With the myriad of festivals in India, chances were good that we would happen upon a festival while in Rajasthan. As luck would have it, we were in Jaisalmer during Gangaur, one of Rajasthan’s most important festival. Primarily a Hindu festival for women, Gangaur celebrates the love between Gan (Shiva) and his consort Gauri (Parvati). The figure of Parvati represents perfection in married life, so both married and unmarried women join in the celebrations. An eighteen-day festival, we were privy to the last days.
A large crowd had already assembled, composing of Jaisalmer residents, women from nearby villages, tourists, musicians, and camel herders. In the courtyard area in front of the palace were the musicians; drummers, a small boy banging a metal tambourine-like instrument, Rawanhatha, and Surpeti (a drone instrument). Later some bagpipers dressed in crisp military-like band uniforms performed. Off to another side were several brightly decorated camels and their drivers. Young women, girls, and official-looking men entered the
palace. People were crawling up everywhere to get a view. Young boys pushed their way to the front of the crowd, only to be scolded by security officials who momentarily succeeded in moving them back. A brand-new SUV pulled up in front of the palace, with the maharaja promptly getting out and up into the palace.A short time later, the procession began. Young girls dressed in bright colors and decked giddily out with jewelry walked down the stairs, clutching their metal pots with a coconut on top. The maharaja dressed in a rainbow turban and clutching a sheathed spear later emerged, mounting a regal horse. Several men carried a statue of Gauri in an embroidered golden dress, Jaipur jewelry, and a garland of flowers. Hoping to get some great photos of the procession, I dashed ahead, sometimes following a reporter. Lining both sides of the procession were large crowds of people. Movement other than forwards was nearly impossible; one had to “go with the flow.” Pausing only momentarily to take photos, I managed to get some shots before the crowd threatened to swallow me. The procession went past our hotel and right down to Gadi Sagar, a beautiful tank/lake south of the city walls. Lining the steps of the tank was a kaleidoscope of colorful women eager for a view of the festivities. The golden arched
structures behind them glowed in the late afternoon light. Young women carried small figures of Gan and Gauri. Soon the golden statue of Gauri emerged through the gates. I had expected it to be dunked in the water, but instead a pooja was performed at the water’s edge, the statue turned a few times, and then carried away. Some girls placed bundles of grass into the water. Others gave their dolls a drink. With the light rapidly fading, I located my friends and we headed back to our hotel, recalling the scenes we had just witnessed.
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