Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, a set on Flickr.

After touring some sites in Phenom Penh, we flew to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Although most of our time was spent visiting the many sites within Angkor Wat, we did manage to see a traditional dance show, do a cooking class, and tour a place that trains local young people in learning a traditional craft.

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Happy Pongal 2012

Boiling pot and door, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Tamils all over the world are celebrating the harvest festival of Pongal today. Although kolams (designs made out of rice flour) are typically made in front of Tamil homes, the ones on special occasions such as this are made from colored powder. This kolam, depicting the boiling pot of plenty, sugar cane, coconut, bananas, and other harvest items is not the typical one employing radial symmetry, but I felt it portrayed the harvest festival theme very well.

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Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh, a set on Flickr.

In December, 2011 I visited the Cambodian city of Phnom Penh. Some places covered: The National Museum, Royal Palace, S1 School/Genocide Museum, the Killing Fields, and a local market.

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Victoria Memorial

Perhaps one of the most beautiful colonial building in Kolkata, the Victoria Memorial was conceived after the 1901 death of Queen Victoria. Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India, sought to have a building constructed in her honor - one that would be stately and spacious, and be surrounded by a beautiful garden. It was envisioned to be a historical museum showcasing paintings and statues of those who contributed to the country’s history and help instill a sense of national pride. Through donations, the memorial was constructed and opened in 1921. Situated on a 64 acre tract of manicured lawn, the white marble building stretches 184 ft (56 m) high, with the statue of Victory extending another 16 ft (1.8 m). While the exterior of the building was worth a visit in itself, I paid the extra money to go inside. Here, visitors were welcomed with a large collection of period oil paintings, maps, manuscripts, coins, armor, and weapons. 

With the sun casting a faint orange hue over the dome, it was a signal for me to go. Walking back through the tall iron gate with guardian lion figures, I looked back at the elegant building, sad to see my time in Kolkata drawing to a close.

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Happy New Year - Chennai Style

A kolam of Chennai welcomes in the New Year. May the New Year bring prosperity, health, and happiness to you, wherever you are.

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BBD Bagh Area, Kolkata

After a pleasant early morning walk through a small market and through some back streets, I headed down to the area of Kolkata known as BBD Bagh. One of the villages from which Kolkata grew was situated here. Now it is more noted for its beautiful 18th and 19th century British colonial buildings, many of which were used for commercial and administrative control.

One such building is known as the Writer’s Building. Constructed in 1777, this stately building with its Corinthian columns and arched windows was once operated by the East India Company. Named after the “writers” (clerks) who worked there at the time, it still is used by the state government. 

Another landmark of the area is fondly known as the GPO - the General Post Office. Built in the 1860, its rotunda rises to over 220 feet (67m). Even today, the GPO continues to handle much of the city’s incoming and out-coming mail.

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Kali Puja Night

Although I saw homes and business place tealights and small oil lamps by doorways and in windowsills as part of Diwali, it was Kali who stole center stage in this Bengali city. At street corners, inlets, and in front of storefronts, temporary structures were built to display and honor the idols of Kali. Each had one to several statues of the goddess Kali, typically portrayed with blue skin, long (and often rather unruly) black hair, a garland of trophy severed heads around  her neck, and the signature tongue sticking straight down. Music blared from the speakers, making it easy for those in the vicinity to know that a puja stand was near.

Walking up to one display, I admired the statue that likely took many days to make, contained costly decorative elements, and yet would be drowned in the river a few days later. One person invited me to sit down. Seizing the opportunity, I asked him some questions about this goddess. He explained that Kali actually started out as Durga. According to a story, Durga was asked if she could help stop the rampant overrunning of demons. Soon she developed a taste for blood and began getting out of control. In an effort to stop her, Shiva (her husband) laid down in front of her. Just as she was about to step on him, she stopped in surprise and stuck her tongue straight down, aghast at the thought of what she almost did. (Cultural beliefs were that a wife’s feet should never touch a husband). When asking further questions the man smiled and apologized, saying that he was Muslim and was here to enjoy the festivities with his HIndu friends who had sponsored the display. The man next to him was also Muslim. Celebrating of Indian festivals definitely crosses religious boundaries!

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Kumartuli

Driving across the steel Howrah Bridge boasting as being the third longest cantilever bridge in the world, we then went to Kumartuli, meaning “Area of the Potters.” In these narrow alleys were tiny shops where potters churned out the many Durga idols used for the autumn festival. Few were at work, but I did see some in progress, revealing the straw framework of the nearly life-sized statues, then covered with layers of clay. Over ten men carried a headless multi-armed clay figure through the street using a bamboo support system. Along with the requisite chai shops, some stores specialized in decorative elements for Kali and Durga idols. Here you could take your pick amongst decorative metal swords, tin tridents, and even rows of severed heads. 

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