Enderle Travelblog

Land Mine Bands

2012-02-02T05:15:00.000+05:30

On the walk from the parking lot to the atmospheric ruin of Ta Phrom, we passed by a band -one of several we'd see in the next few days that were comprised of victims of land mines. Some were missing one or several limbs, while others were blinded by explosions. Like much of what we saw in Cambodia, these band members are a testament to the resiliency that has led to the rapid turnaround in the country.

Estimates are that there still are around 9 million land mines remaining from the civil war, with about 400 injured last year (down from 700 in 2000). How many more will be maimed or killed due to these cowardly devices?

Banteay Kdei, Cambodia

2012-02-01T05:15:00.000+05:30

Next we visited Banteay Kdei, a Buddhist temple and monastery constructed in 1181AD. Having the place mostly to ourselves, we enjoyed walking though the ruins, past the entrances decorated with sculptures of Garuda, and past massive tree roots. Inside the structure, the domain belonged to bats, while the skies were home to the calls of green parrots.

Prasat Kravan, Cambodia

2012-01-30T05:15:00.000+05:30

True of most tourists to Cambodia, our main destination within the country was found just outside the town of Siem Reap the temples of Angkor. Due to the sheer numbers and spread-out locations of some of the many Buddhist and Hindu sites ranging from the reign of King Jayavarman II (802-850AD) to the mid 1200's, visitors focus on a certain number, depending on their length of stay and temple "stamina."

The first site we visit was known as Prasat Kravan. Built for Hindu worship in 921AD, the five brick towers had some particularly nice bas-relief carvings inside the central tower of the god Vishnu.

Adding to the destruction wreaked upon the temples by jungle nature and centuries of abandonment, the temples suffered further destruction in Civil War. The Khmer Rouge took statues from the sites and sold them to other countries.

Flaming Coconuts and Riverside Exercising

2012-01-28T22:39:00.000+05:30

We also had the opportunity to walk around the riverfront and a bit of Phnom Penh's downtown. Numerous weddings were taking place on side streets. Similar to tradition in India, cut banana plants and flowers adorned the weddings, whose festivities averaged around $5,000. One could see fewer people walking and certainly less busses than in Chennai, but motorcycles remained popular, as did (more comfy-looking) rickshaws pulled by motorcycles. The riverfront became a hub of activity at nightfall. Buddhist devotees lit incense, brought flowers, and placed placed candles inside hollowed-out coconuts, chanting to music by a temple. Further onward, both young and old were doing line dancing to various music styles emanating from large speakers. For those wanting even more action, exercise equipment was available. Not exactly your average playground! After a pleasant dinner at a restaurant located in a well-kept colonial building, we went into a few of the many cute shops. ATM machines abounded, spitting out US$, the preferred currency of the country.

The Killing Fields

2012-01-26T20:06:00.000+05:30

Still rather stunned by the haunting scenes at S-21, we proceeded in the late afternoon to Choeung Ek. It was here that after being detained and tortured at S-21, enemies of the Khmer Rouge were transported, executed, and buried. Our guide told us that the site was once a Chinese cemetery, a perfect guise for continued burying, albeit at a vastly larger scale. On what appeared to be a slightly postmarked landscape (there are around 130 identified mass graves, of which about a third have been exhumed), small signs revealed the horrors that took place here. One had contained the remains of over 100 women and children, the majority of whom were naked; another had 450 victims; still another contained bodies without heads.

From the branches of a large tree hung a loudspeaker, whose increasing volume of sound served to drown out the moaning and shrieks of those being executed. Flowers were placed against a tree against which babies were slammed. Even on the pathways, fragments of cloth and teeth protruded from the ground. A glass Memorial Stupa erected in 1988 served as a very vivid reminder of the horrors that took place here. Spanning over 12 levels were the skulls of nearly 9,000 victims clearly visible for all to see. A large collection of clothing gathered from the graves, including a pair of a young child's shorts, further humanized the memorial.

S1: From School to Prison

2012-01-24T21:09:00.000+05:30

While in Phnom Penh, we visited a very sobering site known as S21. Just years after it was built as a school (Tuol Svay Prey High School), the Khmer Rouge transformed the site into a prison where "Enemies of the Revolution" were detained, tortured, and killed. Aside from the barbed-wire meshed fence covering some entrances and balcony openings on the second floor, it still retained the resemblance of a school. Upon entering a classroom, however, things looked much different. In place of desks and chairs, several rooms contained a single bed, a box for bodily functions, and iron devices used to secure the hands and feet to the bed. Some also contained a chair and desk, from where a member of the Khmer Rouge would meticulously document about the current prisoner, including the torture process.

In another room, large panels displayed the photos of some of the 12,000 -20,000 individuals that went through the prison. Amongst the stark black&white photos were the faces of children. Hanging on the walls of some rooms were large photos of the decomposing bodies of tortured prisoners still shackled the bed when the prison was liberated, with pools of dried blood staining the floor beneath. Corners of the rooms also bore signs of torture, as did the blood spatters on the ceiling. Going up a very normal school stairway, we walked though rooms subdivided into crude cells the width of a toilet stall and other rooms subdivided with bricks.

According to our guide, the barbed wire covering the balcony openings was to prevent prisoners from jumping to kill themselves. In another room I read some of the excerpts written by the seven survivors, including an art teacher who believed he was answering the request for an art professor position. Of the two alive today, one was on-site, selling his book. One can only imagine the horrors he experienced within these walls.

National Museum, Phnom Penh

2012-01-23T21:05:00.000+05:30

Our next stop was to the National Museum, located just north of the Palace. Although photography of most objects was not allowed, we did enjoy viewing the Hindu statues (some dating back to the 6th century), a statue of the leader responsible for some of the grandest structures within the Angkor period, and some post-Angkor Buddha figures. Wings of the museum opened to a central garden, complete with water gardens, tropical vegetation, and a Buddhist sculpture in the middle. Although the museum was interesting to look at and contained information in English, it would have had more impact had we come after touring Angkor Wat.

Royal Palace, Phnom Penh

2012-01-22T20:54:00.000+05:30

With blue skies and pleasant sunshine, the morning started in a positive way by visiting the Royal Palace grounds in Phnom Penh. One of the dominating buildings in the well-maintained grounds was the Throne Hall. On top of the colonnaded concrete structure (replaced the wooden one built in 1866) was a tall golden spire with four faces, reminiscent of those at Bayon in the Angkor Thom complex. Another building, the Silver Pagoda, so-named for the 5,000 silver tiles each weighing 1 kg lining the floor, is equally popular. Carpeting covers most of the floor surface, so only a small number of these are visible. Two main Buddhas are found inside - the Emerald Buddha made out of Baccarat Crystal, and a life-size one made out of gold and decorated with over 9,500 diamonds. Within the palace grounds, I also enjoyed the extensive mural scenes depicting the Ramayana and the well-manicured bushes, some in the shapes of whimsical animals.

Off to Cambodia

2012-01-21T20:37:00.000+05:30

For Christmas break, I traveled with two friends through the. Countries of Cambodia and Myanmar (Burma). I was looking forward to see the countries' ancient sites, natural beauty, and hopefully meet some local people.

After flying from Chennai to Bangkok and then to Siem Reap, we left the cute airport there reminiscent of traditional Cambodian architecture and headed into the town to pass some time while waiting for the flight into Phnom Penh. Here we toured a workshop where village people learned apprenticeship for traditional crafts in wood and stone carving, painting on silk, lacquer designs, and tooling on copper.

Siem Reap, Cambodia

2012-01-17T18:02:00.001+05:30

Siem Reap, a set on Flickr.

After touring some sites in Phenom Penh, we flew to Siem Reap, Cambodia. Although most of our time was spent visiting the many sites within Angkor Wat, we did manage to see a traditional dance show, do a cooking class, and tour a place that trains local young people in learning a traditional craft.

Happy Pongal 2012

2012-01-15T21:57:00.001+05:30

Boiling pot and door, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Tamils all over the world are celebrating the harvest festival of Pongal today. Although kolams (designs made out of rice flour) are typically made in front of Tamil homes, the ones on special occasions such as this are made from colored powder. This kolam, depicting the boiling pot of plenty, sugar cane, coconut, bananas, and other harvest items is not the typical one employing radial symmetry, but I felt it portrayed the harvest festival theme very well.

Phnom Penh

2012-01-14T20:43:00.001+05:30

Phnom Penh, a set on Flickr.

In December, 2011 I visited the Cambodian city of Phnom Penh. Some places covered: The National Museum, Royal Palace, S1 School/Genocide Museum, the Killing Fields, and a local market.

Victoria Memorial

2012-01-01T00:01:00.000+05:30

Perhaps one of the most beautiful colonial building in Kolkata, the Victoria Memorial was conceived after the 1901 death of Queen Victoria. Lord Curzon, Viceroy of India, sought to have a building constructed in her honor - one that would be stately and spacious, and be surrounded by a beautiful garden. It was envisioned to be a historical museum showcasing paintings and statues of those who contributed to the country’s history and help instill a sense of national pride. Through donations, the memorial was constructed and opened in 1921. Situated on a 64 acre tract of manicured lawn, the white marble building stretches 184 ft (56 m) high, with the statue of Victory extending another 16 ft (1.8 m). While the exterior of the building was worth a visit in itself, I paid the extra money to go inside. Here, visitors were welcomed with a large collection of period oil paintings, maps, manuscripts, coins, armor, and weapons.

With the sun casting a faint orange hue over the dome, it was a signal for me to go. Walking back through the tall iron gate with guardian lion figures, I looked back at the elegant building, sad to see my time in Kolkata drawing to a close.

Happy New Year - Chennai Style

2012-01-01T00:00:00.000+05:30

A kolam of Chennai welcomes in the New Year. May the New Year bring prosperity, health, and happiness to you, wherever you are.

BBD Bagh Area, Kolkata

2011-12-30T21:27:00.000+05:30

After a pleasant early morning walk through a small market and through some back streets, I headed down to the area of Kolkata known as BBD Bagh. One of the villages from which Kolkata grew was situated here. Now it is more noted for its beautiful 18th and 19th century British colonial buildings, many of which were used for commercial and administrative control.

One such building is known as the Writer’s Building. Constructed in 1777, this stately building with its Corinthian columns and arched windows was once operated by the East India Company. Named after the “writers” (clerks) who worked there at the time, it still is used by the state government.

Another landmark of the area is fondly known as the GPO - the General Post Office. Built in the 1860, its rotunda rises to over 220 feet (67m). Even today, the GPO continues to handle much of the city’s incoming and out-coming mail.

Kali Puja Night

2011-12-28T21:08:00.000+05:30

Although I saw homes and business place tealights and small oil lamps by doorways and in windowsills as part of Diwali, it was Kali who stole center stage in this Bengali city. At street corners, inlets, and in front of storefronts, temporary structures were built to display and honor the idols of Kali. Each had one to several statues of the goddess Kali, typically portrayed with blue skin, long (and often rather unruly) black hair, a garland of trophy severed heads around her neck, and the signature tongue sticking straight down. Music blared from the speakers, making it easy for those in the vicinity to know that a puja stand was near.

Walking up to one display, I admired the statue that likely took many days to make, contained costly decorative elements, and yet would be drowned in the river a few days later. One person invited me to sit down. Seizing the opportunity, I asked him some questions about this goddess. He explained that Kali actually started out as Durga. According to a story, Durga was asked if she could help stop the rampant overrunning of demons. Soon she developed a taste for blood and began getting out of control. In an effort to stop her, Shiva (her husband) laid down in front of her. Just as she was about to step on him, she stopped in surprise and stuck her tongue straight down, aghast at the thought of what she almost did. (Cultural beliefs were that a wife’s feet should never touch a husband). When asking further questions the man smiled and apologized, saying that he was Muslim and was here to enjoy the festivities with his HIndu friends who had sponsored the display. The man next to him was also Muslim. Celebrating of Indian festivals definitely crosses religious boundaries!

Kumartuli

2011-12-26T21:01:00.000+05:30

Driving across the steel Howrah Bridge boasting as being the third longest cantilever bridge in the world, we then went to Kumartuli, meaning “Area of the Potters.” In these narrow alleys were tiny shops where potters churned out the many Durga idols used for the autumn festival. Few were at work, but I did see some in progress, revealing the straw framework of the nearly life-sized statues, then covered with layers of clay. Over ten men carried a headless multi-armed clay figure through the street using a bamboo support system. Along with the requisite chai shops, some stores specialized in decorative elements for Kali and Durga idols. Here you could take your pick amongst decorative metal swords, tin tridents, and even rows of severed heads.

Merry CHRISTmas

2011-12-25T20:53:00.000+05:30

From the streets of Pondicherry to the coconut groves of Kerala, some in India are celebrating the most important birthday recorded in human history. No, not a Bollywood (or Kollywood) movie star, and not even that of a politician. It is someone who grew up in very humble circumstances - much like the village huts of the India of today. This individual was Jesus -or Immanuel, which means God with us. I pray that the Christians of India will hold fast to the true reason for Christmas - the birth of our Savior. Happy birthday, Jesus!

Flower Market, Kolkata

2011-12-23T21:00:00.000+05:30

After a meal at a restaurant for locals, our next destination was the flower market. Much like the Kali Temple, this usually busy place was jam packed with people due to the festivities. Trucks unloaded bundle after bundle of flowers, each about 3 feet in height. Workers were busy unwrapping the bundles’ contents, cascading strands of strung marigolds. Many were being loaded in large openly woven baskets and placed on the heads of men who carried what reminded me of massive pompom caterpillars through to other areas of the market and onward. Vendors were lined up along the narrow path, eager to sell the mountain of flowers before them. Children sat in mounds of orange and yellow marigold heads while their mothers strung garlands. While the photo opportunities were ripe, the sheer congestion of people along with the pushing and shoving made it incredibly difficult as well as being a potential hazard for my equipment. I did, however, marvel at the sheer volume of flowers being unloaded, dispersed, and sold - right before my very eyes. Where were all these marigolds grown? How were they picked? What types of systems were in place that enabled such quantities of flower heads to be picked, transported into the city, and then manually distributed throughout the city - all while the short-lived pickings remained fresh?

After my motorcycle guide’s helmet got broken in the pushing and shoving of the sea of people, he rather grumpily suggested that we finish our time in the market and move onward.

Hooghly Bridge and the Botanical Gardens

2011-12-22T05:15:00.000+05:30

Our journey took us onward, over the long suspension Hooghly Bridge and then to the Botanical Gardens. Here I was led to the star attraction of the gardens - the massive banyan tree. A sign prominently displayed its importance, indicating that this tree, with over 2,880 prop roots and area covering 1.5 hectares, is over 250 years old and is in the Guinness Book of World Records. Like the impressive banyan tree in Chennai’s Theosophical Society, its central trunk is no longer present, having been exposed to damaging fungus after two severe cyclones in the mid 1800’s. Despite not having the 15.7 m in diameter main trunk, the banyan tree continues to thrive, offering great shade and a wonderful playground for the langur monkeys.

Kali Ghat Temple

2011-12-21T05:00:00.000+05:30

Although the current building of the Kali Temple only dates back to the 19th century, it has been a sacred site for much longer. A favorite pilgrimage place for Hindu devotees, this normally busy place was especially crowded on the day of my visit. The line to pay respects to the wild -looking female deity known as Kali. During my visit in Kolkata, I would see many idols of this favorite Bengali goddess, typically depicted with blue skin, black hair, tongue sticking down, and adorned with a garland of the decapitated heads of the demons she killed. Bypassing that long, snaking line, my motorcycle guide led me to a place within the temple compound where sacrifices were taking place. A family passed its goat over to a temple person. Everyone crowded around to witness the swift decapitation. Although I was not in a position to see the gruesome action, I did see the body fly to the left, with the blood spurting out of the neck like a fountain. As we left, I spotted four black goat heads lined up on the ground. How many more sacrifices would occur that day?

Birla Mandir, Kolkata

2011-12-20T22:21:00.000+05:30

On our way to the famous Kali Ghat temple, we stopped at the Birla Mandir. Made out of white marble, the Hindu temple had some beautiful details. Built from 1970-1996, it was commissioned by the wealthy Birla industrialist family. In contrast to much of the city, there was a feeling of tranquility here.

This was the second Birla Mandir I had visited, the first being in Delhi. Its architectural style resembled the Lingaraj Temple in Bhubaneswar.

The Ice Cream Man Cometh

2011-12-18T05:15:00.000+05:30

On a rather deserted Kolkata road surrounded by vegetable gardens and a "Garbage Mountain" came an ice cream truck. Although I could be wrong, I doubt he had many "takers" from the population present at the time. Who would be more tempted by an ice cream bar - the vegetable garden pickers or the scavengers in the garbage dump?

Roadside Design - Revealed

2011-12-17T05:15:00.000+05:30

Did you guess it?

These colorful roadside collections are comprised of bits of broken up plastic. It was one of many things recycled at this very modest facility located near "Garbage Mountain" in Kolkata.

Roadside Design

2011-12-16T05:15:00.000+05:30

Moving onward from "Garbage Mountain," I spotted a colorful scene and managed to capture this photo, despite the faster speed of the motorcycle on which I was riding "pillion." Can you guess of what materials this roadside design is composed?

Garbage Mountain and the Vegetable Fields

2011-12-14T05:15:00.000+05:30

With surprisingly light traffic, we quickly made it out of the main city. On both sides of the road were small fields of vegetables. Due to the festivals of Kali Puja and Diwali, only a few workers were in the fields, weeding and attending to the small cauliflower. My motorcycle guide was keen to point out the huge garbage dump off to one side. A few gypsies were picking through items in front. Adding to the rather incongruous scene was an ice cream cart, rolling its way down the lonely road as if it were the most natural place to be. Back on the motorcycle, we drove past several crude buildings where recycling of leather, paper, plastic, and other items took place.

Park Street Cemetery

2011-12-13T05:15:00.000+05:30

Through a pair of barred gates was an equally tranquil place - the Park Street Cemetery. Dating back to 1767, this cemetery is the resting place for VIP Europeans who died in Kolkata. Early morning fog magnified the feeling of mystique; the dew made the slightly mossy walkways a bit slippery. Large, but simple tombs lined the walkway. Some were tall and cubical, others had a slender pyramid on top. With archways and columns, others looked like a compact building. Moss and vines provided ornamentation to the otherwise plain tombs.

The Mother House

2011-12-12T05:15:00.000+05:30

The first place we visited is fondly known as The Mother House. The building was very unassuming and simple. In one corner near the entrance was an enclosed statue of Mary and a larger bronze statue of an older Mother Theresa, slightly stooped over and fingering her rosary. Still an active house with nuns, photography was permitted only in the room where Mother Teresa’s body was interred. Inside this room illuminated mainly with the light of the windows and open doorway was the focal point - her tomb. A visitor kneeled at the far end of the tomb, saying a silent prayer. A nun gently placed a lit candle near the top end of the smooth white marble surface. A cross and the words “I belong to Jesus” composed cleverly out of marigold petals decorated the otherwise plain, flat surface. In the adjacent area was a museum area containing information about this revered Albanian and some of her items. On the way up the stairs to Mother Teresa’s room, we saw nuns washing white and blue saris by hand, engaged, but appearing satisfied. Her room consisted of a simple twin bed, table with equally worn benches, desk, a crown of thorns on the wall, a framed photo of Pope John Paul II, and a few other basic items.

Kolkata - Drive-by Shaving

2011-12-11T14:08:00.001+05:30

Despite having arrived back from the Sunderbans around 10 pm, I was ready to go for a motorcycle tour through Kolkata early the following morning. It was the day of Diwali, so I was eager to see how this bustling cultural capital of India would celebrate this country-wide festival of lights.

On my walk over to the tour agency, I walked through a narrow street. One one side, people were sitting on makeshift stone benches, reading the paper. On the other, people were brushing their teeth, washing clothes and dishes, and getting a shave. Once you were done with your morning preparations, the stalls next door were available to serve you chai (sweet milky spiced tea) and various fried breakfast foods. If it hand’t been for the hand-carried rickshaws also plying through the same narrow lane, it could have been like walking through the bathroom and kitchen of a house.

Leaving the Island

2011-12-10T05:00:00.000+05:30

Our boat trip now done, a bicycle taxi once again picked us up and pedaled us through the island to pick up the boat taxi. This driver was rather “horn-happy,” squeezing the bulb horn as a regular communication tool. Others chimed in, dinging their bicycle bells or more robust motorbike horn. With several simultaneously honking, it could have been part of an Indian symphony. With evening soon setting, a fog began to descend over the rice paddies. Older girls and women carried water to their homes. A small child held his mother’s hand, skipping along the narrow dirt path past the rice paddy near their home. The small market area was bustling with those buying produce or picking out the choice firecrackers. Music blasted from the temples and small shops. Men played cards in near darkness. The homes of many now disappeared in the darkness. Others were lit by a single kerosene lamp or light bulb (some powered by solar electricity). The single bell at a church clanged, inviting worshippers as we departed the island. The taxi boat made its way in virtual darkness, guided by experience and the lights coming from the distant shore.

Stilts and Tusks

2011-12-09T05:00:00.000+05:30

The roots of the mangrove trees fascinated me. The long Rizophora stilt roots made it appear as if the tree could suddenly get up and walk away. The roots of other trees snaked along the muddy surface. The abundant breathing roots grew upward out of the anaerobic mud to breathe, peppering large swathes around the tree with finger-like projections. Some of these breathing roots were taller, resembling curved tusks.

Wildlife at Low Tide

2011-12-08T21:34:00.000+05:30

The boat chugged its way through some of the five interconnected rivers as well as a few smaller ones. As the water receded once again, I could see how an understanding of the river topography would be invaluable in successful navigation. What was completely flooded several hours ago was now a steep mounded bank. An egret stood in the remaining trickle of water flowing in the clay valley. Several types of colorful crabs and conical shelled creatures abounded on the shores. Shore birds such as the curlew and Indian Pond Heron combed the mud for tasty morsels. Other animals spotted included several Ganges River dolphins, wild hogs, wild roosters, and spotted deer.

Patiently Waiting

2011-12-07T07:40:00.000+05:30

Although even larger than the monitor lizard, the crocs in the Sunderbans were also difficult to spot. (Estuarine crocodiles can reach up to 10 m - 32 feet in length). It amazed me how they could hold perfectly still and then suddenly bolt, running on their short feet towards the river, perhaps for a tasty fish snack. It may also prey on large animals. The Estuarine crocodiles are critically endangered due to habitat loss and hunting.

Leaping Lizards!

2011-12-06T07:27:00.000+05:30

Perfectly camouflaged with the clay soil, it certainly would have been a lot easier to spot the monitor lizards had they done a bit of leaping. This lizard was likely going on a feeding frenzy, enjoying all the crustaceans crawling about - along with the occasional fish, eggs, and perhaps even some ground birds. From this photo it is difficult to visualize its size, but the Bengal monitor lizard can reach a size of 175 cm - about 5 3/4 feet!

High Tide Wildlife

2011-12-05T07:22:00.000+05:30

During high tide, all I spotted were a few monkeys and some birds. After a few hours, the stilt roots of the Rizophora trees began appearing. The lower leaves revealed the typical high tide level, now tinted a lighter color with salt deposits. As the clay ground emerged, so did more animals.

High Tide!

2011-12-04T07:12:00.001+05:30

As I made my way back to the boat, I was shocked to see how vastly the scene had changed in an hour. The tide had come in, flooding the area, submerging trees up to their lower branches. The boat had drifted a bit, so they had to pole it in in order for me to board. After breakfast and a short stop at a visitor center, the boat motored down the river. Our guide explained that there were 102 islands (mostly forested) in the Sunderbans, with 54 of those inhabited. Some are kept exclusively for wildlife. Covering an area of 18,000 sq. km (6,950 ft), the Sunderbans (a portion in West Bengal and the rest in Bangladesh) is both a UNESCO World Heritage site and a Tiger Reserve. I didn’t expect to see any of the illusive Bengal tigers, but would simply enjoy the natural beauty of the mangroves.

Early Morning walk in a Sunderbans Village

2011-12-01T16:53:00.000+05:30

After being awoken at dawn by the unwelcome serenading of a mosquito, I got up and observed my surroundings from the boat’s deck. Still early, everything was quiet. Still low tide, the boat was currently marooned a fair distance on grey clay. The cement dock led to the steeply embanked clay path, over the protective embankment, and into the village.

Within the hour, the sleepy village residents began to stir. Walking around brushing one’s teeth seemed to be in fashion. A yellow metal iron-gridded school bus trike made its way on the narrow path. A young boy led its black groat through the quiet street. Spotting a small pond with water lilies, I climbed down to its shore. From here I paused for a while, admiring the tranquil scene and several photos as the golden rising sun cast its warm colors and light on the lilies and pads.

Canoe Ride in the Sunderbans

2011-11-30T05:00:00.000+05:30

Once in the canoe, we were rowed past small fishing boats with a short semi-circular shelter. Kingfisher birds of varying colors perched on top of poles and branches. From the muddy shores, birds such as Indian pond herons searched for fish, tadpoles, and crustaceans. Crabs merrily scampered along the muddy beach. In the calm waters, tiny fish skipped across the surface. The sky now changing from a warm orange to pink, a few fishermen were spotted, casting their nets from the muddy shore. Flocks of birds flew across the sky, mere silhouettes at dusk. With the light rapidly fading, our expert rower navigated to the large boat that would be our abode for the night and tour vehicle the next day. After some live entertainment by several local Bengali musicians, we headed below deck for the night.

A Marooned Boat and a Mudskipper

2011-11-29T16:44:00.000+05:30

Near where the goats were happily nibbling away on the breathing roots of some mangrove trees, a canoe lay marooned on the bed of very mucky clay. A very wet zigzag led down to the river, indicating that even this height would be underwater come high-tide. At this time though, it seemed to be improperly placed.

Walking carefully on the raised mud path, I spotted a mudskipper fish below, successfully walking on the mud with its pectoral fins and looking rather muppet-like with its closely-placed beady eyes.

Nibbling At the Roots

2011-11-27T14:42:00.000+05:30

Much like anywhere, these goats wander through the area in search for food, nibbling at whatever might possibly be edible. These goats in the Sunderbans schlepped through the muck and appeared to nibble at the breathing roots (pneumatophores) of the mangrove trees. (Pneumatophores help trees in these soil-poor clay soil areas to receive sufficient oxygen). The breathing roots here were quite small and likely rather tender; by contrast, some of the breathing roots I spotted elsewhere in the mangrove forest were spiky and well over a foot high.

Adding a Fresh Layer of Mud

2011-11-26T14:34:00.000+05:30

Despite the recurring destruction of cyclones in the Sunderbans area (four years ago, a devastating cyclone destroyed virtually all mud homes in the village, with people fleeing to the tops of concrete buildings), many people still build their homes with mud. It is cheap, plentiful, and keeps the interior much cooler than concrete. This woman was spending her late afternoon putting a fresh layer of mud on the exterior. I wonder how she reaches the area near the top....

Embroidering the Cloth

2011-11-25T19:39:00.001+05:30

Embroidering the Cloth, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Here's my latest painting- just in time for my art show next Saturday!

You're Invited

2011-11-24T17:32:00.001+05:30

Come to my art show in Chennai, India.
Opening: Saturday, Dec. 3

Just Hangin' Around With My Friends and My Toothbrush

2011-11-24T14:29:00.001+05:30

I've seen this many times- people in India seem to like to walk and brush. While curious as to the red-haired visitor to their quiet island village, the girl quick got in a few brushes in between posing for the camera. Quite the four-some!

Bonbibi and the Honey Collector

2011-11-21T20:17:00.001+05:30

Walking through the village of Pakhirala, we were shown a small enclosure along the side of the road. Inside were several clay figures. Our guide explained that in the Sunderbans, a sort of folk religion was practiced - superstition combined with Islam and Hinduism. The clothed female figure was Bonbibi, a goddess of the jungle. Islanders believe that she protects the fishermen, woodcutters, and honey collectors from attacks by tigers.
Our guide said that this boy (below) was also involved with the honey collecting protection/success. Looking up information using the name he gave me was unsuccessful.

Read more about Bonbibi at http://infochangeindia.org/environment/features/maa-bonbibi-in-the-land-of-tigers.html

Homes of the Sunderbans

2011-11-17T19:16:00.000+05:30

A quiet canal flanked the sides of the road. To reach the homes and farmsteads, one had to walk across a tiny plank or narrow mud mounded path. Homes and barns were next to each other, with the livestock wandering around. While most structures were roofed with thatch, walls were built with cement or mud. The roof of some homes sported a satellite dish while others had a small solar panel. Such solar panel would provide enough electricity to light a bulb and TV. Saris, blankets, and nets hung out to dry on lines stretched between palm trees. Goats lazed in the shade while women worked.

A Pole With a View

2011-11-15T05:00:00.000+05:30

Camera strapped around my shoulder, I instantly had it ready when I spotted these two guys up on what looked like an electrical pole, here on the island of Gosaba in the Sunderbans. They seemed very happy up there, waving and sending me a greeting as I passed by - probably with a rather shocked look on my face. Note the safety harness, hard hat, and protective footwear....

A Bicycle Taxi Through Gosaba Island

2011-11-13T20:18:00.001+05:30

Safely ashore on Gosaba Island, we were greeted by two island taxis. We piled on to the flat wooden trailers as the taxi man pedaled on in his large trike. Along with bicycles and the occasional motorcycle, these taxis were the main ways people traversed across the island. Our tricycle taxi man was rather patient, only ringing his bicycle bell when passing or meeting another vehicle on narrow parts of the road. Others depressed their horns or bells as often as drivers in metro Indian cities did. In front of us, a small green covered shelter motored by a tricycle made its way through the narrow path. Schoolchildren cheerfully waved to us through the iron-gridded window in back, enjoying the diversion as they were pedaled home from school.

Gosaba Island Taxi

2011-11-11T05:00:00.000+05:30

No fancy ferries to get to the Sunderbans and the island of Gosaba! Instead, we took this island taxi. For five rupees (about 10 cents) it took all who could crowd onto the boat to and from the island. Most people, including the grannies, sat along the edge of the boat, perched rather precariously on an edge that was about two inches in width. Not wanting to risk my DSLR camera (or embarrassment), I chose to buck the trend and sit inward.

The taxi "driver" steers the boat

Rice Paddies of West Bengal

2011-11-10T20:09:00.000+05:30

Reflecting the West Bengali’s steady diet of rice, the fields leading down to the Sunderbans largely contained the tell-tale green of rice plants. Along with fish, rice is a staple of many residents. Alongside the river in some towns, I saw small plots of marigolds, popular flowers in the area for festive occasions. Tied to posts and tree trucks near the road, goats rested on the edge of the road. Motorists had to watch out for them, lazy dogs, and the ambling cow.

Water - Source of Pleasure and Livelihood

2011-11-08T20:05:00.000+05:30

Rural West Bengal seemed to place great importance on water. In some areas, the wide, expansive flat areas edging each side of the road was filled with water. Fishermen stood in waist-deep water, armed with fishing nets and box traps. Narrow, mounded mud served as paths leading to thatched homes and across to other “ponds.” In towns, kids (and adults) happily splashed in the town ponds, playing around or lathering themselves with soap. Women took advantage of the the water to wash clothes and kitchen pots.

Vehicles of Rural West Bengal

2011-11-06T20:00:00.000+05:30

Once out of the expansive metropolis of Kolkata, the pace relaxed. Multi–story buildings and showrooms gave way to simple huts and shacks. The center of activity for men of the village, such tiny shops were gathering places to purchase goods, drink sweet chai, gossip, and play a few rounds of cards. The iconic yellow taxis of Kolkata were replaced by flat bed trailers pulled by motorcycle–sized vehicles. Others chose to traverse the narrow roads by hanging on to the back of trucks, crowding into battered buses, and the occasional modified auto rickshaw.

Kolkata, West Bengal

2011-11-04T20:52:00.000+05:30

I have now posted on Flickr my photos of photos of Kolkata (formerly Calcutta). Includes photos of the Hindu celebration Kali Puja. http://www.flickr.com/photos/melissaenderle/sets/72157628044313254/

Blog posts about Kolkata to follow!

The Sunderbans - Mangrove Forest

2011-10-31T22:07:00.003+05:30

This past week for our October Diwali break, I traveled to West Bengal. The first location I visited was the Sunderbans, situated in both West Bengal (India) and Bangladesh. Famous for its Bengal tigers, the Sunderbans is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is the world's largest tropical Mangrove forest.

See my photos at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/melissaenderle/sets/72157627895455813/

Oh, the Secrets I Could Tell

2011-10-28T19:07:00.000+05:30

In just the few minutes I paused here, a steady stream of devotees bent down to whisper into the ear of Nandi, located at the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai. It is believed that such whispered prayers will reach the god Shiva.

Happy Diwali!

2011-10-26T18:58:00.000+05:30

As this is posted, I am in Kolkata. I look forward to experiencing Kolkata's version of Diwali - the festival of Lights. Although I doubt I can escape the firecrackers and fireworks, I want to see how this north-eastern city celebrates this major Hindu festival.

For all my friends who partake, happy Diwali!

Potramarai Kualam - Meenakshi Temple

2011-10-22T18:58:00.000+05:30

Upon entrance to the temple, devotees would first make a trip around the 50x37 m (165x120ft) sacred pond prior to entering the main shrine. Meaning Pond with the Golden Lotus due to the golden color of the lotus growing there, the pond was devoid of any water when I visited it, due to repairs being done. Despite its empty state, throngs of people still gathered in the pillared corridors. In line with Tamil legends, authors still place their works in the pond which judges its worth, with esteemed ones floating while poorly written doomed to sink. Talk about a critic!

Weddings -times 4,5,6,7

2011-10-22T18:51:00.000+05:30

On the day that I visited the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai, it must have been an auspicious day for getting married. The colonnaded hallway around the Lotus Pond was brimming with wedding couples and their guests. Lots of silk, gold, mehendi, and jasmine here!

Of Deities and Yallis

2011-10-20T05:00:00.000+05:30

The towering four gateways of the Meenakshi Temple in Madurai are totally covered with protruding statues of brightly painted deities, mythical and real animals, and monsters. On the top, menacing faces of guardian deities known as yallis with their protruding eyes, horns, teeth, and long mustaches stare at those who come near. A feast for the eye, the temple’s twelve gopuras beg for extra viewing and zoom lenses.

Meenakshi Temple - Heart of Madurai

2011-10-18T18:36:00.000+05:30

Located in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu, the city of Madurai is synonymous with it fabulous Hindu temples, most notably the Meenakshi Temple. The Meenakshi Sundareshvara Temple was originally built by the Pandas who reigned during the 7th-10th centuries and received extensive additions by succeeding dynasties, particularly during the 14th and 18th centuries. The current structure, mostly rebuilt in 1559 AD, is considered a splendid example of South Indian Dravidian architecture. Surrounded by high walls, the massive temple complex (45 acres) has four entrances - one at each main cardinal point. To enter, visitors walk through one of the massive pyramidal gopuras, each with a height of more than 50 m (164 ft), with the tallest rising to 52 m (170 ft). It is the of the few temples on Tamil Nadu to have entrances at each of the four cardinal points.

Even today, the Meenakshi Temple is both the geographic and religious center of Madurai.

Poondi Matha Basicilica

2011-10-16T20:09:00.000+05:30

Our final place of pilgrimage in Tamil Nadu was to the small village of Thiruvaiyaru Taluk. Amidst the emerald green paddy fields rose the large basilica known as Poondi Matha (meaning mother in Tamil). Erected in the late 18th century, this white structure of Gothic and French style was elevated to the status of minor basilica by Pope John II in 1999.

Like other churches along the pilgrimage path with Velankanni, Poondi Matha attracts large numbers of visitors around the time of the festival in Velankanni. The basilica has been enlarged due to donations and even contains an upstairs room that is air conditioned - a definite incentive to meditate! Masses were held on a rotating basis in multiple languages, accommodating the various places of origins for these Indian visitors. More housing and eating facilities have been erected to try to accommodate the swell of visitors. Some still elect to cook and/or sleep outside - which is fine until the downpours come!

The Poondi Matha houses a tiny fragment of what it claims to be a piece of the cross of Christ. People kissed the glass in front of the relic as they walked by, then spending more time in front of the large statue of Mary and infant Jesus. Once again, Mary was clad in a silk sari (several more were draped in front of the display - gifts of devotees), gold chains given by people, and floral garlands. More garlands were tied in front of the display, constantly refreshed by people. Off to the side, a worker took off some still-fresh garlands and began (much to my horror) ripping them apart and tossing the roses and other flowers in what looked like a waste basket.

Parade by the Pieta

2011-10-16T11:54:00.000+05:30

Devotees gather near the chariot of Mary, being paraded past the grotto of Mary and a copy of the Pieta at the Poondi Matha Basilica.

Coming in With Mary

2011-10-13T19:41:00.000+05:30

On our way to the Idaikattur Church in Tamil Nadu, we passed by a fair number of religious pilgrims walking alongside the road, all bare-footed. Most carried few possessions - typically what they could carry in a small bag. One group proudly pushed along a religious "chariot." Except for the cross on top, one could at a distance forgive it for being for a Hindu ceremony. Loudspeakers, powered by a large battery, broadcast praises of Mary to Christian and Hindu households alike.

Wearing a silken sari, garlands made of fragrant flowers, and a large crown on her head, the statue of Mary dominated the chariot interior. Struggling to emerge amidst the cloth was the child Jesus.

Now nearing dusk, the colorful decorative lights adorned the roof and cross. People gathering around the chariot began singing in unison, accompanied by drums. The positive energy was strong, evidence of the passion and devotion of all gathered.

Kolu gods display

2011-10-11T21:49:00.000+05:30

A closeup of a few of the god dolls on display for Kolu, a Hindu festival. Rekha (the hostess) has arranged the figures by size, with the largest on the top stair.

Kolu Display and Host

2011-10-10T05:00:00.000+05:30

A friend of a colleague of mine invited us to see the kolu display in her flat. Rekha's display of just stone-colored gods was a bit different than the colorful (and sometimes whimsical) figures I had seen in Mylapore. She explained that this more somber style was more representative of the type of display that would be found in a temple. Every year she sets up a different themed display. Imagine the storage needed for such collections!
Thanks again Rekha for being such a gracious hostess!

Child with Pleading Eyes

2011-10-09T18:32:00.001+05:30

Child with Pleading Eyes, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

A pastel painting I was working on.

Banana Leaves and Sandalwood Paste

2011-10-07T05:00:00.000+05:30

Those little sputtering tuk-tuks definitely like to get into the Ayudha Puja festivities. Rickshaw owners take their vehicles to get a cleaning and at special stands, have the exteriors decorated with patterned (or splattered) sandalwood paste. Banana stalks are then attached to the side corners. Going through the streets, the large leaves flutter in the breeze like flags.

At the colorful stands where the "pimping" of the rickshaws takes place, loud music jubilantly announces the presence of the decorating service. This stand was set up on the side of the road going past Chennai's many IT parks.

Ganesh Teaches the Mice

2011-10-06T05:00:00.000+05:30

My friend bought this cute kolu set. Although Ganesh was a popular figure in the many displays we had already viewed, this one caught our eye. How appropriate is it to find the beloved elephant god seated in the front of an invisible room, while his pupils with their paper diligently listen. Look closely and you will notice each of these mice students each have a shock of black hair running down their back - female students!

Ayudha Puja - Remembering the Tools

2011-10-05T20:03:00.003+05:30

Seeing cut stalks of banana plants alongside the road and more vehicles than usual with garlands and sandalwood splatter, I correctly guessed that today is Ayudha Puja. I love how items related to your labor are honored, through careful cleaning and decoration. Flower sellers love this day, as people buy garlands of aesthetic or fragrant flowers to adorn everything from their vehicle (including bicycles, rickshaws and motorcycles) to cement mixers and shop entrances. Palm leaf decorations hang from places, broken dyed green pumpkins litter the road sides, and splats or "v" shaped patterns made from sandalwood paste + vermillion powder adorn windshields and other flat surfaces.

By worshipping the tools of one's profession, it helps point to the divine force behind working behind the tool to help carry out a successful performance. Ayudha Puja is celebrated in different ways around India and is usually celebrated in Tamil Nadu on the 9th day of Navatiri - usually at the end of September or beginning of October.

Visit previous posts from years past on this Hindu festival - 2009 and on the rickshaws, 2008 #1 and #2

Of Gopurams and Dolls

2011-10-04T05:00:00.000+05:30

With the impressive gopuram of the Kapaleeshwarar (Mylapore) temple in the background, these sari-clad women stop to look at the display of kolu dolls on sale for the Navatiri festival. See yesterday's post for a close-up of one display.

Krishnas to Villagers

2011-10-02T19:46:00.000+05:30

Once again, kolu dolls fill the streets surrounding the Kapaleeshwarar Temple in Mylapore, Chennai. Stall after stall sells these colorful dolls during the festival of Navartiri. From whimsical blue Krishnas and Hindu chariot processions, to village scenes and family members all gathered around a TV, shoppers could find at least some items that they didn't yet have in their collection. Because each stall had slightly different ones (and of varying painting quality), it was helpful to visit at least a few stalls before making a decision.

I made this image a bit larger so you can peek around the stall. Which one(s) would you buy?

Oriyur Church, Tamil Nadu

2011-09-30T19:25:00.000+05:30

One of the other churches we visited for a short time was the shrine in Oriyur, erected at the site where missionary and saint John De Britto was martyred in 1693. A Portuguese Jesuit priest, De Britto devoted his life to bringing the Gospel to the people of Tamil Nadu. After his beheading, the sand at the site is said to have turned red. Devotees believe that by applying the sand on their bodies, they will be relieved of incurable diseases. (Truthfully, I did not notice anything unusual about the sand). After praying to the saint at the church, childless couples are said to be given a child.

One of the churches visited during the September pilgrimage season, Oriyur receives over 25,000 pilgrims (Christians, Hindus, and Muslims alike) during this time period of a couple of weeks. Visitors from Tamil Nadu and neighboring Kerala make up the bulk of those that come to worship and pray at the Portuguese style church.

Ponki and other Kolu Dolls

2011-09-29T05:00:00.000+05:30

For the festival of Navartiri in South India, each state has a different type of doll. For example in Andhra Pradesh, dolls of village life and deities are made of soft wood and are known as Poniki wood dolls. In the city of Thanjavur in Tamil Nadu, the delightful Tanjore dancing dolls move their heads and waists as any proper bobblehead would. Dolls in Rajasthan are made of colorful cloth and wood. In Karnataka near Bangalore, colorful wooden dolls are made, some depicting life in a village.

Above is an example of a Poniki wooden toy made in Andhra Pradesh.

Kolu Dolls of South India

2011-09-28T05:00:00.000+05:30

In South India, Hindu homes in this time of the year celebrate the festival of Navartiri with Kolu dolls. Literally meaning an assembly, special dolls are arranged in stairstep displays of odd-numbered steps (1,3,5,7, 9, or 11). During this nine-day festival, the goddess Mahishasuramardini is remembered for her slaying of the devil Mahishasura. The first steps are typically dedicated to gods and goddesses. The next steps are for saints and demi-gods. Following that in succession are marriage, businesses and crafts, and traditional wooden dolls.
Women love to show off their kolu display and invite friends, relatives, and neighbors to their homes. Sweets and small gifts will be given to the guests.

Even grocery stores get in the action!

Idaikattur Church, Tamil Nadu

2011-09-26T05:00:00.000+05:30

The current church was built in 1866 by a French priest. Funding for the church was made by a French woman who was cured from a heart ailment and wanted to show her gratitude by having a church built in the missionary country of India. One of her conditions was that the building must be a replica of the Rheims Cathedral in France. The structure at Idaikattur is built in the Gothic style, with a vaulted roof supported by columns with cantilevers. Between the two roofs are small openings, which helps with circulation. Inside are 153 angels, some on the altar, others as sculptures around the church, and still others in stained glass windows. In addition, there are relics of 40 saints. Unlike most depictions of the Sacred Heart of Jesus which have the heart placed in the middle of the chest, this church has the heart in the left chest, just like humans. This human quality is attractive to pious visitors. The Sacred Heart of Jesus statue is one of three made, with the other two being placed at the convent of St. Margret and another in Rheims.

The church is one of the sites on the pilgrimage tour. It is believed that the petitions of the pilgrims are granted within one month from the time they are raised. In particular, relief from all kinds of psychological and heart ailments, to have happy marriages, to have children, get prompt employment, become debt-free, have family peace, excellent education for one’s children, and return to health.

Notice in the interior photo that there are but a few pews. The rest of the people sat, squatted, or kneeled on the cool, marble floor, except for a few elderly/physically limited individuals seated in a few plastic chairs scattered near the edge of the church. Such an arrangement certainly enabled more pilgrims to cram into the space!

Rabari Farmer, Gujarat

2011-09-25T17:08:00.001+05:30

Rabari Farmer, Gujarat, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Here is the watercolor painting I just finished of a farmer. Like most farmers in the region, he is wearing all white. My dad (who was a farmer) couldn't get over how these men could keep their clothes so white over the course of a day. Note the large earrings in the middle part of his ears.

Tsunami Miracle at Velankanni

2011-09-23T05:00:00.000+05:30

On December 26, 2004, over 2,000 pilgrims were taking part in a Mass in the main basilica. Along with other coastal areas of Tamil Nadu, the small coastal town of Velankanni was not spared, devastating the entire town. The only building that escaped destruction was the basilica, sparing all those lives. This is particularly remarkable considering that buildings on the same elevation, located even further inland, were destroyed, while the inside of the basilica remained completely dry. Many consider this a miracle, performed by the loving, protective hand of God.

A similar incident occurred in Chennai, near Marina Beach. St. Thomas Basilica, located right by the sea, was spared from the tsunami, with the devastating waters parting just before reaching the church’s backside. While the church was untouched, the waters spread past the road further inland.

St. Thome Basilica, Chennai

Velankanni Night Splendor

2011-09-22T05:00:00.000+05:30

Velankanni Basilica, lit up at night, as seen from the hotel window

Oh, how tranquil it looks! Not visible (but present): throngs of people camping out at night, still worshipping within the different chapels, stalls selling goods and making food, and much more.

A Dip in the Holy Water

2011-09-21T05:03:00.000+05:30

After making my way through the crowds, I arrived at the beach of Velankanni. Although early in the morning, it already was rather crowded. With the mass of people now in the small town, whose lodgings are unable to accommodate all (or those who choose to sleep outside), the sea was the perfect place for a dip - or a bath. Since this is more conservative South India, women walked in the water with their saris or salwars. Out of respect for the bathers, I did not take such close-up shots.

I did find this scene rather fascinating though. Everyone in the area was wearing orange - the color of penitent pilgrims. The way they interacted with the water made me wonder if some holy or healing status was being applied to the sea by Velankanni. Much like that of the Hindu's holy Ganges River.

Walking to the Beach, Velankanni

2011-09-20T06:52:00.000+05:30

In true India style, this mass of people are making their way to the beach at Velankanni. Along the way, they can get snacks, cheap Chinese toys, or even shave their heads. I knew that the beach and ocean had to be that way, but with the crowds, it was impossible to see. I eventually did make it to the beach - without being tempted by any of the goods, services, and head-shaving opportunities.

Wishes and Requests

2011-09-19T05:15:00.000+05:30

Hanging from trees near the chapel by Mary’s Tank were colorful bundles of cloth and folded pieces of paper. Inquiring about this to my Chennai Christian friends who had invited me to go with them to Velankanni, I was told that the bundles of cloth were tied by people seeking the birth of a child. On the pieces of paper all strung together, people would write prayers and requests.

The scene reminded me of the strings tied at the tomb of the Sufi saint in Fatehpur Sikri (near Agra). When a prayer has been fulfilled, the person would return to untie the string.

Fatehpur Sikri

Buy your Candles (and Body Parts) Here!

2011-09-18T05:00:00.000+05:30

A Catholic pilgrimage place would not be complete without places to purchase candles. This stall sells candles of varying colors and sizes, hoping to attract those of most any budget. Amongst the rainbow of colors, you will also find body parts for sale. Available are metal (perhaps even silver) squares with relief impressions of body parts, vital organs, children, and others. Likewise, white moulded arms, legs, and children hang above. Those seeking to have a baby might purchase the child piece. Hoping to get your bum knee healed? Bring the leg piece as an offering. I saw the same types of purchases available at a Hindu temple in Gujarat.

Get Your Heads Shaved Here!

2011-09-17T05:00:00.000+05:30

Finding a place where you could get your head shaved was not a problem in Velankanni. I love the sign in front of this crudely made station. Despite the fancy jewelry, fair skin, and large "shades" to entice potential customers with the resulting beauty, I still did not feel compelled by any means to give it a try.

Bald is Beautiful

2011-09-16T05:15:00.000+05:30

When visiting the various churches including Velankanni on our short trip, one could definitely come to this conclusion. Men, women, and children all sported the slick look. A paste made out of sandalwood covered some newly-shaved heads, large handkerchiefs protected others from the sun, and still other heads were proudly sported in all their bare beauty. Christians and HIndus alike carried out this practice, considered to be a huge sacrifice, particularly for Indian women who cherish beautiful, long hair. For some, hair is offered in exchange for certain favors received, or thanks given for one’s answering of prayers. Even if one has no money for which to give (or to buy gifts for the religious deity), a devotee can make this ultimate gift. Read more about Why Indians Shave Their Heads

Along the Path to the Tank

2011-09-14T05:30:00.000+05:30

The path between the chapel at “Our Lady’s Pond” (site of the first appearance of Mary) and the main Basilica is filled with sand. Some devotees crawl or walk on their knees all or part of this distance as a way of showing gratitude, showing penance, or making a request. Others walk on foot, chanting, fingering rosary beads, and praying. Along the way, sculptural Stations of the Cross and Stations of the Rosary provided reflecting points. Thankfully, this path is kept quite clean and the middle part less crowded, making it easier to embark on the journey.

Each According to Their Own Faith

2011-09-13T05:11:00.000+05:30

Visitors of all faiths come to the Basilica of Our Lady of Good Health hoping to be cured of medical ailments, resolve fertility issues, and receive blessings. Much as I saw in a Hindu temple in Gujarat, devotees can buy a silver, gold, or tin offering in the shape of the affected body part.. Garlands of flowers to drape over statues of Mary were popular purchases. Some also brought gold chains and saris. Hindus could be seen carrying platters of coconut halves, camphor, bananas, and flowers. In one chapel, they brought in baby coconut trees as an offering for fertility. Of course, money, placed in large locked boxes near the front of the chapels, is always welcomed. As people inch their way up to the altar or while sitting on the crowded floor, ritual actions are made, each according to his/her religion. Even during a Holy Mass, people of various faiths are present; it may not be until the distribution of the Lord’s Supper that one can distinguish the Christians from non-participating others.

They All Go to Velankanni

2011-09-12T05:11:00.000+05:30

I was one of over three million people descending upon the small (5,000 residents) southern Tamil Nadu town of Velankanni during the nine day festival which just ended on Sept. 8. People from all over India and elsewhere travel by train, plane, boat, car, and foot to reach this famed place called the “Lourdes of the East.”

During the nine day festival which culminates on Sept 8 - the day of Mary’s birth and also the date when the sailors were saved from the storm - various forms of worship such as Holy Mass, blessings of the sick, and prayers & meditation occur in the basilica and chapels. Depending on the time of day, visitors can hear services in one of nine languages of India, including English.

Mary is reported to have made several appearances in this area. Around 1560, she first appeared to a Hindu milk boy (whose pot of milk overflowed after giving some go the infant Jesus) , then to a lame boy selling buttermilk (who was healed), and then to save Portuguese sailors from a dreadful cyclonic storm. Chapels were then built on these sites and were subsequently expanded.

Visiting Velankanni during the eight-day festival or other special occasions such as Christmas is not for the faint-hearted. It is chaotic, crowded, intense, color - in other words - so India.

More to come!

Pampering Ganesh

2011-09-11T11:33:00.000+05:30

Finally have some time to write about the photos I've taken in the last week.
India once again is celebrating Ganesh Chaturthi, the birthday of one of the most revered Hindu gods. Now in the last days of the 10 day festival, many Hindu devotees have already worshipped and placed their idol into the nearest body of water.

These photos, taken in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, depict the level of devotion and type of offerings presented to the beloved elephant-headed god. In return, Hindus hope for much prosperity and good fortune for the year ahead.

Previous year's posts recount the making of the clay idols, creation of elaborate floral floats, parade, umbrellas and other items for sale, and many more. Look for additional posts around the beginning of September or end of August.

Outside the Bedding House

2011-09-03T05:11:00.001+05:30

While it's not uncommon to see people snoozing outside in India, this scene made me take a second look. Here we have a man sleeping on some dirty mattresses in front of a door with a bedding house sign above it. I sure hope anything the place sells looks better than those!

Quite a Handful

2011-09-02T05:11:00.001+05:30

Firmly clenching several chickens, this man has just left the poultry selling shop. Are all these mangy-looking chickens destined to land on his home's dinner plates?

Driving Me Bananas

2011-08-30T17:11:00.000+05:30

Tricycle-pulled carts are a common transport for produce sellers and recycling (including the gypsies) folks. Even on busy roads, you will see these vehicles slowly pedaling their way amongst the chaotic traffic. Transporting produce such as these green bananas would be a lot less risky than a cart of eggs.

Pilgrimage to Velankanni

2011-08-28T13:35:00.000+05:30

On my morning walk, I passed by a few men and women, all dressed in light orange-colored clothing. It was a sign that the pilgrimage to the Velankanni shrine in southern Tamil Nadu had begun. During the last part of August and into September, several thousand devotees from the Chennai region make the trek by foot to the church known as Our Lady of Good Health, site where the Virgin Mary and infant Jesus are said to have appeared to a few locals in the 16th century. Likely, most of those making the 350 km walk (217 mi) in about two weeks are Christian. Once at the site though, they will be joined by those of various faiths seeking for miracles, personal requests, and curiosity.

Those making the trek are helped along the way by those who provide water, food, and shelter.

This photo was taken during last year's walk to the smaller Velankanni church in Besant Nagar, Chennai. I was waiting to join some local Christians who were walking there from their apartment in Mylapore. This weekend, I will join them to the church in southern Tamil Nadu.

Arranging the Apples

2011-08-26T21:00:00.000+05:30

Still early on a Sunday morning and after a rain, the vendors on this Triplicane street are just beginning to set up shop. As in most cities in India, selling tends to happen on the sidewalks - or any place people can plunk down some cardboard or basket. In tropical South India, apples are pricey and not (in my MidWestern opinion) all that good. Still, for those who don't know what good apples taste like or those who simply hunger for one, such neatly arranged apples will be hard to pass up.

Old Crowded by New

2011-08-23T20:27:00.000+05:30

This unassuming looking Art Deco tower built in the 1930s seems to be crowded out by the Express Avenue Mall. Considered to be the second largest in South India, the curved entrance of the mall contrasts sharply to the rectangular, stout clock tower.

Happy Birthday, Krishna!

2011-08-22T05:11:00.000+05:30

For Hindu devotees, today is one of great joy and celebration, as it marks the birthday of the beloved god Krishna. These blue figurines hope to be purchased and taken home and used in a puja ceremony, which would include singing of Sanskrit hymns.

Last year, I wrote about the footprints of the child god Krishna that Hindus recreate out of flour and water, leading up to the doorway.

Puja Items by Temple

2011-08-21T19:38:00.000+05:30

Located in the back entrance of the Kapaleeswarar Temple in Mylapore (Chennai), these vendors were eager to sell their wares to Hindu devotees. Items such as flowers, coconut, betel leaves, and ghee lamps would be purchased by Hindus for performing of puja ceremonies - ritual offerings to gods to receive blessings.

One of my color pencil drawings depicts a woman vendor by the temple, largely focusing on stringing flower petals.

Rawanhathha player, Jodhpur

2011-08-21T18:40:00.001+05:30

Rawanhathha player, Jodhpur, originally uploaded by melissaenderle.

Here is the watercolor I finished today.

Bunches of Leaves

2011-08-20T05:14:00.000+05:30

I love the way these leaves are hung as decorative streamers, zigzagging from one side of the street to the other. Perhaps a special celebration has recently occurred here. Mango leaves are often used as part of Indian celebrations and are considered to be symbols of abundance and fertility.

Preparing the Banana Leaves

2011-08-19T05:11:00.000+05:30

Sitting in the shade of his tiny shop, this man was busy cutting banana leaves into smaller sections. For South Indians, this is the traditional plate, onto which large amounts of rice, dhal, idlies, chutneys, and other favorite dishes are served. Traditional Tamil meals are eaten with the right hand while sitting cross-legged on the floor.

Hanging Up the Flag

2011-08-18T05:15:00.002+05:30

Early in the morning on India's Independence Day, this couple works on hanging up the country's flag. Note the double-signage on their shop. This past spring, the state of Tamil Nadu required compliance with the law requiring businesses to include Tamil in their signage. Some simply added a second sign or crammed on the Tamil onto the existing sign.