Melissa Enderle's travelblog on her travels to Mali, Tunisia, Serbia, Eastern Europe, India, South Korea, China, and other places around the world.
Sunday, November 04, 2007
Yellow Leaves and Soggy Skies
Although fall in Belgrade doesn't reveal such a vibrant array of colors as one might find in northern Wisconsin or Vermont, it still is something that attracts me as an artist. The brightest color here is yellow, and it seems to glow against the blue skies - that is, when there is a blue sky. Since October started, disproportionate number of days have been rainy or at least dreary and overcast.
I had been eying the yellow leaves and multi-hued leaves on vines for the past week and hoped I could take some photos. In the early afternoon, the overcast suddenly made way to tiny patches of blue sky - at least for a few minutes. Grabbing my camera bag, I headed out the door. The multitude of old Yugos and Lada cars parked on the sidewalk (yup, that's the place where people park) were blanketed with yellow and brown leaves. An old lady, hunched over with osteoporosis, was dutifully sweeping all the leaves off the road in front of her apartment building. I can imagine how clean her apartment must be!
Kalemegdan - Ancient Fortress and Park
I exited the tram in front of Kalemegdan, the old fortress and park right in the old city. Despite the overcast skies, the multitude of yellow trees made for some beautiful photos, both as a landscape shot and extreme close-ups. The neutral sky actually softened the scene, providing for some interesting effects.
Throughout the park, people were seen strolling around, reading the newspaper, or enjoying one last ice cream from the vendor. Other vendors were selling souvenirs such as shajkaca hats, opanci shoes, and embroidery. Guitar music filled the air around a historic gate.
Knowing that the vine leaves seemed to produce the most vibrant colors, I headed towards the Ruzica church, located deep into the park and overlooking the Danube River. The metal relief image of Madonna and Child was framed by hues of orange, red, and green leaves. Along the other side of this vine-covered church were the two life-sized sculptures of Serbian soldiers. The background was ablaze in orange. Off to one side, the textured stone wall, mottled warm hued leaves and exposed vines produced some pleasing compositions.
Downtown
Although the pedestrian street was lively, it seemed a bit less crowded. Indeed, some of the outdoor cafe and restaurant areas were gone for the season. Soon it will only be a choice between smoky indoor places and smokier indoor places. A little boy giggled as he tried to catch the bubbles blown by the man with the motorized bubble blower. Another man was trying to sell furry figures that moved about and made noise. Several adults were huddled around a a box of pirated software and movies. Near one of the city's McDonalds' (one of the only non-smoking restaurants in Belgrade) I met a friend. A craft show was going on now, so we had to visit it. I was especially impressed with the paintings created with pressed flowers and other natural materials. Even when looking at a close distance, it was hard to believe that these beautifully executed compositions were not photos. Unfortunately they were beyond my budget. Instead I purchased a few small items, including two MUCH cheaper, pressed flower/natural material pieces. I gave the man the money I thought I owed him, complimented him, and walked away. Already several booths away, the man caught up to me, explaining that my pieces were a bit smaller and gave me some money back. What honesty!
After sufficiently touring the show, we headed to a newly opened cafe and split a piece of fruit-covered cheesecake - only half the sin! Already turning dark (daylight savings time started already last week), I said goodbye and waited for the bus.
The next day it rained, with intermittent bouts of mist. Leaves fluttered to the ground in large numbers, coaxed on by the winds and rain. A single horse could be spotted out on the hippodrome, whose tracks consisted of mud and standing rainwater. It was a lousy day out - perfect for getting some work done.
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2 comments:
Greetins from Denmark!
Greetings from Belgrade! How did you come across my blog?
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