The Five Panch Ratha Temples of Mahabalipuram

Located in a sandy area are the ratha temples. Derived from the word chariots, the rathas were processional chariots – vehicles for the gods. They were named after the five Pandava brothers, heroes of the epic Mahabharata and queen Draupadi. Four out of the five rathas were carved out of a single rock, with the last smaller one scooped out of a rock. Each was dedicated to a god or goddess. Like many of the sculptures in Mahabalipuram, these pieces were unfinished. Chisel marks were visible particularly in the wide flat areas. Were these also unfinished or simply a texture the workers decided to leave? The Bhima Ratha and Dharmaraja Ratha buildings were particularly impressive, with imposing multi-storeyed layers, a barrel-vaulted or octagonal domed roof, and sculpted panels. A large sculpture of an elephant, standing lion, and unfinished Nandi (bull) also adorns the grounds. These temples were built from around 630-670 AD. One of the two main sites that required showing an admissions ticket, there were quite a number of people there, both Indian and foreigners. Trying to get a photo shot without people was extremely difficult, so I took advantage and used them to provide a sense of scale against these ancient sculptures.

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Mahabalipuram – City of Carved Stone (part 1)

On Sunday three teachers and I boarded a local bus (16 rupees - $0.34) headed southward to the city of Mahabalipuram, a pleasant 58 km (36 miles) from Chennai. Like most local busses, this one had natural air conditioning coming through its windows devoid of glass. Plugging in a pair of headphones and listening to music helped diminish the blaring sound of the bus horn, sounded frequently as the bus made its way down the East Coast Road. A bit more than an hour later, we arrived and were greeted by a auto rickshaw driver who offered to take us to all the sights, now declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Located on the Bay of Bengal on a long beach, the city of Mahabalipuram was once a major port-city, built by the Pallava king. During the rule of the Pallavas, innovative styles of architecture and art emerged, with the area of Mahabalipuram showcasing these new styles including the style known as Dravida. Most of the famous rock-cut architecture dates back to the 5th – 9th centuries.

Wandering around the rock-hewn temples and other structures (a total of 40 architectural pieces), one couldn’t help but marvel at how these exquisite carvings and reliefs were created. Some of the temples were carved out of caves, whose columns flanked by lion-like figures at the base gleamed in the bright daylight and bas-relief stories of Hindu gods adorned the shadowed walls. Other temples, such as the Ratha temples were carved out of a single rock. Such carvings (including the multi-storey temples) were executed from top to the bottom, thus enabling the workers to execute their artistry without damaging things below. Therefore, unfinished elements tended to be at the bottom areas.

Much of Mahabalipuram’s rock sculptures remain a mystery. Even the purpose of the structures is uncertain, with many believing that they were not constructed for worship. Equally puzzling is why work was abandoned before completion.

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Technology in India

Source: http://www.flickr.com/photos/25735051@N00/339450589

While reading an Indian photography magazine this evening, I came across some interesting technology statistics. They show how widespread technology is - in some aspects - while how deep the "digital divide" is in other aspects.

Mobile Phones:

• The number of mobile users in India will increase from 200 million to 400 million by 2010.
• The number of cell phones increases by 9.22 million each month (July 2008)
  
• Only 38.76 landlines are in place (July 2008)
  

Computers

• 6.5 million computers shipped in 2007 - a 20% annual growth
• 1.8 million laptop purchases in 2007, vs. only .98 million in 2006

Internet

• Growth in number of users from 2000 to 2007: 660%
• 40% growth (56 million in September 2007 up from 40 million in 2006) in the number of internet users
• However, this represents only 3.7% of the total population of India
• 4.57 million broadband users (June 2008)
  

IT Industry in India

• Exported $31 billion in software/services in 2006-2007 - a growth rate of 32.6%
• In the last 10 years, IT revenues grew tenfold, from $4.8 billion in 1997 to $47.8 billion currently.
• Projections for IT industry revenues for 2010 are anticipated at $60 billion.
  

Data source: Smart Photography, September 2008, p. 30-31,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Communications_in_India

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Mylapore temple of Kapaleeshwarar

Last Saturday I finally had the chance to go and visit the great temple in Mylapore known as Kapaleeshwarar. Riding on the back of my guide’s motorscooter, we weaved through the narrow busy roads to the temple. Even in the late afternoon, this area was still abuzz, filled with vendors, bazaars, and temple visitors. The tall gopuram (temple tower) was quite impressive, full of colorful figures. To get the entire 40 foot (12 m) structure in my camera, I had to step back a bit. Then it was fun zooming in at all the details, each frame just as interesting. Dropping off our sandals, with the shoe guy, we entered the large door, stepping up and over the large steps at each end of the entrance.

The area’s original name, Mayilapura, or the “Town of Peacocks” recalls a legend between Shiva’s wife Parvati who assumed the form of a peahen. In some places I read, Shiva turned Parvati into the peahen because she was admiring a peacock dancing instead of listening to him, while others seem to say that Parvati did it to worship Shiva. The story is depicted throughout the temple including the gopuram.

The age of the current Kapaleeshwarar temple is in dispute. Some say it was built after the original (located near where San Thomés Basilica now is) was destroyed by the Portuguese in the 16th century. Others believe that the structure dates back to the 7th century, while still others believe that this is the original temple once located on the beach, but that the sea has receded that much.

Once inside the courtyard, , we saw several shrines dedicated to Ganesha, Muruga, and several other gods. One shrine had an image of a peahen, recalling the legend behind the place. Knowing that we didn’t have a lot of time and the likelihood that non-Hindus would be allowed in the main shrine areas anyway, I took a few more photos and walked out the smaller gopuram towards the temple tank. Looking over the tank, I spotted a small temple in the middle of the water, now silhouetted by the setting sun. I’ll have to come back and retake some photos from the opposite end of the tank, with the warm rays glowing on the tank and temple. Just outside the gate were some flowers, coconuts candles, and other items to give to the gods, bathed in the warm afternoon sun.

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Under Construction

In a growing city like Chennai, construction and destruction is everywhere. My neighborhood is no exception. Smaller, older homes are being torn down, making way for apartment buildings. To shield off the construction zone, walls are woven from palm fronds.

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Morning Snack

After sleeping on the cricket playing field of the neighborhood sports club, this cow decided to enjoy a breakfast of plastic, old food, and other rubbish. Crows and the cyclist also seem to enjoy the tranquil morning - before the crowds and heat takes over.

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Chalk - not just for kids

The other week, when walking down to the Virgin Mary church festival in Besant Nagar, I came across this man taking advantage of the auto-free roads (a marathon was going on in the area) to express his faith through a chalk drawing. While most residents of Chennai are Hindu, there is a growing population of Christians.

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Fertility Tree

While visiting a small temple complex called Arupadai in the Chennai neighborhood of Besant Nagar, I came across a tree with curious items hanging from it. Couples wanting a baby would tie a cloth piece to this tree and say a few prayers to the god of fertility.

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Happy Birthday, Ganesh!

Roadside Curiosities
Yesterday when coming home from school, I noticed some colorful paper decorations and other curious items being sold along the road. Dropping off my school bag and collecting my camera, I proceeded to go to a busier corner in my neighborhood to check what it was all about. Spotting my camera, one buyer explained that people were preparing for Ganesh’s birthday - Ganesha Chaturth, the day that the god Ganesh came to earth. An easily recognizable god because of his elephant head, Ganesh is known as the supreme god of wisdom, prosperity and good fortune. This Hindu woman was buying a clay figure of Ganesh (with red plastic eyes) to take home for the celebration. Other vendors around her were selling garlands of various flowers, hanging strands of woven palm fronds, fruits, and the colorful “umbrellas” I had seen. These umbrellas would then be placed along the backside of the clay figure. The temple right next to the vendors was also being decorated with the hanging palm fronds. Various sizes of colorful Ganesh figures were also for sale.

Photo Opportunity
After taking some photos (including several photos of kids also selling items), I returned back to my apartment at the same time as my Indian neighbor. She explained that on the 11th day, the statues would be taken to the river (or sea) and immersed, representing the cycle of creation and dissolution in Nature. When asking about the umbrellas, she explained that it was a substitute for Ganesh’s favorite place of shade – the banyan tree.

Legend of Ganesh
Last night I watched on cable TV an animated quick story of Ganesh. According to legend, Shiva (Hindu god of resolution) was away at war. His wife Pavarti was left at home by herself. Wanting to take a bath and have someone guard the door, she fashioned Ganesha out of sandalwood (that she used for her bath) and brought him to life. Following her orders to guard the door and not let anyone in, Ganesh obeyed even when Shiva returned. Not knowing who the boy was, Shiva decapitated him. Seeing Pavarti’s rage, Shiva gave the order to his helpers to bring back the head of the first living being with its head facing north –which was an elephant. Shiva then placed the head onto Ganesh’s body and brought him back to life – an act very pleasing to Pavarti.

Treats for Ganesha Chaturth
This evening (many people had off today, including local schools) my neighbor came by to give me some foods she prepared for the special day. My favorites were the modakas, a sweet dish made from chana dal (chickpeas), rice flour and jaggery (brown sugar). Her version of this steamed delectable was formed into a pinched semi-circle, while others choose to form it into a ball. A yummy treat I’d happily trade for a few chocolate chip cookies!

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Carnatic Vocal Concert - M. .Balamuralikrishna

On Friday night I attended a music concert by famous Indian Carnatic vocalist M. Balamuralikrishna. Although it took an hour and a half to get there due to horrible traffic conditions, the concert was a treat. This 78-year old vocalist didn’t just sing, he used his voice as an instrument. The incredible range of pitches and sounds showed just how supple this man’s voice still was. My co-worker, a native of Kerala, India, was only able to understand bits and pieces, as many of the songs were in Tegelu.

Some of the songs were his own compositions, still adhering to the Carnatic style but pushing the boundaries. Some songs were about love and others about the Hindu gods. A violin played in a downward position, mridangam (type of south Indian drum played on both sides), and a male vocalist accompanied this legend. A drone-like sound was present throughout the concert.

Played in an improvisational style with no music, the accompanists had to listen very closely to blend with the main melody. Although tired and relaxed from the soothing music, I fought to stay awake to hear the beautiful vocalizations and experience the lively solos by the mridangam player.

With already much quieter streets, the ride back to our neighborhood was only 15 minutes. Still soothed by the melodies, I was ready to go to bed.

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Elliot’s Beach, Besant Nagar

Blessed with a long coastline, one of Chennai’s beaches is known as Elliot’s Beach, located in the neighborhood of Besant Nagar. Since I was already in Besant Nagar for the Velankanni church festival, I went to the beach there, meeting up with a colleague who lived nearby. Approaching the beach through a narrow path, it appeared as though the ground-covering of green plants with pink flowers went right up to the sea.
Looking in the distance, only one fishing boat could be spotted. To the distant right was a fishing village, its boats lined up on the beach. To our left, some boys, dressed only in their underwear, played in the strong currents, cooled down from the heat of the day. We also enjoyed the refreshing feel of the water running over our feet, with a surge quickly getting the bottoms of our capris wet. Further up the sandy shore people ventured into the water, the women in their saris.
Further up the beach, some boys and young men played cricket, the ubiquitous sport of India. Vendor stalls were quite on the Sunday morning. Right across the street from a line of shops and cafés were some simple homes woven from palm fronds. As with other parts of Chennai, the contrast between the classes in the same neighborhood was quite distinct.
Had this beach been in other parts of the world (and with cleaner water), I can only imagine how developed and commercialized it would be. For now, Elliot’s Beach remains a more simple recreational spot.

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Velankaani Catholic Festival

This week the Catholics of Tamil Nadu (the state where Chennai is in) are celebrating the Velankanni Festival. On Friday night a statue of Mary and Jesus was paraded around the area of the church in Chennai.

Legend Behind the Festival
According to legend, Mary (the mother of Jesus) rescues a few Portuguese merchant sailors during a violent storm. Upon reaching the shore of Velankanni, local fishermen took the sailors to the thatched chapel. Grateful and eager to pay tribute to Mary, the sailors built a small but permanent chapel on their return trip. Subsequent returns resulted in improving the chapel and an initiation of the feast.

Modern Festival
This annual festival lasts for nine days and draws over 1,500,000 pilgrims – more than any other sacred shrine in India. Both Christians and non-Christians alike visit the church, with some looking forward to miraculous cures. Some fashion candles in the shape of the diseased part of their body in hopes of a cure.

The Valankanni Church in Chennai is smaller and less elaborate, but still draws many visitors, particularly during the festival week. When I was there today, a large Mass was held outdoors, with services alternating between Tamil and English. On the way into church, some lit candles and a couple of women dressed a statue of Mary in a sari. In the room next to the worship area, a young woman laid a garland of flowers normally used in temples onto the tomb of a beloved priest. At the front of the worship area people crossed themselves or kissed the glass containing a statue of the Virgin Mary and Jesus. Strands of jasmine flowers hung down around the Caucasian sculptures.

Outside the church a lady stamped the hand of a child using the traditional stamps used to create the vegetable dye prints on cloth. On the road leading up to the church, a young man dew a crucifix in chalk along the parking spot edge of the road, something likely possible due to the marathon which closed down the road to vehicles.

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Up Tiruvannamali's Arunachala Hill, Waiting at the Pumps

After a quick snack, some of the group ascended up Arunachala Hill (the “Red Mountain”) to see the caves where Sri Rama Maharishi, a 21st century saint, spent 23 years in meditation. Along the way we stopped to enjoy the view of the city below, the main temple still looking quite large. Although less humid, the steep climb marked only by small white arrows was still rather difficult. Every so often I had to stop to drink and take a moment’s rest. Happy that I made it to the top cave, I opted not to go up to the “pond” at the top – even though it was only 7 minutes up according to the local person. The two colleagues that did go up said it was disappointing and they definitely didn’t drink from it as our guide suggested. Carefully descending the sheer rocks, we were finally down to the bottom. A bit overcome with the heat and exercise-induced exhaustion, I was glad I was close to the van.

Along the way back to Chennai, our van driver informed us that he didn’t have enough diesel fuel to get us back. He checked at a few gas stations, but they either had no diesel or the lines were so long that it would have taken at least an hour wait. He even called for another van to pick us up in case ours ran out of fuel. Luckily we found one on the other side of the highway. Making a U-turn, we joined the line but somehow wedged our way near the front. After about a 20 minute wait, we were back on the road. Nearly 5 hours later, we were back in Chennai, our trip now completed.

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Tiruvannamali - Arunachaleshvara Temple

Arunachaleshvara Temple
The next morning we packed up our items in the vans and headed into town to visit the most important structure of Tiruvannamali. It is one of five elemental shrines of Shiva which has a gold-encased linga, representing fire. Shiva is believed to have appeared at this town of pilgrimage as a column of fire. Approaching the entrance of the temple gate, we were told we had to drop off our shoes at a nearby stand. After the man at the stand carefully bundled our sandals together with rope, we cautiously walked over the road and back into line. Once inside, I admired the sheer size of the temple structure, covering a vast area of 25 acres (10 hectares). In the large courtyard areas, many people were already gathering. Perhaps some would join the pilgrimage 8.7mi (14 km) walk, barefooted around the red Annachala Hill the following night in the light of the full moon.

Like other South Indian temples I’d seen, this temple’s pyramidal spire was encrusted with figurative and decorative details. The two largest spires were a light monochromatic light gray stone, much different than the multi-colored spires I’d seen in Chennai. The Raja Gopuram (pyramidal gateway to a temple) is the second tallest tower in South India, reaching 217 feet (66 m) in the sky with 11 storeys. Built in the early 1500’s, the tower is in excellent condition. Other parts of the temple date back to the 11th century. Monkeys played amongst the tower’s relief sculptures. One had a wreath of red flowers around its neck.

After visiting some smaller structures, I then entered a thousand-pillared hall. Here an elephant was there with his master. Passing by the opportunity to be blessed by the elephant (with payment), I took a picture and moved onwards. As people approached the exit of the hall, they rang a rather large bell, its sound clanging every few seconds. Small shallow ceramic bowls with clarified butter burned on the temple floor. As I neared the inner shrines, I was told that photography was not allowed in this area. Following the crowd, I entered the right side past a large gold object – perhaps the linga I had read about. I gave the requested 50 rupees for entrance. Short barred fences snaked the many visitors through the area. In different niches and areas of this dark room were altars with deities in them. Others were more simplistic in shape. Many had flowers or porridge like mixture on them. Although this right line still was rather slow, it went a lot faster than the left side. I later learned from a teacher who took that line that the left side was the non-paying lane – so I was in the “express” lane!

Back in the courtyard area, pilgrims now were stopping to have a snack under the shade of the trees. Others were offering prayers or flowers at one of the many small altars, including one dedicated to the Nandi bull. Taking photos of the different buildings, I spotted the large Shivaganga Tank but decided not to take photos as people were bathing in it.

Ready to leave, we proceeded to go back to the gate where we entered. We then found out that we had to exit through a different gate farther away. Walking slowly on the road with our bare feet, we finally made it to the shoe stand.

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Bus Ride into Tiruvannamali, Cattle Truck Out

Our vans took us to our final destination of Tiruvannamali, one of the most sacred cities in Tamil Nadu. On our way to our hotel, we saw the towering pyramids of the main temple complex. After a refreshing drink at the hotel, three of us began walking back into town. Realizing that we didn’t have a whole lot of time before we needed to get back for supper, we pondered about faster transportation methods. Seeing the local bus pulling up just ahead, we quickly jumped aboard, happy that it wasn’t full and the cost was only 6 rupees (14 cents). The open bus with its stiff board seats wasn’t a luxury, but it definitely was cheap and convenient.

Walking through the town, I felt the hum of activity around the many shops and in the streets, but it wasn’t nearly as crowded as in Chennai. The slightly slower pace was welcomed. Along the way, people asked if we could take their picture. Music projected from some of the town’s over 100 temples. Small Indian flags fluttered, above the streets, celebrating Independence Day. Along the slightly more pedestrian streets a number of people carried goods on their heads. Some shops sold religious (Hindu) souvenirs and items. Other shops had large bags of spices and hot peppers for sale. Just commenting about how the more pleasurable scents, we suddenly came across some streets with open sewers. Near the temple entrance a grey-bearded religious person clothed in orange cloth approached us and gave us some “advice.” While waiting for a bus, we noticed some people getting into the fenced back of a truck. After asking the driver if he was going past our hotel, we climbed in. When the money collector asked for an absurd amount (80 rupees - $1.84) for the three of us, one elderly man stepped up and said that no, it was only 3 rupees (7 cents) per person. A slight curiosity to have two redheads and one blond females on the back of the truck, we had a nice but short conversation with the people aboard.

At the driveway entrance to our hotel, they bid us farewell. We even had some time to have a drink on one of the hotel’s several balconies, also enjoying the breezes (not common in Chennai), slightly less humid conditions, and sunset. That evening we had a pleasurable meal at a nearby resort hotel.

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Gingee Fort - Krishna and Rangantha Temples

From the arched openings of Durbar Hall, I could see the spire of Rangantha Temple. The tiles on the roof had now faded, blending in with the surroundings. I liked how the angular flat roof with its series of squares framed the inner courtyard with its more organic temple spire. In the distance I could see one of the other fortress hills.

Krishna Temple
Nearby was the Krishna Temple with its pyramidal spire. Although some of the gods and other carved figures were in bad condition, I enjoyed looking at the profusion of details contained on this spire with its curved top. I could feel one of the carved dancers jutting her hips in a dance, the gold disc decorations pulsating with movement. Within the temple area were two small stone structures that looked like enclosed altars. Nearby were some large granaries, now very dark and empty.

Banyan Tree Monkeys

Back at the base of the hill, we waited for the rest of our school colleagues to & R. Monkeys played at the roots of the banyan tree while a few baby monkeys were perched in the tree’s crook. Some of us went up one of the other hills a short way, but had to return as it was time to go. In the middle of the lush fields and surrounded by trees, I could see what looked like a small mosque and a hall. Not having enough time to explore the expansive fort, I may have to come back again to see the famed Venkataramana Temple.

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At Gingee Fort, Tamil Nadu, India - Background, Durbar Hall

Gingee Fort - History
About 4 hours and 100 miles (160 km) later, we reached Gingee (pronounced Senjee) Fort, one of the few remaining forts in the state of Tamil Nadu. Dramatically perched on the top of three jutting hills were three citadels. One could immediately see the 65 ft (20 m) thick stone walls surrounding the fort in a triangular-shaped area 7km2( (4.35 mi2). At its height Gingee was rated as the “most impregnable fortress of India,” earning it the nickname “Troy of the East” by the imperialist British. Although the region’s historical importance dates back to before 600AD with some cave temples, what we see today dates back to the end of the 14th century when the Nayyakka rulers established Gingee as their capital. Their strong fort walls, towers, temples, shrines, granaries, and tanks were built from granite.


Up the Granite Stairs
As I began to ascend the formidable-looking number of granite stairs on Krishnagiri Hill, I noticed a few monkeys on some rocks, appearing to watch guard over the great expanse. Near the top were some fortifications, including walls with arrow slits, portals, and lookout areas. Because the buildings were perched on different levels of the stony hill, it took a while to find out the best way to get to each and explore the structures. Some people chose to take the safer more worn paths, while others simply scaled up the steep rock.

Durbar Hall
One of the most prominent buildings on Krishnagiri Hill is Durbar Hall. Its small-domed top and colonnaded balconies were seen from quite a distance. I had to wait to get inside the hall, as a professional photographer was busy taking photos inside and through the windows. Once inside, I admired the ribbed arches, fanning gracefully to the ceiling. The slightly pointed window openings were multi-leveled, giving the hall a great deal of light. From the balconies one had a great view of the region. Through another entry below was a stage-like area with carvings of elephants and a series of flat-sided columns with reliefs of deities and decorative forms on them.

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Trip to Gingee Fort, part 1

As last Friday was Indpendence Day here in India, we had off of school. One of the veteran teachers organized a 2-day trip south of Chennai to Gingee Fort and the town of Tiruvannamalai to see its sacred temples.
This is the first of several blog entries on the trip. Today I will focus on the trip down south and reflect on what I saw from my van window.


After what seemed like a long time, we were finally out of the mega city of Chennai. Now, thatched huts were intermixed with more modern ones made out of concrete. Tropical trees contrasted with dry land. Scattered throughout the flat fields were colorfully clad women, bent over to carry out fieldwork. Occasionally I spotted some smaller tractors, including the recognizable colors and logo of John Deere. Combines were busy harvesting, adding to the quiet bustle. Boundaries of the small fields were mounded up, likely to accommodate rainfall. Sharing the road with motorized traffic were cows pulling loads of straw, sporting differently colored horns adorned with decorative tips.

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