule, the train rocked into motion, bound for its final destination of Jaisalmer. Bordering the train tracks were small, shabby-looking dwellings - a large contrast to the tree and flower-lined spacious boulevards and stately buildings we saw a few hours earlier. As evening descended, the windows were closed to prevent the mosquitoes and dust from entering. The fan above only operated at a high speed, so I was particularly grateful for the bedsheet I had brought along. Despite the repeated stops (Express doesn’t mean direct without stops), noise, occasional smells from the bathroom, and requests to show our ticket, we somehow managed to get a few hours of sleep.

The emerging colors of dawn beckoned me to sit up. Before us was a vastly different landscape. The green of Delhi was replaced by brown barren-looking earth, interrupted by occasional scrubby trees or huts constructed of stone slabs or mud. Carefully piled stones or fences made out of the same vertical stone slabs demarcated the fields. Wheat grew in some fields, with the mostly female workers harvesting by hand, gathering bundles together likely in much the same way as they did in Biblical times. The train stopped for various intervals, with the train begging to empty as we neared our desert destination. A life-blood of these Indian towns, the small train stations enabled us to glimpse part of its events: a young woman brightly clad in a odhni scarf and matching sari talking on her cell phone with her bonnet-clad infant looking up at her with his eyeliner-decorated eyes, two wrinkled men wearing red turbans chatting as they sip sweet tea, and a woman patiently squatting on the platform with a watch peeking through the large collection of bangles around her wrist. To one side of the track I see men already taking their first tea break of the day, pausing from their labor of constructing a track using concrete railroad ties. As the train once again begins, we pass by a truck carrying a mound of colorful mattresses. Children run towards the train and wave, excitedly pointing as we wave back.

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Indira Ghandhi Museum and other Delhi Sights

Back in Old Delhi, we passed by small shops lining the street. A tangled mess of wires left us wondering how safe this antiquated phone/electrical system really was. Hungry, we settled on a rather uninspiring lunch. We then visited the Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum, housed in her former residence. The extremely informative exhibit comprising of newspaper clippings, personal belongings, letters, photos, and explanations enlightened us to the commitment her family had towards India and the incredible hardships they all faced, including multiple assassinations and imprisonment. Outside the house was a path covered in crystal, including a very touching clear glass portion marking the spot where she collapsed when shot by a Sikh bodyguard. We left there, moved and in reverence. With some time to spare, our driver took us to the India Gate and nearby Secretariat buildings.

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Red Fort, Delhi

In Old Delhi, our first destination was the Red Fort, completed in 1648. Successfully using our employment papers, we were able to get in with the drastically reduced local ticket price. We followed the tourists through the Lahore Gate, so-named because it faces the city of Lahore. The vaulted archade known as Chatta Chowk contained quite a few shops selling goods from Rajasthan, but we ignored them, knowing that there would be plenty of authentic shopping opportunities once in Rajasthan. We then quickly visited the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) and wandered through the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), admiring the graceful white marble arches with their delicate inlaid designs. We peered through the window of the hammam, the cool marble reflected by window light. We glimpsed the domes of the Pearl Mosque (1659), whose structure was otherwise obscured by a high wall. Disappointed that the restaurant did not serve food until later, we headed back towards the Lahore Gate, passing by some ugly barracks constructed by the British.

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Trip to Rajasthan

For spring break two friends and I took a trip to Rajasthan, a western state of India bordering Pakistan. With two 8GB SDHC memory cards and bag less than half-full, I was ready to document the fascinating color, culture, and architecture of the area and bring back some of Rajasthan's famed textiles. Taking a variety of transportation (walking, camel, rickshaw, autorickshaw, car, train, and plane), we photographed, shopped, and ate our way through Rajasthan.

See my Rajasthan photos on Flicker http://www.flickr.com/photos/melissaenderle/collections/72157616781774401/

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Happy New Year!

No, I don't have my dates mixed up. Today is the Tamil New Year, coinciding with Nirayanam vernal equinox. Generally falling around April 14 of the Gregorian calendar, the Tamil New Year is celebrated by the south Indian state of Tamil Nadu (of which Chennai is the capital) and those of Tamil origin in places such as Sri Lanka, Singapore, and Malaysia.

Primarily a time for family and friends, special food is prepared and gifts of gold, jewelry, or money is given by family elders to the younger ones. The wife gets up early (around 3AM) prepare a special pooja and perhaps also some food. An hour or so later, she then wakes up the other family members and the celebration begins.

This morning when I went for a walk, I expected to see large, beautiful kolams in front of homes/driveways as is customary for special occasions. Considering the extraordinarily early time the wife has to get up this day, perhaps they just didn't get to it yet. One of the local newspapers did fill in a bit, placing white powdered stenciled New Year's celebration greetings in front of every home in my neighborhood.

According to my Chennai friends, the Nirayanam vernal equinox also signals the start of the hot season. I definitely noticed the difference on Saturday night when I stepped off the night plane from Delhi. Hot and humid is now upon us!

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Nano - World's Cheapest Car Launched in India

As the calendar turns to April, the Tata Nano car will go on sale all over India. At 100,000 rupees (less than $2,000), it will be the world’s cheapest car. At this price you get a 10x5x5’ (3.1x1.5 x1.6 m) car whose bodywork is comprised of sheet-metal and plastic. Instead of welding, plastic and adhesive is used. The basic model has no air-conditioning, no air bag, has manual steering, and crank-down windows. Its 624cc two-cylinder engine (in the trunk) enables speeds of up to 43 mph (70 km/h). This almost makes the YUGO look luxurious!

Although a slightly larger model is being offered for European markets, Tata is hoping to attract Indians who currently are using motorcycles. While fitting entire families on a motorcycle may be more crowded, I’m not quite sure how a vehicle held together with adhesive will be that much safer. It will also mean more polluting vehicles on the already crowded, chaotic roads of India. That is something no one is looking forward to.

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Preserver and Sustainer

Amidst the colorful garlands of flowers and pooja items in the chariot was a statue of Lord Vishnu. In Hindu religion, Vishnu is considered the Supreme God. He is considered the preserver and sustainer of life. During the 10-day festivity, this statue was dressed in different elegant clothes on each day. The temple on my street is dedicated to Vishnu.

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Attendees of Vishnu

Sharing the temple chariot with the statue of Lord Vishnu were two priests. They made sure that Vishnu was well taken care for, presenting garlands of jasmine flowers around its shoulders and more flowers at its feet. Other offerings presented by the devotees such as coconut, bananas, and greens were heaped before the statue’s feet. Occasionally the priests would pass a lamp before Vishnu, its flame flickering as the chariot proceeded along the street. Like the chariot pushers, the bare-chested attending priests wore orange cloth tied around their waists.

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The Many Names of Vishnu

In contrast to the front and sides of the temple chariot, the role of women dominated the rear. The women, particularly the grey-haired ones, chanted in a happy sounding but reserved song. Sometimes it sounded like a call-and-response, while other times the chanting was in unison. These women were chanting the many names of Vishnu. With 1,000 names attributed to Lord Vishnu, it could take quite a while to get all of them covered!

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Bombing of Belgrade: Ten Years Later

Today marks the tenth anniversary of the start of NATO's bombing campaign on Serbia (then Yugoslavia). On March 24, 1999, NATO forces began their 11-week attack with the goal of driving Serb forces out of Kosovo. Although sites all around the country were targets, Belgrade was one of the hardest hit. Many of my former co-workers were in Belgrade during this stressful time, facing constant power outages, night skies lit up with bombs & resulting explosions like fireworks, fuel shortages, and never quite sure if the bridge they took to school would be destroyed. One even delivered her first child during the intense bombing and power outtage. At first, many huddled in shelters; as the weeks drew on, some began trying to sleep through it.

Nonetheless, the stress, trauma and scars still remain - both on the residents and buildings. Along some of the main arteries of downtown Belgrade including Knez Milosa, some of these bombed buildings lie much as they were when the fires died out. Eyesores such as these serve as reminders of an unpleasant past, fuel nationalist sentiments, and point out lack of needed funding to remove the remnants. The top photo is the former Interior Ministry. The bottom photo is of a TV station, destroyed while young workers were still in it.

In commemoration of the anniversary, BBC News has posted a short audio slideshow.

Update: My friend Pat has some photos posted on her blog that were taken of the bombings right from her apartment window.

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Pushing the Chariot

On both sides of the wooden chariot were several men helping to move the vehicle along. From a lower vantage point, they reminded me a bit of pallbearers. Over the chanting voices I could hear the sound of a motor or generator, which I presume helped propel the chariot along as well as creating electricity for the spotlight on the statue. In the photo they don’t appear to be exerting much force, as I’m sure they traditionally would have had in olden times when temple chariots had creaky wooden wheels. No doubt it is quite an honor to be able to push the chariot. Note the decorative pooja white marks on the tires & wood and the red dots around the wheel rims.

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Chariot Procession

The chariot containing a statue of Lord Vishnu through the streets had to stop often in order for the two electric wire people to push up the wires and tree branches to make way for the chariot. These breaks were an opportunity for somewhat of a commercial break. Devotees would press their palms together in prayer, sing, bow down, or give to the chariot priests some offerings such as coconut, bananas, or floral garlands. Omnipresent entrepreneurs were also on the scene, selling pooja items for offerings, coffee, necklaces, and of course the balloon guy was there with his colorful wares. Photographers and a videographer also took advantage of the situation. Once the wire or branch obstacle was out of the way, the crowd turned and proceeded down the street, ready for another repeat a short distance away.

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Hold your horses!

As mentioned in yesterday's post, the temple chariot had to stop often in order for branches and telephone/electric wires to be lifted out of the way. A musician signaled for the procession to stop, with the chariot pushers putting on the brakes. Some women would place a pile of white granules right in front of the parked tires. I originally thought that was the coarse sugar candy given to me by one of the spectators, but one of my colleagues told me it was camphor. She explained that camphor is a natural insecticide, and by driving over the pile, the tires would spread the insect controller over the path. Although now more of a tradition, this repellent would have been espeically welcomed in rural areas as the chariot was rolled through the paths between fields. Also note the decorated tires and kolam design on the road.

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The Temple Chariot

This wooden chariot is brought out on special occasions, transporting a statue of the god Lord Vishnu. Carved out of wood, these horses were adorned with brightly colored floral garlands and the fragrant jasmine flowers. Compared to some temple chariots, this one is rather small, as it must be able to fit under the trees and telephone/electric wires of the neighborhood streets. Even so, the chariot had to stop rather often for two men to lift up obstructions with a specially-designed wooden pole.

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Would you like a weiner dog or a poodle?

This elderly man took advantage of the crowd gathered for the Lord Vishnu celebration, hoping to sell a few balloons. Rubbing a balloon to make a peculiar noise, he drew attention to his colorful wares. When sales got a little slow, he would make creatures out of a few balloons, such as the one pictured on the ground. I wonder how many he would need to sell in order to call it a successful day.

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Let the Procession Begin!

The trumpeting from these horn players signaled the start of the procession celebrating Lord Vishnu. Walking along the streets of Gandhi Nagar, these two musicians headed the procession, with other musicians behind them. Drummers, a few nagaswaram (double-reed instrument) players, and a shruti player (drone instrument with bellows) completed the band. These musicians are hired to perform at various temple events and other Hindu celebrations around the city.

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Vishnu Festival Kolams

Every morning and evening women sprinkled water on the driveway entrances to their homes and then proceeded to create kolam designs that were larger and more complex than those made on ordinary days. Multiple kolams adorned many places, spilling out onto the main road. In some places, the women bravely made large kolams in the middle of the road, keeping a watchful eye out for traffic! No doubt it was probably considered auspicious for the procession chariot and devotees to travel over the kolam. In addition to the white rice flour designs, many were filled with colored powder. A few designs were specific to the festival. As part of the festivities, it would be common to visit each other’s homes, admiring the kolams as you entered. It amazes me that such care goes into this traditional art form, full aware of its transient nature. It certainly gave me a chance to have something beautiful to look at when going for a walk!

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Local Temple Lord Vishnu Festival

A 10-day festival dedicated to Lord Vishnu has just ended. During this festive time, my neighborhood was transformed into a place of celebration. Music, parades, large colorful kolams, a swelling of temple visitors, and of course more litter were some items observed. Every morning and night the temple’s statue of Lord Vishnu was paraded around the neighborhood, dressed in different clothing representing some various gods. It is said during this time Vishnu visits the community as the statue is paraded past the homes. It is a time of happiness and community togetherness.

Unlike other festivals, this celebration varies from temple to temple. In many cases it’s a commemoration of some anniversary at the temple; when it was built, when special statues were installed, or when a special high-ranking religious person visited the temple. Such staggering of celebration times enables devotees to visit temples scattered throughout an area. For Indians, the more festivities, the better!

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Marriage Survey in India

BharatMatrimony, an online matrimony portal, recently conducted a survey on “Women and Marriage” in selected Indian cities. The results, considering that 1,058 women between the ages of 20 and 30 were surveyed, reveal a combination of deeply traditional beliefs and modernistic practices.

• 49% prefer arranged marriage
• 59% consider the parents’ decisions the most important factor in a marriage.
• 27% prefer to sacrifice their career or marriage
• 71% pick the age range of 21-24 as the ideal age for marriage
• 75% of the women say they will refer online matrimony to others
• 46% consider this an ideal platform that helps one access profiles on their own time and convenience

I wonder what the survey results would look like if women in towns and villages were surveyed. Likely we would see an even higher percentage favoring arranged marriage, the role of parents, foregoing a career, and the ideal age range being the same or lower. As TV is finally coming into some village homes (a politician promised a TV if you voted for him), the much lower access to the Internet would indicate less familiarity with the concept of online marriage portals and thus its acceptance. I would like to know if there was data gathered specifically for groups such as; those who were university educated outside India, those with advanced degrees, IT and engineering professionals, doctors & lawyers.

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Tamil Nadu Catamarans

These simple flat log boats used in the Tamil Nadu region are known as kattumarams. The derivative word for catamarans, a form of these boats were used by the ancient Tamil Chola Dynasty to invade Southeast Asian countries such as Malaysia, Burma, and Indonesia. The small catamarans pictured here are primarily used by fishermen.

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Serve it on Ice

Boats that go out to sea for several days or a week need ice in order to keep their valuable large catch fresh. This photo shows large blocks of ice bicycled right up to the docked boats. In Chennai's heat, the blocks must quickly be unloaded and broken up by hand with a chisel. The smaller chunks are then placed in the boat's storage area.

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Roll Out the Swordfish

These swordfish were just hauled out of the bottom part of a fishing boat in Chennai. Now out of the chilled area, these men must move the fish out quickly before they spoil. Considering the size (14.5 feet or 4.5 m) and weight (1,190 lbs or 540 kg) that swordfish can get, it's quite something to see men pull a cart loaded with several of these fish. Although fish is commonly served, it is unlikely that these swordfish would end up on the fisherman's plate. Rather, such fish are mostly exported to western countries.

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At the banks

No, we're not talking about those beleaguered institutions, but the ones next to a body of water. This scene was taken at a fishing village in Chennai. I couldn't get close enough to see what was going on by the shore, but a number of people carrying small fish in those baskets walked past me. I loved the "sea" of colors and intense liveliness of the scene, each person with a role.


The scene reminded me of the one I witnessed along the shores of the Niger River in Mopti, Mali (West Africa). While fish was also an important item harvested from the waters, the salt slabs north of Timbuktu were what made the Mopti an important port town.

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Don't Forget to Floss

At a fishing village in Chennai our fourth graders received so many white flashy smiles. Walking past one small fishing boat with its string of small colorful appliances, I now knew why.

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Laid out to Dry

I spotted this playing card amidst a pile of drying fish. I did see the men inside the shelter playing cards, as their fish nets repair jobs had already been completed for the day. This was a sizeable distance away though. Was this pile of fish bet on and claimed by the winner?

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Gravestones for Export

On Friday the fourth grade classes toured the GEMS granite company as part of its study on the economy of the Tamil Nadu state. This Chennai-based company has over 150 different quarries with unique granite colors throughout India, as well as importing some other types from a few countries. Using modern equipment, the massive blocks are transformed into monuments, memorials & mausoleums for export. GEM also produces modular tiles, vanity and counter tops, tabletops, sculptures, and structural building slabs out of their high-quality granite.

Walking through the large buildings with their massive, noisy machines, a row of Christian gravestone markers were ready for export. In a Hindu-dominated country where it’s common practice to cremate the dead, it was a bit strange seeing so many gravestones, their shiny sides blank and ready for engraving of the deceased’s names when it reaches the destination. In fact, over 80% of the world’s gravestones being produced in Asia. Europe, the US, and Japan were some of the biggest customers of Indian granite gravestones. However, in recent years, the Chinese market has begun to undercut Indian-based companies, taking granite from India (as well as some quarried in China) and using their own machines to produce cheaper gravestones. Currently Indian-based granite companies still seem to have the edge due to high quality and the large variety of beautiful granite types present in the subcontinent.

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Old-fashioned Chinatown store

This old-fashioned shop in the Chinatown district of Bangkok is a far cry from the chic, modern malls just a Sky Train away. Walk along the streets of Chinatown and you will find small, simple shops such as this, selling rescued motor or electronic parts, Chinese food, lanterns, religious objects, and pharmaceuticals. Devoid of fancy displays and lighting, I find such stores much more personable, even with their dusty corners and clutter.

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Cabbages, Anyone?

Judging from the number and size of these baskets in Bangkok's Chinatown, I think it's fairly safe to say that the people like their cabbage. Sauerkraut, anyone?

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The Grand Palace, Bangkok

Located on the same grounds as the Wat Phra Kaew is the Grand Palace. Its origins date back to the time when King Rama I decided to move the kingdom across the Chao Phraya River and was complete in 1785. The buildings that comprise the Grand Palace include a mixture of more classical Thai architecture, as well as a hall inspired by the Italian Renaissance. Personally I found the European architectural buildings to seem a bit out of place, amidst the otherwise harmonious Thai structures, with their abundance of color and upward-pointing details.

The grounds around well-preserved buildings was immaculate. Groundskeepers practiced their topiary skills, transforming bushes into elephants and other animals.

Visitors were allowed inside some of the buildings. Inside one was an elevated throne used during the coronation ceremony. The walls in one building were decorated with what looked like wallpaper. It wasn't until I looked up close that I realized that these were all paintings - such intricate work! Unfortunately, photos were not allowed inside the buildings.

Although the king does not live in the palace, the Grand Palace is still used for special ceremonies such as coronations, funerals, marriages, and state banquets.

See more photos of the Grand Palace on my Flickr page.

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Happy Monday, Thailand!

If when walking around Bangkok on a Monday and you happen to see an unusual number of people wearing yellow, know that it's no coincidence. A combination of superstition and cosmology, the Thais believe that each day of the week has a special color assigned to it. On Monday yellow is worn in recognition of the fact that the king was born on a Monday. Polo shirts with the king's emblem is a common sight on this day. Some employers actually require their employees to wear yellow on Mondays out of respect for the king. Also related to the king is Tuesday's color pink. It's the color that he wore when leaving the hospital, the symbolic color for his birth year, and wearing pink on this day is a way of wishing the King long life. Green, the color for environmentalism, is recognized on Wednesday. Orange is the color for Thursday, light blue for Friday (the queen's birthday), purple for Saturday and red for Sunday.

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