Playing for the Maharaja

 "Playing for the Maharaja"

Color Pencil. Jaisalmer, India

©2020 Melissa Enderle

It is the day of the Gangaur festival in this ancient city of Jaisalmer. I'm doubly giddy about the festival celebrating our goddess of love and marriage this year since my granddaughter is in the procession of other eligible young females eager for love. She looks so beautiful and grown-up in her new dress and jewelry. Plus I'm one of the musicians selected to perform. Both me and my trusty kamaycha instrument are a bit worn but we both will sing out our best today. I've already performed some songs that beseech the goddess Gauri to bless these young women with prosperous marriages. Behold! The Maharaja has arrived! I quickly switch to a song singing the praises of His Highness. May he and his family live a long, prosperous life! The Golden City of Jaisalmer loves you!

See more of my artwork from India and other places on my website.

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Pastel Artwork: Purple Iris

 

My latest artwork, a pastel painting. 

"Purple Iris"

Pastel on PastelMat paper

©2020 Melissa Enderle

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My latest Portrait Art

Here is my latest portrait artwork, a color pencil drawing of a dancer I saw a few times in a park in Xi'an, China. It is the first artwork I did with the Polychromos color pencil set I bought. Based on her costume (especially the embroidered hat), I believe she is from the Uyghur ethnic group, those Muslims who are being heavily persecuted by the Chinese government. Some even are calling it a genocide. After the day I photographed her, I never saw any of the dance troupe again. I sure hope that the reason for their absence is not a sinister one.

You can find more of my artworks (for sale) on my website http://www.melissaenderle.com/art.html

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Desert Bloom at DeGrazia, Tucson

Here is one of my recently completed artworks, "Desert Bloom at DeGrazia, Tucson". Created with color pencils, it depicts the gated path leading up to the DeGrazia Art Museum in Tucson, Arizona.
You can find more of my artworks on my Melissa Enderle Artwork Facebook page or on my website.

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Coronavirus in Xi'an update

I have now completed my first week of giving assignments to students via an online tool. Both students and teachers are now scattered around the world. Many have recently returned to their home countries or have gone to nearby countries such as Thailand or Japan. Some are stranded in the country they vacationed in, due to travel restrictions.  Others have decided to try (at least for the time being) to stick it out in Xi'an. I intend to remain in Wisconsin until school is reopened, travel restrictions lifted, and the situation is stable.

The Xi'an airport

Those recently flying out of Xi'an encountered a virtually deserted terminal. Mask-wearing was mandatory, both at the airport and in the airplanes. All passengers are screened. People white wearing hazmat suits were present at the airport.

Bags of veggies to be delivered

For those living in apartment complexes that have had a person who tested positive for the coronavirus, they are put on lockdown. So far, 54 buildings or complexes are under such restrictions. (Considering that my complex currently has 18 high-rise buildings with around 34 floors, that's a lot of people!) No one is able to leave at all. (In other complexes, one person from the unit can leave every 2 or 3 days IF they don't have a fever).  Temperature and other monitoring are done upon exit and entry. For those in lockdown, vegetables are delivered to them. Imagine opening up the door and seeing your delivery person wearing a hazmat suit!

Taking no chances when delivering

According to the "official" numbers, there currently are 31,213 infections in China. Of those, 184 are in the Shaanxi province and 80 in Xi'an.
Current restrictions in the area:

• Those returning will immediately be quarantined for 14 days at a designated hotel. They may not first go to their apartment.
• Once they are able to return to their apartment, they must register with their apartment's management and follow all guidelines.
• No long-distance bus services.
• Over 106 local bus routes are suspended.
• Subways are still operating under limited hours and only some entrances. Registration is required.
• Several train lines are suspended.
• No Didi (China's equivalent of Uber) services.
• Wear masks when taking taxis, any public transportation, and in most any public place
• Taxi drivers must disinfect their vehicles at least 2x a day.
• Carry your ID/passport when taking public transport, in case they ask you to register your information
• Several shopping malls and hotels are closed.
• Supermarkets may be open but under limited hours. Some larger chains will have price-stabilized veggies and meat to prevent price-gouging.
• No large gatherings or events are permitted.
• Schools will remain closed at the direction of the Ministry of Education, and will likely remain closed until at least March 2. 

*Photos courtesy of my colleague, Jenna Dolman

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Teaching in China during the Coronavirus

On January 18, I departed Xi'an for what I thought was a short 12-day stay in Wisconsin, with my little brother's wedding being the highlight of the trip. As I write this, a calendar reminder popped up, reminding me that my flight to Xi'an was to happen in 15 minutes. And yet I am writing this from the couch at my condo in Madison, WI.

At the O'Hare airport on December 19 (one day later than planned due a flight delay and then missing the next flight), I saw a small sign that urged those traveling from Wuhan to self-report if they had a fever or cough. Because it didn't apply to me, I didn't give it much thought. Then I waited in the long line with the HUGE number of Chinese students returning to Madison for the start of the second semester. The at-capacity bus I was in, along with the other two buses, contained virtually all individuals from China.

Just a day later, the city of Wuhan became known to the world. I began thinking of those 16 hours I spent on the plane and then a few more hours on the bus with people from China. Had any of them been in Wuhan? An administrator from my international school in Xi'an contacted the faculty querying about where we had traveled and if we had any contact with those in Wuhan. On Monday, after hearing that school would be closed for at least two more weeks, I contacted my principal, requesting that I remain in Wisconsin until the re-opening date is definite.

 Map showing the current number of reported coronavirus infections

When I look at this map and see how the numbers continue to escalate every day, I am grateful that I arrived prior to the major outbreak and thankful that I did not have to return on the 30th, as originally planned. Friends in Xi'an reported store/mall closures, reduced store inventory (especially of produce), and the inability to find any masks and hand sanitizer. Getting around by public transportation is severely impaired, with the suspension of service, limited routes/hours, or long delays due to the screening of passengers. Several highway exits are also closed and health checks are being conducted at those open. Many flights are also being canceled. Didi (the Chinese equivalent of Uber), the most popular way for foreigners (and many locals) to travel within the city, has now suspended its service. People are strongly urged to stay home, cooped up in their high-rise apartments. All those entering the apartment complexes are checked for fever and cough.

Currently, there are 87 confirmed reported 9,742 cases in the Shaanxi province; of those, 32 are in Xi'an. Even the "small" town where a Chinese friend of mine has been cooped up in her family's apartment now has some infections. She is especially concerned for her grandma, who already has health issues. I pray for the health and safety of all the hard-working, kind citizens of this populous country.

Starting on Monday, I am to be giving art assignments to my students online. I can't use any resources that require the use of a VPN, in order to accommodate the Chinese students. So that means no Google apps, no YouTube, Vimeo, Pinterest, and even many seemingly innocent sites. Art supplies will have to be kept at bare minimum as well. If anyone has had experience or advice on teaching upper elementary art (particularly PYP) under these restrictions, I'd love your insight.

For now, be assured that I am safe and healthy in Wisconsin.

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Winter ❄️ wonderland in Wisconsin

via Instagram

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My Weaving experience at the Ock Pop Tok Center

After a wonderful lunch overlooking the Mekong River with fellow workshop participants, I began my 1/2 day weaving experience. The warp on the floor loom was already set up with 400 black dyed silk threads. Likewise, the supplementary heddle was already in place. This is the "program" that helps establish the patterns seen in the weaving.

Silk colored through natural dyes

Natural materials for dyes

To start, I chose the color that I wanted for my main weaving and for the design. Both the dusty rose dye and the cream color were created from the fresh leaves and bark of the teak tree; the light color was only briefly dipped. The skeins of silk were then wound onto spools, a process that also separates the silk and makes them smoother. Due to limited time, I only did a couple spools.

My weaving in process. The Naga design is at the bottom.

Most of the weaving was a simple tabby weave (over-under-over-under). I quickly got in the groove of which bamboo foot pedal my right foot should be on, scooting the shuttle through the opening, and the correct even pressure needed on the beater. For the design, I chose the naga - a mythical protective water serpent that I had seen in many local Buddhist temples.

The magic behind achieving the Naga continuous supplementary weft (kit) design comes from the supplementary heddle. Once a row of the design was woven, that string on the supplementary heddle was moved upward. Had my weaving called for a repetition of the Naga design, the supplementary heddle was already set up for this. In this complex part, the instructor was directly involved. Thankfully, she was also there when one warp string accidentally broke; she patiently attached some extra black thread to make the warp thread tight again. 

The loom with the supplementary heddle pictured on the left.

  Due to time constraints, the instructor removed the weaving from the loom after weaving several rows of thread. Multiple strands of the black warp threads were moistened, grouped and then two groups twisted together. The end was then knotted.

My finished weaving

I am pleased with my finished piece. I'd love to go back and try the more complex discontinuous supplementary weft (chok)  weaving. That is a 3-day course though. At any rate, the experience gives me a greater appreciation for the time and skill it takes to create such beautiful textiles. 

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Hmong Batik Experience in Luang Prabang, Laos

During my Christmas vacation, I participated in a half-day workshop on Hmong batik. The instructor was Mae Thao Zu Zong. This petite 66-yr old from the Striped Hmong (Hmong Lai) group is the remaining Hmong batik artist in Luang Prabang.

Mae Thao, Hmong batik artist

With a photo of her in the background, Mae Thao demonstrated how to hold the tjanting tool and make straight lines with the hot beeswax first on a small piece of woven flax. The locally harvested wax was tinted slightly with indigo to make it easier to see on the cloth. While she confidently formed straight lines in rapid succession, I found holding and controlling the tool (the metal part is near the heel of your hand) with the correct amount of wax (and at the correct temperature) a bit awkward. The weave was rather coarse, which sometimes made my movements a bit jerky.

Backstrap loom with hemp fibers

Thankfully, the less-than-perfect grid lines were camouflaged when additional details and symbols were added. Symbols included natural items such as cucumber seeds, pumpkin seeds, animal teeth, and ferns. For the curves of the center design, the tjanting tool was held more like a traditional drawing tool. 

Mae Thao demonstrates how to do the spirals

Instructor and student

Once I was finished with the wax part, I asked Mae Thao to pose with me. I stepped down so there wouldn't be quite the height difference in the photo. Because I wanted my piece to be dyed indigo, I had to leave it at the center. The following morning it would be dunked in a vat of indigo dye and the wax removed. Because it was only dipped once, it didn't get the deep blue color seen on many Hmong works that may be dipped up to 20 times.

My completed batik

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