Dubrovnik

Our last destination in Croatia was the touristy town of Dubrovnik. Its Old Town has also been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site and was our area of concentration. At one time this historic town rivaled Venice for sea trade, gaining wealth by trading with Egypt, Syria, Sicily, Spain, France, and later Turkey. Its first pharmacy, opened in 1317, is still operating. In 1667 a devastating earthquake killed over 5,000 citizens. This, coupled with the opening of new trade routes to the east sent the area into slow decline, ending with the conquest of the town by Napoleon in 1806. Dubrovnik later became part of the Habsburg Empire.

With the help of a kind man (who was one of many offering rooms for rent) at the bus station, we were directed to the proper local bus that would take us almost right up to our hotel. Freshened up, we walked down the rather steep hill to Old Dubrovnik. The fragrant scent of blooming jasmine permeated the night air. In front of us, an area was blocked off with police tape. I then spotted a handgun just within the area. Pressed to move on, we continued our walk in the dark past the fancy Hilton hotel and through the Pile Gate.

Old Town at Night
Once inside the Old Town, we were on the beginning of the main pedestrian street called Placa, or Stradun. To our left was the Franciscan monastery and the third-oldest functioning pharmacy in Europe. A sign outside the stone monastery revealed that concerts were frequently held inside. To our right was the huge Onofrio Fountain (1438), its red brick dome contrasting with the dirty grey structure. An orange tree hugged the corner of the city wall and a joining building.

Hungry, we headed towards the fish restaurant recommended to us by the hotel clerk. It was located just off of the Placa in one of the many narrow side streets that contained restaurants, cafés, and shops. After a tasty meal of fish and seafood, we walked through a bit more of the town. Almost right in front of the restaurant was St. Blaise’s Church, an Italian baroque structure built in 1715 as a replacement to an earlier one destroyed in the earthquake. Although the majority of the façade was covered in scaffolding, the large semi-circular stained glass window proudly displayed its brilliant hues. At the end of the pedestrian street was the bell tower, with several mechanical figures “ringing” the bell with regular frequency. Halfway down the tower were two clocks, one in a sun ray-like analog design and a unique one below that, with one square showing the hour in roman numerals and the minutes in traditional numbers.

Nighttime in Dubrovnik was a mixture of quiet, but omnipresent pedestrians enjoying the mild temperatures and relaxing atmosphere. After a pleasant walk around the tastefully lit old town, we took a bus up to our hotel.

Tour of the Old Town
The next morning we headed down the hill after breakfast at the hotel. It was the first overcast day we had experienced while in Croatia. Noticing tiny patches of grey-blue and a struggling sun, I hoped that the clouds would clear. Thankfully, this already began to happen as we entered through the open doors of Pile Gate. To the left on the wall was a map of the Old Town showing the damage done by bombs and grenades from October 1991 to May 1992. A man dressed in Venetian-looking traditional clothing stood on the fountain sides, holding out a box of ribbon souvenirs for sale to the many tourists that would pass by during the day.

One of our first destinations was St. Blaise’s Church. Inside, the colors of the semicircular stained glass window cast a psychedelic pattern on the white columns. The morning light also illuminated the front altar, where a nun was carefully placing gardenias and Easter lily flowers. The atmosphere inside was tranquil and slightly magical with the mixture of color and light. Shortly after we left, the direction of the light changed, no longer revealing the play of color we had witnessed.
Back outside, the number of tourists had already increased. A large number were from two cruise ships that had arrived, its retired largely American passengers descending upon the town in large groups. Also represented were a large number of French, Japanese, and British tourists.

Walking the City Wall
One of the best ways to get a view of the city was to take a walk on top of the city walls. Even though it was 50 Kunas ($9), we decided it was well worth the cost. Built between the 13th and 16th centuries, these massive walls enclose the entire old city for a distance of over 2 km and 25m in height. Scattered around the walls are two round towers, 14 square towers, two corner fortifications, and a large fortress.

It was fun walking around the perimeter, peering below into walled backyards full of flowers and lemon trees. In other areas, the main wall went right up to homes. The scent of jasmine filled the air. From the wall, one also had great views of the Old Port, Lokrum Island, and Fort Bokar. To the north was a high green hill with a cross faintly visible. It was from here that much of the shelling originated. From above, the damage inflicted upon the city by the Yugoslav army in 1991 through militarily senseless shelling was more apparent. Some buildings were shells without roofs, with weeds overtaking the ruins. Bright terracotta tiles revealed their newness, contrasting sharply with the older worn roofs. In a few spots, restoration was currently underway, but the majority of the work has been completed. Although the restorations were done to reflect the original look of the city, I actually felt that the complete makeover lent a slightly artificial feel.

City Tour
After a sandwich (and expensive soda) at a side street café (where we met some colleagues and family), we went for a walk though the streets of Old Dubrovnik. The sun was now quite warm on what turned out to be another clear day. While on the main street, I met two of the young women with whom I had shared a room at the hostel in Split.

We proceeded to the 17th century baroque Assumption of the Virgin Cathedral. I had already taken photos of the large structure from above and its large stone sculptures on the roof and was eager to see the interior. On the right of the entrance was a grotto dedicated to the Virgin Mary, full of bright artificial plastic flowers, neon green vines, and some wood – a most gaudy sight in my opinion. According to the sign, the grotto was built in 1885 and was one of the oldest in Europe. I couldn’t bring myself to photograph it. About the same time, our colleagues also entered the church. We would meet up with them one more time within the contained walls of Old Dubrovnik. Definitely a small place. The three-nave church contained some old paintings in the altars. It also has a large collection of treasures, including gold and silver reliquaries and the skull, arm, and leg of St. Blaise, all plated with gold. The apse was quite magnificent, complete with large rose-colored marble columns, a high chandelier, and a polyptych "The Assumption of the Virgin" (1552) painted by Titian.

One of our next destinations was the 16th century Sponza Palace. Originally it was a customs house, then a bank, and now houses the state archives. Through the large doors was an open courtyard, surrounded by multi-level arched walkways. One room was open to visitors. This was a memorial to the residents who lost their lives in the shelling – up to 200 by some estimates. Black & white photos of mostly men and older boys lined one wall. A large TV played a slide show of the destruction, also largely in black & white. Some of the scenes were quite moving and revealed the level of destruction that actually occurred. Without seeing such footage, it would be easy for visitors to forget that this seemingly intact city was once full of rubble and ruin.

Up the narrow stairs, we made a few pass-throughs of streets parallel to the main street. One street was full of fish restaurants, eagerly waiting for customers. We located the inconspicuous synagogue, the second oldest in Europe, but it was closed.

As we wandered through the tiny streets and city squares, it was apparent how tourist-centered the Old town was. Most businesses consisted of souvenir shops, galleries, ice cream stores, cafés, trendy shops, and restaurants. The open market consisted of souvenirs and a few produce items. Without the tourists flocking to the Old town and the beaches of greater Dubrovnik, I doubt there would be much else contributing to the economy.

Greater Dubrovnik
Having seen most of the Old Town, we hopped a city bus and headed for the beach areas in the Babin Kuk peninsula. The area was rather deserted. Even the shopping area had few visitors, except for an obnoxious dog and its owner. We took a path down to the coast, where two or three people enjoyed the sun. Broken bottles and rubbish littered the area – a great contrast to the rest of Dubrovnik. I guess this area would become more lively and cleaned up during the height of the tourist season. Right now it wasn’t very impressive. With not much to see, we took the bus back to the Old Town.

Golden Hour of Photography
Back in the Old Town, things were much quieter than just a few hours earlier. The tourists from the cruise ships had left. As time wore on, the colors of the light became warmer and more dramatic. I retook some photos of the small Onofrio Fountain, with the pigeons bathing themselves on the upper part of the carved structure. The golden light was especially glorious on the columns of the gothic Rector’s Palace (1441), revealing the intricate carvings on the tops of the columns. A cat lazily snoozed in the sun next to the column, seemingly impervious to the pedestrian traffic and noise around it. The shadows of the archways cast strong shadows against the inner walls. The decorative upper windows of Sponza’s Palace gained an extra level of beauty in the golden light, as did other buildings. It was a good thing I had several memory cards along!

For supper, we ate at one of the fish restaurants on the second row of stairs which we had passed by earlier. They all offered about the same menu and prices, so the decision was made by a flip of a coin. Complimentary drinks including a local sweet desert wine and carafe of white wine was served. Mussels risotto followed a large crisp fresh salad.

After taking some night shots, we took the bus back to the hotel. The next morning after breakfast we took the bus down to the bus station and then off to Kotor, Montenegro, passing through a tiny part of Bosnia on the way.

Tweet

Split, Croatia

Croatia
Later that afternoon we took a modern train to the capital city of Zagreb. Arriving after dark, we had a few hours before the night train would take us to Split. Near the train station was a pretty park with fountains in the middle. Surrounding the park were stately old buildings. Not wanting to venture too far with our luggage, we found an ATM machine and then had pizza at a nearby restaurant. Boarding our couchette train, we prepared for the night ride.

Split
At about 7am, we arrived in Split, the largest Croatian city on the Adriatic Coast. We headed into the nearby Old Town, where we would be staying for the night. Dropping off our luggage, we had breakfast in Trg Republike. Here we admired the beautiful deep red arched buildings across the courtyard, with pigeons fluttering about, chased into the air by children.

Hvar Island
After breakfast we boarded the ferry to Hvar Island. On the top of the ferry we met a young Japanese female solo traveler who we had met earlier that morning at the hostel. The 1 hour 45 minute ride to the island was pleasurable, passing by numerous small islands with sparse, short vegetation. A bus took us to the town of Hvar. This sunny town lies between the protective pine-covered slopes and the clear turquoise waters of the Adriatic. After an enjoyable walk along the seaside promenade and harbor, we found a restaurant and I had a seafood salad – typical of the region. We then began our ascent up stairs and hiked up the hill to the Venetian fortress (1551). On top we were treated to panoramic views of the island and harbor and small chains of islands. A truly beautiful sight.

We then wandered through the narrow streets and strolled along the harbor. The sun was quite intense. Our climb and walks were a perfect excuse for a tasty ice cream cone. Ensuring that we had a seat on the only bus that would take us back to the ferry in time, we waited by the bus area. The ferry ride back to Split was breezy and quite chilly. Most people including me chose to go in the enclosed sections below. The crowded, smoky, and noisy area was less than ideal, but at least it was warm.

Old Split
By the time we arrived in Split, the “golden hour” of photography light had disappeared. At nightfall, monuments including the cathedral were lit up, enabling us to take some night shots. The pavement of the narrow streets reflected the light, with its large stones worn smooth through the ages. Although people walked at a leisurely pace, there was some excitement in the air. For supper, we met at the cathedral and then walked outside the old walls to a restaurant that had been recommended to us as a local place to eat fish at a reasonable price. For some reason, the restaurant was all out of fish and only had two servings of shark left. Disappointed by the waiter’s hasty rude approach and the rather tasteless meal, Sean and Roger went and had pizza at another place. I was tired and went to my hostel.

Split – an Old Roman Palace
The next morning I got up early, hoping to catch the beautiful morning light. Wandering the narrow maze-like streets, I found areas where the sun illuminated old shutters, arches and window tops sprouting pink flowers, and other architectural details. Walking onward, I reached the massive Roman city walls, which reach up to 20 meters (70 feet) high and enclose an area of 38,000 m2 (9 ½ acres). The wall, quite complete in many places, had arched openings near the top, so typical of other Roman architecture such as coliseums and aqueducts. The arches perfectly framed the brilliant clear blue skies already present in this wonderful climate. It is easy to see why Roman emperor Diocletian wanted to build his palace here for retirement in AD 305. Now that palace has been converted into a town, complete with local shops and markets, trendy stores, ATM machines, cafés, meeting squares, and residences for locals and tourists.

Fish Market and Old Town
The Old Town continued outside the original palace walls, with the same narrow streets jutting off at angles (or zigzags) and intersecting at trgs (town squares). Old ladies with black scarves carried fresh bread in cloth bags, likely repeating the same practice every day. Others stopped in the local butcher shop, with the carcasses hanging behind the white-uniformed butcher. Nearby was the fish market, which was just coming to life. On small portable tables a selection of freshly caught fish were neatly placed in plastic crates, separated by kinds. An old-fashioned scale and weights was also squeezed onto the table. Over the next few hours the one-storey fish market and area right outside it would be full of buyers and sellers, only to disappear before noon.

Burek
Meeting Sean and Roger back at the Cathedral, we went to the burek bar labeled as “spiffy” in our Lonely Planet guidebook. We wanted Roger (from Singapore) to have a taste of the Turkish pastry made from layers of thin flaky phyllo dough and filled with feta cheese. Having tasted burek before, I wouldn’t label this burek as “spiffy”, but we ate it along with yogurt and juice. Next to our table was a contrasting-colored wall, with the bottom portion of a large archway leading up to the artificial ceiling. At one time this and adjoining shops must have been part of a larger structure with large brick archways. In the middle of the wall hung a photo of the harbor and Old Split in the background. Fresh snow covered the boats, buildings, and walkway. In the corner the year was written, indicating how rare snow is in this region.

Cathedral
After breakfast we walked back to the Cathedral, once Diocletian’s mausoleum. It was inserted in the corridors and floors of the former palace. On the stairs leading up to the cathedral was a curious stone animal in a sphinx-like pose, seemingly guarding the doors of the church. On top of the animal were several small figures. With both the cathedral and tower charging a fee, we decided we’d get more out of the views afforded by the climb up the tower. Many stairs later (and one low-clearance overhang), we were at the top of the tower. Below us were a series of large bells and gears. One bell’s relief decorations had the date 1700 on it. Through the Corinthian-style column arched openings one had a great view of the town – both Old Split and the sprawling newer town and industrial areas. In the distance one could see the high-rise apartment buildings (likely built during Communist times) that fit the guidebook’s description as one of “stupefying ugliness”. Our attention was focused on the beauty of the collection of terra-cotta roofs, many with laundry already hung out to dry. I actually liked the old, slightly crumbling nature of the old town and am happy to see that it has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We also had great view of the sea and harbor, with its collection of boats ranging from the tiny wooden rowboat to ferries and cruise ships. Satisfied with our absorption of the view, we headed back down the narrow stairs, careful to duck at the appropriate times and paused to let others making their way up to the top.
Old City Tour
Without a firm plan, we wandered through the town, taking more photos as the sun began to cast its rays in the narrow streets. In the many small public squares people gathered to chat and enjoy the sun. We also walked along the edge of the old walls. It was more difficult along the harbor side, as that area was under construction and renovation. Along the east side of the city, stalls were set up selling clothing, bags/purses, souvenirs and other items – none of which interested me. Now at the north side, we saw the massive sculpture of 10th century Slavic religious leader Gregorius of Nin, who fought for the right to perform Mass in Croatian. Its big toe had been polished to a gold shine with people who believe the act brings good luck. Hunched in front of the statue was an old lady with Parkinson’s, shakily cupping her hand requesting donations. Dressed all in black, her snowy white hair contrasted with her tanned wrinkled skin, likely weathered in the sun and difficult times.

For a mid-morning snack we went back to the Trg Republike and tried out some other pastries. Even during our time there, the light played and changed dramatically, illuminating some areas and casting others in deep shadows. We passed by one café several times, each time the same man asking us if we needed a room. Others would do the same near the bus station, uttering the words in an almost hypnotic, repetitive manner. After a sandwich along the wide pedestrian street, we gathered our luggage and headed over to the bus station for our windy (but beautiful) hot bus ride to Dubrovnik.

Tweet

Spring Break Trip through Former Yugoslavia

For spring break 2007 I traveled with Sean (a colleague of mine) and Roger (his friend from Singapore) to three countries of former Yugoslavia – Slovenia, Croatia, and Montenegro. To reach our destinations, we traveled by land, sea, and air.

Ljubljana
On Thursday night we took the night train to Ljubljana in a typical old Serbian couchette. Traveling through Zagreb meant that we had several border crossings to deal with. Around 9:30 we arrived in the capital city. After dropping off our luggage at the hotel, we headed over to the Old Town. Arriving at the Dragon Gate (named after the four dragon sculptures guarding both ends of the gate), we peered into the Ljubljanica River. Old, multi-level buildings, all with terracotta ceramic tile roofs, lined the river. Reflections of the buildings and blossoming trees were vivid in the still water. Weeping willows dangled their still-budding tentacles over the water.

A city of around 265,000, Ljubljana felt very different from Belgrade. Slovenia was once under the control of the Habsburg dynasty, giving the country a much appearance and traditions than Turkish-controlled Serbia. This was especially true in the Old Town region. Bicycles were the preferred mode of transportation for locals, easily navigating through narrow (and pedestrian) streets and across the flat topography. Many of the bikes were of the old-fashioned type, complete with bells and a rear basket. A number of streets in the old section were reserved for pedestrians, with special protruding columns that went down for the occasional car with special permissions. Locals and visitors alike enjoyed the pleasant spring weather, sitting at outdoor cafés and listening to the occasional street musicians.

Outdoor Market
Ljubljana’s green market, located behind a cathedral, had a much less hectic pace than those I’ve frequented in Belgrade. In the pleasant morning sun, shoppers leisurely stopped at the new wooden stalls, inspecting the colorful produce, fresh flowers, decorative bread, and colored Easter eggs. Nearby were stands where one could purchase crafty items and even spotted skins of animals.

Baroque Churches – Good Friday
After a simple lunch, we headed towards the path that would take us up to the city’s castle. Partially intrigued by the unique relief door of St. Nicholas Cathedral (1701), we went inside. Adorning the arched ceiling and dome were beautiful frescoes. Wooden organ pipes framed in black and detailed with gold were found on each side. Light streamed in the numerous, but high windows. We also stopped at the St. Francis Church. The interior, without a dome, was darker than St. Nicholas church, but the ornamentation and arched ceiling was just as beautiful – and perhaps a bit more austere. We listened to the Good Friday service for a few minutes and then quietly left.

Ljubljana Castle
Back in the sunlight, we walked up the path to the castle overlooking the city. Birds sang and spring wildflowers dotted the grassy, forested terrain. Nearing the castle, it was immediately apparent that the 19th century castle had received extensive renovations. Inside, the changes were so drastic that it looked more like a souvenir and restaurant structure than a castle. Nothing was crumbling and everything old seemed to be removed. A glass elevator took visitors up a few levels. One could reach the castle via funicular or even drive up the hill. Quickly walking past the people sunning themselves on the benches in the central court, we paid an entrance fee to walk up the stairs (also new) to the Pentagonal Tower. From here, we had great views of the city – both old and its less attractive Communist-style structures in newer sections. The pink Franciscan church (1660) and its lively circular “square” was especially notable. Overhead a helicopter hovered and swooped. Watching the unusual moves, we realized that there was a person on the outside of the helicopter, presumably doing filming.

Back down in the Old Town, we went to the info center to inquire about possible trips to Bled. A local agency offered organized trips for 50€ which sounded very steep to me. Walking to the local bus station, we instead purchased bus tickets for 6€ and treated ourselves to ice cream. On our first day, the bright sun already gave me a nice burn on my nose and hands. It was a good thing I was wearing long sleeves!

Evening in Ljubljana
At the hotel, we checked in, freshened up, and got ready for the evening. I stayed in the hostel section for 20€ a night and shared the room with 2 other women. Refreshed, we walked back to the Old Town, enjoying more of the architecture, admiring the many contributions of local architect Jože Plečnik. Several times in our strolls through Ljubljana did we cross the Triple Bridge, with the third section added by Plečnik in 1931. The outer two bridges were for pedestrians and the middle one was for vehicles. On the southern side of the bridge was Mestni Trg, with a beautiful baroque Robba Fountain (patterned in 1751 after a fountain in Rome) in front of the Town Hall. The monument in the center of Prešernov Trg was a lively hangout place for young people sporting iPods, musicians, and a rather diverse crowd. Past the Franciscan church were some beautiful Art Nouveau buildings. Further on were some terribly ugly Communist-style buildings.

At suppertime, I was rather surprised to see how quiet the area was. Many stores had already closed. One small mini-market was open, so we picked up some water and snacks for our excursion the following day. As it got dark, we expected to see more monuments and streets lit up; it was not meant to be. Even the EU-style castle remained rather dark. So instead of taking night shots, we wandered through the town, peeking into cafés with curved brick ceilings and “admiring” the graffiti, some of which was humorous or clever.

The next night we ate at a Persian restaurant that we had previously spotted on our walks. The delicately spiced stir-fry was delicious, with tender meat soaked in sauces for over a day. The Iranian hostess was very gracious. The meal was complemented by some spiced tea in tiny glasses. Sean and his friend Roger then took turns with a water pipe, also known as a hookah or chechia.

Bled
After breakfast at the hotel, we took the 10am bus to Bled. After one hour through the rural landscape, we arrived at the popular destination.

Bled Castle
Our first destination was the castle, the oldest one in Slovenia. The pleasant hike up was complemented by bird sounds, wildflowers, and views of the dominating lake. Located on top of a steep stone cliff 100m above the lake, the castle (once the seat of the Bishops of Brixen for 800 years) offered great views on the crystal clear day. This castle had a much more authentic feel to it. Vines snaked their way across the stone walls of the inner courtyard, framing the narrow arched windows. In the courtyard some men practiced sword-fighting “duels”. The ones dressed in costumed seemed to be teaching the young men some moves, likely in preparation for the main tourist season performances. The upper courtyard is comprised of a residence and Gothic castle chapel and the lower courtyard with the castle outbuildings are protected by a high Romanesque wall with a battlemented parapet and Gothic defense tower. Inside the castle was a museum, housing period furniture, armor, clothing, and a collection of ancient coins and other artifacts found in the region. After taking some photos of the panorama including the Julian Alps and the tiny island church, we headed down the path to the lake.

For lunch, we stopped at a restaurant overlooking the lake. Everyone around us was ordering a light-colored cake. We had to taste this light and flaky cream cake – worth every calorie for the specialty of the region.

Lake Bled
The area around Lake Bled was park-like. Flowers were carefully arranged in between large swaths of lush grass. Young and old alike strolled along the paved walkways. Playing the tourist role, we took a gondola out to the tiny island chapel. The half hour we were given was enough time to explore the church and its few small buildings. The church exterior was under restoration, so I didn’t take photos of that view. Inside the small church was a long rope connected to a church bell. Those who rang the bell supposedly get their wish; needless to say, it rang almost continually.

Postojna Cave
On Sunday we took another local bus to the small town of Postojna, home of the famous Postojna Cave. The bus station was silent. Following the directions of a resident, we walked a couple kilometers to the tourist site. Looking across the street I saw a large parking lot full of tour buses and cars. Obviously most people came by this mode. Leading up to the ticket office was a succession of souvenir stores and fast-food restaurants. In line for the first tour of the day, it was immediately apparent that the dominant hair color was grey. Prepared for the constant cool temperatures of the cave (9.5°C or 49°F), we had several layers of clothing. The tour started with a 5.7 km electric train ride, after which time we got off and went into the English tour line. We then walked the remaining 1700m of the tour, pausing to admire the spectacular formations and listen to explanations of what we were seeing. Near the end of the walking tour we saw a tank with a few Proteus anguinus, an indigenous salamander-like creature that is pigment-free and blind. The electric train then took us back to the entrance.

After lunch of a traditional venison meal (in the restaurant full of a grey-haired tour group), we walked back to the bus station. After a few busses heading to Ljubljana didn’t show up (according to the timetable) and not a soul in sight, Roger (Sean’s friend) and I went to a café and inquired about the situation. One young man explained that the busses don’t run as often on holidays, and we might be better off taking a train. Leaving the café, we saw Sean (a colleague of mine) waving in the distance saying that the bus was there and was leaving in minutes. Thankfully, we would arrive in Ljubljana with ample time to gather our luggage and head off to the train station for our night train ride to Split.

Tweet

Anniversary of NATO Bombing in Belgrade

Eight years ago the NATO bombing of Belgrade and other parts of Serbia began. The bombing started on March 24, 1999 and lasted for 78 days. According to various sources, there were between 1,200 and 2,500 fatalities in the country. During this time, damage was done to infrastructures, trade facilities, schools, hospitals, media facilities, and cultural monuments. Most bombs were successfully dropped on carefully selected structures, but there were grave mistakes as well. The destruction of the Chinese Embassy was one example.


Bombing in Belgrade
This weekend I went for a nice long walk along Knez Miloša in Belgrade. This street is also known as Embassy Street for all the embassies located there. As I entered the street from Senjak, the first building I saw was one of the bombed buildings. From the side, it looked like any Communist-era federal building, except that all the windows had been blasted out. Along the front, more significant damage could be seen, including parts that had collapsed. Trees have begun to grow on the collapsed roof. Ragged curtains fluttered in the breeze. Open cupboards revealed stacks of files still unclaimed - did no one need these files?



Further along, past the Canadian, American, and several other embassies was another bombed building. This terra-cotta brick building was significantly more damaged than others along the street. A skyway once connecting buildings across from each other was sliced off. Huge missing sections made it look a bit like a battle scene from Star Wars.

Why are such eyesores (and hazards) still standing? Is it lack of funds to demolish the buildings? Are they still there to act as reminders of the bombing campaign that most Serbians saw as unjust? Or is there another reason.

While walking one fall day with a friend and longtime resident of Belgrade, I saw a building that had one end shaved off. Pat explained that this used to be a TV station. She said that many young workers lost their lives one evening, after being commanded that they come to work or be fired - even though the boss was warned that the building was going to be bombed. Of course the boss wasn't there at the time.

Ecological Damage
About 60 km north of Belgrade lies Novi Sad, the second largest city in Serbia. During the bombing, three giant bridges were destroyed, covering the riverbed with 7,000 tons of debris. Cleared only in 2003, this debris has contributed to the increasing amount of pollution to the Danube River. NATO aircraft also destroyed 18 reservoirs at the Novi Sad refinery and five in Pančevo. This small town, located 10 km from Belgrade, lies right on the Danube River as well. The reservoirs were full of crude, and thousand of tons of its contents were spilled into the river. Chemical plants were also destroyed in Pančevo during the war, polluting the river and killing the fish. Needless to say, people were reluctant to eat fish for some time after.

Pyschological Damage
As with any conflict or war, the local people are invariably affected. At first, people stayed up during the night bombings, hunkered in shelters. Watching the bombing was almost like a fireworks show. Deciding life must go on, many tried to sleep through the noise of the bombs and aircraft. Enrollment at the International School was skeletal, kept alive by a dedicated core of teachers who didn't evacuate. Teachers weren't always sure if the bridge they normally took to get to school would be around the next day, but they adapted. One teacher even delivered a baby - without electricity. The economy, education, medical care, and other areas suffered during the bombing and sanctions, still not fully recovered. Psychologists have reported a rise in treatment of anxiety and post-traumatic stress distorders. That said, Serbians pride themselves in being strong and resilient and are confident that they will rise above this as well.

Tweet

New Identity Cards a Big Problem for Serbia's Unaccounted Roma

This year Serbia introduced new high-tech ID cards with chips and biometric data. According to the new regulation, all citizens over 16 residing in Serbia must have a new ID card by July 2011. The new cards include a chip with personal data on citizenship, residency, and address under an individual citizen number. Biometric data will include a face analysis, fingerprints, signature, digital photo, and digital fingerprint. Sounds pretty high-tech!

For around 400,000 Roma in Serbia, large obstacles are in the way of getting one of the new ID's. Because they live in temporary settlements without addresses, these Roma do not have the permanent place of residence required to register for an ID card. At least two generations of Roma don't even have birth certificates. Without an ID card, the state administration cannot account for them. The lack of an ID also creates large barriers for the Roma in entitlement to social services such as education and health care, as well as getting a job.

Currently, the Serbian authorities are not addressing the issue with any urgency, nor is there any real plan.

Source: The Belgrade Times, March 8, 2007

Tweet

Levoča

History
On our final day of traveling, we chose to go to the picturesque town of Levoča. Situated in the north-western part of Eastern Slovakia about 42 km from our starting point of Tatranská Lomnica. With the frequent bus stops, the trip took about 1 ¼ hours. It was notably warmer here, prompting us to stuff our hats and gloves away. Levoča is a very historical town, originating in the 13th century and built up by German colonialists and dislocated Slavic peasants. However, it was during the 14th and 15th centuries that the town really became prosperous due to its strategic position as Central European trading center on an important trade route of the Hungarian Kingdom. Buildings constructed by the burghers of the royal free town are well-preserved and contribute to the beauty of this old town. A tragic fire in 1550 destroyed most of the original Gothic structures, but the wealthy city rebuilt itself in the Renaissance style now seen. During the 16-18th centuries, the town declined due to aristocratic uprisings (and fighting for trade center rights with Kežmarok) and Turkish expansion.

Renaissance town
Upon entering the old city, the first building we saw was the Town Hall, dating back to the 15th century. The bright white façade glistened against the then-blue skies. Between the windows in the upper floor were rather faint paintings of women, representing symbols of civil virtues: moderation, carefulness, bravery, patience and justice. On the lower level were a series of archways, added in 1615. Next to the Town Hall was a bell-tower (built between 1656-1661) and the Cage of Shame, a 16th century metal cage used to punish minor delinquencies.

Church of St. Jacob
After walking around the town and enjoying the well-preserved Renaissance buildings, we headed over to the Church of St. Jacob, built in the Gothic style at the end of the 14th century. The sign on the iron gate indicated the times of the tours, so we went to a small but pleasant place for a sandwich (too many fatty meals of the Slovakian specialty had been eaten this week). Back at the church at 1pm, it still was locked, so we walked over to the town information center to find out how to get a tour. I wanted to see the famous carved altar by Master Paul of Levoča and wasn’t going to leave until I did! After purchasing the ticket at a building across from the church, we waited for the 2pm slot. The lady opened up the locked gate and let us in, locking the gate after us. Thankfully, she turned on the lights in the church, making it possible to see the beautiful treasures contained inside. After listening to the coin-operated audio commentary, we walked around.

Master Paul’s beautiful main altar made out of limewood was a sight to see. Although it rose 18.62 meters in height, it seemed light and airy, reaching towards the heavens but in an unobtrusive manner. Light from the tall, narrow gothic windows filled the negative spaces in the upper part of the altar. Gold was the dominant color, but colors were used sparingly, particularly in the backgrounds of the outer triptych relief carvings. I wanted to get closer, but the section was roped off at quite a distance. Below the main section was a carving of the Last Supper. To me, it looked like there was a head on the table. Later at a souvenir shop, I asked the shopkeeper about the carving. Puzzled as was her co-worker, she phoned and replied that it was John sleeping. An interesting rendition!
There were many other smaller altars, each dedicated to a saint or part of Jesus’ life. Each altar had a cloth embroidered with purple designs. On the walls were more carvings and some paintings. Olja especially liked the angels and would have loved to have added a few to her collection. The lady was getting impatient, but we were determined to stay until we had seen what we had wanted. We were glad we had waited and finally saw the insides of this marvelous church. Here is a website that gives you a little taste of the church: http://www.chramsvjakuba.sk/en.html

Back to Belgrade
On Saturday morning we packed up our belongings, and waited for the bus to leave at 11:30 am. It was another long bus ride back to Belgrade, with a few stops including the customary wait at the Slovak/Hungarian border. Finally at 2:30 am the taxi dropped me off at my apartment. It had been a fulfilling, but relaxing week.

Tweet

Košice

On Wednesday Olja and I split paths. I took the train to visit my cousin in Košice, the second-largest city in Slovakia and the most important eastern city. Arriving in Košice a couple of hours later than originally planned (bad train connections), Drew was there to greet me at the train station. We walked around the old city. I remarked at how clean the city was – no trash around and an absence of vehicles. Some of the buildings looked recently restored. In fact, the scaffolding had just come off of the main St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral and St. Michael’s chapel. Looking in a brochure, I hardly recognized the small chapel in the photo, all dingy dark gray. Drew explained that the area had undergone significant transformation in recent years, including the streets closed off to vehicles. In front of the church was the “singing fountain”, empty for the winter. We did notice some pansies peeking through the grass. We had a late lunch at a small restaurant he knew, and we both had a meal of fried cheese – not very healthy, but tasty. We went in a few craft shops in search of a handmade-looking doll (I try to collect one from every country I visit), but didn’t see any. I did pick up a few unique corn-husk figures for gifts.

After we had enough walking, we headed to the apartment of Drew and his new wife Andrea. Although it was next to the city center, the building (and surrounding ones) was in the drab Socialist style – such a contrast to the architecture of the city center. Over some delivered pizza, they showed me pictures of their September wedding and some videos. I especially enjoyed learning about the unique local wedding customs, including one in which a plate was shattered and the groom had to sweep up the shards as quickly as possible, hampered somewhat by guests kicking around some of the pieces. For good luck, one piece was kept. The video also contained the tradition of Andrea being “kidnapped” and Drew had to visit local pubs until he found her. Although it wasn’t as good as having been there in person (the airfare was way too costly for just a weekend), I was glad I was able to see the footage and to have spent time with Drew and Andrea.

The next morning we got up at a leisurely hour and had breakfast before heading out. We entered the city’s main attraction – St. Elizabeth’s Cathedral. It is the largest eastern-most Gothic church. It was built around 1308, with additions 200 years later. The exterior was very gothic in appearance, complete with gargoyles. The decorative roof reminded me of a church in Budapest. It was quite dark inside (no lights were on and the narrow windows didn’t let much light in on this overcast day), so it was difficult to see many of the interior architectural details. The double-winged main altar from the 15th century was quite impressive though. In various parts of the church people were praying. At the information center (once the town hall), I purchased a porcelain doll in traditional costume – not exactly what I had wanted, but it would do. After meandering through some pretty side streets (including past an old Synogague and a 16th century municipal prison), we stopped and had some crepes. On the way to the train station, I took photos of the building that had caught my eye as I entered the city, the pseudo-gothic Jakob’s Palace, built in the 19th century. Departing after a nice talk in the park, I headed back to the Tatras, carefully counting the number of stops to ensure I got off at the right destination. Thank goodness the numbers are similar in Slovak and Serbian!

Tweet

Kežmarok

On Tuesday we took a local (old) bus to Kežmarok. Our first destination was the wooden articulated church. Built (1687 and 1717) during the time of Protestants’ religious oppression, this was the first time they were allowed to build their own churches. Because the parish carried the entire costs of the construction, wood was used as the sole construction material – even the nails were wooden. The curved ceiling was painted sky blue with fluffy clouds. Especially impressive were the wooden organ pipes. Next to the wooden church was the New Evangelical Church, built in 1894. Outside, it was a coral shade of pink; inside, it was more open and had an airy feeling. Architectural styles were rather eclectic, including some Islamic Turkish influence in designs. In a side room was a tomb of Imrich Thököly, the leader of an uprising and revered by Hungarians who now place national wreaths over the tomb.

After visiting the two churches, we wandered through the quiet town. Mothers pushed their bundled-up babies in fancy strollers. Old ladies strolled at a leisurely pace. The two-storey Renaissance buildings here were again well-preserved, painted in bright, unique colors. Many had wooden roofs. Old Market street, the oldest street in Kežmarok, had houses dating back to the 13th century and were typical regional craftsmen’s homes. One of the homes was now a museum, containing beautiful period furniture and other items of the time. My favorite were the pieces with inlaid wood. Also of interest was the town hall, rebuilt between 1541-1555 in the Renaissance style and later in 1779 after a fire. Its clock tower and spire reminded me of those on Serbian churches.

At the end of the main street was the Kežmarok castle, built in 1462 as a gothic urban fortress. It was built directly inside the town to protect it against its potential enemies. Today it is a museum – which unfortunately was closed (or at least apparently so) when we checked it twice.

Strážky Castle
Back at the bus station, we waited for the local bus to the Strážky castle, one of the most important cultural monuments of the Spiš region. A walk through an Aldi-like grocery store broke up some of that time, but the wait still was long. Finally we were on the bus and reached our destination. The tour began on the hour, so we had a bit of time to kill before entering the castle converted into a Renaissance mansion in the 16th century. Meanwhile, I walked across the street and took some pictures of the late-Gothic church of St. Anna and the attractive Gothic-Renaissance belfry. I then took a quick stroll through the English park-like grounds. Our “guide” gave Olja an English copy of some information on the collection, and turned on the lights in the room ahead of us, waited, and then turned off the lights. The mansion was filled with portraits of aristocracy, most in oil but some in pastel. Although some were disproportional (or had other “mistakes) and others the subject was downright homely, I was fascinated by the detail to the clothing and jewelry. Since 1962 the family of count Eduard Mednyanszky lived here. A large portion of the paintings in the building were done by their talented son Ladislav – the definite highlight of the tour. Olja asked the “guide” a few questions about Ladislav and other basic questions, but received no answers – not a word. Perhaps she was just a fill-in. After a long wait for the bus back to Kežmarok, we made a visit to a second grocery store to kill time before the next bus, and arrived back in Lomnica and walked back to the hotel in the dark.

Tweet

High Tatras Village: Starý Smokevec

Saving museum towns for other days, Starý Smokevec was a logical visit for a Monday. When I awoke, the sky was bright and blue, providing a clear view of the mountains. Within a short time, it became overcast, shrouding the mountains with thick clouds for most of the day. The tram to Smokevec was filled with skiers and their gear, who got off at one of the skiing stops prior to Smokevec or at its final destination and its cableway leading up to Hrebienok mountain. Starý Smokevec is the oldest of the Tatra ski villages (about 100 years old) and contained a mixture of old and new hotels, including the luxurious Grand Hotel built in 1903.

Walking around, we noticed quite a bit of activity going on, with people walking about and preparing to go up the mountain. At the information center, we inquired about visiting the waterfall up in the mountain. We decided against it after hearing that reaching it would take a 2 hour hike with good boots and ski insurance. Instead we meandered around the town, admiring some of the pretty architecture, particularly the wooden ornamentation on buildings. I especially liked some of the old, deserted buildings, imagining how beautiful they were at one time. We peeked in two small churches and visited numerous souvenir shops, which contained a mixture of fairly nice handicraft items amidst tacky souvenirs. Once again, we had the national Slovak dish at a pleasant restaurant. After stopping for tea at a smart-looking café in Tatranská Lomnica, we tried out the sauna at our hotel. It was so hot that it was difficult to stay inside for very long. I have decided that I’m not a sauna-type person.

Tweet

Poprad and Spišská Sobota

Poprad
The following morning, we took the modern tram to Poprad, a town about 18 km from Tatranská Lomnica. With a population of about 55,000, it is known as the gateway to the Tatras. We found the streets of Poprad rather deserted and most everything was closed – shops, museums, tourist places, and churches (for viewing). I did hear a Sunday service being conducted at the St. Egidius Church (13th century early Gothic), so we did not go in to admire its medieval wall paintings.

Spišská Sobota
With not much to do in Poprad, we walked to the adjoining town of Spišská Sobota. On our way, we passed by a river with ducks (one of the few wildlife we saw) and the huge Aqua Park. Snow had nearly disappeared, with only piles remaining. As we entered Spišská Sobota, the architecture and atmosphere changed, to a peaceful reminiscence of a medieval town. In the 13th century, Spišská Sobota was an important trade center and was populated by German immigrants. In the 1500’s it was a center of trade, crafts, and culture. Since 1950 it has been a municipal cultural reserve. Many gothic, renaissance, and baroque homes have been preserved, painted in bright, varied colors. Many of the doors were arched, some with decorative wood designs.

Walking the cobblestone street was very pleasant, passing by old men riding bicycles. Its main church, St. Jacob (built 1273 and remodeled in1464) was unfortunately closed. Only after visiting the church in Levoča did we realize that we missed seeing one of Master Paul’s gorgeous carved altars. Other architectural items of interest in the town included a 16th century chapel and a renaissance belfry with sgrafitto on top. For lunch, we ate at a restaurant in one of the restored renaissance buildings with dark carved ceiling beams and enjoyed a satisfying meal of beef goulash with “dumplings”, which looked more like small slices of crustless bread. Completing our leisurely walk of the old town, we headed back to Poprad and took a tram back to the mountains.

Tweet

Slovakia Travels - Tatranská Lomnica

For our winter break, Olja and I decided to travel to Slovakia. Since it was organized by a tour group, she was able to get a visa without the normal hassle. Serbians need a visa for nearly every country in the world! The tour bus left Belgrade on Friday at about 8pm and slowly made its way (also delayed for a while at the border crossings) to the High Tatras mountains, dropping us off at our hotel at about 10:30 the next morning. Our hotel room had a great view of the eastern part of the mountain range, including the third highest peak, Lomnický Štít (2,654 m). After a shower we were prepared to begin our exploration of the region. Wearing boots for only the second time this winter (it snowed for one day in Belgrade) we walked the 2+ kilometers to the village of Tatranská Lomnica. Although the village had its share of hotels catering to the many skiers and snowboarders, Lomnica also had a nice park, cozy restaurants and cafés, little shops, and homes, giving it a more authentic feel than some of the other villages in the High Tatras. Here we exchanged money and had a hearty Slovakian meal of Bryndzové halušky, potato dumplings with sheep cheese and sprinkled with bits of bacon.

With our tummies full, we went visited some shops, looked around the town, got information about train travel times for the next day, and then took a little walk on a path leading out of the village. The sky was a deep blue, contrasting with the stark white of the peaked Tatra mountains before us. I took some photos of the landscape, knowing that such clear days might be rare. Who knows how many skiers were up there enjoying the slopes. Although some areas were nicely populated with trees (lots of spruce), there were large areas that were barren of trees. Only the stubs and uprooted stumps remained, a vivid reminder of the strong winds that decimated an estimated 12-14,000 hectars of forest - between 1.5 and 3 million cubic meters of timber in November of 2004. And to think that the winds only lasted about 3 hours!

Tweet

Serbia's Recent Elections, Kosovo, and the EU

Elections
At the end of January, elections were held in Serbia, the first time since the split with Montenegro. The turnout was higher than anticipated – around 60%. International watchgroups were very satisfied with the voting process and procedures, finding no concerns of irregularities.

In the end, the Serbian National Party gained the most votes – 28.5%. As you may recall, its leader, Vojislav Seselj, is currently in The Hague on trial for war crimes, making news a few months ago after he went on a hunger strike. The two Democratic parties came in second and third, gaining 22.8% and 16.3% respectively. The former is lead by President Boris Tadic and Prime Minister Vojslav Kostunica leads the latter. Although I find it a bit confusing, this is how I understand it. Since the Serbian National Party has indicated its refusal to cooperate and form a consensus with another party, it will remain a minority party without major power. It is expected that the two Democratic parties will begin negotiations, reach an agreement, and work together, thus gaining a majority control. However, other combinations might eventually take place, including a change of President, Prime Minister, or both.

Pending Issues
There are two large issues in the forefront. One is Kosovo. Tadic, seen as more pro-Western and pro-EU, has indicated a willingness to meet with the UN envoy and discuss the plan proposed by UN negotiator Martti Ahtisaari. Kostunica, on the other hand, has refused to meet the envoy for any discussions. Kostunica’s Democratic Party of Serbia (DSS) is opposed to any form of independence of Kosovo. In general, the Serbian population would like to see Kosovo remain a part of Serbia, particularly due to its cultural and religious significance to Serbs. Holding fast to these beliefs without appearing inflexible with the EU and UN is the trick.
Serbia’s possible entry talks into the EU is the other issue influencing decisions and actions. How Serbia reacts to the Kosovo negotiations and actions (or inactions) towards the capture and extradition of war criminals such as Mladic are huge factors. The European Union is seeking a formation of a new Belgrade government as soon as possible, hoping that it will proceed in a cooperative manner towards internationalism and on the way to the EU.

Now that the Ahtisaari Plan has been announced, it will be interesting to see what steps are taken, including any negotiations. The plan does not call for outright independence of Kosovo, but gives it substantial autonomy. For example, Kosovo would have the right to make treaties, apply for membership to international organizations, and its own flag and constitution. There would be protection zones around many centuries-old Serb Orthodox religious sites. Other concessions favoring Serbia include financing of Serb areas, self-government for Serbs, considerable control over the running of local police, and the right to certain direct links with Belgrade. It also says that Kosovo may not join with Albania, forming a Greater Albania. Concerns amongst the Serbs still living in Kosovo are high. The many Serb refugees who have fled Kosovo don’t see much chance or returning. Worldwide, people wonder what precedent this might play for other groups/areas wanting independence, including parts of Russia and Spain.

Time will only tell. I hope that both Kosovo Albanians and Serbs reach a consensus that is tolerable for both sides, with conflicts resolved peacefully in negotiations. Destabilizing the region is not in the interest of anyone.

Tweet

Rakija - Drink of the Serbs

Popular throughout the Balkans, rakija is a hard liquor similar to brandy and vodka. It is made by distilling fermented fruit. Typical alcohol content is about 40%, but homemade rakija is sometimes up to 60% alcohol. Rakija is considered the national drink in countries making up former Yugoslavia as well as Bulgaria and Hungary. Its most common form, šlivovitz, is made from plums. Grapes are often used in Bulgaria and Montenegro. Other fruits used include peaches, apricots, mulberries, pears, apples, figs, and quinces. In a special type of rakija known as Vilijamovka, a small pear is pressed through the bottleneck into the bottle, continuing to grow on the tree. After harvested, rakija is then poured into the bottle, gradually acquiring the special aroma and taste. Sometimes plum and grape rakija includes other ingredients such as herbs, honey, sour cherries, and walnuts.


For an added aroma and golden color, the normally colorless drink is kept is wooden barrels. Rakija is served in special small glasses holding from .3 to .5 dl., with the bottom of the glass wider at the bottom and tapering at the top.

The first alcohol was distilled by Arabic doctors in the 10th and 11th centuries, with Europeans readily adopting the drink. It was prescribed as an excellent medication during the Middle Ages. It is thought that rakija arrived in Serbia during the arrival of the Turks in the 14th and 15th centuries. Others date its regional origins back to the time when Serbs arrived as Old Slavs to the region from their original homeland, capitalizing upon the available vineyards planted by ancient Greeks and Romans.

No country produces more šlivovitz plum rakija than Serbia. About 70% of plums in the region (average 424,300 tons per year) goes into šlivovitz. Sometimes this brandy is distilled twice, called prepečenica and with an alcohol content exceeding 60%. It typically is made from trees older than 20 years. The type of plum known as pozegaca used originally came from Asia, but was brought to Serbia from Hungary. In Serbia, particularly in the regions of Valjevo, Kraljevo, and Èaèak, growing conditions are ideal, producing rakija unequalled in any area. The fruit skin is dark blue, it contains much more meat and sweet juice than other plum varieties, and a specific aroma derived from the skin and pit all contribute to its unique taste.

Rakija is part of Serbian culture. It is part of many special occasions, including baptisms, marriages, joining of the army, and visiting of friends. At funerals, custom demands that a bottle of rakija be left on the grave of the deceased who liked to drink it, or at least to sprinkle a drop or two during the memorial service for peace of the person’s soul. For some peasants, a flask of rakija is one’s only luggage. Poor peasants many even offer the village doctor, policeman, judge, tax collector, or minister a flask of rakija as a gift of payment. Many folk songs have been composed during rakija production. Apart from Russian vodka, šlivovitz, according to the book “Guide to the Serbian Mentality”, is the only drink that prompts Serb farmers to piously cross themselves before drinking. I’ve seen bottles of rakija for sale at monasteries, right next to iconography paintings.
Although rakija is consumed in villages and cities alike, most of my encounters with the drink occurred in the small village of Sirogojno. At the ethno village, an old-fashioned cooker and distiller was part of the museum’s artifacts display, along with large wooden barrels for storage. Outside the local church, the “chaffeur” of a horse-drawn carriage merrily sipped the clear drink while waiting for the wedding party. Others joined in after the wedding, alternating drinks with cigarettes. At the home of a local couple, the husband proudly offered his guests some of his 7-year old šlivovitz after giving us a tour of his rakija-making facility. Read more on my website: http://homepage.mac.com/melissaenderle/Serbia/sirogojno.htm and http://melissaenderle.blogspot.com/2006/11/sirogojno-october-2006.html

Tweet

Internet and Cell Phone Use in Serbia

Cell Phones in Serbia
For the first seven months I was in Serbia, I resisted getting a cell phone. I didn't see it as a "must-have" and certainly did not base my self-worth or importance on having one. Finally I succumbed and bought one. Once the phone itself was paid for, I found that costs were quite low. There were no monthly fees and a $15 card lasted my text messaging (I had to learn how to do that on a phone) and calls for about 3 months. Try to do that in the US! The phone card minutes method also ensures that you cannot go over your purchased amount, hence no huge cost surprises from chatty teens’ phones. You can even send a text message to the parking service, taking money off your phone card instead of plugging a meter. The reasonable rates and ease of adding minutes, and capped spending amounts make owning a phone commonplace.
Everyone from gradeschoolers to grannies in villages seems to have one. In the congested busses where you barely have room to stand, people still manage to answer a call or send the ubiquitous text message. As soon as the plane lands, everyone whips out their phones and makes a call – as if it’s a mandatory thing. According to a recent newspaper article, Serbia has 5.2 million mobile phone users out of a population of 7.5 million.

Internet Usage
Contrast that to Internet usage. According to 2006 statistics, only 24% of Serbians use the Internet – or about 1.5 million people. This rate is below former Yugoslav republics such as Slovenia (55.6%), Croatia (32%), and Macedonia (27%). It is ahead of Bosnia (20%), Montenegro (16%), and Albania (3%). Compare that to Sweden and Portugal, where about 75% of citizens use the Internet. Connectivity in rural areas is rare (about 12%) and only 17% of women use the Internet. Of those connected, about 77% are still using a dial-up connection. Even here in Belgrade, there are areas of the city where dial-up is the only option. Thankfully I have a cable modem connection, although its speeds are nothing to brag about. Proposed solutions include liberalizing the telecommunications market, government reaching out to threatened social groups, and an improved legislative framework that will encourage Internet usage through various measures. A healthy dose of competition would certainly help – that and some training in western customer service standards/expectations.

I also found the types of Internet usage interesting. Top three types of sites accessed include: music, education, and science. Religion, pornography, and politics nearly tied for the lowest rank.

Tweet

Slava - More than a Party

Here in Serbia, the season of Slavas is beginning. In the next month or so, most Serbs will attend some one else's Slava or their own, based on the birthday of their family's patron saint. This article was written by a friend of mine, Pat Andjelkovic, an American living in Serbia for many years.

CorD December Column
Pat Andjelkovic Notes from the Big Plum


IT’S NOT JUST ANOTHER PARTY

A slava, (and I’ll add an “s” on occasion hereafter to make it plural) or celebration of a family's saint's day, is a major religious holiday for Orthodox Serbs. Slavas occur all year long, but many take place in the winter months. Although some families invite only guests whose slavas they themselves attend, someone may invite you, so it’s good to know a little something. First of all, how did they come to be?
Centuries ago every Serbian clan had its own household god. As Christianity spread, several attempts were made to convert the Serbs. It was only in the thirteenth century that Rastko Nemanjić, later canonized as Saint Sava, created the Serbian Orthodox Church. He sent out messengers to replace each family's household god with major Christian saints. In the fourteenth century the Turks conquered Serbia, taking complete control for 500 years. Many Serbs converted to Islam to save their lives or to ascend social or political ranks. Orthodox Serbs secretly carried on their Christian customs. After the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, Serbs celebrated their slavas freely for a short while until communism again discouraged religion. As under the Turkish occupation, many continued to observe their personal slava. Nowadays there are no more restrictions.
But just how is a slava celebrated? Although there are differences from family to family, what follows is a traditional explanation.
Slavas are celebrated for three days and families must be ready to welcome guests on all three days, since during slava, an Orthodox home is considered a church, and no one should be turned away. In earlier times, everyone in a particular village knew whose slava fell on which day and automatically came for the celebration. Nowadays it is customary for a family member to extend verbal invitations usually only once and simply remind guests from year to year. If there has been a death in the family during the year, slava must still be observed, but usually only by family members. Because slavas are religious occasions, traditionally no music is played.
Customarily a slava takes place in the father's home or in the grandfather's if he is still alive. Nowadays if there is more than one grown son in a family having a separate household, each son may celebrate in his own home. Slavas are passed from father to son. When a woman marries, she adopts the slava of her husband. (Feminists may think that a woman shouldn't have to adopt her husband's slava, but most women here feel that they have two slavas to their husband's one!)
During the days before slava, housewives prepare great quantities of food, sparing no expense, whereas other families may choose to prepare lighter fare. Some slavas are “lean” slavas and no dairy products or meat are served. Two foods are traditional. The first is the slavski kolač or slava cake, a large, brioche-type bread decorated with salt and flour Orthodox crosses. The other is žito, a confection made of wheat berry, cinnamon, sugar, and nutmeg. But don't look for žito at every slava. There are certain saints' days where no žito is served, because some saints are still considered to be alive. In this instance, slatko, cooked, whole fruit like cherries or strawberries in thick syrup is served in place of žito to welcome guests.
On the first day of slava, family members greet each other with 'Srećna slava' or 'Happy Saint's Day'. No unnecessary work such as laundry, sewing, or ironing is done that day. The head of the family lights a tall beeswax candle, taking great care that the flame not be extinguished until they go to bed that evening. Beside the candle are the slavski kolač, žito or slatko, and a glass of red wine.
Then they wait for the priest to come to perform the slava ritual and bless the house. When the priest arrives, the family gathers in front of the candle for the priest to perform a small ceremony and cut the slavski kolač. (Families may take their slavski kolač to the church instead to be cut if they so wish.) Afterwards, he proceeds to bless the house by walking through its rooms swinging his brass censer of fragrant incense.
Guests usually arrive around seven in the evening, bringing flowers or wine, the only true slava gifts, and greet the family with "Srećna slava". Then the lady of the house or eldest daughter offers a tray of žito or slatko. Each guest must partake of the žito or slatko. Some families serve food buffet style while others choose to have a sit-down dinner. Guests may stay all evening or excuse themselves after an hour or so. If you choose the latter, make sure you tell your host you are going to another slava, otherwise it wouldn’t be polite to leave so soon. In former times on more popular saints' days, streets were filled with people traveling from one slava to another, especially on Sveti (Saint) Nikola, December 19th. People joke that half of Belgrade has a Sveti Nikola slava and the other half attends!
Remember: A slava is not just another party. In fact, it is not a party at all, but rather the observation of a religious tradition and it’s an honor to have been invited to someone’s slava. It shows that your host has accepted you and wishes to share with you the customs of this significant holiday.

Tweet

Sirogojno - October 2006

Sirogojno
For breakfast, we were treated with a large spread of traditional local cuisine. Homemade yogurt came in cute little ceramic round pots. Fresh bread, kajmak (spreadable slightly salty rich cream), local white cheese, and užika pršut (hard, smoked beef slices) were enough to satisfy all. We then went and began taking photos and touring the ethno museum grounds. Since I was the only one who had been there before, I became the tour guide.

Sweater shopping was the next item on the agenda. We started by going to the local ladies who had booths at the edge of the museum grounds. Pat commented that the quality seemed to have improved, but said she already had two sweaters. We then walked down to the Sirogojno sweater shop where they sell sweaters/jackets made locally but with Icelandic wool. The quality of the wool is much better and the knitting is more sophisticated as well – as is the price. I spotted the color and style I had eyed previously and decided it was time to buy. Nancy and Olja also found ones to suit their personalities. After buying a few accessories back at the local ladies booths (souvenir shajkaca hats, woven hats & mittens), we then put our purchases in the car trunk.

At the local church, a wedding celebration was in process. Outside, a brass band boldly played their upbeat tunes. A decorated horse-drawn carriage was waiting, presumably for the bride and groom. The carriage driver had a bottle of rakija, which he was sharing with some older men wearing shajkacas (traditional hats of the region). All seemed to be having a fun time. The wedding celebration continued late into the night at the local hall, playing live music. Pat explained that sometimes village weddings last several days.

For lunch we met up with Pat’s son and girlfriend who were vacationing in nearby Zlatibor. She also bought a sweater – what a good morning the shop had! Initially the place was quite crowded (some school groups who had toured the ethno museum were also eating) but we managed to set up two tables to accommodate all of us. I left a bit early in hopes of meeting Zorica so we could make plans for my upcoming exhibition at the ethno museum. At the church, a memorial service was being held. That’s quite a bit in one day for such a little church and village!

Walk in the Village
Later on, we went for a walk in the main village of Sirogojno. Since it’s very small, getting lost is not a problem. Spotting some apples on the grass next to the road, we picked up a few to eat – small and crunchy, and definitely natural. Shortly thereafter, the elderly woman who lived there came out, picking some off the tree and offering us some. Nancy was surprised at the woman’s generosity, presuming instead that the lady might have shooed us away for picking the apples that had fallen by the road. Another example of local kindness. We headed towards the home of the couple that I had met my first time in the area. In April I returned, giving the wife a printout of the painting I made of her. I hoped they would be around so I could say hi. The husband was outside and recognized me, welcoming us and insisting that we come in for a bit. He proudly showed Nancy how he made rakija, even though the plum crop this year was too poor to make any of the beloved drink. Back inside the house, the wife pulled out the print I had made for her and warmly welcomed me as if I was a relative. It was gratifying to see how such a small gift as the print was appreciated. She then proceeded to make the Turkish coffee and bring the honey, spoons, and water glasses. The husband brought some 7-yr old rakija for us to try. As none of us are real drinkers, we were a bit hesitant, but you really can’t refuse. To everyone’s surprise, the rakija was very smooth and not that strong. As soon as the tiny glass was finished, he proceeded to fill it up again. We then had the spoonful of honey, followed by a drink of water. Turkish coffee topped it off. Thanking them for their hospitality, we headed back to our cabin. I’m so glad that Nancy was able to experience local people and their genuineness.

Serious Card-Playing
With the ethno restaurant closed and the only store in town closed, we decided to head down to the town restaurant, buy a bottle of wine, and play some mean cards – UNO. We had a lot of laughs and turned a simple kid’s game into one of competition. I wonder what the waiter thought. When it was time for closing, we headed back to the cottage, at which time Nancy and Pat did their beauty treatment. It was fun watching them.

Sunday - Last Day :(
Early the next morning, Pat and I went for a walk and took some photos. The early morning light was beautiful – casting warm tones over the fall hued landscape. We also experimented with the placement of a goat skull we found for some still-life shots. After breakfast, we modeled our sweaters, first in front of the cabin and then by the museum buildings, much like they did in the Sirogojno sweater catalog. It was fun. Nancy and I met Zorica, who gave Nancy a copy of the book she wrote about the local church and gave her a list of some other sources of Serbian art and architecture. We then decided that my art exhibition would occur in June when my parents come, so we’ll have some planning and work to do on that. I’m glad my parents will be able to see the exhibition.

With the rental car due back in Belgrade, we reluctantly had to leave. Between the wonderful company, beautiful sights (natural and man-made), and gorgeous weather, it was a perfect 4-day weekend.

Tweet

October Trip to Northern Serbia

As I begin writing this, I look outside the patio door of my apartment. It is a dismal, grey, day with intermittent rain. The temperature is a bit warmer than Friday (when it snowed for the school’s annual Halloween event), but cool enough to want to stay inside. What a huge difference a week made! During much of our journey to northern Serbia and down to the western mountain village of Sirogojno, we wore lighter layers – and sometimes no jacket at all!

Having secured a rental car, things would be much easier and faster to reach our destinations. This would also give us flexibility, spending as much time as we cared for a particular town. On the bright October morning of Thursday the 26th, we headed northward to the region known as Vojvodina. Driving was Pat, a retired teacher of ISB, an American who married a Serbian and has lived here for around 30 years. Olja, a Serbian teacher at school and a common traveling partner of mine, was eager to join us. Nancy Lamers, a former art education professor (and elementary art teacher) of mine came to visit me, and she was also eager to see areas of Serbia outside the city of Belgrade.

As we headed out of Belgrade, the land became flatter and predominantly rural. All the farmers seemed out in their fields, harvesting corn, tying up stalks, or plowing the dark earth. Small tractors hauled wooden wagons filled with field corn, glowing even more yellow in the bright fall sun. Along the banks and sometimes in the field, controlled fires were lit, burning brush and presumably unwanted remnants of cornstalks.

Krušedol Monastery
Our first stop was the monastery of Krušedol, located in the Fruška Gora region south of Sremsi Karlovci. Although originally built in 1509, the current Baroque style dates back to the early 18th century after Turks seriously damaged the structure in 1716. The large white church dominated the center of the rather small grounds. In one corner men were working on a construction project, with even the bearded monk in his black robes carrying 2x4’s to the site. Amongst the religious jewelry, icon reproductions, and candles, Nancy spotted some bottles of rakija produced by the monastery and decided to purchase a bottle of the “holy” alcohol as souvenir.

As we entered the church, I saw some older-looking frescoes in the arched entryway. A few frescoes remain from the 16th century, but most date back to the 18th century. Light from narrow windows streamed in, illuminating portions of the frescoes covering the walls and some of the iconostasis on wood paneling. A beautiful wooden carved casket-like box caught my eye, perhaps containing the remains of Branković founding family member. Much of the treasury of once in the church was plundered by the Croatian Nazis in WWII, with the remains now in Belgrade.

We then took a quick tour of the grounds. While taking photos of the outer part of the church and monastery buildings we could see the head of a nun pop her head out once in a while. In one open room we could see empty cobs of corn with a large woven basket outside the door. The bottom portion of a wooden wagon was also intriguing, its wooden wheels casting long shadows underneath the arches. Just as we got into the car, a large tour bus pulled up, a good signal that we should be on our way.

Sremski Karlovci
Just 11 km from our lunchtime destination, we decided to stop at Sremski Karlovci, an attractive town with an array of buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries with a 1770 marble fountain as its centerpiece. We peeked inside the baroque Orthodox cathedral, but its flooring was undergoing renovation and so we were unable to enter. In the center of the square, children and adults climbed up the stairs to get water pouring from the spouts of the four lions on the fountain. After taking some photos of the high school (1791) with its combination of traditional Serbian and Secessionist styles, we found some poppyseed pastry for a snack and headed onward.

Novi Sad
Our first stop in Novi Sad was the Petrovaradin Fortress. Little remains of the original fortress and much of what is seen dates back from the early 18th century. Walking towards the famous clocktower, we were greeted by tacky red stuffed heart pillows and shocking pink poodle stuffed animals. What an untapped market these places could have! Sadly, most of the buildings and galleries above the fortress were closed for renovation. Since it was nice out, we enjoyed a stroll around the outer perimeter overlooking the Danube River.

Finding a parking space in the main part of Novi Sad, Pat used her cell phone to fill up the “meter” – a very convenient, modern method. Already hungry, we didn’t spend too much time looking around. Pat pointed out a sign in front of a tattoo parlor she had seen a week earlier – “House of Pain”. I’m not sure if I would have named my business that phrase! With most of the cafes only serving drinks and/or full of customers, we settled on a small place and ordered pljeskavica, sort of like a hamburger made from a mixture of pork, beef and lamb, sprinkled with spices and grilled with onion.

Palić
Prior to reaching our final destination for the day, we made a short stop at Lake Palić. Pat explained that teachers and students from ISB would make an annual trip up to here as a way of bonding and relaxing. The area started as a spa in the mid 19th century and then developed into a popular health resort and vacation spot. As we walked along the park sidewalk, we saw people rollerblading, riding bikes, lazily strolling along, and of course – talking on their cell phones. Sports equipment and boats, including paddleboats could be rented. Set back from the lake one could see a series of small, but attractive hotels and restaurants – making it an attractive relaxation spot. The autumn sunset cast a warm glow over the still-beautiful flowers and changing leaves. After Nancy’s first Turkish coffee at a restaurant, the sun disappeared over the water, signaling it was time to leave for Subotica.

Subotica
Now just a short distance from the Hungarian border, we were at our nighttime destination. We decided to stay at Hotel Patria, not so much for its accommodations (like many Serbian hotels, it had that “depressed in-need-of-rennovation-and-attention” look), but because it had parking and was centrally located. Following recommendations of the receptionist, we walked past the McDonalds and up some stairs to a cozy authentic restaurant. It was well after 7pm and still no one else was there. They gave us some menus that had English translations, some of which were quite amusing, such as horse d’ouvres. While eating, a pianist and violinist provided wonderful ambiance. After around 9pm more people began filling the tables. Taking advantage of the unseasonably warm evening, we strolled around the main city section before heading back to the hotel for the night.

I was looking forward to our next morning – taking a tour of all the beautiful Art Nouveau and Secessionist architecture. Once again, the weather was beautiful. Most signage was in both Serbian and Hungarian, a strong indication of its proximity to current Hungary and long domination by Hungarian rulers. Immediately apparent was the number of people – both young and old – riding bicycles. The extremely flatness of the city made it a perfect method of transportation, lazily meandering through the narrow streets. The pace here felt much slower than in Belgrade. What a beautiful place to stop and read the newspaper or plop down your sack of potatoes and gossip with the neighbors!

We headed towards the large Town Hall, a magnificent reddish building in the Hungarian Art Nouveau Style built between 1908-10. Every section – from top to bottom – was oozing with different details. One of the guidebooks described it as “an architectural mishmash of styles that could be said to verge on the tasteless”. Having liked it very much, I would have to disagree. Needless to say, a lot of photos were taken. I especially liked the corner gargoyle-like figures, with curls flowing from its head as in flames. Even the rain gutters and snow stoppers on the roof were decorative. At one corner was the McDonalds, tastefully adopting its window signage and interior decoration to the same style. Curious to see the inside of such a structure, the three photographers (Nancy, Pat, and I) went inside, hoping at least some area was open for viewing. In contrast to the deep red and yellows of the outside, the interior was dominated by cooler hues of green, turquoise and white. Everything looked freshly painted, with stenciled designs and patterns around each column and edge very crisp and colorful. I was glad to see that such a city treasure was receiving the monetary attention towards preservation. True to Art Nouveau tendencies, the stairway was a patterned symphony of curvy wavy metalwork instead of straight bars. In a higher floor I could even smell fresh paint, a sign that some work was really new. We got as far as the top floor, when Pat stopped us saying that there was a forbidden sign on the door, as it was some sort of military function.

Nearby was the central square – Trg Slobode. A large blue fountain constructed of famous Zsolnai ceramics from the Hungarian town of Pecs was a central figure. Pigeons enjoyed the waters, taking baths in the shallow waters. The designer even remembered a handy detail – slightly curved indentations along the edge, just the size for sitting!
Another building attracting our attention was the library, a yellow neo-baroque edifice with rich sculptural decorations, built in 1897. Framing the main entrance were two muscular, slightly monster-like males in white stone, with an eagle spreading its wings in between the figures. On the corner of the building, a sculpted figure folded its arms above its head, as if bracing to hold up the curved balcony above it.

As the morning wore on, the curious collection of large cubes (reminding me of igloo snow blocks) were beginning to be used. Some young teen girls dressed in tight jeans and midriff tops danced syncopated, gyrating moves. On one end a large fan blew leaves, with cameramen moving in and out to capture the commercial. Other blocks were being carried to another decorative building with a balcony. Earlier we had remarked that the young woman peering over the balcony reminded us of Rapunzel. Now a stack of wooden and Styrofoam blocks were erected in a stairway, leading from the concrete below almost up to the balcony. In the floor above the balcony was a gynecological center. A woman in a lab coat peered down, also curious about the happenings below. Video cameras soon arrived here, directing a man when to add another block to almost reach the “Rapunzel”. I hope the filming also captured the gynecology sign ☺

Hungry (of course), we had a snack - žito, a wheat porridge flavored with nuts and raisins and served wit real whipped cream. Enjoying the sunny day, it was the perfect spot to people-watch.

Sombor
Although there were a lot more beautiful buildings we could have visited, it was time to move on to Sombor. Otherwise we would get to our nighttime destination of Sirogojno too late at night. Like its nearby city Subotica, Sombor was very flat and ideal for bicyclists. We parked the car near the outdoor market where one could buy lots of fresh produce and wooden do-dads. I especially liked the unusually tall straw brooms, circularly arranged around a large tree. The city was very laid back and was heavily shaded by the many trees in the parks. I enjoyed the architecture here as well, but not as much as Subotica’s. In a small hardware shop, Nancy spotted a mousetrap with four holes. The shopkeeper of the cramped shop demonstrated how to bait and set up the almost guillotine-like device. Other fun purchases included what we nicknamed a “Yak purse” and some wax for a beauty treatment (I promised not to reveal what they did with it). While at lunch (meat, of course), we spotted a cute small stray dog. It was very polite and would have made a great pet. Too bad we had a long journey to make. The dog did receive a healthy supply of leftover meat though.

Drive to Sirogojno
After our late lunch we headed towards our next destination – Sirogojno. We knew the narrow road would take longer, but we did not anticipate taking quite that long. Of course it would have helped if signage in NoviSad would have been existent, legible (one sign was so faded you couldn’t read any of the words), accurate arrows, and townsfolk who could provide accurate, helpful directions for visitors. Along this route we saw a lot of people burning in the fields. Others were still gathering harvest. The narrow two-lane highway was quite a challenge, testing one’s patience (as you got behind a slow truck) or one’s defensive driving as people tried to pass when a car was coming from the opposite direction. As we headed southward, the roads got curvier, indicating that we were entering more mountainous and hilly regions. Now dark, it was even more difficult to see the road hazards. In the middle of the road we saw a dog, obviously hit by a previous vehicle but still alive. Pat pulled over and attempted to go and find the dog to move it to the side of the road, but it was too late. Navigating through even more narrow forested roads from Užice to Sirogojno, we finally made it to our destination about 7 hours later. Because a filming for a Serbian sitcom (their equivalent to Mr. Bean) was occurring, the restaurant at the Ethno museum was still open. We didn’t stay up too late, because we had to prepare ourselves for our main task tomorrow – sweater shopping.

Tweet