Seoul 2013 Lotus Lantern Festival

As a prelude to the birthday celebrations of Buddha, the Cheonggycheon stream in Seoul has once again been transformed into a lantern wonderland. Made from silk, traditional hanji paper, and other materials, the lanterns could better be described as glowing, delicate sculptures. In early November, a more contemporary Lantern festival took place in the same location. Wedding scenes, horsemen, gates of Seoul, children from around the world, and Korean cartoon characters were amongst some of the many lanterns in fall. On the way home from Bible Study, we took a quick walk through part of the displays. Although I only had my cell phone camera with me, these photos should give you a bit of an idea of what beautiful lanterns were displayed. At the Lotus Lantern Festival, we saw dragons emerging from a drum, lotuses and hands in the namaste pose, cranes, and mythical-looking Buddhist scenes.

For more information on the 2013 Lotus Lantern Festival, visit Korea's tourism site.

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Seoul Lantern Festival 2015

Yesterday evening I attended the Seoul Lantern Festival with some friends. Although I don't typically like to attend events during a school night, past experience convinced me that this was the only feasible time to go to such a popular event. 

When we arrived prior to dusk, I was so pleased to see that we could walk right in the entrance and down to the Cheonggyecheon Stream. Contrast that to last year, when the decision to attend on a Friday night resulted in a packed wait in line for well over an hour and a mob of people pushing down by the stream. Not a very ideal photography scenario!

This year, we started at the far end where the first set of hanji paper lantern sculptures were geared towards kids. Cartoon characters popular in Korea, as well as some of a more international flair. 

There were also some lantern displays with an advertising component and still others of different countries, including one of Mount Rushmore. It felt a bit out of place, but rather interesting to see such an iconic piece of Americana down in Seoul.

My favorite ones were of a traditional theme. The throne room of Deoksugung Palace was particularly impressive, in its scale, detail, and sculptural aspects. 

If you're in town this month, do be sure to come and visit the Seoul Lantern festival. The display will be up until November 22.

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Marching in the Lotus Lantern Parade

I arrived at the Buddhist Cheer Rally not quite sure what the event would all entail, nor did I know what should/could do as a waguk who probably wouldn't understand a single word of what was said. I did know that it would be a colorful event and I was determined to capture it through my camera. I certainly didn't expect to be handed a metal pole containing two identical hanji paper lanterns and invited to march along in the Lotus Lantern Parade, starting from Dongguk University, through the busy streets including cultural Jongno Street, and ending up near Jogyesa Buddhist Temple.

With a lantern in one hand, bag around across the shoulder, and a camera in the other, I marched alongside Koreans who were carrying identical lamps. Each lamp had been outfitted with a tiny light powered by a D-volt battery - a nice modern touch to a tradition dating back over a thousand years. Behind our group was one of several rowdy bands playing folk-style music and twirling the streamer attached to their hat. 

With the parade going through major intersections of the metropolitan city of Seoul, traffic cops let a group of lanters through and then allowed some of the backed-up traffic cross. This gave me some precious moments to take some better photos, properly gripping the d-SLR camera with both hands in the now night sky. At some intersections, floats bearing large sculptural figurative lanterns also made out of hanji paper proceded to wiggle their way into the parade. The combination of traditional and modern, coupled with the neon lights of buildings and huge LG screen displays was quite spectacular. Crowds consisted of people of all ages and nationalities. They cheered the marchers on, many of them holding illuminated lamps of their own. As the parade neared the end, some of the lantern-bearers began to give their lamps to spectators. Some spectators, particularly expats, wiggled their way into the parade, adding their own flair.

Although I knew I missed seeing some of the spectacular floats (including one animatronic dragon that spewed flames) and scenes as seen from the sideline, I knew that marching in the parade was an exciting participatory experience that also gave me a photographic perspective not possible as a spectator. I definitely plan on returning to next year's parade, but perhaps as a spectator. Who knows? 

See more photos on my Flickr page.

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Seoul Lantern Festival 2014

One of my favorite annual festivals in Seoul started this past Friday. The Seoul Lantern Festival, held from November 7-23 at Cheonggye Plaza, transforms the downtown stream into a colorful display for all ages. I went with some colleagues on Saturday night. With no wind and pleasant temperatures, it seemed like all of Korea also thought it was a good night to attend the festival. The line just to get down to the stream was jam packed, snaking up the main sidewalk and all around; thankfully people were civil during the LONG wait.
When we finally got down to the stream, a beautiful array of lanterns were before us, enhanced by music. Many were different from last year, but some of my favorites were there once again. Some such as the Jongmyo musicians were life-size. The leaping fish (larger ones seemed to be made from silk fabric) varied from much larger than life-size to quite small. A few such as the turtle ship were even animated; its sail folded up and down and the dragon head puffed smoke.

The large crowd (made a bit more challenging by very narrow pathways in some points) made it difficult to take the time needed to truly appreciate the intricate craftsmanship of these wire armature works of art covered with handmade hanji paper. Photography was more difficult as well, between the large number of "selfie sticks" competing for space and sheer numbers of people sometimes forcing you to move on. I didn't see anyone fall into the creek, but it wouldn't surprise me if it happened. 

The Seoul Lantern Festival still is a "must see" for me and one I'd recommend to others. However, I'd recommend going on a weeknight or right before it gets dark, in order to avoid the crowds.

Created with flickr slideshow.

Here's a short video by the Globe and Mail on this year's Lantern Festival.

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Nahmae Island, Hindenburg-style

As part of the Namhae Treasure Island Garlic Festival, we participated in its lantern release. The large one was still made out of mulberry hanji paper supported by a wire frame, but foreigners at the festival were given white balloons illuminated by a LED light - eliminating fire hazard. When the officials lit the main lantern, we were asked to release our balloon.   

Although it wasn't quite as picturesque as traditional sky lanterns would be, the balloons still made a pretty sight.

 All eyes were on the large lantern, as it floated into the sapphire night sky. 

Moments later, the lantern exploded in a ball of flames and its skeleton descended back to earth, reminding me of the Hindenburg.

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Human Figures floats at the Lotus Lantern Festival Parade 2015

In addition to the many animals featured in the Lotus Lantern floats, humans were another popular subject. Some were more realistic, and others had a more cartoon or animated look to them. In quite a few, the human figures interacted with animals. Some of these floats were quite large and/or intricate. All were very impressive and quite beautiful. And to think they were made out of paper...

See more from the Lotus Lantern parade on my Flickr.

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In Anticipation for the Lotus Lantern Festival

This morning I went over to Jogyesa Buddhist Temple in downtown Seoul. In just a couple of days, it will be a beehive of activity for the annual Seoul Lotus Lantern Festival.  The Lotus Lantern Parade will end at this beautiful, central temple. The figures above will be illuminated and the lanterns glowing. Although the scene will be at its most magnificence at night, during the daytime it has a special quality as well - and lots less people.

Some of the figures that will be on floats for the parade. It amazes me how such beautiful sculptures are made from wire frames and hanji paper.

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Seoul Lotus Lantern Festival Parade - Marching with the Lanterns

Two years ago, I found myself marching in Seoul's Lotus Lantern Parade. This annual parade is kickoff for the annual celebration of Buddha's birthday and is a very popular event for locals and foreigners alike, regardless of religious affiliation. Everybody loves a parade!

During the nearly two-hour long parade, people of all ages marched, carrying lanterns of all shapes and varied sizes. Some were lit by candles, while others used a more modern (and safer) methods such as 9-volt batteries. 

This time I wanted to be a spectator and actually "see" more of the parade; a very different viewpoint and experience. Along with some friends, we staked out a coffee shop with an open second-story window; perfect for seeing the events below without any of the jostling, along with the benefits of drinks service, a soft chair, and access to the restroom. 

Most of the lanterns would have been made out of hanji paper (thin, but strong traditional Korean paper made from mulberry fibers). Some, such as the lotus lanterns above, would have dyed tissue paper covering the main hanji shell. The sheer artistry of the lanterns in such varied shapes and colors is quite amazing.

Stay tuned for more photos of the Lantern Festival!

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Lotus Lantern Parade 2015: Illuminated Hanji Animal Floats

In addition to the myriad of smaller lanterns that participants carried on poles, the Lotus Lantern Parade in Seoul also featured some very impressive floats. Also made from the same hanji handmade paper as the lanterns, many of the floats were of animals. Most were pushed along by dedicated volunteers who grasped the long handles placed on the sides and/or front & back. A few were pulled by a scooter, but somehow an electric motor just seemed out of place.   

Many of the floats had Buddhist symbols prominently displayed. Others weren't quite as apparent to me. Irregardless, they were enjoyed by all.

As the daylight faded, the illumination became more apparent, and the true beauty emerged. 

Which is your favorite?
See more of my Lotus Lantern Festival parade photos on Flickr.

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Seoul Lotus Lantern Festival - Pencil Lines and Brush Strokes

Although I find the night illuminated lanterns to be magical, I still enjoy looking at them during the daylight. Such viewing enables me to see the brilliant paint carefully applied on the delicate, but strong hanji paper. Pencil lines revealed the hand-drawn nature of the patterns. A slight bulge of the supportive framework is also noted.

All lined up as if parked at the Jogyesa Temple.

Lantern display at night in front of the Jogyesa Temple

Daytime view

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Fire Monkeys, Olbrich Gardens

One of the most popular artist installations within the GLEAM exhibition at the Olbrich Gardens, "The Fire Monkeys" is the creation by local artists Laurie Rossbach & Jennika Bastian. According to the Chinese (and Korean) zodiac, it is the year of the Monkey. 

The installation hearkened me back to the beautiful lanterns I saw while in Korea, in the Lotus Lantern Parade, at the Jogyesa Buddhist Temple, and at Seoul's annual fall Lantern exhibit.  The Fire Monkeys were also created out of paper (in Korea it was called hanji paper), wire, and paint. 

While walking around the gardens at night, I heard the yelping monkey sounds well before I arrived at the willow tree. Each of the monkey sculptures glowed as if on fire, which is one of the four purified elements within Buddhism.

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