Bald is Beautiful

When visiting the various churches including Velankanni on our short trip, one could definitely come to this conclusion. Men, women, and children all sported the slick look. A paste made out of sandalwood covered some newly-shaved heads, large handkerchiefs protected others from the sun, and still other heads were proudly sported in all their bare beauty. Christians and HIndus alike carried out this practice, considered to be a huge sacrifice, particularly for Indian women who cherish beautiful, long hair. For some, hair is offered in exchange for certain favors received, or thanks given for one’s answering of prayers. Even if one has no money for which to give (or to buy gifts for the religious deity), a devotee can make this ultimate gift.  Read more about Why Indians Shave Their Heads

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Along the Path to the Tank

The path between the chapel at “Our Lady’s Pond” (site of the first appearance of Mary) and the main Basilica is filled with sand. Some devotees crawl or walk on their knees all or part of this distance as a way of showing gratitude, showing penance, or making a request. Others walk on foot, chanting, fingering rosary beads, and praying. Along the way, sculptural Stations of the Cross and Stations of the Rosary provided reflecting points. Thankfully, this path is kept quite clean and the middle part less crowded, making it easier to embark on the journey. 

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Each According to Their Own Faith

Visitors of all faiths come to the Basilica of Our Lady of Good Health hoping to be cured of medical ailments, resolve fertility issues, and receive blessings. Much as I saw in a Hindu temple in Gujarat, devotees can buy a silver, gold, or tin offering in the shape of the affected body part.. Garlands of flowers to drape over statues of Mary were popular purchases. Some also brought gold chains and saris. Hindus could be seen carrying platters of coconut halves, camphor, bananas, and flowers. In one chapel, they brought in baby coconut trees as an offering for fertility. Of course, money, placed in large locked boxes near the front of the chapels, is always welcomed. As people inch their way up to the altar or while sitting on the crowded floor, ritual actions are made, each according to his/her religion. Even during a Holy Mass, people of various faiths are present; it may not be until the distribution of the Lord’s Supper that one can distinguish the Christians from non-participating others. 

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They All Go to Velankanni

I was one of over three million people descending upon the small (5,000 residents) southern Tamil Nadu town of Velankanni during the nine day festival which just ended on Sept. 8. People from all over India and elsewhere travel by train, plane, boat, car, and foot to reach this famed place called the “Lourdes of the East.” 

During the nine day festival which culminates on Sept 8  - the day of Mary’s birth and also the date when the sailors were saved from the storm - various forms of worship such as Holy Mass, blessings of the sick, and prayers & meditation occur in the basilica and chapels. Depending on the time of day, visitors can hear services in one of nine languages of India, including English.

Mary is reported to have made several appearances in this area. Around 1560, she first appeared to a Hindu milk boy (whose pot of milk overflowed after giving some go the infant Jesus) , then to a lame boy selling buttermilk (who was healed), and then to save Portuguese sailors from a dreadful cyclonic storm. Chapels were then built on these sites and were subsequently expanded.

Visiting Velankanni during the eight-day festival or other special occasions such as Christmas is not for the faint-hearted. It is chaotic, crowded, intense, color - in other words - so India. 


More to come!

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Pampering Ganesh

Finally have some time to write about the photos I've taken in the last week.
India once again is celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi, the birthday of one of the most revered Hindu gods. Now in the last days of the 10 day festival, many Hindu devotees have already worshipped and placed their idol into the nearest body of water.

These photos, taken in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, depict the level of devotion and type of offerings presented to the beloved elephant-headed god. In return, Hindus hope for much prosperity and good fortune for the year ahead.

Previous year's posts recount the making of the clay idols, creation of elaborate floral floats, parade, umbrellas and other items for sale, and many more. Look for additional posts around the beginning of September or end of August.

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Outside the Bedding House

While it's not uncommon to see people snoozing outside in India, this scene made me take a second look. Here we have a man sleeping on some dirty mattresses in front of a door with a bedding house sign above it. I sure hope anything the place sells looks better than those!

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Quite a Handful

Firmly clenching several chickens, this man has just left the poultry selling shop. Are all these mangy-looking chickens destined to land on his home's dinner plates?

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Driving Me Bananas

Tricycle-pulled carts are a common transport for produce sellers and recycling (including the gypsies) folks.  Even on busy roads, you will see these vehicles slowly pedaling their way amongst the chaotic traffic. Transporting produce such as these green bananas would be a lot less risky than a cart of eggs.

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Pilgrimage to Velankanni

On my morning walk, I passed by a few men and women, all dressed in light orange-colored clothing. It was a sign that the pilgrimage to the Velankanni shrine in southern Tamil Nadu had begun. During the last part of August and into September, several thousand devotees from the Chennai region make the trek by foot to the church known as Our Lady of Good Health, site where the Virgin Mary and infant Jesus are said to have appeared to a few locals in the 16th century. Likely, most of those making the 350 km walk (217 mi) in about two weeks are Christian. Once at the site though, they will be joined by those of various faiths seeking for miracles, personal requests, and curiosity.

Those making the trek are helped along the way by those who provide water, food, and shelter.

This photo was taken during last year's walk to the smaller Velankanni church in Besant Nagar, Chennai. I was waiting to join some local Christians who were walking there from their apartment in Mylapore. This weekend, I will join them to the church in southern Tamil Nadu.

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Arranging the Apples

Still early on a Sunday morning and after a rain, the vendors on this Triplicane street are just beginning to set up shop. As in most cities in India, selling tends to happen on the sidewalks - or any place people can plunk down some cardboard or basket. In tropical South India, apples are pricey and not (in my MidWestern opinion) all that good. Still, for those who don't know what good apples taste like or those who simply hunger for one, such neatly arranged apples will be hard to pass up.

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Old Crowded by New

This unassuming looking Art Deco tower built in the 1930s seems to be crowded out by the Express Avenue Mall. Considered to be the second largest in South India, the curved entrance of the mall contrasts sharply to the rectangular, stout clock tower. 

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Happy Birthday, Krishna!

For Hindu devotees, today is one of great joy and celebration, as it marks the birthday of the beloved god Krishna. These blue figurines hope to be purchased and taken home and used in a puja ceremony, which would include singing of Sanskrit hymns. 

Last year, I wrote about the footprints of the child god Krishna that Hindus recreate out of flour and water, leading up to the doorway. 

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Puja Items by Temple

Located in the back entrance of the Kapaleeswarar Temple in Mylapore (Chennai), these vendors were eager to sell their wares to Hindu devotees. Items such as flowers, coconut, betel leaves, and ghee lamps would be purchased by Hindus for performing of puja ceremonies  - ritual offerings to gods to receive blessings. 

One of my color pencil drawings depicts a woman vendor by the temple, largely focusing on stringing flower petals.

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Rawanhathha player, Jodhpur

Rawanhathha player, Jodhpur, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Here is the watercolor I finished today.

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Bunches of Leaves

I love the way these leaves are hung as decorative streamers, zigzagging from one side of the street to the other. Perhaps a special celebration has recently occurred here. Mango leaves are often used as part of Indian celebrations and are considered to be symbols of abundance and fertility.

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Preparing the Banana Leaves

Sitting in the shade of his tiny shop, this man was busy cutting banana leaves into smaller sections. For South Indians, this is the traditional plate, onto which large amounts of rice, dhal, idlies, chutneys, and other favorite dishes are served. Traditional Tamil meals are eaten with the right hand while sitting cross-legged on the floor.

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Hanging Up the Flag

Early in the morning on India's Independence Day, this couple works on hanging up the country's flag.  Note the double-signage on their shop. This past spring, the state of Tamil Nadu required compliance with the law requiring businesses to include Tamil in their signage. Some simply added a second sign or crammed on the Tamil onto the existing sign.

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Red on Green

Amidst the fluttering butterflies, I spotted this insect, whose intense red coloring contrasted sharply with the green leaves. 

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Remembering Gandhi

While walking in Mylapore (Chennai), I spotted this memorial of Gandhi. An extra large kolam along with smaller ones lead up to his statue, with flower petals adorning the top step. Around his neck is a large garland of flowers, a sign of adoration and honor. 

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Happy Independence Day - India Style

August 15, 2011 marks the 64th anniversary of India's independence from British rule. While one could find the customary flags waving in celebration, I found the garlands of flowers to be much more fitting for India's (particularly here in Tamil Nadu) love of flowers.

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Ready to Walk

The roots of banyan trees are fascinating. These appear as if they will suddenly lift out of the ground and walk away.

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Bounty of Bangles

Indian outfits are all about color. It makes sense then, to accessorize them with matching bangles. Some are plain, while others are studded with mirrors and other decorative elements.

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Lone Fisherman

Unlike the group of fishermen working in yesterday's post to remove the fish, this fisherman is working alone. He seems to be in a contemplative mood, deep in thought. Perhaps it was an unproductive fishing trip. 

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Medical Tourism in India

Medical tourism continues to grow in India. Latest estimates that this sector will generate around $108 billion by 2015. Around 850,000 foreigners travel to India for access to inexpensive medical care, for a total of around $1 billion in revenue. Areas including cardiology, joint replacement, orthopedic surgery, transplants, and urology are the top draws for medical tourists from the Middle East, Europe, America, and neighboring countries.

Image source: http://images.paraorkut.com/img/pics/images/d/doctors_stethoscope-13168.jpg

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Picking Out the Fish

After an early morning fishing excursion, these men are picking out the small fish entangled in their nets.

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Of Chilies and Limes

Hanging in front of some homes, businesses, and even on some vehicles (particularly those that are new) is a string of chilies and a whole lime. Known as a nimboo-mirchi, its purpose is to ward off the evil eye cast by neighbors, onlookers, and enemies. Likewise, any ill wishes or feelings of harbored jealousy are said to dissipate. Nimbu-mirchis can also remind us of the sweet moments that are sure to follow more sour events in life.

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Morning Milk Delivery

For many residents of Chennai, milk delivery is still a part of their daily ritual. Some walk to the distribution corners, such as this one at the end of my street. Others, such as the man by the motorcycle, loads large amounts into bags and then delivers the plastic sachets to customers. All this must be done rather quickly in order to beat the South Indian heat.

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Green and Gold- Wisconsin Style

Here's another photo from one of my morning walks by my parents' house in rural Wisconsin. It's even patriotic - that is, the Green & Gold of the state's beloved Packers football team.

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Golden Landscape

The amber fields in Wisconsin offer a warm glow in contrast to the green corn and hay fields. Next week, the tranquility of these fields will be replaced by the chaotic India streets.

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Finishing Touches on Kolam

Finishing Touches on Kolam, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Finished a color pencil drawing of a young woman working on a kolam (rangoli).

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My Mother's Backyard

Gardening and flowers has always been a passion of my mother's. Now that she is retired, she devoted even more time to tending her many gardens and pond nestled around their house in Wisconsin. This coming Tuesday, her efforts will be featured in a garden walk. Congratulations, mom!





- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Theresa, Wisconsin

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Victoria Terminus Interior

After admiring the exterior of the Victoria Terminus Railway building, we ventured inside. As expected, the architecture here was also admirable, filled with lots of details. 

Being as it was only around 8am on Sunday, the platforms weren't as crowded - much to my pleasure. I can't imagine how dense the crowds would be at peak times.

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Peacock Window

The elaborate Victoria Terminus building also has some beautiful windows, such as this one with a peacock design above it. Very appropriate, as the peacock is the national bird of India.

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Victoria Terminus Dome

The Domed structure on the Victoria Terminus building is particularly pretty. Standing on the top is a massive statue of the female figure Progress, holding a spoked wheel and torch.  Note the many gargoyles protruding from the sides, just as in many Gothic cathedrals.

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Victoria Terminus Building, Mumbai

The Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, formerly known as Victoria Terminus, is one of the busiest railway stations in India. Built in 1887 in a Victorian Gothic style, this structure is to be admired for its beauty as well as how it manages to serve so many people every day. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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I'll Have That on Ice

In steamy Mumbai, it's imperative that just-caught fish be cooled down quickly. To transport the fish throughout the city, they are placed in baskets, including these woven ones. Not sure I'd want to carry a loosely woven basket of fish & ice on my head in a hot climate....

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Making Breakfast the Big Way

This man was busy making breakfast in the area of Mumbai where fish were being packed with ice and distributed. No doubt those porters and fishermen had drummed out a healthy appetite. 

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Like Old Times

While visiting a village south of Jodhpur, India, I captured this shot. These two farmers slowly strolled along, engaged in a cordial conversation. Perhaps they were discussing about one of farmers' favorite topics - the weather. Regardless, I really like it how even busy farmers take the time to meet w/ each other while enjoying tea.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Jodhpur, Rajasthan India

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Head of Fish

Early in the morning in Mumbai, you can find people walking at a brisk pace, carrying bowls of fish on their head. The fish have just arrived from the sea and scooped into bowls, along with some ice. It is up to these people to take the fish and get them to destinations around Mumbai in a timely manner. This man was walking towards Victoria Terminus.

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JD Intarsia on Etsy

This week I helped my dad set up his entrepreneurial venture on the website Etsy http://www.etsy.com/shop/jdintarsia . On this site, you will find the intarsia pieces that he and my mom have made. Intarsia reminds me of puzzles made of carefully assembled pieces of different types of wood. All colors are from the natural grains/colors of the actual wood. Take a look!

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Adam's Building

Being that Chennai was a mere fishing village until recent history, it has few buildings that could be considered old. Located in the older Georgetown area of Chennai, this building dates back to 1923. I like the decorative wood trimming (which reminds me of the hanging mango leaves you sometimes see over doorways) and balcony.

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An Electrician's Nightmare

Take a walk through congested areas of most cities of India and you're bound to run into electrical installations or add-ons that are scary - and of dubious legitimacy.

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Taking a Cow by its Horns

Maneuvering your cow through the crowded streets of old Georgetown in Chennai can be rather tricky. 

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