Jaisalmer - arrival, walk up to fort

After about 17 hours, our train finally arrives in the town of Jaisalmer, located near the Pakistan border. Refreshed by a much-needed shower, we enjoyed a meal on the rooftop of our hotel, our favorite eating spot of the entire trip. Here we had an excellent view of the old city and the dominating fort perched above the 80 m-high Trikuta (Three-Peaked) Hill. Constructed in yellow sandstone dominating the entire old city, we would see its colors glow in the late afternoon sun, contrast with the clear blue sky, or become nearly obscured by sands blowing from the Thar Desert.

As I sipped my fresh mango lassi, I surveyed the view. The flat tops of the buildings now sported black water tanks, laundry, hotel restaurants, and the occasional satellite dish. The narrow streets were nearly invisible in the sea of sandstone buildings sloping up towards the fort. The sound of drums could be heard, emanating from a Hindu temple just outside the fort. The putter of a motorcycle or auto rickshaw was occasionally heard but never became pervasive. An addition to building next to us now blocked the view to a well-known haveli, a majestic merchant’s house from Jaisalmer’s glorious past. From the 16th to 18th century, this town was a strategic position on the camel-train routes between India and Central Asia, bring great wealth. As shipping trade began to dominate and Mumbai emerged, Jaisalmer began to decline. Today it relies mostly on tourism which is subject to declines when tensions flare along the Pakistan border.

With my trusty camera around my neck, I began my ascent up the narrow streets towards the fort. To either side of this golden jungle were small shops selling silver jewelry, spices, textiles, embroidered leather jooti slippers, snacks and water. Through an open door I saw a man’s face lathered up, ready to be shaved by the barber. In front of the first fort gate several women wearing a matching kanchi (long, loose blouse), matching ghagra (skirt), complementing odhni, and assortment of bangles and tribal jewelry approached me, asking if I wanted to purchase some anklets. I could see that they were of very cheap quality, but the photos I took made the small rupee purchase well worth it.

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