Monday, November 23, 2009

Gingee Fort - Kalyana Mahal

After a late breakfast meal of traditional South India eats such as idly, dosa, and sambhar, we arrived at Gingee Fort by mid-morning. The landscape had changed from nearly all flat land to one punctuated by large hills of rocks. Some looked like collections of large rocks piled by giants, interspersed throughout the otherwise flat land. Green paddy fields dominated the rural landscape, nearly glowing with the recent monsoon rains.

It was my second time visiting this fortress complex – one of the few remaining forts in the state of Tamil Nadu known mostly for its temples. Last time we had visited the Krishna temple and Durbar Hall on Krishnagiri Hill. Now our goal was to climb the second of three hill citadels – Rajagiri Hill. Whereas Krishnagiri Hill had a gentler slope, the top portion of Rajagiri Hill appeared to suddenly erupt vertically from its base.

Several groups of children were also visiting the fortress, clad in their school uniforms. Some of the older boys enjoyed swinging from the hanging roots of the immense banyan tree, completely trusting that the vines would sustain their weight.


Located at the foot of the Rajagiri hill amongst green-landscaped grounds is the Kalyana Mahal and related buildings, constructed between the 15th and 16th centuries. A square hall built for the ladies of the court, it has a white pavilion with seven stories capped with a pyramidal roof.  Also present were rows of enclosure for the royal staff, the King’s audience hall and private chambers for holding meetings, a palace complex, and a massive tank named Elephant’s Tank. Traces of natural springs and tanks that supplied the citadel with an abundant supply of water were still evident. Also on the grounds were several granaries and the 17th century Venkataramana Temple complex.

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