Nature's Spring Perfume

As the days are now longer and the weather warmer, going for a walk after supper is something I look forward to. Right now is the lilac season, whose sweet scent and equally delicate flowers presents itself from the yards and paths in my neighborhood. The ones behind the walled front yards tend to look fuller, protected from the temptations of passersby who create a bouquet or simply break off a piece to smell as they go for a stroll. Some are sold by little grannies who wait patiently by the National Theatre or green markets, hoping to make a few dinars to offset their meager pensions.

Another purple pleasure is the wisteria. Its cascading flowers have an intoxicating but pleasant perfume which can be detected from quite a distance. Regrettably these don't bloom as long as lilacs, are not as prevalent, and sadly are typically located out of reach. Perhaps it's a good thing, as I would have picked a small piece to enjoy as I continued on my walk.

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The Mosaics of Oplenac

This weekend I revisited the beautiful St. George Church and mausoleum located in the historical region of Topola known as Oplenac. What it lacks for age (it was completed in 1930), it makes up for in its interior decoration. Built by King Peter I as his royal church and resting place of the Karađorđević family, the exterior is covered with the high-quality white marble from nearby Venčac Mountain. Above the main entryway is a mosaic of St. George killing the dragon, symbolizing the victory of Serbian people over its enemies. On top of that is a sculpted coat of arms of the old Karađorđević family.

Unlike the churches of old which were covered with frescoes, the interior of St. George is bejeweled with mosaics in 3,500 square meters of surface. Well crafted and very colorful, the sheer number (725 compositions and over 1,500 figures) makes it nearly impossible to focus anywhere without being distracted by a neighboring scene. Despite taking quite a few photos last time, I felt compelled once again to keep on shooting. Later I could go and zoom in on the photos, beginning to isolate the depicted scenes. In addition to the typical scenes of saints (Serbian and Biblical) and the life of Christ, other themes included the royalty of Serbia. Each king is depicted holding a model of his church in the palm of his hand. Some looked more like priests and others were dressed in more kingly garb.

Following the white marble columns to the top, light streamed through the rather small windows near the ceiling, revealing still more mosaics in the thick window frame. At the top of some columns was the double eagle symbol carved in marble. Looking up, one can't help but notice the huge Pantocrator figure of Christ in the central dome, a replica of the one in monastery at Gračanica. Nine meters in dimension, it's amazing to think that the nose is over 1.5 meters alone! The narrow windows encircling the Pantocrator help illuminate much of the church with soft light, including the splendid colored marble patterned floor. Hanging from the central dome is a huge chandelier made of bronze, weighing 1,500 kg. On the bottom of the chandelier is an upside-down crown, symbolizing the lost Serbian Empire in the battle of Kosovo in 1839.

Mausoleum
Walking down the marble stairs, the temperature became even more cool. Mosaics followed me all the way down. The mausoleum was quite dark, illuminated by some chandeliers and hanging colorful ball-like light fixtures. One's eye couldn't help but be drawn to the brightly lit central arches. Christ again dominates the central position, framed by what looked like a double cross. Four multi-winged angles as described in the Book of Revelations surrounded Christ, tapering off where the arches met the columns. In the rather dimly lit nooks were six generations of the Karađorđević dynasty. In addition to two tombs in the main church, there are 20 tombs in the crypt. Despite the significance of the people buried here, I admit that I gave only a cursory glance to the simple marble burial slabs and spent the rest of the time admiring the mosaics and glowing lamps.

Truly a remarkable place that every person visiting Serbia should see.

See my first entry on Oplenac:

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I Saw My Neighbor in the Dumpster

This evening I went for a walk, determined to enjoy the beautiful weather despite an onslaught of pollen allergy symptoms. I enjoy walking in my neighborhood in Senjak, an area of Belgrade that once was the home of the princes and other elite. Now it is a mixture of expats, embassies (or ambassador residences), wealthier Serbs, and a few residents from olden days. Homes range from the cute and simple white cottages with aging tile roofs to the turreted former palaces, to the tacky mafia-like structures that look totally out of place.

Right next to my apartment building (which is less than 5 years old) is a small brick shack. Its roof, damaged two winters ago in a fire (likely because the owner was trying to heat it using wood) now has a large large plastic sheet over the hole held down with bricks. The yard is full of items rescued from the dumpster, including broken baby strollers, chairs without backs, potted plant carcasses, clothing remnants, and much more. I like it when the trees green out, as I don't have to see the rubbish when look outside my window.

This evening as I walked past the Hungarian Embassy, I saw a short person standing on a wooden crate and trying to reach into the garbage dumpster. Suddenly he reached in further, his whole upper body now out of sight. Such "involvement" was a bit unusual, as I typically would see the dumpster "divers" simply picking through the top with their hands or a stick. Emerging with some "treasure," when the man turned around I recognized the man as my Roma neighbor - otherwise known as a "gypsy." Smiling politely and saying "dobar dan," I greeted him and moved on.

I wonder what treasure will be added to the yard next....

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1999 NATO Bombing Anniversary

Monday, March 24 marked the 9th anniversary of the NATO bombing on Serbia, known then yet as Yugoslavia. Thankfully, the commemoration went peacefully, with leading Belgrade officials laying wreaths on monuments and graves of some of the victims. A memorial service was held at St. Mark's church downtown.

A brief history
For 78 days, 19 Allied members began bombing regions of Serbia and Kosovo, with some of the first bombs targeted at Belgrade. The estimated number of people killed is set between 1,200 and 2,500 people including 89 children. Over 10,000 people were injured. One of the first casualties occurred at 2am on the 24th, killing 16 (mainly young) employees at the state RTS TV station almost right next to the St. Mark's Church where today's service was held. Other bombed sites in Belgrade included the Yugoslav Army General Staff building, the Chinese Embassy, a downtown hospital, several other military buildings, fuel tanks, virtually all RTS transmitters, and the nearby Avala TV tower.
Throughout the country bridges, military sites, and places such as a chemical plant were bombed.

Some of the bombed buildings, such as the RTS (above) building and military building (right) were never repaired. Nor is there money to tear them down.

The NATO air strikes ended on June 10 when the United Nations adopted the Resolution 1244.

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Belgrade riots - update

Although it's been a month since the protests in Belgrade erupted that February evening, the calm on the streets has not rolled back time. Plywood has replaced most of the windows on the lower floor of the US Embassy. Paint has covered up some of the scorch marks, while others are quite evident. The outer layer of the treated window glass in the street level entrance of the embassy retains its web-like shatteredness. Inside, things are very quiet, with non-essentsential personnel evacuated. Elsewhere along Knez Milosa "aka embassy row", some diplomatic buildings remain gated and a couple with faded paint marking where their country's emblem signs once hung, gone along with the diplomats.

At school things are quieter as well. Desks of US Steel and US embassy children still remain empty. Classmates miss their friends who had to leave so suddenly - some never to return. Aside from some British families, most of the kids remaining at school are non-native English speakers, which makes instruction and group work a bit more challenging. We were also short a few teachers, two temporarily away to assist the evacuated students at their temporary schools, and one ordered to evacuate due to her status as a non-essential embassy family member status. The hope is that if Belgrade remains calm through the soon-to-be anniversary of the 1999 NATO bombing, then some will be able to return to Belgrade and back to school.

Even if the anniversary passes quietly, it will take some time before Serbia can begin to erase its negative, violent perception in the eyes of the world. It is my hope that with the new elections in May (the prime minister stepped down), a more EU-focused government can help move the country forward and away from potential isolationism.

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Beginnings of Spring

Walking in Belgrade during mid-March can be a pleasure. The warmth of the rays along with the blue skies beckons people to come forth from their homes. The simple melody of a songbird can be heard once more. Bulb flowers have emerged from their slumber and annuals are for sale, the local farmer with his makeshift stands on milk crates. The fruit trees are in blossom, their delicate whites and pinks giving off a gentle perfume. The forsythia bushes are a golden yellow, particularly striking against a blue sky. Every day, the leaves of the tall chestnut trees are released from their tight fist, soon to make the lined streets green once more.
The café chairs have been taken outside, arranged for outdoor customers as soon as the city ordinance permits. Locks on the ice cream freezers have been taken off, its contents ready for the first customers of the season. Soccer season has begun and construction - well, it's never stopped!

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Tough Night in Belgrade

I write this in the Munich airport, on the last leg of my journey back to Belgrade, likely for the last time. Over the past few days I’ve heard about the protests in Belgrade, aimed particularly at the US Embassy and other countries that supported Kosovo’s independence. Reading it in the newspaper is one thing; seeing it on TV escalates the reality more when you see a building personally frequented set on fire and its flag burned. I’m sure once I pass through Knez Miloša street (otherwise known as “Embassy Row” due to the large number of embassies concentrated here) the reality will become even more vivid. I presume the building in which my paintings are exhibited was not affected, but I cannot be sure.

Although I believe that the riots will be short-lived, questions of safety do come up. Will other institutions such as the school be targeted, with its large number of diplomatic students? How about other places frequented by expats? A McDonald’s and Nike store, both symbols of foreign-owned companies, were already vandalized. I hope that the government will step in and take an active role in quelling the violent protests. If it chooses not to or is unable, outside forces such as the UN may intervene – something certainly not palatable to Serbs. Upcoming reactions will determine whether Serbia chooses a path towards increasing nationalism and further isolationism within the international community, or moving towards integration within the EU.

......

Back in Belgrade, a taxi driver was waiting for me. He shared with me a bit about the events of yesterday and his reflections. He was fine with the large number of people who gathered outside of the Parliament building to protest peacefully (around 300,000 people). It was only at night that a small number who attacked the embassies. He condemned the attacks and wished that the protesters would have signed petitions or written letters to the western embassies - a much more peaceful action. Watching the events unfold on TV, his memories were taken back to the start of the NATO bombing. With two young children though, he has much more to be concerned about. Although he believed that the unrest would be short-lived, he expressed a recent urge to leave with his family to another country where there was peace and economic opportunity.

I will keep a low profile for the next week or so, just in case. School was canceled today as a precaution. Having said that, I do feel safe.

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Kosovo Announces its Independence

(written Sunday, Feb. 17)

So now it is official. Kosovo has declared its independence from Serbia. Not that it was unexpected. It came at a difficult time for Boris Tadić, newly elected and trying to balance his pro-Western stance with that of maintaining a unified Serbia. Serbs I talked to are opposed to the independence, but have resigned to the inevitable – what the West wants, the West gets. Issues such as a growing disparity between wages and costs (housing has particularly gone up in recent years), unemployment (currently around 20%), etc. are much more pressing on their minds. Echoed by many a Serb though (including young adults) is a sentiment for the “good ‘ol days of Yugoslavia” when standards of living were high, educational systems were excellent, its citizens enjoyed freedom of travel, and the country held an elevated political status.

It will be interesting to see what, if any repercussions there are for other countries that have “breakaway” regions or groups seeking their own nation. Not surprisingly, many of these countries (including several in the EU) were against the ratification of Kosovo’s independence. Will the Baltic region maintain its stability – Bosnia, Romania and former Russian states? Will Albania, now emboldened by its acquisition of Serbian territory, expand its quest for a “greater Albania” and seek to also add land from Macedonia?

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The Pressures of 4-yr Old Kindergarten

One of the side benefits about teaching overseas is that you become much more informed geographically and regarding the news of countries/regions in which you've taught and/or interviewed. Now my eyes/ears are perked up regarding news in India. Here is one such story, taken from the Herald Tribune:

I have been told that Indians place a high value on education. Imagine though, that the school that your 4 year old child gets into is believed to make or break their future. Families, desperate to get their child into a top private school, will do anything to make it happen - offer prayers, set aside bribe money, and spend many restless nights worrying. Some apply for around 15 schools for their pre-kindergarten child, all in the hopes of getting in to the most desirable one. This is their chance to make a better life for their child - even if it means taking out hefty loans just to fund the education of their pint-sized offspring. Getting into the top school also carries the "designer label" affect and sends a message about the status of the family and what social class you're in.

In an overcrowded country where 40% of the population is under 18 and most of the rest under 30, there simply are not enough spaces for all children, particularly in the private schools. Sometimes, these young kids commute more than 65 km (40 miles) every day to go to a good or at least a well-regarded school. More private schools are sprouting up, but it still isn't enough. One International school received 2,014 applications for 112 pre-kindergarten seats. Some, hoping their money or influence will help get their child in (admission criteria is set by the school and does have preferential acceptance, such as girls, kids from single parents, or kids whose siblings already go to the school), try to exert their power or offer a "donation." One person who works at the electricity board threatened to cut off the school's power if a certain child was not admitted.

What kind of pressure these kids must be under to perform- and already at 4 years old!

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A Day in the Belgrade Police Station

I walked through the metal detector at the entryway of a nondescript concrete Communist-era building. The pace through the detector was quite fast - I question whether anyone could even be singled out and searched. Following a quick check at the information desk, we headed over to a large room, framed by numbered windows. At nearly every window was a queue, ours being no exception. While waiting for my turn, I peered through the portions of glass windows not obscured by information and notices. Piled on desks and shelves were huge file folders containing worn-looking documents. By the outside window were some antiquated machines, some of which I did not even know what they were for.
When it was my turn, Goran, our school expeditor, spoke on my behalf, explaining that I needed a police clearance for my job in Chennai. With a smile, she gave us a form to fill out and wrote down some helpful information that would expedite the process at the next place, 5 floors up.
With nine people crammed into an elevator with a 5 person capacity, we waited until the next round. Standing in line again at this window, I could see similar bulging, worn file folders piled high on all book cases and available spots. Taking a look at the writing by the helpful lady downstairs, the worker quickly processed the form and directed us back down to the first lady. Waiting in line at the original booth, Goran instructed me to stay while he left to get something. Shortly thereafter, he returned with a chocolate bar and explained that this lady had expedited background checks on the school's custodial staff, saving each worker several hours of potentially lost work time. As the lady gave me the official, stamped document, Goran handed her the bar, thanking her again.
Considering the bureaucracy and visible amount of non-digitized paperwork , I was amazed at how quickly the process took - less than two hours. It wouldn't have been possible without Goran's know-how and the lady's helpfulness. Indeed, the chocolate bar was worth it!

That evening I took the police clearance document (written in Cyrillic) to a co-worker, whose husband is a lawyer and offered to do the official translation. Thanking him for his service, I took the tram back home, glad that the paperwork for the police clearance was now over

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Presidential Voting in Serbia

On this cloudless springlike Sunday, Serbs are casting their vote for President. Voting is quite heavy, as Serbs see this election's outcome as important in determining the future direction of Serbia.

Boris Tadic of the Democratic Party is seen as more Western-leaning. He sees the future of Serbia as part of the EU, supports economic reforms, and pledges cooperation with The Hague UN war crimes tribunal.

His opponent is Tomislav Nikolic, member of the Radical Party, which was an ally of Milosevic. Nikolic believes that Serbia, a country of "unfulfilled promises and great expectations," is better served by allying with Russia and China. He opposes the tribunal and has serious doubts about the country's relationship with the EU.

Both candidates oppose Kosovo's independence, but the Nikolic's party is reported to have said that it could take extreme measures against any country that recognizes Kosovo's independence. Tadic is in a tougher position, as his desire for the country's integration within the EU may be in direct conflict with this, perhaps forcing him to chose one over the other.

The Radical party has garnered more support this election, including citizens who are disenfranchised with how things are going, voting against political parties that have been in power the last seven years- and for the Radical Party which touts itself as against the status quo + standing up to the West. Others have become apathetic and will abstain from voting.

Although it is expected that the Albanian Kosovars will issue its declaration of independence in the next few weeks, how Serbia will react will likely depend on who sits alongside the current prime minister.

For a position that is largely ceremonial, it seems that Serbian citizens - and the world - are taking this election seriously.

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A Bit About Chennai

Formerly known as Madras, Chennai is the 4th largest city in India, with a population of around 6 million. Nicknamed “The Gateway to the South,” Chennai is the capital of the southern state of Tamil Nadu. Located on the Bay of Bengal, the sprawling city includes two major ports and the 2nd longest beach in the world.

History/Economics
Established by the British in the 1600’s, Chennai has recently undergone tremendous growth and change. Much of India’s automotive industry is in Chennai, including Hyundai, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Renault, Ford, and BMW (hence the large number of Koreans at the school). It is also the country’s second largest exporter of information technology. Electronics companies such as Dell, Samsung, Nokia, Sony Ericsson now manufacture here. Pfizer, and Dow Chemical company also have their presence here. This influx of companies is a major reason for the school’s recent growth.

Culture
More interesting to me is the culture of the area, due largely to the variety of regional ethnic groups. Rich in arts and literature, Chennai is famous for its various cultural events, including a renowned 5-week long music festival in December. Its thriving movie industry, known as Kollywood, is internationally known. I look forward to seeing the classical dance form Bharatanatyam, as well as attend concerts incorporating traditional instruments such as the sitar and tabala. Shopping opportunities abound, from the few large shopping malls to the market stalls. Famous for its magnificent silk saris, Chennai also is a place to buy cast bronze, traditional jewelry, and stone sculptures.

Climate
Located on the thermal equator, Chennai is largely tropical throughout the year, with some cooling in the winter. Temperatures range from around 67° F (19°C) in January, all the way up to 104°F (40°C) in May/June. It gets most of its rain (annual = 51 inches, or 1,300 mm) from the monsoon winds, which occur from September to mid-December. I guess I will be packing away my wool Sirogojno sweaters and snow boots!

Language/Religion
Tamil is the dominant language, but English is widely spoken as well (to varying degrees of “understandability”), particularly in the business sector. Most natives are Hindu, but there are also some that practice Islam and Christianity.

Education/Health Care
Chennai is home to an extensive array of schools and universities, a testament to its emphasis on education. Literacy rate is at 81%, well above the national average. With its renowned medical colleges, access to quality health care is easy – and at very affordable rates. Because it is tropical, precautions need to be taken against malaria, as well as water-borne diseases such as dysentery. My experience in Mali should prove useful here.

Transportation
I’ve been told that the traffic in Chennai can best be described as “chaotic.” A mixture of busses, autos, motorbikes, and auto rickshaws all vie for dominance. Some teachers have a car and driver, a few brave folks drive themselves, and others take the auto rickshaws to school.

More to come…in August….
With New Teacher Orientation starting on July 31, look for postings of my new international journey of India to begin in August. I’m sure I’ll be taking lots of photos…

Image Sources: http://india-outside-my-window.blogspot.com, http://www.wordtravels.com/images/map/India_map.jpg, http://www.indianetzone.com/1/india_temples.htm

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Accepted Job as Tech Facilitator at the American International School of Chennai

On Friday I accepted the position of Elementary Technology Integration Facilitator at the American International School of Chennai.

This is a new position, initiated with the goal of helping teachers to become more comfortable/competent in technology and integrate it within the curriculum. According to those I spoke with (Director and the IT coordinator, via Skype), the teachers see the importance of technology, but need guidance and support in using technology. This is particularly true of the Indian teachers who don’t often get computer training in their education. I had the opportunity to speak with the IT coordinator via Skype, which helped me get a better idea of the school’s technology initiatives, setup, etc. I look forward to working with him.

Since I have already paid for the recruitment fair and flight, I will go to New York, meet the school Director, and then hit some museums, some sightseeing, and shopping – just enjoy myself!

Some information about the school:

• Student enrollment: 579 PK-12 (a 49% increase since 2006)
• Student makeup: 28 nationalities. Major groups: 37% Korean, 23% N. American. Many others are from France, UK, Japan, Malaysia, Denmark, and Sweden.
• Founded: 1995
• Curriculum: American, International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program
• Campus: 10 acres, purpose-built facility
• Faculty: 83 (50/50 foreign/local hire
• Technology: 400 computers, including 3 laptop carts, mounted projectors in an increasing number of rooms

AISC also employs a full-time "India Studies" teacher, who arranges a variety of cultural experiences for the school, including guest performers and field experiences ranging from a few hours to several day trips. This will help expose the school community to the richness that this culturally rich and geographically diverse country has to offer.

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The Roma- Belgrade's Recyclers

In Belgrade, city recycling is sparse. Money is a big factor, as it takes quite a bit to start up recycling facilities and recycling trucks. I hate throwing cans, glass bottles, plastic, etc. in the garbage.

Instead, the biggest recyclers in Belgrade are the Roma. You will see them around town with their push carts, bicycle carts, and even motorized carts. During the cold of winter, up steep the hills of Belgrade, in neighborhoods, in busy streets - all places where you see these carts. The main contents of these carts is cardboard, gathered from dumpsters. Boxes are carefully flattened and neatly stacked, so as to fit the maximum amount in a cart. Some likely is used for their ramshackle homes and the rest they get money from the government. It's a win-win situation for all.

In addition to collecting cardboard, the Roma are great dumpster divers. Pieces deemed as potentially useful/wanted are often placed next to the dumpsters or attached in a bag. Items tossed and unwanted become treasures for the Roma. Items, particularly discarded furniture, are welcome additions to their homes. Some items are sold along the street next to the main flea market. I even hear that there is a Roma flea market.

I do hope that Belgrade starts a true recycling program soon. Until then, it's the Roma that perform much of this service....

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Bratislava

Leaving Belgrade
My friend Olja knew that I had been wanting to visit Prague, so when a local tour agency offered a trip during our Christmas break to the Czech capital and a brief stop in Bratislava, we took advantage of the trip and its excellent price. We would have to contend with a long bus ride and I understood that the tour guide explanations would be in Serbian, but I didn’t mind.

Bratislava
After a night bus ride, we arrived in the Slovakian capital of Bratislava around 7 am. A bit too early for the hotel, we were driven past an area containing several embassies, modern glassy homes next to more modest ones, and a former munitions manufacturing area. We stopped at the new Parliament building, next to which was a “stunning view” of the Danube. However, that view was obscured by a thick fog, which was “highly unusual” according to our local guide.

Due to its strategic location on the Danube, Bratislava has been an important center for trading since early times. For over 250 years, it was the capital of old Hungary. In 1809 Napoleon bombed Bratislava from the right bank of the Danube, not respecting the very treaty he signed with the Austrian emperor just four years earlier. When the breakup of Czechoslovakia in 1993, Bratislava became the seat of the Presidency, and the most important cultural, industrial, and scientific institutions. The largest city of Slovakia, it only has a population of 450,000.

Our local tour guide, a stocky older man wearing a thick, Russian-style fur hat, gave us a morning tour of the old city. We went past St. Martin’s Church, a Gothic structure built in 1452 and place where eleven Hungarian kings and eight royal wives were crowned. Near here was a monument to the Jews from WWII. Walking further into the old city, the tall white St. Michael’s Gate could be seen, the only preserved gate of the medieval city fortifications. After a short break to get something hot to drink and warm up (it was below freezing outside), we continued our tour. We saw the fancy yellow national theatre, walked through the passages old city hall with its decorative green roof, and the pink Primate’s Palace. Along one street, the guide pointed out the Paparazzi bronze figure, ready to take a photo from around the corner. Nearby was The Watcher, a bronze statue of a man inconspicuously peeping from a street manhole. Kids were seen playing on and around it, rubbing his already polished golden head. A special traffic sign alerts drivers of its location, so as to not drive over the sculpture.

After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we went back into the city via tram. The city now was livelier, with more people in the streets and around the booths in the main square. Olja and I headed up to the Jewish Quarter, with its narrow streets and old buildings. We made a short stop in Clock Museum, located in the House of the Good Shepherd, a beautiful narrow yellow building from 1760-65. On each side of the cobblestone streets were colorful buildings, each connected to the other in a long row. In the balconies of apartments, I noticed Christmas trees wrapped tightly in plastic. Perhaps they wait until Christmas Eve to set them up. Nearing Castle Hill was the modest Chapel of St. Catherine with a small wooden tower, the oldest church in Bratislava but in derelict condition. The Bratislava Castle overlooking the Danube River, dominated over the city on its high hill. Like the Kalemegdan fortress in Belgrade, it was built and rebuilt many times over its long history starting around 907 AD. Features include 7-meter thick fortification walls built in 1437, a baroque-style castle building, and numerous smaller buildings. The castle, currently housing the Slovak Parliament and National Museum, is due to be renovated.

Back again at the main square, we wandered through the aisles of booths selling souvenirs, crafts, food, and drinks. The smell of grilled meat as it sizzled permeated the air. When looking at a local-looking craft item made out of straw, we were shocked to see that it too was made in China. So much for local handicrafts! To warm up, we bought a cup of hot wine and then proceeded to wander though the streets until supper. We found a restaurant that served Bryndzové haluisky, the Slovakian national dish of potato dumplings in sheep cheese sprinkled with bacon. It wasn’t as good as the ones we had in the Tatras, but it would have to suffice. Warmed up a bit again, we proceeded to do a bit more wandering through the streets, took some photos of the lit Christmas tree in the main square, observed some Peruvian-sounding flute music played by people dressed in Plains Indian costumes, and then took a tram back to the hotel.

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Christmas Eve in Prague

Prague
Already dark, our first destination was the Old Town Square. Red light emanated from the tall Christmas tree dominating the Eastern side. In front of the tree was a life-size Nativity scene carved from wood. Once a site for public executions of 27 Protestants in 1621 after losing the Battle of the White Mountain, the historical square was now filled with a sense of festivity. Vendors in the red-roofed stands sold crafts, local hot dogs/sausages, grilled meats, roasted chestnuts, and hot drinks.

Right around the corner was the Old Town Tower, whose unusual clock is the most famous in Prague. Within the series of circles, one will find a calendar, astronomical clock, and representation of daylight hours. On each side of the astronomical and calendar clocks are two wooden figures, each representing something (such as Greed or Vanity). On the hour, Death (a rather cute looking skeleton) pulls a rope and the angel appears to pull it at the other end. Near the top, two window open up and the 11 Apostles + St. Paul slowly move around. At the end of the show, sound coming from a window above the Apostles reveals a cock. You could always tell when the hour was about to happen, as large amounts of people began amassing in front of the 15th century clock.

We then headed towards Prague Castle, crossing the famous Charles Bridge. Built in 1357, the bridge was the only crossing over the Vltava River from the Old Town to the Little Quarter until the 1700’s. Now crowded with pedestrians, it used to carry 4 carriages side-by-side. Lining the entire span of the bridge are a multitude of sculptures of saints, added at various times about 400 years after the bridge’s completion. Quite a number of the sculptures (actually copies, as the originals are in the National Museum) were very dark, making it difficult to photograph with natural light. A few brave souls set up tripods to take photos of the bridge and the Prague Castle region, illuminated at night.

After a brief walk around the Little Quarter Square, my fingers were so cold that I was feeling very clumsy using the camera – was I pressing the shutter release or not? Noticing that the St. Nicholas Church was still closed due to filming, we decided to find a restaurant to eat – and to warm up. We chose a cozy, well-establish restaurant, where I ordered a meal of pork au gratin with bacon and mushroom sauce. For desert, we split a dish of sweet dumplings with yogurt sauce and drizzled chocolate. Good, but not something I would need to try again. Beer lovers would be happy in Prague, as a glass was about half the price of coke or tea.

Temporarily warmed up, we headed back to the Old Town Square. Crowds were noticeably thinner. At the stage next to the tall Christmas tree, a group was performing Renaissance-style Christmas music. I was quick to point out to Olja when they played the rauspheife instrument, as that is the Renaissance instrument that I also play. Although we enjoyed the concert, I pitied the performers whose fingers were likely very cold. Once finished, we took the efficient metro back to the hotel.

Christmas Traditions in Prague
With its Protestant/Catholic roots, Christmas is still an important celebration for Prague residents. On Christmas Eve and Day, everything is closed for this national holiday. Even during Socialism, no one worked. On these days, it is customary to visit the cemetery. Taking your dog out for a walk was the main thing you saw residents do. I couldn't get over how many small/toy dogs residents had!

The house would be thoroughly cleaned in preparation for the festivities. Fried carp, a delicacy, was prepared along with soup and special cakes. According to our local guide, Christmas now is less focused on remembering Christ’s birth and more about commercialism and eating. Even the pets get presents!

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Prague Castle, Hradcany

Tour of Prague
With the exception of those walking dogs, most others seemed to be in tour groups, struggling to hear their guide or follow the umbrella/silly pole held up by the leader. Our guide pointed out that much of the city was flooded 5 years ago. Most of the administrative buildings were built just after the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Prague Castle
Our tour started up by the Castle. This was quite fitting, since origins of Prague started on this hill in the 9th century. The original walls (part of which remained) enclosed a palace, three churches, and a monastery. The castle has been rebuilt many times, with its Renaissance style achieved in 1541. At the castle entrance, two guards stood in uniform. Shortly thereafter, a small parade of guards marched out and performed the hourly Changing of the Guard. In the first courtyard were some large wooden flagpoles, gently tapered to a point higher than the Late Baroque buildings. Walking through the second larger courtyard, our first destination was the St. Vitus Cathedral.

St. Vitus Cathedral
Within the castle walls is St. Vitas Cathedral, a Gothic structure towering over the city as one of its most distinctive landmarks. Construction began in 1344, but the finishing touches were made almost 600 years later – in 1929. Although the main part of the church actually was fairly wide, the soaring height of the walls gave it the illusion of being narrow. Facing to the front, three stained-glass windows curved gently at the top to echo the intricate webbed Gothic tracery on the ceiling. On the opposite end is a Rose Window designed from 1925-7, depicting the Creation. Due to the large numbers of people and trying to stay with our tour group, it was difficult to dwell at any place for very long.
To the left of the main entrance were some beautiful stained glass windows, including some by Czech Secessionist painter, Alfons Mucha. Lining the periphery of the church were small chapels containing relics, centuries of paintings, and statues. Some of the tombs were extremely elaborate, including the tomb of St. John Nepomuk, which was made of solid silver. Located on the site of the former St. Wenceslas Rotunda, the St. Wenceslas Chapel walls are filled with Gothic frescoes of scenes from the Bible and life of Wenceslas. In once corner was a tall, elaborate golden structure that held Communal wafers and wine. An altar is decorated with semi-precious stones. Another chapel held a Nativity scene, something found in every church.

The outside of the cathedral is a feast for the eye as well. Gargoyles of both human and beast forms are scattered throughout, each one unique. The main tower near the original entrance was finished with a Baroque green-colored bell tower. Although the West half was completed in the 20th century, it incorporates Neo-Gothic elements and designs, making it blend in with the rest of the cathedral. Delicate flying buttresses surround the exterior of the nave and chancel (East end). The Golden Portal, originally the entrance, has a 14th century mosaic of the Last Judgment above the three doors.

Other Parts of Prague Castle and Hradčany
Moving onward, we went past St. George’s Basilica, the best-preserved Romanesque church in Prague. Its bright red façade – a Baroque addition – was attractive to me, but I didn’t know at the time it was a church. Closeby is the picturesque Golden Lane, a short narrow 17th century street. A recent change, admission is now charged to walk through. Once out of the Castle area, we stopped to take a look at the view below of the Little Quarter and distant Old Town. Unfortunately, fog/haze prevented us from seeing much.

The area right outside the Castle is known as Hradčany, a town founded in about 1320. One of its notable buildings is the Strahov Monastery. Rebuilt after a fire in 1258, its famous attraction is its 800-yr old library. Although there were books in several rooms, the most impressive one was Philosophical Hall, which had books neatly shelved in warm wooden bookcases up to the ceiling along each wall, and a baroque spacious ceiling fresco. Sadly visitors are no longer able enter this hall – just view it from behind the plexiglass-blocked entrance. Strahov, once again a functioning monastery after the fall of the Socialist regime, also has a brewery.

The Loreto has been a place of pilgrimage ever since it was opened in 1626. The decorative white Baroque façade and its large bell tower must look stunning against a blue sky – which never happened while we were there. After paying the entrance fee,
we walked past a few chapels some of which were closed to view and others gated. In the courtyard was the Santa Casa, a copy of the house believed to be the Virgin Mary’s. Its outer surface is filled with reliefs of the life of Mary and some Biblical prophets. While outside, the 30 small bells (dating back to 1694) tolled – a sweet sound. Inside of the Church of the Nativity, the supposedly gruesome fully-clothed skeletons with death masks were less than impressive. Finally at the treasure room, we had the chance to see the valuable liturgical items of the Loreto. Many of the items were so encrusted with semi-precious gems or fancy shapes that I found them rather hideous looking. Not being Catholics, it took us a bit to figure out what a “monstrance” is – for displaying the host. The only one I liked was a gold-plated, diamond-encrusted monstrance that had rays radiating from the place where the wafer would be displayed. A bit of a disappointment (particularly after visiting St. Agnes Convent’s excellent collection), we moved onward. Too bad we didn’t visit the Sternberg Palace instead, with its collection including an El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt, and other Old World Masters.

While walking down towards the Little Quarter, we passed by the Schwartzenberg Palace. Built in 1576, the sgrafitto patterned surface caught my attention. The interior sounds equally decorative.

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Jewish Quarter and St. Nicholas Cathedral

Jewish Quarter
With all the sights closed, this was a great opportunity to enjoy the architecture. One of our first stops after the tour ended was the Jewish Quarter. Located near the Old Town, the area had a concentrated number of synagogues and an old cemetery. Looking through the closed gate, I could see the cemetery crammed with simple grey gravestones jutting out of the ground at various angles. I read that there are over 12,000 gravestones, but an estimated 100,000 people buried there – due to the fact that for over 300 years, it was the only place where Prague Jews could be buried. The Jewish Town Hall, built in 1570 but remodeled in 1763 with a Baroque look, stood out amongst the more somber buildings. Once on the hitlist for demolition in a campaign to raze the entire Jewish Quarter (health hazard due to complete lack of sanitation), the distinctive building is now the seat of the Czech Jewish communities. The walls of one synagogue are a memorial to the Czech Jews killed in the Holocaust. The persecution of Jews is longstanding, including oppressive laws such as a 16th century law in which they had to wear a yellow circle as a mark of shame. Within the Jewish Quarter are some beautiful Art Nouveau buildings and a few churches.

Dusk at around 3:45, our architecture viewing was essentially over. In the Old Town Square, the stands were all closed, but there still was quite a large amount of people. Shops, except for some souvenir stores, were closed. We were warned that many of the restaurants would be by reservation only, but we did find a small one, where I had local apple strudel and hot chocolate.

Dec. 26- Museum Tour Day
On our last day in Prague, Olja and I did the museum “tour”. After being dropped off by our bus (part of the group was going to a sight outside of Prague), we headed towards Prague Castle. On the way, we walked through the New Town. In Wenceslas Square, was one of the buildings I had wanted to see – the Wiehl House. Completed in 1896, this 5-storey building is in the Neo-Renaissance style, with colorful sgraffito and some Art Nouveau sculpture. We also passed by the Powder Gate, one of 13 entrances into the Old Town and begun in 1475. It was modeled after the Old Town bridge tower, complete with rich sculptural decoration. It received its present name in the 17th century when it was used to store gunpowder. Next to the Powder Gate is the Municipal House, one of Prague’s most prominent Art Nouveau buildings. Built in 1905-11, the cream-colored building’s exterior has allegorical sculptures around the entrance, corners, and in front of the glass dome. Above the decorative entrance is a large semi-circular mosaic entitled Homage to Prague. It would have been fun to go inside this building and see the decorative works of Mucha and various Art Nouveau artists, or to enjoy a concert in the main hall with its superb acoustics.

Already in the vicinity of the St. Agnes of Bohemia Convent, we decided to go there next. Started in 1234 by a sister of King Wenceslas I (she wasn’t canonized until 1989), the convent was one of the first Gothic buildings in Bohemia. Recent painstaking restoration has now brought the convent back to much of its original appearance. It is now used to display a collection of medieval art from Bohemia and Central Europe. The pieces, some dating back to the 1300’s, were carefully arranged and included explanations in both Czech and English. It was interesting to follow the evolution in its depictions of Mary and Jesus, from a more stiff arrangement, others more human, and still others more flowing. Many of the pieces were in excellent condition, particularly remarkable since they were sculpted of or painted on wood. Several altarpieces were in the collection, including one that is completely intact – a rarity. I appreciated being able to go around and see the “back” side of the altar, the part that you would see if the piece was closed. After touring this exhibition, the others of the day, particularly The Loreto, were disappointing.

Wandering up the narrow streets of the Little Quarter, we made our way up to St. Vitas Cathedral, where I took close-up photos of gargoyles, and then on to the Loreto and Strahov Monastery. The Church of St. Nicholas was our next destination. The most distinctive landmark of the Little Quarter, construction of this High Baroque church occurred from 1703-1761. Altars were highly ornate and one had carved golden cherubs over most of it. Above the main entrance was the baroque organ, once played by Mozart. The ceiling is full of frescoes, including a large lofty one in the main section. In the 230 ft (70 m) high dome was a fresco entitled The Celebration of the Holy Trinity. With my zoom lens, I was able to capture detail not otherwise possible from the ground floor. In front, the High Altar contains a copper statue of St. Nicholas. Around the side of the pinkish marble columns and interior are well-crafted statues of the Church Fathers, including St. Cyril, who Christianized the Slavs.

Later, we did our shopping, buying handmade gifts (not those made in China) at special Czech handmade stores and I bought a marionette. No Czech glass for us!
That evening, we boarded the bus for the long trip back to Belgrade.

Reflection
I found Prague to be one of the most picturesque cities I've visited. Although full in varied architecture, I found its Baroque, Gothic, and Art Nouveau/Secessionism architecture to be particularly noteworthy. I would love to come back and revisit spots, arriving early in the morning before the crowds obscure the view. Perhaps in spring/summer, when the gardens are in their glory and one can sit in an outdoor café in the town square....

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Karlovy Vary

On Christmas Day, we went to Karlovy Vary, located about 85 miles (140 km) and a 1 ½ hour drive from Prague. As we went through rural Czech Republic, I admired the frosty trees. With our group, we took a tour of the town, famous for its hot springs. We walked past several fancy spa resort hotels. A river, also kept warm with thermal waters, flows through the center of much of the town. A fair number of mallard ducks were enjoying themselves in the warm water, including a few female mallards that began having a squabble. Following the river, we entered the utilitarian (but not pretty) Russian building, which contains the Thermal Spring, the largest of the mineral springs. It can spurt up to 40 feet high (12 meters) and is also the hottest, at 161°F (72°C). Olja bought of the traditional “porcelain” cups, so we each had a drink of the highly-concentrated and hot mineral water. Drinking the water is supposed to be good for digestive disorders.

Back outside in the winter air, our group walked past the Mill Colonnade, a highly controversial building with 124 Corinth-style columns completed in 1881. Many of the residents, when the cover was finally withdrawn from the building construction, were aghast, particularly at how the building looked horribly out of place with the rather harmonious look of the town. I would have to agree. Interestingly enough, the building was used in a James Bond movie that was supposed to take place in the mafia-filled country of Montenegro. Karlovy Vary also has some increasing problems with mafia, particularly by Russians who are also buying up a lot of property and exerting undue influence. I did see a surprising number of Russian Cyrillic signs and Olja noted that there were quite a few Russians entering the fancy shops.

Next to the Mill Colonnade is the Market Colonnade, a wooden structure inspired by Swiss architecture and built in 1883. It was meant to cover the mineral springs for a couple of years only, but local authorities decided to keep it and reconstructed the white lacy wood work building. Crossing one of the pedestrian bridges, the St. Mary Magdalene Church, built in the Baroque style in 1737 was prominent.

After lunch, we traversed the streets, peeking into the shop windows and admiring the colorful architecture. Due to a devastating fire in 1604 that destroyed everything except 3 houses, there was nothing that was significantly old. Art Nouveau/Secessionist architectural styles were noted in a number of buildings. Most were very well preserved and freshly painted. For the wealthy, Moser glassware and Thun porcelain were local specialties to be purchased. For the average person, buying the Becherovka herbal liqueur, Mattoni mineral water, or spa wafers were much more affordable. Olja and I tried the thin, but large cookie wafers filled with a selection of flavors, but we didn’t find them all that flavorful. After a pleasant walk through the town, we boarded the local transport bus (very crowded) that took us back to the parking lot and headed back to Prague.

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New Year's in Belgrade

New Year's Eve
My trip to Prague over, I was back in Belgrade for New Year's. Although I was perfectly content to stay at home (New Year's is not a big deal for me), a friend invited me to her apartment for a small celebration with a few others. Stemming back to Communist times when religious holidays were downplayed, New Year's remains a larger event for Belgrade residents than Christmas.

When I arrived to her apartment, I was served hot rakija. This drink, made from plum brandy (the national drink of Serbia), is common for New Year's. On the table was more food than those gathered could possibly ever eat - very typical for Serbian hosts.

Although it was a few hours to midnight, the TV was turned on. Conversations still occurred over the sound of the TV, mostly in Serbian. When the station began its live New Year's show, conversations quieted down when the music started. Soon the apartment was filled with the joyous sound of people singing along with the traditional national songs. Various singer "greats" performed the songs that made them famous. One of the singers was a parent of two of the children at our school. Even though these songs were quite old, all generations in the apartment enjoyed them equally. Most of the songs were accompanied by accordions and various instruments such as the clarinet, violin, percussion, and saxophone. Soon the apartment members got up and performed kolo dance moves to the lively songs. They even made me join in and learn some of the basic footwork.

At countdown time, fireworks began to fill the sky, most of which were set off by locals. A few gunshots could also be heard. Although the sound of fireworks could be heard for weeks, it definitely was much larger.

Well past midnight, the group was still eating, drinking, and enjoying each other's company. We were given some rakija made from walnuts - it was quite good, but strong. On the TV, the show still continued. Flipping through the channels, we watched for a few minutes a folk singer who lives in my apartment building. Not used to staying up so late, I thanked my gracious host and friends for a fun evening and headed home.

New Year's Day
The next morning, I went for a walk in newly fallen snow. Except for a solitary set of footprints, no one must have traveled on this "main" road yet this morning. All businesses and kiosks looked closed, except for one small grocery store. A national holiday, everyone had off. Gosh, it was quiet. Back in my cozy apartment, I watched the snow continue to fall and gently swirl around on my apartment rooftop. No movement below. No horses at the hippodrome either.

January 2
Needing to go to the post office to pick up a package, I bundled up and headed out. I was very careful to stay within the narrow tire track, as the snow around it was nearly as high as my boots. On the side streets where I normally traveled to get down to the Senjak "business" area, no tire tracks were found, so I had to blaze my own path. No sidewalks were shoveled and these small streets just don't get plowed. Back on a main street, I and the few other pedestrians walked further onto the road, as that area was at least plowed. With few cars on the road, it was much easier walking than on the sidewalks (which were full of parked cars anyway). The snow was quite light, but not the "snowman" type. Everything from potted plants to cars seemed to have heads of mushrooms, having "grown" at least six fluffy inches in height. Even the peaks of picket fences had accumulated some snow. Too bad I didn't have my camera.

With the post office in sight, I was dismayed to see the security gate pulled over its doors. Although no sign was posted for holiday hours, it was definitely closed. Not only do Serbians have off on New Year's, they also have off the next day as well....
Drat! I would have to make the trip all over tomorrow. This time I'll bring my camera.

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